or you are just sympathetic to it

Andy

 

Dead right I am, I have to get the car home every time, I have two events next weekend, one in the Lake District (Barbon Manor) and on the sunday it is Harewood.
A round trip of about 400 miles.

Can't afford for it to break.

Deffo gearbox next Xmas with slicks.

Graham

 

putting the box back in

 

Thinking of selling the car today!
Naffed off.

Graham.

 

Evophobia?

 

Not a good day then Graham ... no damage i hope?

 

See 'Perfect Chassis...'

 

no recorded measurements.. but from cannot touch inlet to it being cold to the touch..

I think he does do a kit for phase 1.5.. he didn't for phase 1 (including the bolts) so I just wipped them out and bought 10mm longer bolts.

Yes he does insulators for header tank too.

Simon

 

Thanks Simon.
I think Carl is in the middle of the Noth Sea so will have to wait for him.
The inlet yesterday took 2.5 hours to reach air temp with the bonnet open!
Graham.
Perhaps I should spend the money on learning how to drive a 4x4 first.

Graham

 

Graham

out of interest what were your times last year

edit to say yeah I know i just put it in the wrong thread

 

Best run last year, older tyres, TMIC and the simple AST's was 48.08 with a 2.13 start, sunny day, dry track but well into the season.

Oh, and 1.4 bar boost max thus less torque etc.

Graham

 

Long time since this thread was 'in view'!

In 24 hours time I expect to have a Type R box with dccd in my garage.
I will need to get the 'car' loom and the controller and dash later, but i will need your help to give me any hints/tips as to what is needed to get it all to work. There is no rush but i will need to gather the parts together.
Just that I'm not sure what i should be getting.

Also, can I simply pull the fuse on the ABS when the trans/dccd is in?

All advice hints tips etc most welcome.

Graham

 

Glad to hear you've sorted yourself out with a new box Graham. The addition of the dccd should prove to be fun on the hills. Maybe some more tweeking of the suspension will be required after its all up and running.

I've finaly started work on mine. Stripped the front brakes and suspension yesterday and tackling the rear today. Back on the computer for 5 mins as the rear disks dont seem to want to move. Thankfully i've got a very handy pdf wich i think will be used more often than not! (just figured out the hand brake was on. )

Just need to get the front wishbones rebushed and get a few new nuts and bolts then the front will be assembled. New disks and pads needed on the rears but after a rather drunk 1st weekend back i'll need to wait till the end of the month. Was thinking std disks and uprated pads should do fine.....

Once all thats back together then its out with the engine and have the block sent down to Agra (dundee) for machining and assembly. Give's me time to fit the cage/seats and do some odd's and sod's for the engine. Old mans compressor was knackered and cost me £100 for a blinkin repair kit! Means i'll be able to port the headers though. Do you know if the inlet manifolds are quite good as standard or could they do with a tidy up? Also wandering about the 'high flow turbine outlet' that came with the mahoosive APS exhaust. Pretty sure i read somewhere that they can be modded for better flow....As you can guess form that the 20g is staying. I'll need to save for a new gearbox if i go rotated and the cost of those two combined sends a shiver down my spine! 20g will be more than capable of moving the car along within my capabilities anyway...

Only problem i've had so far is on one of the front struts. The two main bolts that hold the hub to the strut wont budge. Ended up taking the complete assembly off whole. Think a good heat with oxy might do the trick. Any ideas?

 

Yeah, start your own thread Doug.


I'm afraid i haven't been keeping totally up to speed with Loakes Phase 3 Masterplan! I take it the idea is to fit the DCCD box allowing you to 'Zen' the current one, then fit the DCCD to it when it eventually gets fitted?

 

Didnt notice i had typed such a big post. oops! Had thought about it but i'm not home often enough to keep it going i think...i'll have a think about it...

Anyone know if rear seatbelts are required for an mot?

 

Don't worry about that, i haven't updated mine for months.

 

[QUOTE=doug2507
Anyone know if rear seatbelts are required for an mot?[/QUOTE]


They are part of the test. Don't suppose they can test 'em if there's no rear seats in it though.

 

I think i'll need my rear seat to run in production class. Which might mean that i'll need the belts in. Graham, could you have a look in the blue book if you get a spare 5 mins mate?

