there is a small o-ring where the tube goes into the sump these sometimes get kinked when re fitted and will leak,it could be as simple as that

 

cool, cheers dopple.

i will check that as soon as pace of life dictates and allows the time

 

There are 2 o rings on the dipstick tube, using just one, tends to let it leak i have found.

As for the rad, it does sound like an air lock, have you tried squeezing the pipes?

 

yeah i have squeezed the pipes, i can hear the water sloshing about in the pipes as well when i do this, i've done it when the car is cold and taken the header tank cap off as well when i do it, i dont seem to be able to squeeze any air out though?
Could the rad be fubar'd?

 

Most likely a fubarred thermostat tbh

 

I have a brand new dipstick tube with 2 new 'O' rings FS! I was wondering what I was going to do with it... Oh and I have a clean TB with butterfly for MY99, which I was going to port as per my thread...

F

 

Floyd, you have PM mate

 

I will change thermostat i think, it will rule it out if nothing else

 

Bu&&er, i have a knocking from the engine now!!! It had a nice long fast drive back from an airport last night and was fine, on the way there though it did hit the boost/fuel cutout but was still driving ok after

I have checked the front pulley and it's not that, nice and tight 130ftlbs tight!

If i hold the revs at 2.5k it is a very prominent knock, if i put my ear over the left side of the engine (as your looking in engine bay) it sounds like it could be comming from no3 cylinder BUT, if i put my ear above the right side to the rear, it sounds like it's comming from inside the cam cover.

I can put my hand on the bell housing and not feel any knocking so i'm not thinking that it could be clutch related, car still drives ok, it's just the knock on part throttle

What say you Gents? Is my engine on the way out/gone (i hope not, it's only done about 15k) or have i something else to think about first?

 

Couple of things to look for:

Might be an idea checking the timing belt hasn't missed a tooth on one of the pulleys. I had this once shortly after a rebuild. This was caused by me not replacing a tensioner. Luckily I caught it in time.

The other which may give slight cause for concern is that if its occuring at a point where you are neither accelerating or deccelarating and doing say between 2k rpm and 3k rpm then it could possibly be big end bearing.

I havent read all of your thread but did you replace the oil pump with a modified one?

Not meaning to scare monger just reflecting on my own experience.

Hope that helps

Daz

 

Daz,
Cheers for the reply, no mate i did not replace the oil pump, guessing i should have,
i will be checking the cam belt tensioner today and also taking some oil pressure readings at various points as well so who knows what the day will bring?

 

Well i have been o the dealer today and he had a listen for about 0.3 of a second before he diagnosed a spun bearing! Bugger.

Choices then,

1. New Std Short engine from Subaru
2. New Std Short engine from a Subaru specialist
3. 2.5 conversion
4. Build a stronger "forged parts" based built engine
5. Complete second hand engine from API etc

All costs are about similar tbh from what i can see, but i am undecided on what route to take, option 3,4 and 5 are what i am really considering, with 3 looking to be my favourite so far, but i like the idea of a forged engine as well (i wont be able to afford a forged built 2,5)

Obviously i am going to need other parts for a built engine of any kind, Oil pump, modine, gaskets etc
While a second hand Sti engine is going to be drop in and hope it works ok!

It will have to stay standard as well for the time being now due to the cost of this, i just need to make my mind up what route to take????

 

Ouch!

IIRC there was a thread that discussed price optons for 1-5 and the benefits.

F

 

Mate, are you sure the diagnosis is correct?
Speak to Paul Blamire at Zen... I had my engine making what sounds like a knock going into a tappety rattle as it was revved from tickover

The noise was coming from the turbo-side bank, my oil pressure was normal, no knock link activity and the car seemed to drive as before but sounded awful!!

Fearing the worst I limped the car to a very reputable subaru specialist who, after a thorough listen told me, pretty much what you have heard...rebuild time

I got it home and called Paul to discuss my rebuild options then followed this up with a visit to Zen... it was at this point I described in detail the sound , assisted by a mate who'd also had a listen (sick car left at home).

Paul told me that if it was a bearing, or piston, I would almost certainly see a drop in oil pressure... Most probable cause would more likely be a loose valve spring collet, which could be cured with the engine left in situ.

Towed the car down to him on monday, and on wednesday he phoned to say, that's what it was... HUGE relief and BIG thanks to Paul
He must have used the power of Zen as he didn't even need the car there to make the correct diagnosis

During our day there Paul gave us a lot of his valuable time and vast knowledge on all things Subaru, even treating us to a run in a 2.5 type r
You could do a lot worse than to give Paul a call...Hope this is of some help

 

Cheers for the reply mate, no i'm not sure the diagnosis is correct tbh, i am a competant mechanic and have my doubts for some reason,

1. It's not burning oil,
2. The noise isn't constant, it is as if there is something that is moving about when it shouldn't but not always, sometimes its loud and sometimes not
3. Car drives/starts fine, noise dont seem to be progressive with revs?
4. Oil pressure seems ok but having said that i don't trust my gauge as it seems to read different every journey!
5. I cant accuratly locate the exact place the noise is comming from (I did think it was comming from the RH head)
6. It came back from a fast autobahn run on monday night and was fine, no noises at all!

