Yes I have had the same problem with my oil pressure gauge, although I haven't had the engine running very hot, it idles between 3 & 4 bar.

 

Come on guys..............need more feed back ........

 

Sorry, I don't know yet. The roads are still too mucky to take it out for a spin, and I don't like cold idling .
Searching for other threads now.

 

Is anyone going to type up a full installation guide with piccy's for the mentally challenged amongst?????????? or is this wishful thinking.

 

These seem to be typical figures based on a search:

Figures in Bar, (1 bar = 14.5PSI)
--------------Cold-----------HOT---------------
Case 1:______8 idle_________3 idle
Case 2:______5.5 idle_______1.7 - 3.1 idle
____________6.9 @2k______4.8 - 6.2 @2k
Case 3:___________________2-3 idle
_________________________5 running
Case 4:______6.9 idle_______2 - 2.4 idle
_________________________3.4 - 4.1 normal driving
_________________________6.9 when boosting

 

sounds about right then.

Just wondered if any air trapped in the pipe between the block and the sender could make it flicker. Maybe bleeding the pipe may settle it down?????

 

I don't fancy "bleeding" 100PSI of black messy stuff
Maybe remove the T piece and fill everything with oil using a syringe?

 

let us know what happens.

 

Hi All

I've managed to lose the nuts and electrical terminal for the oil temp sender. Anyone have any idea what thread it is so I can replace them?

Cheers,

Ben

 

Doh I've also lost the instructions for oil temp , could anyone be so kind as to post which colour wire should go where please?

Should the temp sender go in to any specific torque or is 'that feels about right' accurate enough?

 

black - ground
red - 12V ignition
orange - lights
greens - goes to sender

I didnt have a sender with nuts and terminal
It was 2 fixed wires coming out of it (red & black)

So I joined the red (from sender) to the green (from gauge) and the black (on the sender) goes to earth

I dont know the thread size but it will either be 4 or 5mm

 

Hi,

Finally got round to fitting my gauges today - Boost, Oil pressure and temp, but similarly have also mislaid all of the instructions (I opened the boxes about 1 month ago, and put all the instructions in a safe place.... so safe I now can't find them).

Anyway I have the following wires -

Boost gauge - Red, Black, Orange

Oil temp - Red, Black, orange + red, black , green

Oil pressure - Red, Black, orange + red, black , green


Any pointers as to what connects to what ? I assume all orange are for lights, black for earth, red 12V ignition ?

Can someone confirm please ?

cheers

 

That's a bit odd Jerry, maybe I haven't lost anything after all and part of my sender is missing..? I'll try to post up a pic tomorrow. If I do need nuts and a terminal, I assumed the thread would be something American as with the sender, not a nice simple M4 or whatever. Cheers for the info.

FC, yep, my boost gauge instructions say red to 12v ignition, black to earth, orange to 12v lights. HTH.

 

Thanks for the reply...

I don't know if I'm being stupid here.....

Red to ignition
Orange to lights (purple/white lead for fog lights)
Black to earth.


The gauge illuminates as soon as ignition is on , is that correct ? if so what does the orange lead to the light circuit do ?

 

Ok,

Some progress made today.

Gauges all wired up, senders in place as per instructions in this thread...

Oil pressure - working fine
Boost... - ready to go, but need a longer piece of tubing
Oil temp - not getting any reading on the gauge. I've put a voltmeter on the red witre on the sender and its reading about 6-7 volts when engine is warm. Can anyone confirm the wiring for the temp gauge ?
cheers

 

Does your sender for the oil temp have 2 wires,
or is it the sender with a nut and terminal crimp.

If your have the 2 wire version the red goes to the gauge and the black must go to the car earth.

 

Hi,


The sender has two wires. Black goes to engine earth, red goes to green on gauge.

 

Here is my sender, with an extra M5 nut fitted to the upper thread bit:



I'm pretty sure I didn't lose anything with wires attached, so is mine a different sort? I assume I attach the green wire from the gauge to the upper thread (which is isolated from the brass sender body) with nuts and a terminal, and it will ground through the body onto the engine block; that sound about right to anyone?

Also, there are two sets of 3 cables into the oil temp gauge. Black, Red, and Green; & Black, Red, and Orange. Are the black and red wires that enter the gauge with the green wire to power the workings of the gauge seperately from the backlight (i.e. could actually be wired to the same 12v ignition and earth points) or is there more to it?

