Floyd’s ‘economy’ Stage III
21 March 2012, 02:05 PM
#631
Last w/e I attended a trackday at Rockingham. I very nearly didn't turn up to this event due to a near fatal bout of man flu the week before so I was quite unprepared - no video, pictures and very little car prep. In fact, I had to sort the tracking on the Friday when I deduced my toe angle would be 'out' after winding in the camber on all four wheels. I was right and have 4mm of toe out to adjust... I did call Paul at Zen a few weeks ago to see if he could set the car up properley but unfortunately he was chock full of work.
I got there and it was raining but luckily Andy invited me to his garage to change wheels and store my stuff. Top chap. I went out for the sighting laps with Andy in his new Golf track car (50p racing at it's best) and the level of grip was very low, not only for Andy but every other car that was on the sighting lap that we saw. I swapped my R888's for some treaded rain tyres and put some wind in them as they were flat. Simon came over and asked if I wanted to go out first and I reluctantly agreed, knowing how bad it looked out on track.
I tried to get my race logic box working. I'd read the instructions recently so I was convinced I knew what to do. Simon helped and after some 'low sat' warnings, the lap timing apeared to be working. It wasn't of course, it just fooled us into thinking it was working. I later discovered what had gone wrong - the remote gps aeriel must be on the side of the car that faces the sky...
I'd also forgotten to adjust my adjustable coilovers so they were fully soft all day long. Fail.
So, off we go and I'm feeling a bit nervous as I turn into the first hairpin. The car grips and there's no drama. I look at Simon and he's as surprised as I am. The next corner is the same. The other cars are sliding all over the place but I'm enjoying control and an ability to put the power down very early. I push it more and more until I even hear a hint of tyre squeal. By this time I've discovered a whole new level of grip I'd not thought possible. I'm having some real fun now and even nudging 100mph on the banking in the wet and it's not even phased by it.
I come in and the offside tyres are warm but the near side are cool. As the day progresses the track dries and I change to R888's at lunchtime. The rain tyres don't look worn at all - bonus In the dry the extra camber that I've dialled in seems to be offering a useful increase in corner speed and the car seems to be scrubbing less. I had only one close lapping session and that was with the white Caterham with No.23 on it. Fun. I was passing all other cars with ease. A bit too easy if I'm honest. This is not being big headed as I like close lapping and a challenge but there was nothing to touch my car there all day. I did see a blue classic Impreza with 22B.COM in the rear window and he seemed to be going reasonably well in the wet morning session - anyone here?
The downside to the day is that people wanted pax rides but a wheel bearing noise cuts my day short and I don't get to honour all requests Next time!
In conclusion, my suspension changes have significantly increased my grip levels and the rain tyres are very good. It was one of the best attended NL days yet and the etiquette was great for the cars I saw (that I knew).
Upon returning home I investigate the wheel noise and discover a large diagonal crack on my disc. I think this could be the noise, which I could feel through the brake pedal. These discs are Comp brake discs and have lasted only 2 years and probably 15 trackdays. These cost around £300 a pair and are probably the cheapest replacement. PF discs cost £100 more and AP's probablt another £100 more than PF. I've not tried PF discs before - any good reports on these?
Hopefully the wheel bearings are still OK and it's just the disc, which means they have lasted 2 years as well and 15+ trackdays too.
Next mod is full set up with someone who knows what they are doing chassis wise.
I got there and it was raining but luckily Andy invited me to his garage to change wheels and store my stuff. Top chap. I went out for the sighting laps with Andy in his new Golf track car (50p racing at it's best) and the level of grip was very low, not only for Andy but every other car that was on the sighting lap that we saw. I swapped my R888's for some treaded rain tyres and put some wind in them as they were flat. Simon came over and asked if I wanted to go out first and I reluctantly agreed, knowing how bad it looked out on track.
I tried to get my race logic box working. I'd read the instructions recently so I was convinced I knew what to do. Simon helped and after some 'low sat' warnings, the lap timing apeared to be working. It wasn't of course, it just fooled us into thinking it was working. I later discovered what had gone wrong - the remote gps aeriel must be on the side of the car that faces the sky...
I'd also forgotten to adjust my adjustable coilovers so they were fully soft all day long. Fail.
