graham and i were discussing this exact thing and both seem to agree there is a nasty chance of hitting the lock button on the gearstick mid run during changes.

 

True.
Put the switch on a steering wheel, left hand side.
Come to the start line.
Engage 1st
Left hand holds momentary switch on LH spoke on the wheel down, and dccd fully locks.
Leave the line, reach for 2nd.
Now the wheel switch is released and the dccd immediatly goes to pre set dccd position. Car is now in 2nd (etc) but dccd in preset.

I will be doing the whole thing in 2 weeks time now all the transmission is in and done!
Graham

 

Is it going to be 30 feet or something close at every hill? If so what about a clutch switch and timer. That way no manual intevention at all and no risk of pressing steering wheel buttons by mistake during panicky wheel twirling moments at haripins (that last bit might just be me though....).

That's what I use on my sprint Caterham for the launch control (low rev limit so you don't spin all the power away). Sit on the start line and dip the clutch, press the button for launch and it kicks in the low rev limit. Then nothing to do except worry about the start. As soon as you lift the clutch the timer starts and after X secs the normal rev limit is restored.

I use a standard setting for the low rev setting and the timer for the first run then look at the wheel speed logs to decide if that's the right setting for the rest of the day. If front wheels havn't caught the back wheels when the limit changes then the timer gets turned up a bit, if it bogs then the limit gets turned up a bit. Works very well.

Not really sure if this will be useful for you guys because I don't fully appreciate the effect of having the DCCD fully locked too long or too little.

 

Too complicated for my old brain cell.

If you keep the switch close as possible to the wheel hub then the chance of knocking the switch will be minimal, and my switch has a deep bezel around it to shield it well.

The main issue on a start is judging the surface and the best rpm.(imho)
Graham

 

The dccd driving normal roads does very little and is switched to rear bias, green section. On the track, particularly in the wet, this setting tends to encourage 60mph+ excursions backwards towards some immovable objects when exiting corners. (At least it does for me!).

Set about two thirds it is similar to a standard WRX, (well it does to me anyway). Set full forward splits the power 50/50 which with decent diffs makes sure 25% of your noise pedal goes to each wheel. That gets you off the line. Only trouble is that cornering becomes a tad difficult…so in short, get the timer/clutch delay thing wrong and its straight into the scenery at the first corner!

I ran a 415bhp cozzy with a laptop bolted to the floor with 4 different ECU fuel, ignition and boost settings that could be selected depending on the conditions. Too bloody complicated and too much faith in it meant I was slow or it broke.

I think the steering wheel switch has the edge.

Having said all of that, if it works i'll try it.....


John

 

I know it works as I know a reputable guy who has it!

It all adds interest, and thanks for the comments!

Graham

 

I've also looked into this, why not set the diff to fully locked for starting, put the switch in parallel with the handbrake switch. When the handbrake is pulled the DCCD reverts to the open position, once you are off the line flick the switch and back to normal diff. if you need the grip on a slippy corner, dissengage the switch and you are back to fully locked.

Disconnect the horn and use the brass ring as a negative return for the switch. Hence no dangly wires.

 

Not sure if this is too early, as I'm not really in the Xmas spirit at all!

But Happy Christmas and a very healthy, prosperous and safe New Year to you and yours.

Hope this amuses you all!




Graham

 

LOL

QUALITY!

 

Back in the garage with a mission this week: Complete the dccd wires/install.

Today has gone well, but a snag with the relay.

If you know anything about the relay side of automotive, please take a look at this link to a Driveline thread.
Any help appreciated!
https://www.scoobynet.com/drivetrain...ions-help.html

Full project blow by blow account later!

Graham

 

Merry xmas Graham! Thought i'd just pop my head in and see how the tranny's getting on. Seems like missions nearly over! (big sigh?).

Sort of ground to a halt with mine. I'm in 2 minds to build the bottom end myself or send it off with the heads and get Steve (smg) to do the whole lot. As the old man says, the bottom ends the most important bit so might be worth forking out for peace of mind!

As for the rest of it, all i need to do is decide on a cage.(and get a bloody g/box). Bolt in or full monty....Dads a dab hand at the welding so might sway my decision..

The wallets been getting lighter and lighter since i started this and i'm trying to put cap on it before i've spent a good deposit on a house!

Decided that getting it on the track this year will be a bit unrealistic and gives me a bit more time to get it exactly the way i want it. However, i'm back in the uk for good in may so plan on a few outings to see the ra in action!!

 

Hello Doug! The hillclimbers are waking up.

Spent about 6 hours at it today messing about with the dccd.
The story so far:
1
With the V6 wire dia in hand, it became quickly apparent that the V4 is different... Good Start. However, it does show where all the bits go so is invaluable so far.
The dccd ecu came with about 50mm of coloured cable/connectors, also the wheel controller, but the light Xmas tree is from an Auto car. This might be how Subary did it them mind; more later.


