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Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.

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Old Jan 10, 2005 | 11:17 PM
  #151  
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What ? only one engine
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 07:11 AM
  #152  
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Steady!
Take one basic Smart.
Fit a zoomy whatever bike engine to the back, not much room and the gearbox (auto remember) will have it's limits!

BUT, as above, cut the passenger's seat area out and add a real bike engine and box with chain drive to the De Dion rear axle, so keeping the original drive shafts. You can buy the diff units easy.
Put a simple bubble cover over the engine and hang on

Problem is killing the understeer (sound familiar?) but what a game.

Impreza coming together now Andy, will contact you soon for mapping date. Someone has asked to join in a 'Birmingham Mapping' day or two.
Got the TMIC back last night....

Graham.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:31 AM
  #153  
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Graham, as I understood it the Z-Cars engine conversion used the bike gearbox (I would post a link but their site seems to be down)

Oh and a Holeshot turbo conversion costs about 4k plus the donor engine...still 400+brake is a bit a of a laugh as a mate of mine has found in his 460kg Dax
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:39 AM
  #154  
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lol, we're one and the same graham i have a bike powered smart in the pipeline also, Z-cars should be at autosports this week, had a long chat with them last year about it, will take some more pictures if they're there (they have an interesting way of retaining reverse gear with the bike gearbox )
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 12:56 PM
  #155  
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And i thought this was a novel idea!
Had heard of the SmartBike (my marketing hat on here) but the hill climbs have classes to fit in. We played with the idea of a sub 1000cc 'class'.

Real thing is the fun to do it, keep the weight down, and get it to corner.
Oh, and the cost too.
A smart LHD = £3000?
Engine = £250/500
Bespoke engineering = £500 ish
Boy racer bits (suspension etc £800

That is the cost of doing a '2.5' on my Sti!

Just love the idea.
Will make a bee-line for the Z car stand with the camera on saturday.

Graham.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 01:32 PM
  #156  
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you could get a written off one for half that Z-Car fabricate a whole new trelis subframe, including suspension & brakes etc. should be too hard to replicate (might take a tape measure with me, sure they won't mind ) the later smarts have a better front suspension layout aswell, something to bear in mind


they're on stand CP4, ....cause they won't have the smart on the stand after we've been through all this




[back on topic]
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 01:58 PM
  #157  
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Just before you get back on topic, if someone is serious about this, I have a centrifugal supercharged Hayabusa engine for sale, complete with low comp forged pistons, adjustable cam wheels, 8 injectors, ECU, loom, titanium exhaust, ported heads, uprated clutch etc etc (approx 300bhp, zero lag) and also another low compression low mileage busa motor complete suitable for a turbo conversion with HD clutch, head oil drain etc.

Andy
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 04:19 PM
  #158  
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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must resist, must resist..vivo..justy must resist..

David
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 04:36 PM
  #159  
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LOL @ David - Give in, it would be a real laugh and you know it
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 05:49 PM
  #160  
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A 300 bhp Smart
Sheer lunacy. You should ALL be locked up.
My mate (who started all this) has a RHD Smart for his wife. Went for a run on sunday, my first 'SmartRide'. That 3 pot sounds a bit like my 911...
What can you squeeze out of the 700cc motor?
Brabus chip and all that but is there more?
What about an electric 'pre turbo' compressor (don't laugh Flat) other out of the box inprovements (maybe)?

Makes the Scooby a bit boring!

Back on track tonight in the garage. TMIC looks good.

Serious question:
Can I run the car with the 20g etc etc on the stock Sti ecu if I keep the fpr down?
Not to drive on the road, just to move it about in the garage/drive until Andy brings his magic wand to it and fits the Apexi FC.

Jobs left;

fpr fitting
Walbro fitting (I hate petrol)
3 port Solenoid fitting
TMIC final fit/elbow mod to the turbo outlet
Mod to the sports cat D/P and wrap, install.

Get Andy to the car and map.

Graham.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 06:33 PM
  #161  
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Sorry, couldn't resist this !
It is my thread after all...



Promise to concentrate now.
Graham.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 08:43 PM
  #162  
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If you that much free time then may be you could sort my impreza

Mark A
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 09:04 PM
  #163  
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The Sketch took 10 mins, can your car be done that quick?
Graham
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by 911
Serious question:
Can I run the car with the 20g etc etc on the stock Sti ecu if I keep the fpr down?

