Coil Packs dying?
#1
2 on right side, 2 on left side.
You should just be able to see the top of the coil pack.
It has 2 wires running to it and a 12mm nut on the top.
Easiest 1 to spot is the 'Front Left'
Hardest 1 to get at it 'Rear Left'
'Front and Rear Right' best got at from below.
[Edited by Scott.T - 3/1/2002 12:11:11 PM]
You should just be able to see the top of the coil pack.
It has 2 wires running to it and a 12mm nut on the top.
Easiest 1 to spot is the 'Front Left'
Hardest 1 to get at it 'Rear Left'
'Front and Rear Right' best got at from below.
[Edited by Scott.T - 3/1/2002 12:11:11 PM]
#2
I was getting a bit of hesitation when I last drove the car (MY96 Turbo)... was in 1st and quite a visious head banging like the relimiter.. and later but not as bad in 2nd and 3rd...
Believe it could well be the Coil Packs?
Anyone know if I can test them without paying out for a new set and then finding it not to be them.
Car is standard except for an STi backbox off a P1.. fitted a day or two before the problem first noticed.
Air intake temps were low as it was a cold day when this occurred.
If driven without flooring it then it behaves perfectly.
Thanks you
JGM
Believe it could well be the Coil Packs?
Anyone know if I can test them without paying out for a new set and then finding it not to be them.
Car is standard except for an STi backbox off a P1.. fitted a day or two before the problem first noticed.
Air intake temps were low as it was a cold day when this occurred.
If driven without flooring it then it behaves perfectly.
Thanks you
JGM
#3
Hello there m8,
I had this problem on my 96 Turbo. To check if they are duff, adjust your plug gap to 0.6mm. If the problem goes away or gets better at least, it's your coilpacks.
This is not a cure though, it's just a test.
Info Courtesy of Bob Rawle (cheers Bob)
Full set of coilpacks later and the car flies (as you know) Wouldn't boost over a bar with the old ones, 1.4 with the new ones
Cheers
Rich (320bhp)
[Edited by RICH WILD - 2/21/2002 3:16:53 PM]
I had this problem on my 96 Turbo. To check if they are duff, adjust your plug gap to 0.6mm. If the problem goes away or gets better at least, it's your coilpacks.
This is not a cure though, it's just a test.
Info Courtesy of Bob Rawle (cheers Bob)
Full set of coilpacks later and the car flies (as you know) Wouldn't boost over a bar with the old ones, 1.4 with the new ones
Cheers
Rich (320bhp)
[Edited by RICH WILD - 2/21/2002 3:16:53 PM]
#4
How much did you pay for the coil packs Rich and are they easy to fit...
How on earth do I get the plugs out?
I am fairly handy with a spanner but when ever I lift the bonnet I just go "Oh my ......god"
I would assume then that as the backbox is making the turbo spool up quicker and the car accelerates a lot better low down that the boost must be up... so I suppose that would make the problem occur, although it would probably have occurred eventually anyway.
Is there anything else it could be?
Cheers
JGM
How on earth do I get the plugs out?
I am fairly handy with a spanner but when ever I lift the bonnet I just go "Oh my ......god"
I would assume then that as the backbox is making the turbo spool up quicker and the car accelerates a lot better low down that the boost must be up... so I suppose that would make the problem occur, although it would probably have occurred eventually anyway.
Is there anything else it could be?
Cheers
JGM
#6
Where about are you Luke and what year is your car?
Perhaps we could go halves on a set of coil packs and try them in both cars?
I am currently in Derby/Nottingham area.
Cheers
JGM
PS: Anyone tell us what is involved in fitting a set of coil packs?
Perhaps we could go halves on a set of coil packs and try them in both cars?
I am currently in Derby/Nottingham area.
Cheers
JGM
PS: Anyone tell us what is involved in fitting a set of coil packs?
#7
Don't know exactly how to do it myself cause I'm lazy and i paid someone else
Getting the plugs out is easy but a bit time consuming. Have to move your washer bottle and stuff like that to make it easier.
Best off getting a garage to do it. Will take an hour tops from start to finish. (Main thing is to let 'em cool first) boy, do they get warm!
Price was about £200 altogether for 4.
Worth doing anyway on the older cars as the coil packs are poo anyway when a bit old. I went to Iridium plugs too at the same time and the differnce was phenomenal.
Could be that it's not the coilpacks, could be a dodgy plug. Just inspect them when you pull them out. Make sure they are a nice healthy colour and not all coked up.
Suppose that there are plenty of other things it COULD be but I'd start there. Plugs first then coilpacks.
Cheers
Rich
Getting the plugs out is easy but a bit time consuming. Have to move your washer bottle and stuff like that to make it easier.
Best off getting a garage to do it. Will take an hour tops from start to finish. (Main thing is to let 'em cool first) boy, do they get warm!
Price was about £200 altogether for 4.
Worth doing anyway on the older cars as the coil packs are poo anyway when a bit old. I went to Iridium plugs too at the same time and the differnce was phenomenal.
Could be that it's not the coilpacks, could be a dodgy plug. Just inspect them when you pull them out. Make sure they are a nice healthy colour and not all coked up.
Suppose that there are plenty of other things it COULD be but I'd start there. Plugs first then coilpacks.
Cheers
Rich
Trending Topics
#8
Well my plugs were changed about 8000miles ago so hopefully they are okay..
just had another service so could be oil in the turbo pipes..
I shall check the oil lever later...
just had another service so could be oil in the turbo pipes..
I shall check the oil lever later...
