davey21wagon

i dont rev my turbo 2000 past 6500 really (have a couple of times not many but)

have been told there not to fond of reving the nuts off them
( funny thing is i used to own a v tec )

do sti s not come with forged pistons?

i personally if i was u wouldn t rev it right out, just incase u break something i ve hit the limiter once in the year i ve owed it ( by accident )

burt2000

iTrader: (1)

turbo cars really dont need revving out imo, i always change before 6k even when giving it some....ive been put off getting my car r/r'd lately after some of the stories im hearing...another thing is blowing a fan at it with the bonnet up, how is that affecting airflow tot he ic and things, just a bit dubious of r'roads these days on turbo'd cars

petedotuk

dont take mine past 6500rpm dont see the point, imo the rolling road is designed to show power across the entire rev band, when my was run on the rr the bonnet was down and the air was flowing as should into the top mount. Im not saying that the big fan is anywhere near as good as real on road airflow but I had no overheating probs at all.

imo doing 3-5 runs on a rolling road taking it very close to red line will do no harm, its the constant abuse that some ppl give their cars that does the damage. It seems like u look after ur motor chris as u have said so just maybe the previous owner didnt, I think that is the risk we all take when buying a used performance car, the odds it hasnt been hammered are very slim.

Hope u get ur engine sorted m8

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

They do, but that doesnt mean they are indestructable. If things arent right, they can be damaged just as easily as cast pistons.

Christophert21

thanks guys i posted the following post in the general section but no replys yet so i'll copy and paste it here. any help/info will be greatly appreciated as the engine will be going in first thing i wake up in the morning.

here it is
my 02 wrx engine is knocking real bad. i'm guessing this is some sort of bearing failure. it started off quiet but got noticably louder by the time i got home.

anyway i set about removing the engine from the car. engine is now removed, pretty hassle free.

bought an engine from a 98/99 type r - engine was still in the car and was able to hear it going and the car came with a pretty good service history detailing service history and cambelt change and so on.

switched over my inlet manifold to the new engine, also my turbo (vf35), downpipe, exhaust manifold, crank pulley and top cam pulley and also the 2 sensors that pickup these pulleys.

is there anything else i should switch over to make sure the car is 100%? i'm ready for putting the engine in and just want to make sure.

also what would have been the possible causes of my old engine becoming knackered? is there anything i could be carrrying over that may cos this other engine to do the same?

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

It should be a straightforward swap. Although the STI will have more aggressive cams than the 02 WRX engine, so it might be worth having fuelling checked afterwards. Although it should still be safe enough as long as the ecu hasnt been tampered with too much.

Make sure you use the crank trigger wheel and top left ( left of car ) cam pulley from your 02 car, as the trigger patterns are different than the early cars. Sensors will be ok though.
I assume thats what you mean when you say you swapped the crank pulley though, as opposed to the actual crank pulley ?

As to the last question....aside from what I covered already, although I did mention flywheels. What clutch/flywheel is on the car ? IMO, the extremely light flywheels are a bad idea.

Oh...and 98 would be different from a 99. Yours must be a 99 if the inlet manifold swapped, as 98 cars have different bolt spacing.

gazirishscooby

have u checked the loom connections beside the battery 2 c if they r the same connection??

gazirishscooby

4 davey21wagon, turbo cars r not built 4 high revs, but the sti reaches it peak at a much higher rev than the std turbo. yes sti shud have forged pistons as std, but this is not the problem most of the time. its the no.3 rod b.end bearing!!! i`m in process of doing this with my r. i had a new set of forged pistons put in with mckeever, got it mapped, put the boot in it after 1200mile, not over 145mph, in a car that i`ve had at 160 in secs nearly everytime i`m in it, and sure enough!!! that non musical rattle...

Christophert21

yea stevie i swapped the cog thing behind the pulley, and the pulley (and sensor directly above it that picks it up) on the passenger side of the engine (upper one).

the guy that gave me a hand with the engine said the clutch looks to be the standard one and doesn't seem to have been changed before. and the flywheel is a big heavy one - much much heavier than evo ones i've changed in the past!