Graham.
Yes you can, drop the fuel pressure to 2 bar (atmo) I have had customers drive 200+ miles up to me for mapping in this mode. Most of them commented on the excellent economy !!
It is also far more pleasant for me during mapping if all the smell/smoke of heat wrap and turbo coatings has previously burned off !
It is slightly embarrasing when you stop at the lights and the smoke billows up through the bonnet scoop

Andy
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #165  
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Mine does that anyway in winter despite sprayed wrap if it has been sitting in the cold/damp for a few days unused.
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Old Jan 11, 2005 | 11:06 PM
  #166  
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Oh yes, the joy of people pointing at your bonnet and mouthing "have you seen the steam" or "your cars overheating" at every single set of freakin' traffic lights - like I could miss it!
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 12:40 AM
  #167  
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^^^ lol

And you saying "no it's fecking not" to everyone
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Old Jan 12, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #168  
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LOL! When I was last at Andy's getting remapped, a hose became "detached" from the water header tank when we were looking under the bonnet near to a roundabout. This kind lady actually stopped and asked if we wanted to borrow her fire extinguisher
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 10:24 AM
  #169  
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forget the smart, Z cars have gone one better twin turbo'd Hayabusa engined, 4 wheel drive Ultima 900bhp and weights under 1000kgs

i must of spent a good 30 mins drueling over it yesterday not many subarus to look at though
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 11:47 AM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by 911
Sorry, couldn't resist this !
It is my thread after all...



Promise to concentrate now.
Graham.


So this is what your building
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #171  
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You've stolen my car....own-up now or I'll bring a bottle of compressed air and turn it into a real one.
911
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 02:19 PM
  #172  
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No Scoobys?
going tomorrow with my petrol head daughter.
Hope you are wrong.
Lots of die cast model cars, Ferrari caps etc.I suppose.
Did you gat any more pics of your girlfriends while you were there!?

911

Last edited by 911; Jan 14, 2005 at 02:20 PM. Reason: missed a bit
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 03:25 PM
  #173  
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i did..........but they all came out blurred the spearmint rhino girls were very accomadating
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 05:11 PM
  #174  
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You'r a tart Flat!
But I'll check it out tomorrow!

Been in the garage just, some progress and a question for the wizzzzzz kids.
Progress:

TMIC is back from the welder, and looks good..

welds need a little dressing and a coat of silver to protect it all.

The SX fpr is finally after 4 'sitings' in place, just wish the kit had the correct fittings for the gauge; get them tomorrow.


Next came the fitting of the 3 port solenoid, and here is the wizz-kid question:

The pics may not help, but I have had a Blitz boost controller to cure the fuel-cut issue from 3 years ago (with total success) but I'm lost where to connect the '3rd' port off the solenoid to. Is there a Tee to be cut in somewhere?
I think Carl had this issue, but i don't think he had a boost controller.

So, answers please as to what pipe goes where.
Try these pics:




Graham.
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 05:20 PM
  #175  
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How's that for service?

IIRC with the 2-port the compressor outlet and actuator are tee'd together. The 3-port effectively removes this tee.
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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 05:41 PM
  #176  
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Ah ha!
Thanks Carl:

the 'bottom port' from the inlet 'manifold' is plugged-off at the moment since the Blitz was fitted.
Guess if I remove the plug and tube from there to the boost sol port that will be ok. will try it.
Thanks

Graham.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 12:13 AM
  #177  
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You can also leave the bottom port VTA, doesn't make a great deal of difference.

Andrew...
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 07:26 AM
  #178  
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I am still unsure about all these connections, but,is the 3 port actually needed?

The Blitz controller is presumably over riding the stock solenoid?
Thus the stock sol is there only for 'electrical' reasons?

The Apexi FC will be setting via the map the max boost at a given rpm and the boost controller is a slave to that command?

Am I right/wrong/confused?

Graham
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 11:05 AM
  #179  
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Graham, My 'limited' understanding is that 3 port solenoids are easier/better to control through the management than the 2 port type.

I am sure that another more informed person will clarify. We generally go for a 3 port when upgrading and A'pexi/Gems etc are being fitted retro our work.

David APi Engines / APi lmpreza
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 12:12 PM
  #180  
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2 port bleeds air pressure away from the WG actuator, 3 port switches pressure to/away from the solenoid and is therefore much more direct in its control.

Andrew...
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