You seriously need your suspension sorted for your new found power now Steve...

I'm very sure that you will indeed get a new PB soon.

 

Nice driving Steven

What are you driving now?

 

Nice one Steve !

 

Same car, different spec, different ball park

 

FWIW my six speed P1 without me in it, no rear seats, spare, or jack, but also with a full tank weighed 1293kg at 30-130 day (No bling but heavy Spec R bits mind )

 

What the newage loses in weight disadvantage over a classic, it more than makes up for in chassis stiffness in my opinion. Batting along decent A roads there wont be much in it, but on B roads, the newage chassis copes with the demands of the road far far better.

Without a cage, the classic shells begin to flex with ease over a period of use at the power levels we are discussing here, a newage will take a lot longer to weaken.

 

Mine weighed in at 1430 fully trimmed with heavier leather seats and spare. A complete car . The car is a totally different animal to the day it was driven at marham

 

There will always be different opinions regarding new age or classic and with modifications involved it becomes more complicated.

I believe that standard new age feels a lot heavier to drive but in the same breath I have driven Steve's (Eureka) heavily modified n/a and I enjoyed the driving aspect very much.

What is best for raw performance?? who knows.

Maybe the Pro series of Time Attack suggests the answer

 

I totally agree with you on this one Steven.

Newage vs Classic debate will go on forever

The Classic weight advantage is winner for a standard power car.It will p1ss all over a Newage with more power.But as Steven has said once you begin to run serious power the chassis is miles behind the Newage without additional support.The test for this is in the drive behind the machine.

But each to their own of course.

 

Skull...when are you next on the strip?

I read with much interest on the report on your car.

As you know there are currently a few of us looking for a 10s car so this all makes it that much more interesting.

As my mate says "A bit of competiton is healthy"

Peter

 

Having built 2 high powered classics, and 2 high powered newage cars with pretty much my own hands, i have said it time and time again, that if i had to make a choice in a morning which keys to pick up and drive to work, it would ALWAYS be the newage keys. Fortunately i dont have that decision to make, i pick up the M3 keys

Maybe the Club class of Time Attack suggests the real world answer

You can not compare the stunning creation of the Gobstopper to that of a real world daily driven high powered car, its not practical to do so IMO. (Before anyone says it, that is not aimed at taking anything away from Matt or Ollie, both of whom i have the greatest respect for, and get on well with)

You will see what i mean about chasis flex of the classic when you launch and the shell twists and causes the screen to crack, getting worse everytime.

Transfer every item of running gear and engine from your P1 to a newage shell, and i will be gobsmacked if you say the P1 is the better drive on real roads.

 

Well I won't argue with you P20 as I respect the fact you have built two of each, so you are in a better position than me to compare.
I can only compare to what I have driven

It would be really interesting if I could swap all the bits from my car to a new age to see the difference!.

It now makes me wonder what a new age would be like if it shared the same mods as my P1, because to be honest the P1 is an awesome machine to drive now that most original parts have been replaced with what many consider to be among the best available.

mmmm

 

It's the core shell of the Newage that is better than the core shell of the classic IMO. I cant quite remember what the % increase in chassis rigidity was when the newage shell came out, but it was significant.

 

Steven, why we are on the subject of chassis rigidity did you carry out an investigation comparing a salon with wagon? 'fudge, just a little thread hijack

 

Please whisper the words "drag racing" or "strip", as they both bring back bad memories of the two runs I have done

I have never intended to strip my car out, and I would be shocked if the P1 would run anywhere near the 10's Pete (in it's current trim).

I reckon realistically if I had launch control to assist the launches & got the gear changes bang on it would run very low 12's maybe high 11's.

RCM have known from the beginning that it will always be my road car and good enough for track days.
I will take it on the strip again because I could not live with my two previous attempts .

HOWEVER, I have been on the case with other plans for another classic. Not saying too much at the moment but I can assure you I will be having fun with you guys on the strip at some point, in something MUCH quicker than my P1.

 

According to wikipedia

The chassis was stiffened so that it had 120% torsional stiffness increase.

