This project is still alive, just waiting for the postman/spare part fairy to deliver me some goodies for my engine.

Question though! The block that will be built is seemingly quite corroded, how is the best way to rid the corrosion and clean/protect for the future, is it possible to get it anodised/painted etc after all is clean, will it need to be ultrasonicaly cleaned????? or will sandblasting it be ok..................not sure i like this option as its a bit of a dirty way of doing it

 

The way to get it looking better than new is to wet bead blast it. (like sandblasting but done wet with little *****)! Dummy build the cases, unbuilt heads and rocker covers and then mask as many holes as you can off.

If you do get this done, i would recommend a ultra sonic clean afterwards seperately of each crankcase half etc. A tiny bit of blast media left in could be curtains.

I have done many bike crankcases and heads like this and they look superb. I don't bother protecting them in any way but i'm sure you can get a heat resistant lacquer from somewhere like Frost Auto Restoration Techniques - classic car and motorcycle restoration

Look at Daz Davies's project thread in here. he has painted his cases and it looks good.

 

Well, as this photo shows, i big end bearing well and truely gubbed. It had spun and squashed itself, How does this happen? anyone know

I would consider the con rod and cap to be fubar'd as well judging by the photos below





Now the block has been separated, i need to get it away fro cleaning, maybe painting and have the bores matched to the pistons

 

The crank cases are away being machined to accept the new pistons, i am hoping to get them back quite soon so the rebulid can begin in earnest.

I wish to parallel the fuel flow this time round, what bits would i be needing to achieve this, i have a new walbro and a FPR waiting for me at the post office, just need to ge the time off work to go get them!!!

My plan for this mod is to cut the std fuel rails and braise on some suitable fittings and just attach/screw on some braided fuel hose both too and from the FPR, is this basically how it's done? i can't see it being that difficult tbh.
Can i use normal brass fittings from the plumbing world or would i need some specialised fuel fitment fittings?
Over to you please experts

 

Zak at Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products can supply some -6 parallel fuel rails.


They are £80 if you send him your rails or £130 if you don't.

If you go for aeroquip hoses and goodridge fittings it gets expensive.
My fueling system cost about around £600 thats for pump, regulator, rails, hoses and all goodridge fittings. It does not include the cost of the 740 injectors so add £400 to that and your around the £1000 mark.

Here's some pics of mine:





Daz

 

Yours looks good Daz, like your white manifold as well, looks cool does that.

I am keen to do this myself as i have the facilities and the technical ability to do it (braising etc) just need some advice on the fittings, i have a walbro, fuel reg and some 740's in the wings just waiting to be put on.
I think i will have to get myself down to the plumbing yard and look at the brass pipe fittings that they will have, these will be able to be braised on i'm sure?
Just need to source some braided fuel hose i think and fit it all together after that...........................i hope

 

I go this through the post the other day, just need to put the engine back together now!!! sometimes i just hate work

 

Looking good Smiffy, im moving up your way mid july into lumsden. Coming with me is 5 other scoobs so we will have to arrange a meet up and i will be picking your brains for a good local body shop. I will stand corrected on this but i read somewhere that to use a sti9 crank the block halves need to be machined to accept it?

 

Hi Stu,

Back home now after a monumental drive back from tarifa in a bl**dy pantec!
It sound's like we are going to have quite a little collection here when you all arrive! should be good apart from a little trip abroad or 2 to deal with first.
We have already discussed Sti9 crank issues so all is well on that front.
I am on the look out for a good body shop myself, i have been told of one in Dorfmark but as of yet have not seen it for myself, Aston has used it with good results though iirc?
You will have to pop round when you here, i will be getting the crankcases back all rebored on wednesday, i was asked today by the guy who is doing the work if i wanted the 2.5 cases and associated bits that he has sitting on his shelf that are left over from a non paying customer? (i will advise who he is so DO NOT take you car to him, he is not far from the main gates to give you a clue)

Catch ya soon buddy

 

I know just who you are talking about there mate, Aston briefed me up and one of the lads here is going through the courts with them at the moment so say no more! Yea it will be good to get up there and like you say there will be a a few more scoobs in the community. Ive just inherited a phase 1 WRX lump for a rebuild and off to look at a 2.2closed deck short engine next week so stand by if it goes through. Catch up soon.

 

Cool, sounds like a plan is being hatched :-) looking forward to building it already and i still got mine to do yet! lol

 

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Well its back from the menders now and all bores are new for the pistons, just need to spend several hours locked in garage away from all of society to get this built up

I will deffo have to pain it though as the current finish will wind me up if i know i have had the oppotunity to deal with it and i know i havn't bothered! i might try blue i think?

