Coil Packs dying?
01 March 2002, 11:19 AM
#31
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The cylinders fire individually, (sequentially). The off beat sound is caused by the length of the exhaust pipes.
JGM, there are a few simple ways of checking the coil packs, swap them around Etc.
If you get stuck, give us a ring and we'll book you in?
Mike.
JGM, there are a few simple ways of checking the coil packs, swap them around Etc.
If you get stuck, give us a ring and we'll book you in?
Mike.
04 March 2002, 08:13 AM
#37
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I sprayed lots of brake cleaner in my boost solenoid and the hesitation hasn't occurred since! so fingers crossed this was the problem with my car. At the moment.. but with 95,000miles and I believe the original coil packs I doubt it will be long.
Anyone able to take a picture and post so to help Luke out?
I have no idea where they are but will have a look under the bonnet later..
Cheers
JGM
Anyone able to take a picture and post so to help Luke out?
I have no idea where they are but will have a look under the bonnet later..
Cheers
JGM
04 March 2002, 08:23 AM
#38
Morning JGM2
Photo's won't really help unless you can use an endoscope.....
The easy one to find is front left (No.1)
Find the canister thing next to the radiator (left hand side, big bean can with a few vaccum hoses attached), work back from there and look down the side of the engine.
You should see a diamond (ish) shape thing slightly recessed on the side of the engine. One end of this will have a 12mm bolt the other 2 wires inside a black plastic sleeve.
Once you have found this one it's pretty obviouse where the other 3 are.....
I use a standard 12mm ring spanner to remove, but one of these flash ratchet ring spanners would make it easier. I also use a combination of 2 spark plug sockets to remove the plugs, but a standard plug socket and a 3inch extension would work.
The Rear Left (No.3) coil pack is best removed after removing the intake expansion box. And No.2 & 4 Front Right and Rear Right are best attacked from under the car.
P.S Need to clean my BCS now, as it's just got noisey and seems to be surging at light throttle.
Photo's won't really help unless you can use an endoscope.....
The easy one to find is front left (No.1)
Find the canister thing next to the radiator (left hand side, big bean can with a few vaccum hoses attached), work back from there and look down the side of the engine.
You should see a diamond (ish) shape thing slightly recessed on the side of the engine. One end of this will have a 12mm bolt the other 2 wires inside a black plastic sleeve.
Once you have found this one it's pretty obviouse where the other 3 are.....
I use a standard 12mm ring spanner to remove, but one of these flash ratchet ring spanners would make it easier. I also use a combination of 2 spark plug sockets to remove the plugs, but a standard plug socket and a 3inch extension would work.
The Rear Left (No.3) coil pack is best removed after removing the intake expansion box. And No.2 & 4 Front Right and Rear Right are best attacked from under the car.
P.S Need to clean my BCS now, as it's just got noisey and seems to be surging at light throttle.
04 March 2002, 11:24 AM
#39
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Scott T
Thanks!! it all made sense at last. they look a pig to remove...
The BCS ??? is this the little device in front of the left strut. Layed on its side with a few air holes?? Or is it next to this with a clear top ??
Thanks!! it all made sense at last. they look a pig to remove...
The BCS ??? is this the little device in front of the left strut. Layed on its side with a few air holes?? Or is it next to this with a clear top ??
04 March 2002, 11:29 AM
#41
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Assuming I cleaned the correct thing it is the one on its side with three wires and a couple of pipes coming out of it..
On pipe goes straight into a T-piece.. the other is taking air from the air filter... I removed the pipe from the air filter and sprayed brake cleaner into the boost solenoid whilst the engine was running...
she spluttered as the cleaner went through...
JGM
On pipe goes straight into a T-piece.. the other is taking air from the air filter... I removed the pipe from the air filter and sprayed brake cleaner into the boost solenoid whilst the engine was running...
she spluttered as the cleaner went through...JGM
04 March 2002, 11:30 AM
#42
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Scott T
Cheers, Cleaned it last week. Both directions. As regards coil packs... Will Bribe Steve Lawson to do them!!!!Would still like to source them cheaper...
Cheers, Cleaned it last week. Both directions. As regards coil packs... Will Bribe Steve Lawson to do them!!!!Would still like to source them cheaper...
04 March 2002, 11:31 AM
#43
Wrong thing JGM, not sure what that thing is (brown Plastic thing), but from what I understand it only operates when starting. It re-routes some of the air which allows better starting.....
Well that's what PE told me anyway.....
You want the brass cylinder under that...
Well that's what PE told me anyway.....
You want the brass cylinder under that...
