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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #271  
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looks hard work Mark.
When my stock install refused to mate together, I found the dust shield on the bottom od the box was hitting the engine every time i tried to get things to come together..not sure if the 6 speeder is the same, but worth the look.

Impressed at your patience over the inlet, I'd be well p!ssed-off.

Hope it all slots together soon.

Graham.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #272  
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I'd orginally planned to use the dust shield but the 6sp flywheel catches it, so for the moment it's off.

I think I might try tomorrow with the engine mounts fixed to chassis cross member and not the engine
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:06 PM
  #273  
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Nobody else has talked about 'probs' doing this; maybe talk to David at API?
Graham
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #274  
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Engine in first (with mounts attached to engine!), 6 speed second...
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:25 PM
  #275  
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Mark, I was using the same Turbo/engine and Inlet as you. Answer was MRT re-inforced inlet pipe (so as not to 'suck' closed as the 'special' from SFS did).

---john---

Perhalps DRB5 could oblige you with a photo of it in it's current home, again same engine/Turbo etc (though MY99 Fanimolds)
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #276  
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Tim, Gearbox is in place already, trying to match the engine up to it.

John the MRT "Type" will a last resort, I'm sure that Ellis will make one from alloy tube for me for a couple of quid, then I'll remove the inlet attach and replace the inlet

Mark
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #277  
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Mark, a suggestion, spend a couple of quid more and get a 'dogleg' made that goes from the Turbo round No3 inlet leg, terminates midway between 3/1 legs under the manifold, join here with a bit of samco, and then get a separate front section made. This way removal/working on turbo does not necessitate the removal of inlet.
I also cut of the alloy bosses on the underside of the manifold to make more space and ground down the heads of the bolts on the water cross pipe.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:44 PM
  #278  
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Mark, having done the engine in on a classic with a six speed several times, and vice versa, i have found the best way is to remove the engine mounts completely, unless you have an assitant who is also extremely competent.

You simply cant jack the box high enough, due to the transmission tunnel, to allow enough angle for the engine to slide onto the box without the mounts catching.

Once you have the engine in, and box bolted flush (doesnt have to be all bolts), raise the engine again on the hoist, and put the mounts on (can be a bit fiddly, but nowt major), and then lower the engine.

Doing it your way is an absolute runt on your own, do able if you and someone else is competent.

Doing it my way, its a piece of p on your own.

Steven
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:54 PM
  #279  
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Cheers Steven, no help tomorrow so off with the engine mounts. Need to raise the car a bit aswell, been arsing about with the suspension and set it so low can't even get the trolley jack under it now.

Yes John but I've painted my inlet in that lovely red crinkle paint

Mark

Last edited by Mark A; Feb 9, 2006 at 10:56 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:04 PM
  #280  
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Obvious ones, but often overlooked.

1 Ensure the clutch plate is central, correctly aligned.

2 Ensure that the tow faces of the box and the engine are parrallel to one another.

It should then just slide on
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 11:34 PM
  #281  
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What's the "tow"

I presume that the clutch fork does not need engaging as with the 5sp
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #282  
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Should be TWO

Clutch doesnt need engaging. Ensure release bearing is on the clutch arm in the box, and engage it after the engine is bolted to it, exactly the same as for a 5 speed.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 11:01 AM
  #283  
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My car had the engine in place when I fitted the 6 speed, I just canted the engine back on it's mountings and had made a cradle that alowed me to tip the gearbox at any angle I wanted...it took my dad and I about 10 minutes to fit the gearbox this way, it was quicker than fitting the 5 speed had been previously!
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #284  
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Well done Tim, sadly, Mark is doing it the other way
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 12:20 PM
  #285  
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I know, but it is really much easier to fit the 'box to the engine than the engine to the 'box
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #286  
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Well spent another day trying to get the two to come together. Must have had the engine out 6 or 7 times. Worryingly it went together when I removed the clutch. Realigned the clutch using two sockets inside each other. Tried again and it still refuses to move the last 1cm.

I will buy a clutch alignment tool tomorrow and try that.

Need a nice cold beer now

Mark
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #287  
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Mark:

I went through the same thing with my AP clutch and 5 speeder.
Last 10mm....

Took it all out, and found the cltch alignment tool was ECCENTRIC!

Turned it all at work on a lathe and the box flew on.

Graham.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:58 PM
  #288  
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Best clutch alignment tool is ????

Chopped input shaft

They have to be spot on aligned otherwise its a so and so. You can pull them up the last 10mm with the bolts if you do it equally.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:58 PM
  #289  
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I'm fairly certain it's not something you'll have lying around, but I use a first motion shaft from a 5sp to alling the clutch, don't get anymore accurate than that

Mark, the boss that needs ground off won't be seen, doesn't need, but helps.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 07:21 PM
  #290  
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I don't have an input shaft so if I pop to Halfords tomorrow will a general one be any good?
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #291  
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Mine was a crap one from Halfords.
I think you will be ok with a Draper one.
Graham
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #292  
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I have a spare one, but its out on loan at the mo.

Machine mart sell generic ones.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:36 PM
  #293  
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
Best clutch alignment tool is ????

Chopped input shaft

They have to be spot on aligned otherwise its a so and so. You can pull them up the last 10mm with the bolts if you do it equally.

Great minds think alike, 'cept yours makes your fingers work quicker !!!!!


---john---
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #294  
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Not sent you a pic of the bumper John, as Wallis reminded me he has first refusal on it, and he has not yet said no to taking the bumper from my dads.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
I have a spare one, but its out on loan at the mo.

Machine mart sell generic ones.
If you become desperate for it, I can have it to you in 20 mins
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #296  
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LOL, no I am ok, i have my other one.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:04 PM
  #297  
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Plan of attack for tomorrow is as follows

08:00am wake-up kiss the wife and kids goodbye, it may be a while till I see them again.
09:00am Arrive at Halfords emporium and recon the clutch alignment tools. Looking for a thin dark suspect with a large rear.
09:30am Arrive at waypoint 2 and await reinforcements (Cpt Baltrop)
10:30am Assemble at rally point, quick cup of coffee before main assault starts
11:00am Main assaults starts with hoist, CAT and swiftly followed by a barrage from a large lump of wood
11:30am Main input shaft subdued and housing secured
12:00am Return home and watch the rugby

Simple, it's all in th planning
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #298  
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Originally Posted by P20SPD


Not sent you a pic of the bumper John, as Wallis reminded me he has first refusal on it, and he has not yet said no to taking the bumper from my dads.

No bother, I have a perfectly functional pre 99 bumper, just prefer the look of the later one. I'll still have it though if it's available

Wallis, I've told you already this week, get the finger out
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:50 PM
  #299  
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Simple, it's all in th planning

Yeah, like the last couple of days..............
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 07:41 AM
  #300  
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You can actually PLAN a job on an Impreza?
They just seem to fit you all the way...
Good luck with the box, and the 'process plan'!

At this rate you might just start the season, just 8 weeks to go.

Graham
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