Oooh and has anyone managed to put a dimmer switch in for the illumination? Is it as easy as putting a dimmer switch on the orange 'light' cable?

 

Hi,

I have fitted my gauges......

For the Oil Temp and Oil Pressure gauges:-

Connected the red wires together to the same source and the same for the black wires for earth.....connected the orange wire to a light source and connected the green wire to the sender...gauges work fine....the only problem is that when i switch the lights on i get no difference in brightness ....has everyone else experienced the same.........


Cheers


Bash

 

Could someone confirm that this is actually a temp and not pressure sender please?



I've noticed they have the same thread fitment so could have been sent a pressure one in error..? That would tally with it shorting to ground, wouldn't it..?

Cheers,

Ben

 

That looks the same as my temperature sender.

 

Thats a temp sender, but mine has a red and black wire on it.

Bash.... I get the same situation as you. Gauges are all lit with ignition on. With lights on I see no difference in brightness at all. (my orange leads connect to rear fog switch).

OllieCampbell... My lambdalink and knocklink displays were extended with 'flyleads' by someone who offered on Scoobynet.. I believe his details were on the thread for the knocklink group buy, but I cant recall them myself. Basically the leds on the standard unit are 'cut' and a length of ribbon cable (routed through the original LED holes) is soldered in place with LEDs fitted to the end.

I have positioned my KL and LL display units behind the lower dash panel (below steering wheel) and ran the flyleads up to instrument panel. I managed to place the LEDs in two sets (1 for KL and 1 for LL) on the underside of the instrument cowling, taped to the curved plastic panel thats held by two screws, so the LEDs are effectively along the upper front rim of the instrument panel..... That probably makes no sense at all..I must get some photos..

Anyway no drilling of dash or instrument cowling was required and the LEDs are in line of sight, although for some people the rim of the steering wheel could well hide the leds.

 

If you only supply power to the orange illumiation cable (i.e. switch the power off to the red cable), the gauge is illuminated perfectly for night driving

 

Yep, sorta understand what you mean with regards to the LEDs, just gotta do a quick hunt for whoever did the mod now

 

I have recently ordered 3 gauges direct through the website. (Thanks Austen)

they are due to arrive next week.

Do you think it is still possbile to contact Lemans and get this fixing kit??

Do I just tell them Austen name??

DO I know what I should receive and is the price correct at £23 inc vat and del.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Just got to think of a way to mount them now

SSS

 

Ditto the above, ordered a set today so will need the adaptor kit too.
Thanks.

 

just give lemans a call, and tell them you want the subaru fitting kit that I arranged with them.

 

Done, thanks.

 

Ordered mine today aswell Austen.

Thanks very much


SSS

 

Received my Le Mans adaptor bits earlier this week, very efficient.

Got my Auto Gauge gauges today from XyberAutos, for the money I think they are a steal.

Mark

 

Finally got some pics... Sorry about the quality ( or lack of it)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC00010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC00008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...y/DSC00009.jpg

 

gauges look !!

 

Cool gauges

 

Not a bad idea for those LEDs

 

Just wondering what the impressions of you group buyers are of these gauges. I am thinking of getting some, but would value your comments on them greatly.

 

FX02, For the value you can't go wrong. Quality and style is very good,okay the POD ain't that special but you can't moan its free. If I had too I'd Buy these again I would no questions asked.

Great group-buy organised by Austen_wrx.

 

Thanks matscooby. Your comments are appreciated.

 

Are these gauges any good I have seen a guy from Australia selling them on ebay for the following prices:
Boost Meter: £15
Air Fuel meter: £25
Vacuum: £15
Volt Meter: £15
Water Temp: £15.50
Rev counter: £20
Oil Temp: £16
Oil Pressure: £16

Postage is £8 each but they say if you buy 2 or more then they will knock off upto 40% of the shipping cost. Could be good for another Group Buy? If not I may order a Boost, Oil Press and Oil Temp for myself.

 

Hi All,

Just ordered and fitted myself a set of these gauges (not part of the group buy but thanks to Austen for finding them and for organising the fitting kits).

Not connected the oil temp or pressure yet but have fitted my boost gauge and there is definately a noticeable reduction in boost. Connected it as per here - http://www.mattrandolph.com/wrx/boost/ which seems to be correct having searched about but something doesn't feel right. I have already checked and made sure that the t-piece is fitted securly and that there are no leaks.

Has anyone else had problems with this ? I wonder if the internal bore of the t-piece is too small compared to the pipe it is connected into.

When idling the gauge reads at about -.8, reads 0 when accelerating gently and goes to just over 1 when accelerating hard.

Car is 03 WRX PPP. Any help or advice would really be appreciated.

