I shouldn't worry about having S/C 1st and 2nd, how often/long during the day do you actually drive in 1st or 2nd I'd be more concerned with 3rd and 4th seeing as they're the gears where you would really need to have S/C

 

Thinking like Tim above, I thought as 3rd was the gear that failed most, I would be looking for helical 1st, s/c 2nd and 3rd, heli 4th and normal 5th, all syncro if possible.

 

I think with the way the gears are set up in the box that it is only possible to mix and match the 1-2 / 3-4 clusters and 5th is it's own entity.
I'm sure someone who takes theese boxes apart more often than me can confirm or deny this.

What gear were the par kits failing in? can't remember of the top of my head.

Dan.

 

4th, and only those from a specific batch as I understood it...problem is, it is dificult to tell which batch the 4th gear has come from

 

PAR failures John and I suffered were both 4th. Most likely a bad batch - we bought them around the same time, and others had run them earlier without problems. I'd still go PPG if I was doing it again now though

But as Graham mentions, it costs much more than simply plonking a 6MT in. Main issue for me isn't even the shorter gearing, but the extra weight (~20kg).

Richard

 

Nobody likes the +20Kg even though it is in the middle of the car (ish).

The $$$ saved by using the 6 speeder can get you a long way towards the 2.5 engine you know you REALLY want and the use of slicks on the track will overcome the weight issue IMHO in the case of hard hill climb competition.

I don't race on the roads, so no weight issue there, just going well on the hills.

Graham.

 

Just back from the SSO at Elvington, my first ever Scooby event, really good, and took me back to my youthful RWYB sessions at Santa Pod in the Hot Rods, about 1974....

Great racing, the final was very good..
Some visibly fast cars there, glad I didn't enter now as I would have been blown clean away.
Obviously 400 bhp is not enough!

Some pisc for you:





And I wanted to take this home with me..sorry:



Nice to mee some of you there, hope my age didn't frighten too many

Hard luck to AndyF, that car is QUICK.

Graham.

 

got fed-up trying to bleed the 911's brakes, so turned to the Sti last night.

I added the tank vent tube back and led a drain pipe to the chassis about where the carbon canister would vent. I blocked the engine bay located tube off originally when i did the parallel fuel line job. The suction level in the tank when you unscrewed the cap was stunning...hope that will take the strain off the pump.

BUT, I checked the breather catch tank, the one I eventually fitted to vent the crankcase etc.
I am surprised to find it bone dry, no oil traces at all after 1000 miles and some hard running races.
The TMIC must be bone dry too, and nothing corrupting the fuel octane rating now

Sod at the time, but well worth it now!

Racing at Shelsley Walsh after this weekend, the scariest hill climb in the UK, just NO room for error

Graham.

 

Interesting Graham. I talked to Bob about removing the carbon canister and he suggested blocking the 2 vents to the tank and the TB. The tank vent is one way anyway so in theory it should pressurise the tank rather than create a vacuum.

What say you?

F

 

If you block both the vents, how does the air get in to replace the fuel you use ???

Andy

 

IIRQ the small line to the canister is the purge line to the TB. This vent gases into the TB that builds up in the canister so this is OK to block. The fuel tank vent line has a one way valve and vents gases to the canister from the tank (when pressure builds up in the tank). If this is blocked then pressure is not released but I think the main problem is vacuum in the tank as you say. The fuel cap deals with this at some point and some people as well as IIRC Harvey, have drilled holes through it anyway. This cap valve replaces the vacuum that is created by the fuel usage.

If vent lines are T’d and open to the chassis rail/engine bay then this would seem ‘volatile’ and I have read that at least one person has had fuel come out at this point

If pressure does build up it’ll be when the tank is full and the car is left in sunlight but I wouldn’t know how much pressure there would be and whether it was designed for much hotter climes anyway than the UK (Japan)…

F

 

It is difficult to determin if a neg or pos pressure as it disperses so fast when you open the cap, but there is no smell of fuel vapour on the forecourt so neg pressure is supposed.(atmosphere rushes into tank)

If I drill a 2mm hole or so into the fuel cap I'm bothered if the fuel in the tank will bleed out of the hole during hard cornering/fast changes of direction while hill climbing.
I have to race on 1/2 tank to kill off fuel starvation. The petrol could readily run up the filler neck during such action.

Must admit I havn't run the car since fitting the tube from the existing engine bay located pipe to 'floor' so don't know if the tank is free of neg/pos pressure.
The tank should realy be 'relaxed' during all conditions?
Take your point about fuel expansion in hot weather, but a free breather to the tank will help here too?

I was not aware of the one-way-valve in the breather tube, where is that or is that the smallish valve in the lines close to the carbon canister ?(which I have removed)
If so it would be simple to replace that back into the breather pipe I have just fitted.
I guess the valve allows air in and not liquid/vapour fuel out.

Thanks for the replies.

ps Those GT30 tubos do look like windmills to me Andy...

Graham

 

On my car the one way valve is a small light grey bottle cap sized device near the canister. It has an arrow on it indicating flow direction IIRC, which is pointing away from the fuel tank. Not aware that it stops fuel but allows gas only. Thought it only allowed gas/liquid from tank but nothing back. The fuel cap only lets air into the tank under a certain vacuum level. The whole idea is not to vent any fuel vapour into the atmosphere in the OE set up, so I guess that the pump can easily cope with a small vacuum in the tank, which is balanced by the cap. The pressure would normally be released via the vent to the cansiter. Probably the only time pressure would build in the tank is at standstill with engine /pump off so not a huge problem?

F

 

Think you are right.
The car is not exactly the 'greenest' car I have, just the pressure in the tank seems very excessive to me compared to the 3 other cars I have!
Mad hobby this.

