[quote=Simon Baudains;9039830]

Awesome car/picture Makes me want a P1. Given me an idea for some stickers on my fog covers too.

 

wont ure exhaust be loud as **** with it being shorter ive seen a evo with a exhaust out the side of front bumper and it wasnt that loud really even wen on boost howd he manage to keep it so quiet are u keeping ures for track or road or both good job by the way looking super clean

 

Hopefully with selection of the right silencer noise wont be too much of an issue.
The Lateral Car is incredibly quiet considering


Managed to get a bit of a bargain courtesy of Duncan. He sold me a set of Pauter Rods for £150 the reason they were cheap is that one of the four were damaged. So I contacted Pauter in the US and got them to send me a single weight matched rod. Ordered it last week and it turned up today. Superb service and a quick turnaround from Pauter.

I've just had them all weighed and all checked over at the firm I use to do the majority of my engineering work and they are all spot on.

So I have managed to get myself a set of Pauter X beam rods for just under £350. I'm Quite pleased with that They'll go nicely with my new Cosworth pistons

 

oh nice, those rods gave me a rod.

 

Very nice mate!

 

Looking good Daz,

Funny how different manufacturers prefer different section rods and what they claim as the best. I, H and A's etc.

What did they weigh out of interest? My A section Carrellos are 515g a piece.

 

594g with caps and bolts fitted.

I was all set to go for some Cosworth rods but these came up and have been proven Time and Time again. Andy.F has ran these rods for the last 4 years in his race car so The proven strength of these were my main reason for going for them cost was second.

 

Project is amazing Daz, given me so much inspiration to get on with mine!

What paint did you use for your inlet manifold and comp housing, did you have to use primer and laquer? or just paint? Also did you have to do much prepping?

Keep up the good work mate

 

Hi Will,

Paint used is Frost's VHT Wrinkle paint. It's available in red and black. Please be aware that the red was once identical to the subaru factory manifold colour but it's not any more. It's totally different. I've used the black and am very happy with how it's turned out. I just stripped the manifold to bare metal and applied several thin coats of black. It takes several hours to wrinkle so don't expect it to happen straight away.

Daz

 

Small update:

I've started to strip, clean and reassemble the front suspension and brake compnents.

Front Crossmember






The ali wishbones also needed some attention:

Before:


After:

 

Its looking well spangly, Its gonna be a shame to drive it??? If you ever do

 

You're fine one to talk Do you know what's up with yours yet?

I'm waiting on Paul to get my block back to me and then I can start making some proper progress.

 

I know whats wrong with mine and I'll telll you when we next meet

 

I've had some more bits turn up.
I collected the strengthened EJ257 block from Paul last night. It's has inserts round the the bores, it's been drilled for 14mm Head studs, block faces have been skimmed,the cylinders have been bored and honed to suit the new 99.75mm Cosworth Pistons and finally the block has been aquablasted. I'm very hapy with how the block has turned out so thanks to Zen for a stirling job on that.

I've also got some Supertech Valves for when I start work on the heads.

Here's some pictures.

First up the block:


















Got a few more bits to buy before bottom end assembly starts which will be done over Christmas.

 

daz did you strip your block yourself and if so what tools did you use to pull the gudgeon pins out?

what aquablasting also?

 

Hi John,

Yes I did mate I have a custom made tool that does the job perfectly.
I took the handle from the OEM scissor jack, cut off the longest straight bit so I have a long straight bar and then once the outer circlips are removed I use the long bar.
Basically, you line the pin up with the access hole and then put the bar through from the other cylinder's access hole. Line it up with the pin and then tap it out with a rubber mallet. Just make sure it's lined up properly, you wont need to tap it hard, if you do it's not lined up properly.

Aquablasting is the process of cleaning the block with high pressure water that has small grains of blast media in it. The block is like new. It will take lots of flushing to make sure all the media is gone though. I won't be doing that until I'm ready to build it.

 

cheers, may go hack my jack to bits

 

LOL not the jack just the winding handle

 

I had my block aquablasted when Zen built my engine. Great results.

However, I would paint it whilst it is clean, otherwise it will soon go all furry once it gets wet..

Nice list of goodies you have there Daz.

 

Hey up mate, the car seems to be coming along nicely now, cant wait to see it finally finished.

 

You and me both mate

 

I thought I'd make a start on this lot.

Even though the block halves had been aquablasted and a brief clean Paul advised me to give the block halves a proper good clean as there was a good chance of some remnants of the blast media and the engineering work lying around . I'm glad he did. This is just some of what came out of the block halves.




The block will get a thorough final clean tomorrow before assembly starts. Tonight I just measured the ring gaps in the bores prior to fitting them to the pistons and fitted the some of the piston circlips which on Cosworth Pistons is a bitch of a job as the clips are a simple C shape instead of the standard ones which are shaped to allow the use of some long nose pliers to get them in place. Cosworth ones require a tool for fitting them but it's nearly £200 which is a complete and utter rip off considering the use it will get.


Anyway back to the rings:

Measuring the 1st ring gap which turned out to be 0.23mm


2nd Ring gap which was 0.40mm




Also bought these today along with RCM's 12mm High Flow, High Pressure oil pump which gets delivered tomorrow.

Cosworth Sump baffle plate.


All the bearings and everything else needed to complete the short motor build.

 

Lookin good daz, can't wait to see it done

 

Looking good mate!

 

I've made a tool for those pin clips. I would recommend assembling two pistons to rods on one half of the block, then putting those in and attaching to crank so you're only left with two clips to fit. Or I bring you up my tool which holds the clip closed in the end of a very thin walled piece of tube, and you push the clip out with a plunger.

 

Thanks Paul. I had worked out that I was going to do two of the rods and pistons prior to assembly of the block. I was going to do the ones on the half with the oil separator and recesses for the block to block seals. I'm going to go to B&Q of all places to see if I can get anything that will make a suitable tool. If I struggle I may have to take you up on that kind offer next time you're up this way.

 

I have to use the tool over christmas, and then bring up to steven's in new year, or post to you and then you can return it to steven (the new owner of said tool).

 

Your putting your tool about aren't you paul

 

It's getting closer Daz, glad your still finding a little time to play with the car even with a little one to cope with

 

Great work Daz just about to start my rebuild next weekend , keep up the pics so i can take the info and use it on my build, have you plastigauge the bigends and mains yet.as the big ends seem to be fiddly.Also the gapping on the rings what are they suppose to be between.

Regards

Steve