Cheers
El

 

El, I have a similar problem with my newly fitted vacuum gauge on my normally aspirated engine. I basically guessed which hose to use, have have put the T-piece in here (hose highlighted, shown before fitting T):



Mine shows just above 0 in.Hg at idle, increases up to around 10 proportionally to throttle pressure, but snaps back down to 0 at around half throttle and stays at 0 all the way up to full throttle. It also goes to 0 on lift off. If I rev in neutral the gauge doesn't go back to 0 under hard throttle and will go up to about 22 (before I lift off quick before hitting the redline). I'm guessing I've gone into the wrong hose, does anyone know? I have a vague memory of there being a thread about someone fitting their T piece the wrong side of their dump valve (on a turbo obviously) and having similar problems.

A bit gutting to see those prices Supna! I think we were happy with the deal we got at the time though to be fair.

 

Here is a pic of mine fitted which seems to be the right place:



On Sunday afternoon I remove the t-piece, ran a 4mm drill thru it from end to end (luckily the plastic is quite thick so plenty of strength to get away with it) and hey presto, boost is back to normal. Guess it must have been the narrow bore of the t-piece restricting it.

Here a pic of the pod fitted too. Got the ATI pod and paint matched the back of it to match the dash. It's not perfect but I am well pleased with the result:



Anyone else find the gauges a bit hard to read in the daylight, particuarly in bright sunshine ?

El

 

Cheers El. I found out on NASIOC (where they're old hands with N/A Imprezas) that I needed to tap the hose from cyl. #3's inlet manifold to the fuel regulator, now my vacuum gauge is working as it should. The 'glass' does seem quite reflective which makes them a bit tricky to read in daylight yes, they're much better if they're totally clean though, it took quite a while to get my mucky fingerprints off them!

Xyberautos have sent me a replacement temp sender today, the new one doesn't short and its resistance changes when I dip it in my cup of tea so I hope it should get my oil temp gauge working. I treated myself to an oil pressure gauge too (Xyber almost price matched the above Ebay prices while they were sending my replacement temp sender). I now need the pressure bit of the kit having already bought temp adapter !

I've read through the thread again and read the issues about the pressure sender hitting the bonnet as the LeMans hose is too long; have they been told about this so adapted their fitting kit as appropriate? If not, should I ask that the hose be half the length of that supplied in the original spec kit?

Cheers,

Ben

 

Ask them to reduce the lenght of the hose by 25mm or so. It also helps if the pressure sender is fitted pointing towards the alternator, rather than the bonnet.

 

Would it be possible to get the part numbers for these gauges and fittings.

Thanks

 

http://www.xyberautos.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=40

 

Fitted the Boost Gauge last night which I have put in a single pod near my line of sight - intending to mount the other 2 on a pillar pod!

The boost gauge was great last night!

However have discovered today that I can only read the gauge in daylight if it is overcast! In sunlight it can't be read! Has anyone come up with a solution to this?

 

YES! A couple of days ago I tried increasing the voltage to the gauges to 15V, it doesn't have any effect on the brightness as the gauges have an internal regulator which limits the voltage to 12V. So, plan B, I removed the smoked lenses!
The aluminium bezels are quite easy to remove, just use a flat bladed screwdriver to bend the skirt out around the whole circumference, then pull the bezel off. The lens then lifts out. It's 48mm diameter, but I couldn't find any suitable plastic lenses on the net, so I tried making my own. Stick the smoked lens to some clear plastic or Perspex (I used a CD case ) and cut around it with a craft knife. Stick the lens to the bottom of the Perspex so you can cut from both sides. After a while, the new 48mm plastic disk will lift out. Pop the new clear lens in, and gently flatten the skirt down with the screwdriver. You can't see this when the gauges are mounted anyway.
This pic shows the difference between a clear lens and a smoked lens (I can't remember if they were powered or not):



This one shows them powered for comparison, the light levels are relative as the exposure time was adjusted:



All three done:



I bought a replacement oil pressure gauge before I started doing this, the original one was sticky so I used it for experimentation. ...and I found out today that my pressure sender is faulty, so I have replaced it with the new one - it is a resistive type sender which reads approx 13 ohms when at atmospheric pressure. The original sender was reading open-circuit when the ignition was switched on, which mean the needle swung round to full-scale and got stuck there.

I also found that the sender was not earthed correctly, so it's worthwhile measuring the resistance to ground with the engine off, and adding a ground wire if necessary (I think the braided cable could be to blame for this).

The only problem with this is that I might see reflections because the lens is flat, a clear 48mm convex lens would be perfect.
Maybe I should have got the electroluminescent ones - Nah! It's more fun this way!