So, off we go and I'm feeling a bit nervous as I turn into the first hairpin. The car grips and there's no drama. I look at Simon and he's as surprised as I am. The next corner is the same. The other cars are sliding all over the place but I'm enjoying control and an ability to put the power down very early. I push it more and more until I even hear a hint of tyre squeal. By this time I've discovered a whole new level of grip I'd not thought possible. I'm having some real fun now and even nudging 100mph on the banking in the wet and it's not even phased by it.
I come in and the offside tyres are warm but the near side are cool. As the day progresses the track dries and I change to R888's at lunchtime. The rain tyres don't look worn at all - bonus In the dry the extra camber that I've dialled in seems to be offering a useful increase in corner speed and the car seems to be scrubbing less. I had only one close lapping session and that was with the white Caterham with No.23 on it. Fun. I was passing all other cars with ease. A bit too easy if I'm honest. This is not being big headed as I like close lapping and a challenge but there was nothing to touch my car there all day. I did see a blue classic Impreza with 22B.COM in the rear window and he seemed to be going reasonably well in the wet morning session - anyone here?
The downside to the day is that people wanted pax rides but a wheel bearing noise cuts my day short and I don't get to honour all requests Next time!
In conclusion, my suspension changes have significantly increased my grip levels and the rain tyres are very good. It was one of the best attended NL days yet and the etiquette was great for the cars I saw (that I knew).
Upon returning home I investigate the wheel noise and discover a large diagonal crack on my disc. I think this could be the noise, which I could feel through the brake pedal. These discs are Comp brake discs and have lasted only 2 years and probably 15 trackdays. These cost around £300 a pair and are probably the cheapest replacement. PF discs cost £100 more and AP's probablt another £100 more than PF. I've not tried PF discs before - any good reports on these?
Hopefully the wheel bearings are still OK and it's just the disc, which means they have lasted 2 years as well and 15+ trackdays too.
Next mod is full set up with someone who knows what they are doing chassis wise.
19 April 2012, 08:35 AM
#633
Thanks. Good fun.
Well it looks like my discs and my bearings have gone bad
The disc has moved enough to touch the caliper, again. I've ordered a NSK/NTN bearing kit from the 'internet' as Subaru dealer wanted 4 times the price for the same items...
I also noticed that the pattern part bottom ball joint rubber had failed. Oh well, that's what you get for £12, I suppose. I took this as an opprotunity to upgrade to Whiteline roll centre kit and Alyn from AS Performance has personally delivered this to the courier and it's on its way to me now
This kit revises the geometry so that it is consistent through out it's travel and maintains neg camber angle through hard corners. Especially good for lowered cars and helps resist roll, according to the blurb! Thanks to Paul Blamire for the tech chat too! 
Mattybr is also sorting me some spare hubs so I can build these up as spares.
Well it looks like my discs and my bearings have gone bad
The disc has moved enough to touch the caliper, again. I've ordered a NSK/NTN bearing kit from the 'internet' as Subaru dealer wanted 4 times the price for the same items...I also noticed that the pattern part bottom ball joint rubber had failed. Oh well, that's what you get for £12, I suppose. I took this as an opprotunity to upgrade to Whiteline roll centre kit and Alyn from AS Performance has personally delivered this to the courier and it's on its way to me now
This kit revises the geometry so that it is consistent through out it's travel and maintains neg camber angle through hard corners. Especially good for lowered cars and helps resist roll, according to the blurb! Thanks to Paul Blamire for the tech chat too! Mattybr is also sorting me some spare hubs so I can build these up as spares.
Last edited by Floyd; 19 April 2012 at 08:37 AM. Reason: Spelling!
20 April 2012, 01:10 PM
#635
The wheel bearing turned up today. It was supposed to be NTN/NSK but it has Koyo written on it.
This was used to release the trackrod ends:
I've also moved the catch can from the bulkhead below the intercooler to an area near the battery. This is because it needed emptying every trackday and was a PITA to get to. I'm thinking of converting to return to sump. I don't like the idea of this, but some that know, think it's perfectly OK.
And if you even wondered what I look like, here's a blurry picture of me in a car that has some history:
This was used to release the trackrod ends:
I've also moved the catch can from the bulkhead below the intercooler to an area near the battery. This is because it needed emptying every trackday and was a PITA to get to. I'm thinking of converting to return to sump. I don't like the idea of this, but some that know, think it's perfectly OK.
