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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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Take one sick car with no drive and mix together with a 6speed, US STi 2.5 and more parts than I car to name and hopefully serve up 450bhp sprint monster.

Poor quality pictures attached here

Sharing the garage with a 6 litre pick-up & a classic merc
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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Bring it on!

Graham.

all the detail, all the pain, I want to know I'm not alone..
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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More, more!!!
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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Mark, just back onto the track this weekend with the car...good grief...400 bhp is just ...Soooo gooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oood

Traction is so hard to come by..

Graham.
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 08:39 PM
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Thanks Graham, not one to boast are you.

I spent 2 hours loading and unloading all the stuff necessary to sort the car out. Its a 22 mile drive to my friends barn/workshop

Day1

Managed jack the car up high enough to remove the gearbox.
Removed the wheels,bumper and bonnet.
Can't release the the two strut bolts, had them changed recently for camber bolts and despite standing on 18" bar, till stuck fast.
Inlet manifold loose
Turbo loose(massive shock)

First set back is I'm going to have to use my spare set of heads (sti2 or 3s). The ones (sti 6s) I'd planned to use need to be sorted and I don't have a suitable inlet or the time.
Anyway this is a start and I plan to spend most weekends working on the car.

I have an idiots guide to gearbox removal but does anybody have a guide to engine removal

Mark
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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Boasting? Who, me?
Fastest tin top over the weekend!
You have this to look forward to Mark!

Engine-out is very simple, but noting where all the pipes go is hard, and the electrics are easy by comparison.
The installation I found the hardest as the alignment to the box is critical and there is very little room.
I wish I had removed the engine to do all the TD 20g mods to assure access and fit of the mods.

If you intend to race this season you need to get a move-on?

We start in serious racing form in mid April up here.
Good luck, hope you post all the detail.

I'm just so pleased that the effort has resulted in a competitive car, I'm sure the 2.5 will do the same for you

Graham.
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 10:49 PM
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tempted to move onto a 2.5 ltr now, as i was forced to buy a 6 speed and thats one of the biggest costs in my next move, but still not sure if 2.2 isnt the better way
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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Depends what you want, the 2.2-2.3 will rev more, but the 2.5 has a mountain of torque, if I was circuit racing then i'd use a 2.3, but for hillclimbing & sprinting 2.5 works best. My own opinion of course.

Graham if mine puts out 450bhp then the competition will need 6 months head start.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 07:19 AM
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Go get 'em!
Especially if there is an EVO in the class.

Yesterday there was one of the Big EVO's, 600 x 500 2.2 and everything, running on Goodyear list 1A tyres (why?), and was a full 10 seconds slower than you know who in what.

Maybe such a powerful car is too much?

I am sure you are in the right direction for the hills/sprints with the 2.5/6 speeder.

Graham.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 09:55 AM
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Exellent Mark. Thread notification is on.
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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best of luck with it
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:48 PM
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more pictures!!!
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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I think he is getting to grips with getting the gearbox off the engine for the first time!

Yikes!

Graham.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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Unfortunately I will only be doing this at the weekends, due to the fact that the car is 22 miles from my house and I now have to share my wife's mondeo.

I'm hoping that the pixies might have completed some of the work during the week.

Did n't make great progress on sunday, but have ordered 600mm breaker bar to release the strut mounts. Nothing to do with taking the engine out, I need to replace the top camber plates.
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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What do you need a breaker bar for that for?

Remove the suspension strut by undoing the 2 x 19mm bolts at the bottom of the strut and the 3 x 12mm nuts at the top of the strut, remove brake pipe clip from strut and abs lead from strut, and the strut is free.

Use a deep 19mm socket and an impact gun (if you have one) to remove the top nut of the suspension rod, bingo top mount is free (careful the suspension springs dont spring up to hard)

Assume thats what you mean anyway.

whilst you have the struts off, remove the drive shafts from the box by knocking the dowel pin out near the gearbox end, and with the hub now being free, it should just slide off.

Steven
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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Hi Steven

It's the bottom two 19mm bolts (camber) that have been tighted up some gorilla, 5mins with an airgun did jack$hit, apart from make me deaf. Tried a 18" breaker bar but hoping that an extra 6" might work , if not need to find a scalfold pole to fit over the bar.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 09:52 AM
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Managed to find this on e-bay "BRAND NEW AP RACING 6 PADDLE CERRAMETALIC CLUTCH PLATE TO FIT THE BUG EYE STI, PART NUMBER CP4196-4 240mm DIAMETER, RIDGID PLATE"

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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 12:31 PM
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Saw that too, just the trick for those 'hightorque' start line launches
I'm told the 6 pad paddle is quite smooth on the road.

Graham.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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Mark, use an 18" breaker bar on one side and a 2' bar on the other side of the nut and bolt.

I curse when i come across bolts tightened by king kong.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
I curse when i come across bolts tightened by king kong.
same here only most of them have now been done up by me on my car

Must be rust, I didn't do it up too tight, couldn't have.. :doh:
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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R they not suppose to be replaced when undone anyway??

cut them off with an angle grinder and start again..

Talking of replacing suspension is the cutting of the brake flexi hose mount on the strut to remove it and then cable tie it to the new strut the done thing on the scoob to save bleeding the brakes etc?? not done the scoob suspension yet.

Simon
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:19 PM
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simon..you can do

why would he cut camber bolts..

Mark... cheap impact guns are **** the difference between clark, cp & snap-on is HUGE.

David
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by David_Wallis
simon..you can do
Cool

Originally Posted by David_Wallis
why would he cut camber bolts..

Mark... cheap impact guns are **** the difference between clark, cp & snap-on is HUGE.

David
because he cannot get them undone??

As always you get what you pay for..
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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David

Are you saying clarke are much worse than snap-on and best avoided, or refering to the ones you can buy off e-bay for £20-30?
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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excellent Mark, I was wondering what was going to happen with Carl having reached his goal, G has done the same and my next step isnt at all exciting.

youve saved the day
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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Yes!
Keep Projects alive.

I'm almost bored.....
Will start work on the 911 soon, but not realy relavant, then there is the 1964 Lambretta.............

Graham.

Last edited by 911; Mar 16, 2005 at 06:16 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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I used a £15 'impact gun' from Halfrauds and it works a treat on things like stuck bolts.

When it starts smoking and bending itself, its time to take it back for a replacement


Bob
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 08:01 PM
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Lol, i'm considering starting with something new just to give my spare time a purpose...
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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I must admit,
a dax ac cobra kit car, country lanes, the wife and a white silk scarf is always in the back of my mind, but alas about 5 years off
try to build it with a jag 3.6 or a bashed up scooby running gear is the question.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Take one sick car with no drive and mix together with a 6speed, US STi 2.5 and more parts than I care to name and hopefully serve up 450bhp sprint monster.
Go on , name those parts - you know you want to... (Well, you know we want you to )
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