How have people with a MY93-97 dash routed their wires out of the dash? Through the windscreen vent would be neat and handy if there's a way out of it again towards the ECU and/or one of the grommets to get into the engine bay. Would the wires and tube get too hot in there with the heater on?

Many thanks in advance for any advice.

Ben

 

That's it! By the way, how far did you screw your temperature sender in?
Again, you understand correctly. The blacks can be wired together, and the reds can be wired together. The green attaches to the sender. The orange goes to any wire which reads 12V when the head/side lights are switched on.

 

My temp sender is slightly different, in that I have a short (about 3 inches) red and black wire attached to it.

I have wired black to earth, red connects to green wire from gauge.

The other wires from the gauge I have wired as you have said -

2 reds to 12v ignition
2 blacks to earth
green to sender (as mentioned)
orange to 12v light circuit..

However, I get no movement on the temp gauge.

Cheers

 

Try letting the car get up to temperature and then tap the gauge, maybe the needle is stuck?

 

Has anyone compiled some fitting instructions/photos? I dont mind knocking up the guide/webpage if someone mails me the bits

 

The easiest thing if still no joy is to take the sender out of the engine, and with it still wired up and your ignition on pop the sender into a cup of boiling hot water to see if gauge moves.

This is how I did mine because I had no instructions for the 2 wire sender.

If still no joy re-check your wiring.

 

Thanks for your reply. Have worked out my cable runs and taken the centre console out today so I'm ready to wire up tomorrow morning. My sender isn't all the way into the adapter by a fair bit, 5mm maybe of thread still visible. That's about as far as it would go using a sensible amount of torque with a pair of spanners.

For my next question... I've also made an AFR display which I'm going to put into the third pod as I only have 2 gauges. (I used the kit you recommended Austen, if you're still reading this mega-thread! Like this if anyone's interested.) I need to tap into the signals from the lamda and MAF sensors for this and assume this will be easier at the sensors rather than at the ECU as I don't have a wiring diagram. The MAF has Green, Black and Yellow+Blue wires; the Lamda has White, White (yes, 2!) and Black before the plug and White, Black and Yellow+Red on the wiring loom side of the plug; which ones of those gives me my signal?

Hope you get your oil temp sorted out F_C.

I don't think anyone's done a guide Ollie, most of the info is in this thread though and we all keep asking when we get stuck! I guess most people fitted already..?

Cheers guys,

Ben

 

keep us up dated on the AFR, i've still not made mine

 

thanks for the replies Guys,

Will check out the temp sender and gauge on Saturday and post results..

 

I still don't know where to tap for vacuum and AFR, but have just plumbed in the oil temp. The sender is shorting to ground, so I send a ground signal up my sensor wire and the gauge needle goes round to the stop as soon as I switch the electrics on

Any ideas? I'm away for a few days now but will email Xyberautos about my sender being different when I get back. Hope I don't have to change the sender as I've given back the tools I borrowed.

The backlighting looks great and dims to what looks (in daylight) to be a sensible level for night driving. I've disconnected the oil temp signal wire as I don't want to damage the gauge.

I've soldered up the AFR Austen but not tested it yet. The soldering was straighforward enough, the only tricky bit being figuring out which diode went where. I'm going to wire the LEDs remotely and have a twin pole switch to switch off the common Anodes and the power to the gauges. Thus if I want them off it will only be the display that is actually off, the alarm will still sound if I go lean under load. That's the theory anyway, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Update on temp gauge...

Removed the temp sender, Disconnected / reconnected all the wiring, tested in cup of boiling water...All working fine. Reconnected and all is working fine, with temp of about 90 deg for normal 'enthusiastic' driving.

Also managed to get a longer piece of hose and connected up Boost gauge and all is working fine. Also got my Knocklink and Lambdalink positioned with extended LEDs. I'll try and post some pics.

Cheers

 

Nice, slowly getting it all done then
Ive still gotta order my a pillar pods first

How did you extend the knock/lambdalink leds? I want to do the same up into my a pillar pods

 

Still no further forward with my temp sender. Can't figure out why it's just a short to ground. They haven't sent me a pressure sender by mistake have they? Are they the same fitment? See pic up there ^ !

Glad you got yours sorted F_C.