04 March 2002, 01:36 PM
#45
http://communities.msn.com/IMPREZAWR...to&PhotoID=385
For piccies of MEC723 Bosch coils fitted. Each connects to the Existing wiring and then uses a standard HT lead to connect to the Plug.
[Edited by Scott.T - 3/4/2002 3:43:49 PM]
For piccies of MEC723 Bosch coils fitted. Each connects to the Existing wiring and then uses a standard HT lead to connect to the Plug.
[Edited by Scott.T - 3/4/2002 3:43:49 PM]
05 March 2002, 09:36 AM
#48
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Scott T
The group buy post is in the "Dealer thing Forum" Maybe a Dealer has a few lying around!! Or they fancy a medium size order if the price is right.
Luke
The group buy post is in the "Dealer thing Forum" Maybe a Dealer has a few lying around!! Or they fancy a medium size order if the price is right.
Luke
06 March 2002, 02:37 PM
#50
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The 'little brown thing' is the pressure exchange solenoid. It switches the air route to the MAP sensor between atmosphere and inlet manifold to get a true boost pressure related to ambient pressure. Ie. whether you are up a mountain or in death valley..........
07 March 2002, 11:14 AM
#54
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I have 8 coil packs. 4 on the car and 4 spare. The four on the car measure exactly 1.0 ohms each. 1 of the spares is 1.1 ohms. 3 of them are closer to 5 ohms. What is up with the figure 0.68-0.83 ohms? All my coil packs are fine and work well.
Can anyone confirm the resistance they are getting across theirs. Changed all the plugs and coils at the weekend. Took about 45 minutes. In Raynes Park if anyone wants theirs done for free (you provide the parts).
You can borrow my spares if you want to prove it is your coils or not too. They can float around as pool coils. You cover postage (and maybe a five quid rental fee
).
Can anyone confirm the resistance they are getting across theirs. Changed all the plugs and coils at the weekend. Took about 45 minutes. In Raynes Park if anyone wants theirs done for free (you provide the parts).
You can borrow my spares if you want to prove it is your coils or not too. They can float around as pool coils. You cover postage (and maybe a five quid rental fee
).
07 March 2002, 11:50 AM
#55
Mine measure 1.1 ohm, but if you measure the resistance of the DVM leads i.e connect DVM Red to DVM black you get about 0.4 ohm.
So 0.4 ohm subtracted from 1.1 ohm gives 0.7 ohm which is bang on.
Not sure about the current(mA) test as I have not done it yet.
So 0.4 ohm subtracted from 1.1 ohm gives 0.7 ohm which is bang on.
Not sure about the current(mA) test as I have not done it yet.
07 March 2002, 03:42 PM
#57
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That is a very kind offer, and like Luke says is what Scoobynet is about.
I know Raynes Park... last job was at Thales Avionics for 6months.
my hesitation is back kind of, slightly different and starting seems to take an extra second...
If it gets worse etc.. once Luke has finished I might take you up on that offer too..
Cheers
JGM
I know Raynes Park... last job was at Thales Avionics for 6months.
my hesitation is back kind of, slightly different and starting seems to take an extra second...
If it gets worse etc.. once Luke has finished I might take you up on that offer too..
Cheers
JGM
07 March 2002, 03:55 PM
#58
JGM,
May be worth checking the connections on the Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor. Or even pop them out and give em' a wipe off, as they tend to collect a bit of belt dust and dirt etc...etc...
If the loan coils are measuring 5 ohm I doubt they are going to help diagnose anything. Will probably introduce more problems, hence why they have been replaced.
May be worth checking the connections on the Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor. Or even pop them out and give em' a wipe off, as they tend to collect a bit of belt dust and dirt etc...etc...
If the loan coils are measuring 5 ohm I doubt they are going to help diagnose anything. Will probably introduce more problems, hence why they have been replaced.
07 March 2002, 04:00 PM
#59
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Scott,
I will take out my know 1-1.1ohm coils to be doubley sure. It does not take very long. Re-checked two of the coils today and found faulty connectors. Hence the resistance increase.
Glen
I will take out my know 1-1.1ohm coils to be doubley sure. It does not take very long. Re-checked two of the coils today and found faulty connectors. Hence the resistance increase.
Glen
07 March 2002, 04:00 PM
#60
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You can guess the next question!
Where is the two sensors you mentioned??
Near the belts on the front of the block at a guess then?
Shame Haynes don't do a manual..
Group buy on a workshop manual anyone?
JGM
Where is the two sensors you mentioned??
Near the belts on the front of the block at a guess then?
Shame Haynes don't do a manual..
Group buy on a workshop manual anyone?
JGM