Dave

 

So my granny has accepted your offer for her Go ped then?
I shall make sure I get some commission on the sale

 

Also found this on wikipedia

GC chassis comparison to the GD chassis

Pros
Subaru claims that the GD chassis is 148 percent and 82 percent stiffer in torsional and beam rigidity, respectively, than the GC chassis. This stiffness is primarily due to the addition of a steel "ring" which encircles the cabin at the B-pillar. While the stiffness was increased for passenger safety, it has the added benefit of providing more stability for motorsports events.
In terms of safety, the GD chassis scored much higher than the GC chassis and earned a "Good" rating (highest mark) from the IIHS's offset crash test. 4 stars front driver, 5 star front passenger and 4 star side safety ratings from the NHTSA. In a magazine article from the Dec. 2005 Firehouse magazine (a periodical written and made for firefighters), Ron Moore writes how it is well-known that the Impreza chassis has great protection in its B-pillars. This side structure has 8 layers of high-strength, high-tension steel including a round steel bar running through the middle. The author notes how drivers simply walk away from horrific side-impact accidents.
Cons
The GD chassis gains nearly 200 kg (441 lb) in weight over the GC chassis. Most of this weight comes in the form of chassis stiffening as the car was made to meet every country's crash standards. The weight also hampers the cars maneuverability, transitions and turn-in capabilities.[citation needed] The GC Imprezas were notable for being very lightweight despite having AWD. The WRX Type R STI Version VI using the GC chassis, at 1260 kg (2778 lb), was lighter than the competing Mazda RX-7 type RZ (1270 kg (2800 lb)) and Honda NSX type S Zero (1270 kg). In this fashion, the GC chassis has a better advantage.
The author of the forementioned article also notes that the Jaws of Life need to cut the Subaru's B-pillars at certain points in order to cut through the car frame.[4] This information was not widespread before, so there have been many incidences where firefighters could not cut the B-pillars due to their structural integrity. This may become a concern if the driver or passengers need to be cut out of the vehicle quickly.

 

Surely your Motec has launch control...

Anyways i'm still away on holiday and haven't got a clue how my car is getting on...the last i heard was that my headers is away getting ceramic coated.

 

Driving the two, with virtually identical setups, i would say the saloon felt more rigid. I then put a cage in my wagon, and the chasis strength was leaps and bounds above what it was without it.

 

full weld in cage or bolt in?

 

That was bolt in, Saftey Devices, but is was a VERY tight fit, and we spent a lot of time fitting it right. I sold it on, and the new owner has it on a wagon, and he also reported the huge leap in chassis rigidity that it has created.

If i can ever make my mind up what i am doing with the wagon, then it will certainly have a weld in cage installed.

 

sorry for butting in but i bought a subaru imprezza a few months ago, and went 2 insure it and it came up as a 1.8 gl and its on the log book, then i was reading up about subarus on Subaru Impreza WRX - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

and read this . . .
1.8GL" (1993)
Subaru imported six Type RS's, the development car that led to the stripped-out Type RA. For UK car certification reasons they were registered as 1.8GL's despite having big turbos attached to 2 litre engines. Three cars went to Prodrive; three were retained by Subaru UK and were subsequently sold.

well my subaru has the ra roof vent and a few other ra bit, if theres only 6 in the uk surly its worth a bit of money ne1 know anything about these cars ?

thanks

 

I've been thinking of a bolt in for some time, mine is going to be for road use too so don't want to have to wear a lid everytime I go out...mmm, more expense probably!

 

Front half of SD bolt in cage is easy to remove, back half isnt (door off job)

 

Sure I have LC on the Motec but you need to activate it.
Many features are blocked until they are activated at a price.

 

 

A little sneak preview

 

if i get out my type r and into the newage the classic feels a better ride imo thats because it doesnt feel as stiff and for me thats the reason i prefer my classic to my newage.
ditto what steven said ta pro,s are in a league of there own and cannot be comparing our cars to theres in a full on race situation the classic maybe a better car but we arent there were on the road
dynamix newage is also a perfect example of just how good a newage can be

 

Steve, identical suspension setups on the type r and newage?

Cant believe you prefer scuttle shake to no scuttle shake