Christophert21

as for the electrical connections beside the battery, i assume that by using my intake manifold that these connections will match up.

gazirishscooby

haha, sorry chris missed that!!!!!

Christophert21

would installing an oil cooler help?

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

It certainly wont do any harm.

But unless you are doing a lot of hard driving, I cant see if being a huge benefit either.

2 and 3 are the most common big end failures, then 4...

Oddly, I dont think Ive ever seen no 1 go too badly ( unless its a drive with no oil scenario )


Std flywheels are good....I think its just a case of you being unlucky. No real blame. Just a pity they do so much bloody damage when they do go !!!

Christophert21

got all in this morning and fired it up. sounded really rough but eventually settled.

sort of

engine sounded off a cylinder or somethin (hard to tell on a subaru). the engine was doing a lot of rocking in the engine bay. it was slow to pick up the revs upto about 2000rpm. idled at a fast idle.
engine management light was also on....

any ideas? i changed spark plugs but the same outcome. was thinking timing......but had to go to work and only home now.
anything i can try in the morning?

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure all the coil leads are in the correct places ?

All sensors etc plugged in to the correct places ?

Cam timing is possible. Check, double check, and triple check.

Christophert21

yea i marked the coilpacks as i took them out....but i'll check again to make sure.
as far as i can see all sensors are in place.

i think cam timing is the one. would this cause the engine to rock/shake quite a bit?

gojonnyjo

iTrader: (1)

Gotta agree with stevie, check, check and check again, wire to a sensor fuel injectors wrong, sensor not tightened proper, leads. Best going through each thing from beginning to end, 7 times out of 10 it will be something daft...

Christophert21

i know but just when i look in the engine bay now i just don't know where to start! is alot less complicated out of the bay!

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Was the light on right away, and didnt go out ?

Or was it on, went off when started, and came back on again ?

Things like map sensor vac line not attached will also throw a CEL, knock sensor not plugged in, the stupid tumbler valves on the inlet manifold, lambda senors etc etc

Also, if you can, get a code reader to flash the fault code, as at least that will give you a positive direction to start looking.

Christophert21

i remember plugging in the knock sensor and the lamba sensors....

i'm not sure what sequence the light went on. i reached in through the drivers door and started the car then watched the engine bay .......

would any of the about cause the engine to 'rock side to side' though? really is quite noticable

scubbay

iTrader: (61)

sounds like your off a tooth on the cam timing chris.

Christophert21

ok. didn't get a chance to look at it this morning but maybe get a chance tonight or tomorro morning. thanks guys

gojonnyjo

iTrader: (1)

Got a scan gauge that will read fault codes, if you wanna lend of it give me a shout.

gazirishscooby

i agree with scubbay.. a tooth out in the timing?? i had that problem not long ago

petedotuk

Just thought id let u know johnny that the motor passed mot today no cats, no backhanders, no probs.

Need new brakes though so I am going to take u up on the other of the EBC brakes. Can u get me a price for the same set you just ordered.

Cheers mate

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

Thats because they dont check for cats here.

petedotuk

are u sure? I have heard boys failing here as they dont have them.

gojonnyjo

iTrader: (1)

they will fail for no cat, if your emissions dont pass then they look to see if cats are there, if they pass emissions thay take for granted that they are there, and thats from a a MOT dude, asked a couple of months ago when he was legless

pete u have pm

burt2000

iTrader: (1)

was wondering about that, as my mot is in april and i cant be arsed takin the downpipe off and gettin the standard one in...have to get an emissions test done before hand, cant see it passing though esp if i consider running octane booster when i get it mapped

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

They do check on 2001 onwards cars. Pre 2001, they dont bother, its just a very basic, easy to pass emissions test.

They did the full tests for a few weeks starting back in march 06, along with the diesel smoke test. But we all know how that went. So they ditched it, and the cat test for cars older than 2001.