2
Rescue came over the Snet about the wires to the relay (which is not a Subaru part), and you can find from the diagram there are several wires that lead to the relay, so I decided to fix it to the ecu metalwork and wire direct.
Saved some messing and elongating some more wires.(tedious)
3
Copying Steven D and David W I put the ecu in the not-used glovebox. It isn't used as with the roll cage fitted mine would not freely open,,,so with a bit of force it opened
Pic shows the ecu in place, needs a bit of a tidy or Wallis will wet himself with laughter!
This is a neat place to install as you can get at everything, and all the wires can pass nicely over into the under dash area.

4
I also decided NOT to put the lights in the dashboard. I simply couldn't get the thing out! I also think it is not worth seeing it for hill climbing, so I've installed it right infront of the Wheel in the trans tunnel cover.
This needed minimum messing, looks neat/concealed enough, but brings a bib-full of wires to the same location so making install easier (maybe).
While I was on a roller, I wired the handbrake connection (do you actually need the handbrake connection except for the numpty warning light?)



5
The two wires to the actual dccd part of the transmission will thread gracefully to the box via a Subaru grommet which is a rubber drain tube for the heater. The grommet is about 200mm from the box connections!
The dccd ground ended up by the handbrake for ease of finding a good big bolt that screws into the body shell. Hope that will fix it.
6
Now then!
The Big Issue; the dccd Xmas tree.
I really am confused how to get this to work with the ecu, but it cannot be too hard (please..) and that will be tomorrows task.
Similarly: The power take-off says fuse #6 Engine fuse, which i presume is the slow-blow fuse in the under bonnet fuse box?


What a pain this all is.

If ANYONE is reading this claptrap and wants to have a modified fast hillclimb/trackday starlet, BUY ONE FULLY DONE.

Make sure it is a Type R, as modern as you can, with a bulit 2.5 and a twisted turbo with a Zen gearbox.
You can get them for a penny.

Silly game.

Graham (maybe).

 

pmsl.

 

Graham, drop me a mail with the diagram you are using, and a number and Ill give you a call if you like?

 

Thanks David. Out of pride I will try to fathom it one more time over today/fri then will call you.
I'm using the dia from J Fealsthead(sp) off 22B, the one you have tweeked for the Dutchman.

The only bits that are tricky are the power to the ecu fron Fuse #6 in the engine bay box and the connections to the lights.
Note the pcb is off an Auto trans car, but has 6 lights. Please see the pics above.

Finally need to sort the diff-lock switch on the steering wheel to simulate the Fully Locked mode for first gear competition starts.

Tricky for a mechanical lad like me!

Thankyou for the help David.

Graham

 

Graham,

Fit a separate "push to make"switch for locking the diff via a latching relay. Then fit a "push to break" switch on the steering wheel to break the latch once your start is underway...

you can then push the switch on the wheel as many times as you like after launch and it wont do a thing....

jon

 

j-k:
Thanks for that but i was hoping to simply use a momentary switch to hold down when already in 1st on the start line so switching the dccd to full lock.
Moving my left hand off it to change to 2nd will allow time for the dccd to fall into a pre-selected mode shown by the 6 lights fighting me above!
On a hillclimb there is little chance of catching the small switch I have close to the wheel hub.

An escape to all this messing would be to fit a simple pot marked in analoge terms 1 to 10 (say) much like a volume control on the ****?
10 = Fully locked....1 = fully Open?

I will NOT be adjusting the dccd position while on-track, so this could be the way?
I think a setting for normal racing/road will be eventually found and left there, with the 'Full-Lock Button' there for the Starts.

That would work wouldn't it?
If only the dccd wheel was so marked it would be all done as I think it is only a simple pot with a high drag actuation for infinite adjustability within it's range.
If only they had simply put indent 'clicks' in it's rotorty movement!

Graham

 

You can also use a resistor.

David

 

This can come from anywhere really.

David

 

Just come back from the Garage.

The Subaru system has a simple wheel pot, infinitely adjustable. The selected position is decided by the number of lights on or off from Fully Locked to fully Open, effectivly giving 6 settings.
The wheel is marked and has a 1/4 turn Zero to Full Scale, switched @ LOCK

The purpose of the lights is to simply indicate clearly WHERE the pot is set in the range.

So:
1.........EDIT: NOT RIGHT SO NO>
I can leave the flippin' lights off the car and simply judge where the wheel is for normal road/race by the line on the wheel. Bit random!

2.........EDIT: THIS IS THE WAY FOREWARD!
As above but add a simple spring wire indexing 'blade' to 'click' into the straight knurl of the wheel's surface, giving a fine indexing indeed, certainly finer than the 15 degrees/light (iyswim) of the system.
I count 18 grooves for 0-FS, so each groove = 5 deg.

I can enlarge each 3rd groove deeper to give a very destinctive click which would represent each light 'on'

I am assuming the pot has a linear effect!
I assume the system can function without the lights connected?