 

I hope you detail the build for us.
If you paint the block you have to detail the heads etc too!

Wont go faster, but I understand what you mean!

 

Yes Graham, i plan to detail the build up for you all, i just hope i get it right!
The heads have already been done though but i may be putting in some P1/Sti5 cams as well so there will be some info for that i think

 

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semi built block cleaned and waiting painting, still needs to dry a bit mind you as it have just finished saturating it with water to remove sand blast residue

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I shall see how things go tommorrow and start the painting if it's clean enough

 

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I guess you can all see that this is the undercoat stage

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And this is it painted blue, it is darker in the flesh than what it looks in the pic so it doesn't look too bad honest.............
Yes i have used a spray can, and it was baked in the sun, It was the only real option as no-one in the locality was very interested in doing a proffesional job! Ze Germans can be rather unhelpfull at times you know! So please don't flame me too bad, it's the best i can do under the circumstances
I have masked all oil galleries off so i'm confident that all is ok there, didn't worry too much about the water ways as its mostly overspray that will get in which i doubt will cause any issues.
I know some of the threads will have paint on them as well, but that is not a worry either as i will be chasing these with a tap to ensure all is well with the threads, some were a bit dodgy looking tbh
The rebuild can now start in earnest as i want this going again, will ask Bob over for a running in map when its together, then run it in, full remap and see how she goes

 

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Gapping the rings!

I was unsure about what the correct gap size was needed for the Arais pistons that i will be fitting, so i rang them in the States to see what they had to say as there was no specific measurement given in the spec sheet that came with the pistons.
I gave the Std reccomended gap size and the technician on the phone was of the opinion that the std sizes was too small!!!
I have been advised to go slightly larger than as suggested by Subaru, .022 thou for the top ring and .018 thou for the bottom one, with approx .060 for the oil ring?
Has anyone got any thoughts on this, i will be ringing (pun intended) around tomorrow the experts who have built several known good engines and gauge their opinions. but what say you gents, all constructive comments welcome

 

Right, all the rings have been gapped. I went for .024 for the top ring and .020 for the bottom ring, oil rings are about .060 and i have been told that they will be fine at that.
I will be starting to put things together later on tonight.

 

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Crank has been built, Sti V9 with Eagle rods, ACL bearings and ARP rod bolts. Bolts were tightn'd up to 75 ftb's and was a two man job, ARP supply a special graphite grease for lube on the threads of the bolts.

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Nice pic of the pistons sitting nice in the bores, you can still see traces of the Silkolene oil that i am using for lube

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Mains fitted and awaiting insertion of the nice new crank and rods, i put these in dry and lubed after as crank was about to be fitted

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Crank cases together at last, we did have a slight drama with one of the pistons though, on putting the crank cases together, the gudgeon pin was pushed in and it pushed the circlip out through the other side! i obviously hadn't put it in properly. The circlip had fell into the other side of the block so we had to separate the cases again and go fishing, found it in the sump in the end! just glad i didnt have to remove rods and crank again to find it!
On our second attempt to mate the casings it went much smoother but still required 3 pairs of hands, cheers Stu and Paul? I have not done this before is this normal or is it a one man job and i have been a mong?
All block bolts fit nice and snug as well finger tight so i can safely assume they went together correctly. They were torqued up to Subaru settings of 47 ftb's (which doesn't seem that tight to me?) and in the correct sequence as per the Subaru bible.
The gasket sealant i used is good stuff so i used sparingly so as not to get it all over the inside of the cases, again it was applied using the template as per the Subaru bible. I should be able to post these pages if wanted?
Next step is to build up the now short block scuse the double chin as well, it's just the way i am standing honest

 

Good goin mate, do you have this bible in pdf if so could you send to tpgardenservices@tiscali.co.uk.
Cheers

 

At least your not blaming my photographic skills Ian LOL, great thread Ian i will follow this whilst on leave and i expect it to be back where it belongs on my return

 

I will give him a copy tonite or download from Chris Palmer's Home Page go to the scooby page.

 

Ok mate, cheers. Had a closer look through the bible today and the pistons go in after the block halves are put together! doh, we will have to try it that way next time mate

 

Bugger it looks like i have somehow cross threaded a head bolt whilst fitting the heads! not sure how it has happened either, we were being carefull and it was winding in to start with no probs then it just started getting tight and fubar'd a bolt!
so now i need a new head bolt and a tap the correct size now! does anyone know the correct size tap to use for the head bolts to save me looking it up

 

Well being as no one knows what size the thread is i shall tell you, you will need an 11 x 1.25 mm tap to re-thread these threads, they are special items not normally found off the shelf, the one i just brought cost £27 and came from here it will still need modifying to lengthen it so that it will fit in the hole!

