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Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.

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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #1141  
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Graham, to sort the jack issue... carry a couple of bi'ts of inch timber.... drive or push the car onto them, then use the jack!
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #1142  
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As for the Numberplate you could do what I did. (other than not bother until I got caught)
Made a bracket out of ally









Andy

Last edited by Fuzz; Feb 5, 2006 at 07:31 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #1143  
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Or get Kev (flat4) to make you a sticker one, for the bonnet
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #1144  
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Originally Posted by 911

Graham,

In a previous thread i was assured by Harvey that if the Hybrid core sticks out below the bumper as yours does then it is fitted incorrectly, even tho every one i've seen in the flesh does this....

Tony.
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #1145  
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Hence my suggestion about triming the front edge of the bumper bar as HKS instruct Tony

Graham, to mount my number plate I used some off cuts of HMWPe shaped to the profile of the bumper, screwed to it from the back and then drilled and tapped on the front to take the numberplate screws...if you want some I could knock you up a couple

Andy's method is beefier, and would probably be better suited to your timing strut though
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Old Feb 5, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #1146  
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Andy copied mine!
No, not too much wine, just I have a smaller version of the same thing in my garage this afternoon!
The plan is/was to pop rivit the bracket to the underside of the bumper so the plate just comes up to the 'flat' top surface just in line with the grill.

Andy, that plate looks good there on your car, just seemed a bit out of place on my car ( ) which is why I asked about the stick-on one.

The position of the Hybrid will stay there; if anyone thinks I'm going to strip all that down again for 10mm you are mad!

I think I will go ahead with the bracket, fit the nozzels to it and adapt my time strut to suit it all. The plate comes off anyway when racing.

Thanks as ever to you all,
Graham.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #1147  
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You wont hit it Graham, my intercooler outlet hose is lower than your intercooler and I've never even scuffed it.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #1148  
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Originally Posted by 911
fit the nozzels to it
Nozzels???

Are you going to try and retain the water spray?

If so let me know how you overcome the syphoning issue as the water just drains out of mine now the outlet is lower that the bottle.

Came close to a solution by piercing small holes in a rubber tubing and lacing it accross the front of the i/c. The idea was to have them small enough not to leak but would allow a fine spray out under pressure. In the end it proved more difficult that I thought getting them all the same size.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 07:56 AM
  #1149  
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Why not use a one way valve. May give just enough resistance to stop syphoning?

F
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #1150  
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Graham, I can't quite see from the pics, but, make sure you can get at and work on the FMIC hose clips that are on the intercooler to piping under and behind the bumper.

It is a common mistake to set them up without the bumper on and then find that one has popped off and you can't get at the clips to repair it without taking the bumper off again.......

David APi Impreza / APi Engines
www.apiengines.com
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 09:51 AM
  #1151  
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looks good to me you get one way valves on your windscreen washer hoses
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #1152  
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looks really good graham
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #1153  
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David: Impressivly for me, i even thought about that!
All hose clips are accessible when bolted up. Seen too many blown hoses recently even on very expensive FMIC, but thanks for the thought.

I will add the water spray system i have, and a simple valve will work a treat to stop draining. All washer systems have them, and the headlamp washers on UK turbo's must have them too.
Realised last night i have to pipe-up the DV. Still using the stock DV but it does not line-up with the tube welded into the pipework, yet another bit of samco!

Trying to persuade the wife to have some Big Brakes before the season starts, but the Bathroom comes first..

Graham.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:52 PM
  #1154  
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Originally Posted by Fuzz
You wont hit it Graham, my intercooler outlet hose is lower than your intercooler and I've never even scuffed it.
I scuff my intercooler pipes on kerbs if I park with the front lip over the kerb..
need to remember to reverse into parking spaces.. lol
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:19 PM
  #1155  
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My headers sit lower than the Hybrid, by a lot !!!

Nice looking job Graham
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 05:01 PM
  #1156  
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Graham, any chance you could measure the grill aperture where you've cut it out? I'm no where near my car and I'm trying to source some mesh for my grill
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #1157  
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Tim:

My apperture is 700mm wide by 200mm deep

Sti V3 front bumper (if that makes any difference)

Graham.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 06:42 PM
  #1158  
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Same bumper on my car...thanks for that, I now know roughly how much mesh I'll need to buy
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 10:05 PM
  #1159  
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I'd look at how you can get more air flowing across the bottom 2 or 3 cores, these are the cores that will have the highest charge air flowrate (right in line with inlet pipe) and yet lowest cooling air. This in effect bypasses some 20% of the intercooler and must increase charge temperatures

Andy
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 10:37 PM
  #1160  
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Yes, crossed my mind too as the pipework enters at those points.
Not so easy, but a simple deflector would do I think like a TMIC splitter.
Will be in touch soon to arrange a date for the mapping.
Any midland area dates in late March at all?
Graham.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #1161  
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Not at the moment Graham. Flew over you today if that helps
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 10:55 PM
  #1162  
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Originally Posted by 911
Yes, crossed my mind too as the pipework enters at those points.
Not so easy, but a simple deflector would do I think like a TMIC splitter.
I would suggest cutting the bottom surface of the bumper away, leaving just the top and front of the lower lip in place, and then fitting a flat plate type splitter below the intercooler...IYSWIM
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:00 PM
  #1163  
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That would work ok, also keeps it looking ok from above.
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 11:49 PM
  #1164  
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Graham - is that crap strut brace staying off?
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 12:28 AM
  #1165  
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Graham with sti 8 intercooler being surplus to requirements, would it be for sale at any point in the future?

banny
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 07:44 AM
  #1166  
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Andy: You could have dropped in Will book you to my place and see if i can get some others over for the day. Gerry might be interested.

Tim: Exactly what i was planning as i can get to the bottom with the Gilbows or (getting techie) a jig saw. Trouble is the plastic melts on the saw teeth hence Gilbows are the best.

Dowser: Yes the bullsh!t Sti plastic brace is off and that's how it is staying.(unless i return the car to stock and get a hill climb 911 again)
If the strut towers get a brace in the future it will be by virtue of the weld-in cage that i think is coming over the horizon (a la Fuzz/Wallis)

Banni: The V8 TMIC and the large scoop will go up for sale, there has already been one who asked for it weeks ago. Deal with the wife was that the sale would off-set the FMIC cost.....a bit.


Man came round last night to agree the work for the bathroom, and he starts on monday, I don't have to do anything but wrench the old stuff out; I can do destruction!

If I can't weld it I'm not interested

Hope this is all worth it.

Graham

Last edited by 911; Feb 7, 2006 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:02 AM
  #1167  
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Originally Posted by 911
Tim: Exactly what i was planning as i can get to the bottom with the Gilbows or (getting techie) a jig saw. Trouble is the plastic melts on the saw teeth hence Gilbows are the best.
I used my Gilbows (I bet there are a few reading this who haven't got a clue what we're talking about ) to remove the large majority of the plastic, and then reverted to a Stanley to trim the worst of it. To get a bit more control over the cutting, I don't know if you've tried this, but score the cut line with a the Stanley a couple of times and then attack with the Gilbows
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:54 AM
  #1168  
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Gilbow's slang for a Dremel, right?
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #1169  
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Tim, getting a bit worried about your insistence on using a Stanley knife. You're not trying to handicap the opposition by any chance

Flat 4, you can't get left and right handed dremels

Graham, Acording to Tim, you'll only need a Stanley knife for the bathroom strip out. Is there a way of doing a thumb with blood?
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #1170  
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Originally Posted by flat4
Gilbow's slang for a Dremel, right?
Yes Kev

Gerry, shhhhh
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