Bolt-on 360 bhp x 330lbft: Phase one started.
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From: Over 500ft/lbs of torque @ just 1.1bar
Originally Posted by 911
Bob:
Yes. Lumpy tickover on 3 pots was 'shaking' the body quite a lot.
When i was on all 4 again, took the car round the estate to clear its throat and the engine/gearshift is much improved, the gear lever seems to be stationary in comparison, no shaking about.
Harshness seems unchanged to be honest. Well pleased for £170.
Good mod for those 10 second runs next year
Graham.
Yes. Lumpy tickover on 3 pots was 'shaking' the body quite a lot.
When i was on all 4 again, took the car round the estate to clear its throat and the engine/gearshift is much improved, the gear lever seems to be stationary in comparison, no shaking about.
Harshness seems unchanged to be honest. Well pleased for £170.
Good mod for those 10 second runs next year

Graham.
No 10 sec runs for me next year. Sticking with what I have......give the 2.5s a chance to catch up

Bob
I wish I was out in front of the 2.5's....
I would definitly go for the mounts. If there is going to be any increase in stree then it will be the engine/box combination not the body.
The 911 racers bolt their engine/boxes in SOLID; but only when they have a full multipoint cage welded in 'stratigically placed'.
Graham
ps You'll be in the 10's easy next year. Buy some hill climb Avons.