 

Well, i have managed to sort the damaged thread out, i used the tap to good effect but it is still a bit slack on the first 5-6mm of take up which worries me a bit but it will wind down fully with no probs, i will just have to be gentle at the start.
I got some new head bolts from Harvey, top bloke he is, thank you mate much appreciated so they will be used.
Next step will be to fit the heads, but only after i have chased all threads with my new tool! i'm talking about the tap here perlease, i did all on the left head and they all felt like they benefited from it!
So whats left to do:

1. Finish engine build
a. Fit heads
b. Fit all ancilliaries, inc Turbo, headers, etc
c. Fit engine to car
2. Sort out parallel fuel mod
3. Fit FMIC (have made a slow start, bumper is off and thats about it really!)
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looks a bit rusty under there! now there is something else that needs sorting out
4. Sort out a CAK of some sort and put filter in the wing
5. Fit P1 shox and springs
6. Retro fit air con as i don't have it, anyone got a switch i can have?

So all in all not much to do.................................need your help here Stu

 

Im back next Tuesday mate, ive had a text saying im going to Canada the next day still trying to confirm If its a hoax then i will have 4 days to play out mate looking good by the way.

 

Right then, things have stagnated a bit but i have now put a bullet up my ar*e and got a few things sorted.

The engine has been put together, albeit with a few small problems such as:

1. I fcuked up one of the head bolt threads when putting the heads on, scratch 1 x head bolt and the requirement to purchase (at no small cost) a tap of the correct size which is 11 x 1.25mm and is non standard.
2. When i first torqued up the head bolts i was reading the wrong scale on the torque wrench. It said Lb in and i took it for Lb Ft which meant that it was vastly under torqued, could have been nasty on run up if i hadn't have realised

Thats about it for stupidity but the lesson to learn here is not to try and do it all in one day! these mistakes were made late in the evening when the kids were safely tucked up in bed etc etc. tired eyes miss important details, well mine did anyway

I have done the parallel fuel mod and it has cost me the sum total of approx £30 not including the FPR i have detailed it below:

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So here we have the FPR mounted at the cetre of the bulk head, idealy placed to view the fuel pressure.

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One of Carl Davey's FPR bypass adaptors. An excellent bit of kit and well worth the peanuts that Carl asks for them. I had to adjust it slightly when i fitted my 20G as the bottom of the turbo fouled the brass angled piece when it was fitted, all it took was a slight tweek to point it downwards and it cleared no problem

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So what i have done is this, i cut the fuel rails near to the injector pots but i left approx 50-60mm for the fuel pipe to be slid onto. I used normal rubber high pressure fuel injector pipe (considered braided but didn't think it was worth the extra layout as you dont see that much of it anyway)
The pipes were put from one side to the other but not tight, there was some slack deliberatly left in so the pipes go from 1-2 and 3-4 cross ways.
The centre of the pipe was then cut and a t piece was fitted and jubilee clipped on as per the photo above, the photo below shows that there are 2 x jubilee clips attaching the pipe to the fuel rail, this is because there is no olive etc to stop the pipe from sliding off! i am hoping that the 2 jubilee clips will hold it tight enough and stop this from happening.

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This one shows how the finished side looks, all i now need to do is to attach another length of pipe to the FPR and one to the fuel filter outlet.
I will be feeding 1+2 first with the return comming back from 3+4, this should see and equal amount of fuel being fed to all injectors at the same time with no delays or reduction in pressure anywhere, the FPR will be set at 3bar with the vacum hose detatched.
I shall put up a few more photos later with more of what i have done.

 

HELP!

I had a slight altercation with the battery when i fitted the + terminal!

it touched the FMIC pipe and arced slightly at the gearbox earth causing the main fuse 80amp to blow, but, i've sorted the main fuse so now all lights come on, dash lights up, heater blower blows and horn works etc but when i fllick the key to turn it over i get nothing.
I have no power to the gauges which come off the radio power feed but that fuse is ok, the fuel pump isn't working and even the bright switch for the clock isn't working.
The alarm seems to be working fine i.e. i can arm/disarm it with the key fob but it seems like it is an immobilser problem or could it be i have burnt out the starter circuit??????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????

 

I am an idiot. It's official.

What i failed to notice was that i missed connecting the wire that goes to the starter soleniod, my mate noticed within 5 mins of looking but i didn't for an entire evening!

It works now, which is nice, just needed to pump up the fuel pressure to get it to run correctly, which it now does.

I'm Happy.