Graham.

 

Raced the Sti at Shelsey Walsh this weekend only to get my doos blown off by The EVO and a quick Nissan GTi...back to earth for the weekend!

Still did a personal best, some championship points but 3rd...? Not good enough.

Chatting to the EVO5 pilot, he runs 2.2 bar! (2000cc motor)
Chatting to the Nissan pilot, he runs 'about 1.8 bar'...

Am I missing something here?

How come the 20g 'only' boosts at 1.4 bar and these others get such high boost levels?

Can anyone explain please?

Graham

 

Hi Graham i was there today got the P1 out the garage .I was trying to get some driving tips from your run as i will be there next year fingers crossed.That gtir did sound nice.Had a play with a caterham 7 on the way home i saw it go up the hill it was green with bits of yellow on it and anthracite wheels , simular to the P1 wheels.I am pushing 370BHP at the moment from the car 3rd and 4th gear 50 to 120 and it was dead level ,wonder what engine was in it?
martin

 

Graham, they'll be running better forged internals, different gaskets and different turbos, I bet they don't see 1.4 bar as quickly as you do! You could run more but there would probably be little point...your engine wouldn't like it

Boost isn't everything, hell I only ran 1.25 bar on mine and that was good enough for a 12.42 second quarter...rasing it by 0.1 bar then saw me run a 12.33 and finally a 12.3...I doubt boost had anything to do with that to be perfectly frank. However the rest of the excellent 'Mark Map' did!

Don't fret about what the others are running, concentrate on your driving, not their psych skills Oh and running those boost levels, aren't good for reliability Your car is probably one of the most competative machines in the series, you have the skills, in your shoes I'd be looking at other subtle improvements like loosing more weight from the car (the sound deadening and underseal weigh around 50kg alone, the stock front seats 70kg, the rear squabs 10 to 15) Oh and how about a CO2 spray bar for the intercooler...that should chill it nicely during your run

 

Thanks for the +ve view point!
Hate loosing.
The EVO driver has a bus pass and the Nissan driver is about half my age...
I think i lost my nerve in the third flat in 3rd gear bend and that killed the speed up this very steep hill climb.

I was very consistant:Of the 2 time competition runs

64 foot times were 2.10 and 2.11 sec
Speed into the lower 'esse' was 82 and 82 mph
Speed over the finish line was 92 and 92 mph

Times overall were 33.82 and 33.62

Must try harder, take a deep breath and close one eye (or both) going through that 3rd bend next time.
Bloody EVO's

Loton Park next weekend

Graham.

 

Hmm...maybe some lessons from Steven (P20SPD) to get those 64 ft times down would help With your power, tyres and scoob traction you could esily get them down to 1.8 secs (or better)...now that could have got you down on your best time to around 33.3...how would that have placed you against the two people who were ahead of you on the day?

Steven and I seem to use a similar technique when getting our cars off the line, we start blipping the accelerator progressively harder and harder, and then (in my case at least) launch on a 75% full open throttle at say 6k rpm, we bring the clutch up fast, not side step, just bring it in fast, as soon as the car moves I plant the accelrator to the floor and then usually have to grab second gear a millisecond later...it's an amazing launch Pulsing the accelerator tends to help a) stopping the car bogging down and b) producing a bit of turbulance in the exhaust to help with turbo spool up

 

Dunnno Tim (sure the STi forged pistons are very strong) .... Graham I have been involved with a hillclimbing EVO 7 RS over here and definetly it was "very" quick. Just a stock EVO 7 engine with a thinner HKS headgasket, bigger HKS FMIC, and a M800 plus 100RON fuel. The car should be around 400hp, and makes 1.6 bar of boost in 4th gear (of the RS gearbox) @ 3200rpm ..... and it sustains 1.6 bar upto 7000rpm. If u want a point of comparison it can do sub 12s passes any day .....

You are one of the few guys to actually point out that the 20g is somewhat "laggy" and for sure the only solution to get a faster response would either a soft ALS or bigger displacement. Still don't understand why u can't sustain 1,4bar @ redline .....

BTW the best way to get a good start consistently is using launch control

 

I think I'm going to have to drive one of these lag free 20g's to see if its the same definition of my version of lag free!

I think Tim may have a point in that chasing more power my not be as efficient as improving everything else. I know you've done lots of work on the chassis but maybe some more weight loss and cooling mods will pay dividends?

F

 

Graham, what revs do you actually launch at?

 

there's an easy 4 tenths to knock off your starts, how much would that of changed the result out of interest? or are we talking seconds here?

 

Been working since 4.15am this morning, just got back, so a bit Buzzzed!

EVO time was 31.8 ish, 2.05 64ft, finish terminal 102 mph. It runs Motec.(and a LOT more)
Nissan was 33.4 ish 2.04 64ft, finish terminal 97. It runs MAP ECU, no maf.

As to the start:
4500 steady and quickly up with the (AP Organic) clutch. Gun it to 7500 and change to second etc.

Note that hill climb start surfaces are traction compound free (not allowed), are slightly uphill (about 1:10 at Shelsley) and are 64ft, not the Drag Racing 60 feet in length.

A very very very good start at Shelsley was 1.8 secs on the sunday.

I'm still depressed. !

Graham.

 

Graham u have a PM.

 

Will pm you back in a minute!

 

4.5k isn't enough IMHO, not with your turbo at least

 

What happens when you launch at 6k?

David

 

IMO, no way is 4.5 enough to launch the car with tyres you have and the td05/06, surely it just bogs, unless you have anti lag.

I would be at least launching at 5500 rpm without antilag.

 

Might be worth practicing launches using a g-tech meter or similar.

Bob