I would definitly go for the mounts. If there is going to be any increase in stree then it will be the engine/box combination not the body.
The 911 racers bolt their engine/boxes in SOLID; but only when they have a full multipoint cage welded in 'stratigically placed'.
Graham
ps You'll be in the 10's easy next year. Buy some hill climb Avons.
Originally Posted by Peanuts
G,
looking into it, if you use 1.0mm oversized pistons and a 79mm crank on a 2.0cdb you get somewhere like 2.15 iirc, could be just enough to give you a bit more onions on your 20g when your let it off the boil accidentally?
certainly a cheaper option with £350 worth of crank and about a tons worth of machining and it would take some monster boost.
looking into it, if you use 1.0mm oversized pistons and a 79mm crank on a 2.0cdb you get somewhere like 2.15 iirc, could be just enough to give you a bit more onions on your 20g when your let it off the boil accidentally?
certainly a cheaper option with £350 worth of crank and about a tons worth of machining and it would take some monster boost.
You mean goes like a bomb, or genades like a bomb!
Do scooby pstons come in such a large oversize or are we talking specials here?(ie cosworth pistons and rings?
Must admit i like the 'hot rod' approach to the 2.15 engine
CDB = £100 (MarkA has one)
79mm crank = 300 ish
Machine and hone the liners = 250 ish
Pistons/rings = £600?
Bearings etc = 500
Sti V3 donar = free
Hang-on, thats the cost of a 2.5!
Thoughts?
Graham
Do scooby pstons come in such a large oversize or are we talking specials here?(ie cosworth pistons and rings?
Must admit i like the 'hot rod' approach to the 2.15 engine
CDB = £100 (MarkA has one)
79mm crank = 300 ish
Machine and hone the liners = 250 ish
Pistons/rings = £600?
Bearings etc = 500
Sti V3 donar = free
Hang-on, thats the cost of a 2.5!
Thoughts?
Graham
A 'built' 2.15 based on a CDB will be much stronger than a standard EJ257, and although it will take more work to get to 450/400, it would be much happier and less likely to fail (head gaskets and piston wise)...
You have also forgotten the cost of a decent set of Rods, Head Gaskets and ARP studs
You have also forgotten the cost of a decent set of Rods, Head Gaskets and ARP studs
Ok.
Let's write down the shopping list based on a DIY build with pro parts but also with some realism. (no dream engines here)
ie
CDB RA/STi V1/2 short engine
The crank
The pistons
The machining
Sti V3 = free in my case
Bearings/gaskets etc
Roger Clark oil pump
All the peripherals off my V3 (20g etc) = free
Will that give on Optimax a 450 x 400 engine (prefer a 400 x 450 torque)
Costs?
Graham.
Let's write down the shopping list based on a DIY build with pro parts but also with some realism. (no dream engines here)
ie
CDB RA/STi V1/2 short engine
The crank
The pistons
The machining
Sti V3 = free in my case
Bearings/gaskets etc
Roger Clark oil pump
All the peripherals off my V3 (20g etc) = free
Will that give on Optimax a 450 x 400 engine (prefer a 400 x 450 torque)
Costs?
Graham.
Im aiming for:...
early legacy block cdb,
pauter rods,
wiseco pistons,
79mm crank, sti my06??
machining/honing etc
bearings/gaskets etc
RCMS type modified oil pump
spaced (10mm) manifold
740's
18g
methanol/OB mix
if/when I fail to hit 400/400 I can relax in the knowledge that the cars is blisteringly quick on the road and can have a fair stab at some M-sport
Fingers crossed!
early legacy block cdb,
pauter rods,
wiseco pistons,
79mm crank, sti my06??
machining/honing etc
bearings/gaskets etc
RCMS type modified oil pump
spaced (10mm) manifold
740's
18g
methanol/OB mix
if/when I fail to hit 400/400 I can relax in the knowledge that the cars is blisteringly quick on the road and can have a fair stab at some M-sport
Fingers crossed!
Never thought this thread would reach '911' replies...but a good number!
Can a simple 1mm /bore increase over the 2 liter really yeild a 400 x 400?
With my simple Sti V3 probably giving 380 x 340 ish it is a lot of bother to to get the magic 400 x 400.
So what is a realistic budget to do this hot rod engine, and why is the Legacy CDB better as a foundation than the early impreza CDB?
Are piston squirters in there too?
Graham.
Can a simple 1mm /bore increase over the 2 liter really yeild a 400 x 400?
With my simple Sti V3 probably giving 380 x 340 ish it is a lot of bother to to get the magic 400 x 400.
So what is a realistic budget to do this hot rod engine, and why is the Legacy CDB better as a foundation than the early impreza CDB?
Are piston squirters in there too?
Graham.
Graham, there's no difference between a Leggy CDB or one from an Impreza, the only CDB without oil squirters from the factory was the EJ22T block used in the 22b...
WRT the spec stock Sti forged pistons are actually very good, however the rods are very poor in comparison, so up-rated rods first, pistons second!
WRT the spec stock Sti forged pistons are actually very good, however the rods are very poor in comparison, so up-rated rods first, pistons second!
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
I think the cost effective way to 400/400 is a recon 2.5 from Crawford. It has the uprated pistons.
I now have an OE pistoned EJ257 with STI3 heads in mine. I was fortunate to find a low mileage 2nd hand 257 short engine within budget. I expect to run a reliable 400/400 with pretty much the same spec as you Graham!
I now have an OE pistoned EJ257 with STI3 heads in mine. I was fortunate to find a low mileage 2nd hand 257 short engine within budget. I expect to run a reliable 400/400 with pretty much the same spec as you Graham!
!
Take even a new 2.5 with its quirky pistons, fit forged items onto the 2.5's rods (leaves the crank factory fresh still) and you have a good foundation block.
Can you get the StiV3 heads to align to the 2.5 to 'fix' the gasket issues (at 1.5 bar max) and if so, with the 20g etc on the engine, maybe a FMIC too, you should see 400 x 400.
The only downside i see to the 2.5 in practical terms is the road insurance!
A 2.15 or a 2.2 still uses the '2 liter' block...
Anyway, why is the 2.2 liter conversion all but dissapeared? Because of the 2.5 maybe?
Graham.
Take even a new 2.5 with its quirky pistons, fit forged items onto the 2.5's rods (leaves the crank factory fresh still) and you have a good foundation block.
Can you get the StiV3 heads to align to the 2.5 to 'fix' the gasket issues (at 1.5 bar max) and if so, with the 20g etc on the engine, maybe a FMIC too, you should see 400 x 400.
The only downside i see to the 2.5 in practical terms is the road insurance!
A 2.15 or a 2.2 still uses the '2 liter' block...
Anyway, why is the 2.2 liter conversion all but dissapeared? Because of the 2.5 maybe?
Graham.
Yes, not ignoring you either David. I can't look at engines at the mo, 2006 will be a heavy $$$ year, but good to spend some time getting the lowdown on the options.
Options do seem to change as time and experience goes by.
I want to DIY the engine as it is so satisfying when it runs! My first 911 engine was fab when it fired and ran 20 bhp above factory spec, and the 911 is so similar to the impreza in several ways. (and I'm bores with the car essentially done for the start of next year.)
Graham.
Options do seem to change as time and experience goes by.
I want to DIY the engine as it is so satisfying when it runs! My first 911 engine was fab when it fired and ran 20 bhp above factory spec, and the 911 is so similar to the impreza in several ways. (and I'm bores with the car essentially done for the start of next year.)
Graham.
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
I have been advised that there are no HG issues with a 400/400 tune, as long as you use the correct gaskets in the first place. I have ARP head bolts too.
I think john Banks has proved that mapping 'near the mark' with big boost does them no favours
I think john Banks has proved that mapping 'near the mark' with big boost does them no favours
John is the 2.5 pioneer and from what I can gather the 'common denominator' for a stock 2.5 is 1.4 bar, 20g, 700's injectors (etc) and you will have a heart stirring 400+ x 400 gearbox shreadder!
So where are the 2.2's?
I thought a 2.2 was a simple 2 liter block with a stroker crank etc (Toda and others come to mind..) but the build was reasonably meccano'ish.
David, didn't you have a go with a 2.2 about a year or so ago?
If a 2.35 is revvy and full of guts, and a 2.5 is well rounded and a smoothie, then the 2.2 is a good bet?
Graham.
So where are the 2.2's?
I thought a 2.2 was a simple 2 liter block with a stroker crank etc (Toda and others come to mind..) but the build was reasonably meccano'ish.
David, didn't you have a go with a 2.2 about a year or so ago?
If a 2.35 is revvy and full of guts, and a 2.5 is well rounded and a smoothie, then the 2.2 is a good bet?
Graham.
I think Mikee has a relinered 2.0 cdb, I hope he wont mind me posting that!
He has also put in some storming times this year
So would stroking it out to 2.15/2.2 give the same potential as relinering the block?
He has also put in some storming times this year