What do you think David?

3
Power-IN...........EDIT: CANNOT SEE HOW TO FIND THE CONNECTIONS!

I need to bring power in to the relay (YR)
The diagram says ' B144Engine Fuse Box (black) '6'

The other is also to the relay, (L) and the diagram states from B159 Cabin Fuse Box (grey) '9'.

Can I take a power feed, fused (? amps?) but I presume off the ignition switch so the power is on the system only when the engine is running?
Looking at the mess behind the dash and the lack of access, I will try to get onto the Subaru locations first.

Lastly, I appreciate all the help!

Graham.

 

There is something else I would add. An "arming switch" for the handbrake wire to the DCCD. Otherwise if you launch your car by popping off the handbrake on the line, you will be launching with an open diff and be posting on here about how the DCCD doesn't work!

Personally I would have put the lights somewhere visible on the dash so you can adjust them on the move without having to look down. And as you say, it's infinitely adjustble, it doesn't have 6 settings, just six lights.

 

Sorted all the above except for the 2 power connections. Need you help guys!

Sorted the switch on the wheel now, and the connections to the dccd wheel.
I think I need a 'telephone' coiled lead to wrap around the steering wheel boss.

Graham.

 

Hear you Paul.
I have connected the dccd ecu to the handbrake switch. Not sure if I should leave the switch connected to the dash warning light at the same time.
The Neetronics unit removes the stock connection and you live with the warning light on when driving.
Given up on the lights array now.

Rob Harriman has a terrible time trying to set/adjust the dccd while hill climbing and spun twice trying it...

I am sure once a reasonable setting has been found by trial and error (!) then it will stay there.
A friend who hillclimbed an Sti RA V3 had exactly the same prob, but when set and left alone was much quicker, nearly catching the EVO even.

Paul: can you tell me how to get the 2 power cables into the car's system correctly? I can hardly just connect to the battery and fit in-line fuses (can I?)

Graham.

 

Right, I'm stuck now.
I need to be told where to get power from for the relay/ecu.
I am assuming that the power needs to be 'on' with the ignition on, ie engine running.
Can i take power from the Aux side of the ign switch and run a fuse in line?
If so, what fuse rating? 10A??

Hope some bright 'spark' can help! (that was a joke....)
Graham

 

It is all done.
At last an untested install of this bloody dccd.

A quick call to David Wallis confirmed that the ign position was the power take-off and with some good leads from him, a trip to Halfords, and £24 later I had almost all the bits to finish the job off.

The 12v comes off the big-wire 4 cable loom off the back of the ignition switch; the alarm installer had also cut into another one of the cables for the same reason.
An in-line 10A blade fuse/15A cable was popped in close to the ecu and connected to the relay with a loop to the other power side of the same.



The steering wheel has been fitted with a momentary switch and connected to the plug of the dccd selector wheel, and can go on when i find a boss!
The pigtail cable was also from Halfords would you believe.



Final action for this frustrating day was to fit the dccd wheel with a means to count the clicks to position it correctly. This is instead of the Xmas tree lights. I now have 19 clicks to set the wheel to so can mess about untill the over steer is controlable on the 12 foot wide hill climb tracks...
It will be a bit like setting-up the suspension damping.
I'm pleased with the way it works and the clicks are surprisingly audible.




I now need to sit down and draw the wire schematic used to do this lot lest I forget.

A big thankyou to all who have helped especially David
Cup of Coffee IOU when I see you in 2007.

Best ideas of the Day?

Buy a Type R in the first place!

Graham

 

Pleased to see you've finally got it all in Graham. I'm one of those (you hate) who cheated and bought a car with it all fitted already.

I'd be interested to see how the diff-lock switch is wired in, have to say i think that's a brilliant idea. I'm off to harvest eBay for a steering wheel to butcher...

 

Will be pleased to tell you Carl.
Sppokky, but was just thinking about you!

If I have time i will reverse the inlet, re paint it and fit insulators to the heads and the header tank.

Did you get that Les Paul for Xmas yet?

Graham.

ps: you got a great car from Martin!

 

that looked like fun, Graham i always prefered launching one light from fully locked, but you probably don't want to hear that

 

Hello Kev:

I've battled most of this for the 'fun', just didn't realise I would have so much of it...
The idea is to launch fully locked, ie simulate wheel in Lock Switch position with the button pressed down.

The real fun is to fathom out the hard way where to set the dccd for dry and wet 'normal' running.
I thought 2 'lights' from open?

ps: My mate's fitted his tweeked Smart engine this weekend. All I know is it's got a Brabus turbo and some extra bits.(mapping to follow)

Will have an easy day tomorrow, interior back in, cat d/p on and the rest of the zorst, then out for lunch in Bridgnorth.

Brisk walk in the afternoon and bore the wife with the next stage! (and seek finance approval)

Graham.

 

Good to see you making progress (slowly) look forward to seeing some of your pre season video clips.

Mark A