And if you even wondered what I look like, here's a blurry picture of me in a car that has some history:
23 April 2012, 02:33 PM
#639
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You seem to suffer with wheel bearings going?
catch can further forward will help with regard to g forces on the fluid.. however you might find you need a second one on the other side, and run one head to the opposite side etc that way the fluid has to cross over against g force and you should get more vapour than fluid, rather than going to return to sump if you dont like the idea.
Simon
catch can further forward will help with regard to g forces on the fluid.. however you might find you need a second one on the other side, and run one head to the opposite side etc that way the fluid has to cross over against g force and you should get more vapour than fluid, rather than going to return to sump if you dont like the idea.
Simon
23 April 2012, 09:11 PM
#640
I don't think so Simon. The first set of bearings lasted 10 years and perhaps 50 or 60 trackdays including Ring trips. The replacements have gone on one side only after 2 years and approx. 12 trackdays, including the Ring and Spa. This could be that I'm driving the car harder now, braking harder (the discs are cracked) and stressing the bearings more. I may have also made a mistake in the rebuild of the hubs? I repacked them with red line grease and until I inspect the worn bearing I won't know if I put too much or too little in them. I've tried to avoid kerbs but I suspect that extra heat has played a part on the bearing failure.
My set of spare hubs have arrived (thanks Matty) so these will be cleaned up and prepared ready to swap at the first sign of bearing failure. I'm also going to get serious with brake cooling so if anyone has good solutions then I'd like to see them please?
As a last resort there are bearing upgrade options like the ones from 6Gun: http://www.6gunracing.com/products.asp unless anyone has seen better or equal local fixes?
My set of spare hubs have arrived (thanks Matty) so these will be cleaned up and prepared ready to swap at the first sign of bearing failure. I'm also going to get serious with brake cooling so if anyone has good solutions then I'd like to see them please?
As a last resort there are bearing upgrade options like the ones from 6Gun: http://www.6gunracing.com/products.asp unless anyone has seen better or equal local fixes?
24 April 2012, 07:55 AM
#642
Ah, that would make sense. I have bursts of updates...
Discs arrived last night. I couldn't quite stretch to PF discs so I've gone for Compbrake Power Vane (American) discs again. They worked well with no issues apart from this recent crack. AP were just too expensive.
Discs arrived last night. I couldn't quite stretch to PF discs so I've gone for Compbrake Power Vane (American) discs again. They worked well with no issues apart from this recent crack. AP were just too expensive.
25 April 2012, 08:25 PM
#647
Hub is finally off. The bottom ball joint won't shift so I dropped it out of the hub and left it in the arm. I'll sort that later. With the hub off I could test the bearing and it feels gritty and sticks at certain places. FUBAR. I hope it hasn't taken the hub surface with it. I'll dismantle tomorrow with the tensile machine.
26 May 2012, 08:26 PM
#648
Hubs were dismantled and one set of bearings had small flakes of metal on them. Odd. The hubs didn't look too bad but they did have fret marks. Sod it, I stuck the Koyo bearings on and rebuilt them.
The bottom ball joints needed to be removed before replacing with the hubs and roll centre kit. These just would not shift. I think they were pattern parts and rusted into the suspension arms. I resorted to cutting and drilling them, heating them and hitting them. Finally with ball joint seperator wound up to huge force, they popped - with a bang and they flew out with massive speed -shhheeeeeetttttt!!!! Both sides were like this. I made sure the next ones had some copper slip on the surfaces...
As the roll centre kit comes with new tie rod ends it would need some alignment checks. I booked the car in to Wheels In Motion in MK at short notice:
This hunter kit is a few weeks old and Tony the operator, looks like he knows what he's doing.
I wanted -2.5 camber front and -2 camber rear, smidge of toe in on the front and parallel rear toe. Lots of castor!
I ended up with 3 deg of castor. I can get more but I'll see what this feels like.
The drive home was interesting although I've not had a chance to test the limits. The car feels quite different.
I've also set the front a/r bar to hard and I'll stick the rear on hardest as well in an attempt to reduce roll. Watching video of my car on track shows quite a lot of roll, in fact it looks quite boaty.