#10
i changed my coil packs on my old 93wrx, you have to remove the air box and battery, to get to them, removing the coil packs is easy after that, the very hard bit, is mating the connector for the front right coil pack, it is a totally blind job behind the inter cooler as there was no extra length in the lead, took about 30 mins to mate this one connector, it is a very hit and miss affair, and was only by luck i managed to mate it.. if you need any more details drop me a line
#11
I am still hoping it is my boost solenoid, still haven't got around to cleaning it.. hopefully tonight.
Anyone tried uprated coil packs?
A group buy might definitly be worth it.
Anyone tried uprated coil packs?
A group buy might definitly be worth it.
#12
Read a section in the Chilton Subaru Manual that staes that the resistance between pins should be between 0.63 and 0.83 ohms. With them disconnected from the Plug (i.e bench test).
There is another test which involves connecting to a 12V supply and measuring the current between pin 1 and spark plug contact. This should be xxx milli-amps (will post the actaul figure when I read it again)
Mine measure 1 - 1.1 ohms. Has anyone with new coils measured theirs to confirm this.
There is another test which involves connecting to a 12V supply and measuring the current between pin 1 and spark plug contact. This should be xxx milli-amps (will post the actaul figure when I read it again)
Mine measure 1 - 1.1 ohms. Has anyone with new coils measured theirs to confirm this.
#13
Is there such an item as an uprated coil pack for them ? If so where from and how much ?
I was wondering if my bike coils (dynacoils) would do the job better ? They are 1.1 ohm. Anyone tried different coil packs ?
I was wondering if my bike coils (dynacoils) would do the job better ? They are 1.1 ohm. Anyone tried different coil packs ?
#14
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Sounds interesting.... could this be done???? Anyone alse know if this could be done??
If the leads and contacts dont break then surly the coil can be replaced????
Answers on a postcard!!
Sounds interesting.... could this be done???? Anyone alse know if this could be done??
If the leads and contacts dont break then surly the coil can be replaced????
Answers on a postcard!!
#16
The only upgrade that I am aware of it to use 4-Off Bosch Coil MEC732.
These tho' are not available in the UK and have to be ordered from a Bosch Australia/NZ distributor.
I think they work out to be about £20+ each, plus you then need to buy some lengths of HT lead and screw the coils to the inner wing somewhere.
So it will still cost £100+.......
These tho' are not available in the UK and have to be ordered from a Bosch Australia/NZ distributor.
I think they work out to be about £20+ each, plus you then need to buy some lengths of HT lead and screw the coils to the inner wing somewhere.
So it will still cost £100+.......
#18
Available from Ingram in Australia
http://www.ingram.com.au/PDF/ing21091.pdf
Modification performed origionally by Mark 'Crusty'
Details may be on his site http://communities.msn.com/IMPREZAWRXPhotosite
http://www.ingram.com.au/PDF/ing21091.pdf
Modification performed origionally by Mark 'Crusty'
Details may be on his site http://communities.msn.com/IMPREZAWRXPhotosite
#22
Scott,
Would that be a problem, the car would then run a wasted spark system (ie it would spark but there would be no fuel to ignite).
I’m no expert but don’t our cars fire in pairs………other wise it would run a bit lumpy
I’m sure there would be a good reason why we cant do this, but if there was a way round it, we could all save a fair bit of money.
Cheers
Iain - hoping someone like Bob @ BRD etal can explain
Would that be a problem, the car would then run a wasted spark system (ie it would spark but there would be no fuel to ignite).
I’m no expert but don’t our cars fire in pairs………other wise it would run a bit lumpy
I’m sure there would be a good reason why we cant do this, but if there was a way round it, we could all save a fair bit of money.
Cheers
Iain - hoping someone like Bob @ BRD etal can explain
#24
I presume the later coils are a lot cheaper then?
I was under the impression that they fired in twos.
As they fire against each other to counter react the left to right vibration etc..
I am hoping that my coils are okay as the hessitation has gone.
I was under the impression that they fired in twos.
As they fire against each other to counter react the left to right vibration etc..
I am hoping that my coils are okay as the hessitation has gone.
#26
The vibration or my hessitation?
I took the boost solenoid off and looked at cleaning it but never got around to it once I had bought the brake cleaner.
Dunno if that solved the hessitation or just a concidence.
As to the vibration.... the piston on one side of the engine firing at the same time as the one on the other side of the engine counter react each other.. this is all just assumption though.
With a normal engine the vibrations are up and down so less of a force on the car...
I took the boost solenoid off and looked at cleaning it but never got around to it once I had bought the brake cleaner.
Dunno if that solved the hessitation or just a concidence.
As to the vibration.... the piston on one side of the engine firing at the same time as the one on the other side of the engine counter react each other.. this is all just assumption though.
With a normal engine the vibrations are up and down so less of a force on the car...
#29
Its nice to learn more about the car..
I have done lots of work on previous cars but the Scooby when I opened the bonnet for the first time and I think I said something like "Gezus I hope nothing goes wrong because it would take me ages to find anything in there!"
Now thanks to Scoobynet I have some idea of where to find my bits and bobs...
I have done lots of work on previous cars but the Scooby when I opened the bonnet for the first time and I think I said something like "Gezus I hope nothing goes wrong because it would take me ages to find anything in there!"
Now thanks to Scoobynet I have some idea of where to find my bits and bobs...
#30
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From the amount of replies this post is getting ,it looks like we need "DocBanks" and others to help sort out what is required and how to do it. What do coil packs look like??? Any photos from an early car?? are there any differences between a UK and an Import etc??.