So would stroking it out to 2.15/2.2 give the same potential as relinering the block?
You never see anyone on here talking about 2.2's, or bits for sale, or disasters.
Did anyone actually get one and sort it out?
Why not fit a 2.2 and the rebore by 1mm?
I feel this subject is distinctly 'foggy'.(but interesting)
Graham
Did anyone actually get one and sort it out?
Why not fit a 2.2 and the rebore by 1mm?
I feel this subject is distinctly 'foggy'.(but interesting)
Graham
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From: @Junc 12, M40 Warwicksh; 01926 614522 CV33 9PL -Use 9GX for Satnav. South Mids Alcatek ECu dealer
Graham, The 2.2 stroker is in fact barely 2.138, if I remember. VERY revvable but hardly bigger than the 2.0 and do not expect it to be that much better due to capacity.
2.33 is my favoured route these days.
David APi Engines / APi lmpreza
www.apiengines.com
2.33 is my favoured route these days.
David APi Engines / APi lmpreza
www.apiengines.com
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From: All over the place, trying to stop putting the miles on!
You will have to get up a bit earlier next time Andy
Just accumulating parts for a future project at the moment.
First thing is to get the new gearbox built and fitted then wring the neck of Tims old turbo

Dan.
Just accumulating parts for a future project at the moment.
First thing is to get the new gearbox built and fitted then wring the neck of Tims old turbo

Dan.
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
Graham, AFAIK the 2.33 is a 2.2 block with the 2.5 crank, which is why CDB 2.2's are so sought after