The bottom ball joints needed to be removed before replacing with the hubs and roll centre kit. These just would not shift. I think they were pattern parts and rusted into the suspension arms. I resorted to cutting and drilling them, heating them and hitting them. Finally with ball joint seperator wound up to huge force, they popped - with a bang and they flew out with massive speed -shhheeeeeetttttt!!!! Both sides were like this. I made sure the next ones had some copper slip on the surfaces...
As the roll centre kit comes with new tie rod ends it would need some alignment checks. I booked the car in to Wheels In Motion in MK at short notice:
This hunter kit is a few weeks old and Tony the operator, looks like he knows what he's doing.
I wanted -2.5 camber front and -2 camber rear, smidge of toe in on the front and parallel rear toe. Lots of castor!
I ended up with 3 deg of castor. I can get more but I'll see what this feels like.
The drive home was interesting although I've not had a chance to test the limits. The car feels quite different.
I've also set the front a/r bar to hard and I'll stick the rear on hardest as well in an attempt to reduce roll. Watching video of my car on track shows quite a lot of roll, in fact it looks quite boaty.
27 May 2012, 07:27 PM
#649
I've finally installed my Racelogic in the centre console:
At some trackdays they don't allow timing or devices suctioned to the windscreen. Subsequently, I've hidden it in the glove box but it's a right PITA getting to, and operating it, especially when you've strapped yourself in.... So, I moved it to the slot where the stereo used to be, with an external aerial on the boot lid. This way I can see and use the timing gadget without faffing around. The switch is to disable it on the road and circuit marshalls are unlikely to see it where it is.
At some trackdays they don't allow timing or devices suctioned to the windscreen. Subsequently, I've hidden it in the glove box but it's a right PITA getting to, and operating it, especially when you've strapped yourself in.... So, I moved it to the slot where the stereo used to be, with an external aerial on the boot lid. This way I can see and use the timing gadget without faffing around. The switch is to disable it on the road and circuit marshalls are unlikely to see it where it is.
Last edited by Floyd; 28 May 2012 at 12:57 PM.
30 May 2012, 09:22 PM
#651
For those that can't be arsed to read the whole thread to get the latest build status....
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, DP catted (with cat removed), TD uprated actuator
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure
laptop batt going more later....
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, DP catted (with cat removed), TD uprated actuator
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure
laptop batt going more later....
31 May 2012, 07:35 AM
#653
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For those that can't be arsed to read the whole thread to get the latest build status....
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, DP catted (with cat removed), TD uprated actuator
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure
laptop batt going more later....
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, DP catted (with cat removed), TD uprated actuator
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure
laptop batt going more later....
31 May 2012, 01:18 PM
#655
I used to have a spreadsheet but it stopped at £8k... That was with carefull buying and selling.
IIRC
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, pick up, DP catted (with cat removed), TD 1.2bar uprated actuator
Sti5 centre section (no cat), Prodrive rear box - 2.5 system.
Snorklectomy
Charcoal canister delete
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV, head lamp washer reroute to intercooler spray.
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete, one way valve delete, inlet manifold insulated spacers
Coolant header insulated spacers - I invented this! Coolant tank heat shield.
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts and custom brackets
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and 1 x crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure, Walbrow 255 intank pump
Clutch fluid reservoir relocate using OS brackets and parts from STi8
Home made brake stopper
PPG uprated synchro gearbox
AST top adjustable coil overs, tein front adjustable top mounts, -2.5deg camber F, - 2deg camber R, 1mm toe in F, 3+caster, 50Nm/40Nm springs F/R, Whiteline fronts and rear adjustable A/R with uprated drop links, Whiteline roll centre kit (rod ends and ball joints), rear camber bolts.
Fog light delete, P1 fog covers, STi5 lip spoiler, crystal side repeaters
Defi, oil pressure, oil temp and boost pressure gauges and control module, lambda monitor (diy) and knocklink built in to the dash as well as a race logic gps data recorder (with boot mounted aerial), stereo delete.
Rear seats delete, rear seat belts delete, DIY fire panel, Safety Devices bolt in half roll cage, 2 x Willans 4 point harness, spare wheel and cover delete, jack and tools delete
Front AP4 pot brakes, Compbrake rotors, AP bells (modified for 177.8 or 190 pcd discs), diy cooling ducts, rear 2 pot STi5 brakes with diy brackets, larger and correct rear discs, 4 x stone shield delete. Pads usually EBC yellows F, PF R. Braided AP lines.