I will be doing a full timing check today, i may now take cams off and check valve collets, thanks for the pointer
I think i will drop the oil as well, i have a magnetic sump plug fitted so any debris that should arise from a spun bearing will be caught on that i hope?

 

Stop press



it's a bearing as the pic shows, when i dropped the oil i was presented with this on the magnetic sump plug i think the oil pump may have failed? obviously that isn't bearing material, but it is something that shouldn't be there thats for sure

 

well i don't think it was the oil pump tbh as i have just stripped that down and it all looks ok! plunger seemed ok, i guess i will find out when i get it in bits

 

Just a bit more info for you.

When my bottom end failed it would be fine under load i.e accelerating.
The noise was at its worst when niether accelerating or de-accelerating.

As for rebuild choices. You got this far I would have a go at building a forged engine yourself. I did exactly that and I am no mechaninc.

The whole thread is detailed here: https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...ssic-2-0l.html

Hope this is some use as I have been where you are now.

Daz

 

Cheers Daz,

I have read your thread a few times now and always find it very good, i shall be using it for reference in the future.
Your description of a failed bottom end is rather like mine i fear, i have resigned to the fact that it has failed now, will take sump off to confirm this weekend, but i don't hold out much hope!!

 

Engines out, sumps off and bearing for no3 is fubar'd!!! anyone got a short engine they would like to donate to my "keep the car on the road" project!

 

Smiffy remember me i met you last year outside Astons work ive got the STI V1, might be able to source a short engine for you! Its in Essen a german mate of mine has just upgraded to 2.2 he may still have it! Call me on 017665397982.

 

Hi Stu,

Cheers for the call earlier, soz couldn't talk that well, phone went into bad area on way to swimming. I will be interested in anything that comes along mate, i have a van to go and collect from anywhere so that will not be a problem, keep in touch and see ya when ya get to Fally.

Smudger

 

I have been thinking about what i have uncovered with regards to my engine.
During the course of the top end rebuild at the start of this thread and it's now subsequent failure, i can draw only one conclusion,

And that is that when i had a new engine put in by Scoobysport as owned by a certain Pete Croney, they F**ked me over big time! The engine that i am now more familiar with than i should be had previously been put together by a bl**dy blind monkey.
I could go and list a catalogue of things i see as being incorrect about the last (not mine) build but it wont make any difference.
Many will see this as sour grapes or looking for excuses but i can asure you it's not, my reason for submitting this statement is that i am led to believe that the person who built this engine is still offering his services as a Subaru specialist, my point is that after seeing the inside of one of his engine builds i can categorically state that he is not a specialist in anything other than bodging. They had 4 attempts at a builds to get this engine to work properly, and even then it has only lasted 12k miles, not including the cross threaded spark plug fitment that started this thread. (and yes i know it was them cos they were the last to do it, albeit a while ago now)
Just a word of warning to all.

 

Right then, i have decided what to do I have managed to persuede the wife to let the car stay on the grounds that i buy her one of her own! done that now so i can get jiggy with the scoob once again.
I am of the opinion to rebuild using forged bits as i think i will get a much longer lasting engine buy going down this route, and i will be much happier for when i put that TD06-20G on - just don't mention the gearbox!

So what say thee Gents,

1. What pistons are the best/most common, i am thinking Wisco, Mahle or Cosworth?
2. Rods - Pauter, Arrow or Cosworth again?
3. Crank - i am thinking Sti 9?
4. Bearings - ACL or Cosworth?

Along with the following:

RCMS oil pump
ARP head stud kit
New water pump
New thermostat - anyone have an opinion on what one to use - Zerosports etc
Lightned flywheel
FMIC
740's
FPR and Walbro/Bosch
and a complete gasket set again

I shall be detailing the build with pics on this thread now that it has grown arms and legs, so as funds allow there will be more to add.
Fingers crossed all will go well

 

Might be worth you speaking to Mark at Lateral 02084205444 and asking him about is stroker kit for the 2l, which takes it up to 2.15 IIRC.

 

You forgot a modine cooler off your list, wouldn't risk re-using one that's been on an engine with a bearing failure.

 

Got one of those myself....tasty on my 20g

 

Cool, will add one of them as well then, cheers Jim

Anything else while i am shopping?

 

Right then, here goes. Rebuild time, i have decided to rebuild using forged parts, i have brought some NEW Arais Pistons, Eagle rods, ACL bearings (mains, bigend and rear thrust) and cometic head gaskets off another Snetter and i'm waiting for them to arrive in the post.
I will be buying the following over the course of the weekend

Sti V9 Nitrided crank
Lightweight flywheel
ARP head studs
RCMS oil pump
New MAF
Cam Belt
Modine
Thermostat

I will be detailing the thread with pics and technical info, all comments on what i am doing wrong will be welcome but please be constructive.
Justify your opinions if you think i should be doing something another/different way to how you do/done it

 

Hi,

An excellent read this, keep us updated with lots of piccy's to