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Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.

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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 04:04 PM
  #1411  
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you went FMIC to avoid heatsoak so technically you won't have any anyway
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Unless it comes from the rad next to it...then the fan mod would be worth it.
Do you know how to do a manual override mod Kev?

Graham
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 04:28 PM
  #1413  
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i'd wired directly from the fans as that's as far as my electrical knowledge goes
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Is this a fact or not?

Can you 'change' the Impreza's cam timing to induce more torque probably at the expense of bhp?

Graham
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...c;f=8;t=000623

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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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Thank you Carlos, long time no hear!
Interesting thread, one tooth does sound a lot though.

What gains are 'available' though?

Graham
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:05 PM
  #1417  
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Anyone got a roll cage mounted camera mount they want to sell please?
Graham
To go in this:
http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=sq10qu
You can see where it's got to go.
Bloody hell, look at all that negative on the wheels!
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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I know you said brakes weren't really necessary for hill climbing, but with front camber like that do you feel the brakes don't do their job so well?
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 06:10 AM
  #1419  
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All i can say is the car stops well enough with no locking wheels (abs is not the car's strongest point...) and i only brake hard on the hill today 3 times in the run.
Understand what you are saying though!

Graham.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 02:41 PM
  #1420  
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Optical illusion Graham, with the negative camber and the steering angle of the wheel ... else looks like 15 degrees -ve!
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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graham, I only asked you that because ( due to a service problem ) I have the four wheels with a little of negative camber, and I don't know if it's because of that, I feel my brakes don't work so well... maybe the abs??!!
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #1422  
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http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?use...2&ctime=203558

What abs?

http://www.dropshots.com/daymainfram...0030101&cimg=4

Moody shot this morning

Graham
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 07:33 AM
  #1423  
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The engine is not behaving it self correctly. Any thoughts:

Hot or cold it starts well (as ever) and seems to go on 3 cylinders progressivly within a few minutes or less. At 3000 rpm it is most noticeable.

Get to the start line of a hill climb (now about 5/10 mins later) and blast off the start line all is well, certainly 4 cylinders!

Do you think this is a plug fouling?
drives on the road fab, so not the mapping, must be a sinple plug/connection thing?

Could be those new plugs of course so i might put the (perfectly ok) old ones back in this week to see if it changes anything.

Fuel consumption is about 6 mpg on a hill climb!

Graham.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 07:47 AM
  #1424  
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Something simple IMO. Plugs/leads/connection somewhere. When a car has been modded and taken apart/put back together so many times its not hard for something to work loose or not be put back properly.

F
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:09 AM
  #1425  
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Lambda sensor heater ?
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy.F
Lambda sensor heater ?
Graham, you can turn off the closed loop fueling from the commander and see if it cures the problem.

Mappers correct me if I have said anything wrong!

Andy
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 12:49 PM
  #1427  
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AndyF:
I fitted a new Lambda Andy from API but it was a struggle to crimp the fine wires, wonder now if that is the reason?
I kept the old lambda that you said was slow so i will swop that first as the plugs are a pain to do.

Andy97: too scared to touch the map settings!

Oh, should add that the hoses strayed put all weekend and it definitly hit 1.5 bar (if not more).
I still have a gearbox!

Graham

It don't arf go!
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 911
AndyF:
I fitted a new Lambda Andy from API but it was a struggle to crimp the fine wires, wonder now if that is the reason?
I kept the old lambda that you said was slow so i will swop that first as the plugs are a pain to do.

Andy97: too scared to touch the map settings!

Oh, should add that the hoses strayed put all weekend and it definitly hit 1.5 bar (if not more).
I still have a gearbox!

Graham

It don't arf go!

Its a toggle setting in the etc menu, on or off, thats it. Page 36 of the commander instructions(usa).

Did AndyF lock you out of other vital menus like initialise all data
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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Don't think so, but really not sure.
I'll try the Lambda swop first, plugs second ..
Thanks though!
Graham
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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Think I'd try the easy option, turn off the closed loop fuelling in the Hand Commander ( so use the ecus map only, not lambda, if I understand right ) first, simple on/off switch as Andy97 says, and see it that helps. If not, then turn it back onand swap lambda sensors if you want but I'd guess it wouldn/t help?

Otherwise could be any of many things, but seems like an electircal / poor connection sort of problem.

How are the coil packs, has engine been wet recently, are injector plugs tight, any air leaks ( inlet side ) etc.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #1431  
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Did I just read that you crimped Lambda wires?

SOLDER them now!!!!! (even if you mean recrimping the connectors in the plug, its best to solder them in there too)

Last edited by Jay m A; Apr 3, 2006 at 08:03 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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IIRC you need to silver solder the lambda wires, due to their material of construction.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #1433  
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Originally Posted by Jay m A
Did I just read that you crimped Lambda wires?

SOLDER them now!!!!! (even if you mean recrimping the connectors in the plug, its best to solder them in there too)
What's wrong with crimps? Many universal Lambda sensors come with crimp splices to join them to original looms.

Paul
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:15 PM
  #1434  
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IMO even if you use the connector specific crimp tool (rather than a universal one) when recrimping a previously used pin I'd solder just to be sure.

Having reread Grahams post if its a brand new plug being crimped at the pins then fair enough, I originally read it as using an inline crimp to join 2 wires, or reusing pins. In both those cases I'd always solder rather than rely on a mechanical connection when reading mV is concerned.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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I took my old lambda and cut the subaru connector off with the 3 leads about 60mm long.
Took the new lambda and used in-line crimp connectors and the API wire diagram to re connect. You cannot solder the joints as the wire material will not tin.
Could be a duff crimp as the stock wires are very thin.

The car is a v3 so no coil packs on plugs.

Tedious...

Graham

Just found out that the competition in my class is THAT EVO plus another very very fast one, and now a bloody Audi A8 V8 with twin turbo's, slicks and a VERY good driver...why don't they leave me alone...oh, and two new Impreza's ....

I think this will be a character building year.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 10:52 PM
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I know what you're saying about the wires not tinning but it can be done, I've had to do it twice now. I use a scalpel to scrape off the outer coating on the bare wire and use a very hot tip.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 11:05 PM
  #1437  
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Nothing wrong with Crimping Graham, havn't had one fall out yet.


Andy
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 11:20 PM
  #1438  
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A8? isn't that too big and heavy for hill climbing?
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 07:17 AM
  #1439  
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Sorry:

Audi A4 v8 engine twin turbo etc etc = depression in the '911 Racing' stable.

Graham
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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 07:39 AM
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Changed the lambda over last night to the original 1997 one...
Runs on all 4 now.
Still a bit lumpy, but that might be the stiffer engine mounts?

Racing for real, for points and against the EVO weekend after next.

Also checked to see if any of the FMIC hoses had moved at all at 1.5 bar, all all is well.
The hair spray worked!

Graham
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