Various wheels with R888's and MPCS as well as full dunlop wets.
Next post, to do list...
IIRC
Standard 2.0
Vf37 Twinscroll, headers, pan, dipstick, pick up, DP catted (with cat removed), TD 1.2bar uprated actuator
Sti5 centre section (no cat), Prodrive rear box - 2.5 system.
Snorklectomy
Charcoal canister delete
Sti8 TMIC, DIY undertray, OE scoop, recirc DV, head lamp washer reroute to intercooler spray.
DIY Ported TB, coolant delete, one way valve delete, inlet manifold insulated spacers
Coolant header insulated spacers - I invented this! Coolant tank heat shield.
STi8 inlet pipe, emission delete, K&N panel filter, modified OE airbox, full heat shield
PS reservoir relocate using STi8 OE parts and custom brackets
Light weight battery
Catch can - 2 x rocker and 1 x crank case breathers
SX fuel reg with reverse flow parallel feed, OE 440's increased pressure, Walbrow 255 intank pump
Clutch fluid reservoir relocate using OS brackets and parts from STi8
Home made brake stopper
PPG uprated synchro gearbox
AST top adjustable coil overs, tein front adjustable top mounts, -2.5deg camber F, - 2deg camber R, 1mm toe in F, 3+caster, 50Nm/40Nm springs F/R, Whiteline fronts and rear adjustable A/R with uprated drop links, Whiteline roll centre kit (rod ends and ball joints), rear camber bolts.
Fog light delete, P1 fog covers, STi5 lip spoiler, crystal side repeaters
Defi, oil pressure, oil temp and boost pressure gauges and control module, lambda monitor (diy) and knocklink built in to the dash as well as a race logic gps data recorder (with boot mounted aerial), stereo delete.
Rear seats delete, rear seat belts delete, DIY fire panel, Safety Devices bolt in half roll cage, 2 x Willans 4 point harness, spare wheel and cover delete, jack and tools delete
Front AP4 pot brakes, Compbrake rotors, AP bells (modified for 177.8 or 190 pcd discs), diy cooling ducts, rear 2 pot STi5 brakes with diy brackets, larger and correct rear discs, 4 x stone shield delete. Pads usually EBC yellows F, PF R. Braided AP lines.
Various wheels with R888's and MPCS as well as full dunlop wets.
Next post, to do list...
Last edited by Floyd; 31 May 2012 at 08:12 PM.
31 May 2012, 10:25 PM
#656
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Floyd, have you ever thought about entering the 22b sprint series?
I think you could do surprisingly well with your car in Class 2, come and join in the not needing big power to compete brigade
I think you could do surprisingly well with your car in Class 2, come and join in the not needing big power to compete brigade
01 June 2012, 10:23 PM
#658
Danny, competition costs money. Lots of money, but a sprint series maybe the cheapest form and do-able for me. I'd not really considered it due to, mainly, me thinking I'm not good enough as a driver. I do also like the idea of the trackday trophy, although even at this level the time and cost is too much for me at this time.
Trails, a Porka is a must do in my life at some point. It won't replace my project cars though. Don't forget the running costs of these Porsches but I'm sure you've considered that already.
Trails, a Porka is a must do in my life at some point. It won't replace my project cars though. Don't forget the running costs of these Porsches but I'm sure you've considered that already.
02 June 2012, 11:00 AM
#659
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Floyd, the MLR series is the same cost as a trackday, granted you don't get as much tracktime as an OPL format but its value lies in the experience you get being in a competitive enviornment.
Don't worry about driving ability, I dare say you have more trackday experience than I did when I first started sprinting. This is my 3rd competitive season and I've probably done 15 - 20 sprints in that time, many of which on coned airfield layouts that would be pretty alien to a trackday guy, but the MLR series is track orientated and if you're handy on track then you'll be competititive IMO
Don't worry about driving ability, I dare say you have more trackday experience than I did when I first started sprinting. This is my 3rd competitive season and I've probably done 15 - 20 sprints in that time, many of which on coned airfield layouts that would be pretty alien to a trackday guy, but the MLR series is track orientated and if you're handy on track then you'll be competititive IMO