 

Don't suppose this is the correct thread, but as it's covered most things and we're on the subject of seats/belts

How does one go about fixing harness anchorage points for eye bolts? Thought of using the seat bolts for the lap straps but they're a weird thread - 7/16 UNF?

It's a wagon so not many places to fix the shoulder strap (1 to 2).

Any suggestions would be very welcome.

 

Wow, that's woken up a few of you!

The master plan is to have API take a look at the 'new' box to clean and check and fit an Sti 5th to cruise. I am hoping the gearbox charts I have are right and the box is a Type R with DCCD and the helical lsd.

The numbers are right, i hope they ARE right.
Being a V5 box it has the 'stronger' 3rd etc so will go into the car next yearwith the plated rear 160 diff and SLICKS.

I will leave the engine as it is but I'm tempted to drop to an 18G from the 20 to get more mid range. Will talk to Andy first though.

To be honest, the level of competance entering the class now is depressing.
Young (about 50% of my age) Rob Harriman arrived at Prescott in his nice tweeked RS Sti and is only 1.12 secs slower than me.
Bog stock engine with an Apexi, nowt else!
Suspension is AST with advice from a bloke called '911' and the driver/car is fab.
I am not inclined to spend lots of $$$ on ppg etc when a young guy can drive so close to me in a 'weaker' car.
Shows how much is down to the driver!

As to seatbelts.
Where there is a seat it needa a belt.
The places to put the eye bolts are in the transmission tunnel that holds the rear seat runner and the seatbelt bolt that holds the stock belt in the B post.
The shoulder anchors are the rear seat 'lap' positions. Can put pics up if you wish.
The threads are the same world wide! Imperial!!

Graham.

Box number is TY 754 VB 1CA incidentally.

 

Graham

Now you know thats not true, age is all in the mind..[so people keep telling me], but may be its time for your sibling [?] to take the wheel, my daughter keeps telling me my time was the 70s and 80s, she says my grandson could do better, as he is only 18 months, a lot of development work is needed, by the way how are the new brakes,

John

 

Graham, the chart i have (no idea how accurate) says that box has an open front diff. Gimme a second, i'll post the table i have...



You must be very lucky if you found one with the LSD if it says it was optional?

 

Yes please to pics

What do you mean by 'The threads are the same world wide! Imperial!!' ?

Imperial aren't used anymore since the dear old Metrication Board got it's mitts into BSF & BSW.

Gerry

 

The pagid blues are great, so much better than the Green stuff, but they only do them for the fronts, so still have green in the rear....
Carl, you could be right about the front diff as the driveshafts move too freely! But it has the dccd. for sure and the better synchro etc. Something else to play with and get confused by...

As to daughters John, she has passed her Degree in Music and literally just told us that she has said yes to her first full-time job!
For the first time in my life with her I am not the provider...feel a bit redundant.

Gerry:
Will take/post some for you on here...just found some!
What i mean is the imperial thread is adopted for seatbelt world wide.




Carl:
I have the Rallispec and the other 'private' charts and they both say helical dccd lsd in the front, but as you say they were optional.

Graham.

 

Must be a good box Graham, its the same as mine!

p.s...if anyone's thinking of fitting one of those rear lower braces....dont!!!Spent about an hour skinning knuckles, inventing nut 'holders' and cursing loudly as head hits exhaust every 2 mins much to mothers delight. Top tip of the day...remove the lateral links!!! And to top it off, i can't see it doing much good anyway.

 

Do you find 5th too short?
Too 'revvy' on a motorway?
The RA one i had a few years ago was awful on motorways.
Graham

 

Graham, can you mail over (as per profile) the other charts. I'll amalgamate them one rainy day.

 

Erm...if memory serves me right as its been off the road for a while, it sits at around 4000rpm in 5th @80mph. A little more than i would want. 19mph/1000rpm in 5th. Thats with 4.4 diff's though. 3.9 or even 4.1 should be a bit better. 1st 4 gears run a bit closer than the v.3 box i think so might help to keep the 20g on the boil.

 

Put it this way Graham, if i were clocking up the miles on the motorway i would probably change the box to a uk/p1 spec. Fantastic otherwise IMO.

 

Spot-on Doug.Thanks.
Carl i will do but i don't still have them in 'email' format just hard copy. Will check the sites out.
Graham