Gauge group Buy
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From: Leeds
anyone want to swap their BAR boost Gauge for a PSI one ?
Phil
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www.uk-performance.net
Phil
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www.uk-performance.net
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From: Birmingham
Who had the problem with the pressure sender?? I conected mine up today, no pressure registered when ignition is on, but as soon as you start the car (and get oil pressre 
) the needle bangs al the way round to max, and doesn't move 
Either my engine is screwed or something odds going on with the sender
) the needle bangs al the way round to max, and doesn't move Either my engine is screwed
or something odds going on with the sender
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Who had the problem with the pressure sender?? I conected mine up today, no pressure registered when ignition is on, but as soon as you start the car (and get oil pressre ) the needle bangs al the way round to max, and doesn't move
Either my engine is screwed or something odds going on with the sender
) the needle bangs al the way round to max, and doesn't move Either my engine is screwed
or something odds going on with the senderAfter earthing my sender properly, mine starts at zero and rises to around 90-95PSI/6.2 bar.
If it falls to a readable value when the engine warms, then you just have high oil pressure, I've read about some oil pressures being higher than 7bar on startup, so it's quite common. If it bothers you, and you think it's more important to see the pressure fluctuating, and after checking the grounding, you can adjust the calibration of the gauge by removing the red sticker on the rear of it, you'll see a potentiometer in there, use a small bladed screwdriver to adjust it.
Thread Starter
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From: Birmingham
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
If you have a multimeter, try measuring the resistance to ground from the pressure sender with the ignition off. It should be around 13 ohms, this rises as the pressure rises.
After earthing my sender properly, mine starts at zero and rises to around 90-95PSI/6.2 bar.
If it falls to a readable value when the engine warms, then you just have high oil pressure, I've read about some oil pressures being higher than 7bar on startup, so it's quite common. If it bothers you, and you think it's more important to see the pressure fluctuating, and after checking the grounding, you can adjust the calibration of the gauge by removing the red sticker on the rear of it, you'll see a potentiometer in there, use a small bladed screwdriver to adjust it.
After earthing my sender properly, mine starts at zero and rises to around 90-95PSI/6.2 bar.
If it falls to a readable value when the engine warms, then you just have high oil pressure, I've read about some oil pressures being higher than 7bar on startup, so it's quite common. If it bothers you, and you think it's more important to see the pressure fluctuating, and after checking the grounding, you can adjust the calibration of the gauge by removing the red sticker on the rear of it, you'll see a potentiometer in there, use a small bladed screwdriver to adjust it.
I have a multimeter, so do i check the resitance i just stick 1 probe on the screw (ontop of the sender) and the other on ground, i.e the block??
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Originally Posted by austen_wrx
Fantastic info, thanks very very much!!!!
I have a multimeter, so do i check the resitance i just stick 1 probe on the screw (ontop of the sender) and the other on ground, i.e the block??
I have a multimeter, so do i check the resitance i just stick 1 probe on the screw (ontop of the sender) and the other on ground, i.e the block??
The first sender I had was reading infinite resistance (open circuit) when the engine was off causing the needle to swing to full scale, strangely, it gave normalish readings when the car was running.
Also check the resistance between the body of the sender and the engine block, with ignition off and engine running, it should be near zero obviously.
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Originally Posted by Taff107
Has anyone got a guide / pic of the locations of where the oil temp and oil pressure goes on a 02 WRX?
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showpost....&postcount=318
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How to make a profit:
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
New gauges = 79.90
New pod = 99
Total £178.9 for new parts, asking price £250 for second hand.
New pod = 99
Total £178.9 for new parts, asking price £250 for second hand.
If the pod was £99 you would have to add postage on top of that.
Thats £233.97 without any postage costs £16.03 may cover the postage on these. Even if it does, the blokes hardly going to become a millionaire out of the deal.
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Originally Posted by FX02
As austen wrx says in the above post £44.99 per gauge. Presumably + postage.
If the pod was £99 you would have to add postage on top of that.
Thats £233.97 without any postage costs £16.03 may cover the postage on these. Even if it does, the blokes hardly going to become a millionaire out of the deal.
If the pod was £99 you would have to add postage on top of that.
Thats £233.97 without any postage costs £16.03 may cover the postage on these. Even if it does, the blokes hardly going to become a millionaire out of the deal.
http://www.xyberautos.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=458
£79.90 inc vat and postage.
The £250 asking price was not including postage.
It hardly matters anyway, they are worth what the buyer is willing to pay
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
..but you wouldn't buy three single gauges in that combination:
http://www.xyberautos.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=458
£79.90 inc vat and postage.
The £250 asking price was not including postage.
It hardly matters anyway, they are worth what the buyer is willing to pay
http://www.xyberautos.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=458
£79.90 inc vat and postage.
The £250 asking price was not including postage.
It hardly matters anyway, they are worth what the buyer is willing to pay
I may be missing something (I'm not technically minded), but why wouldn't you buy three single gauges in that combination?
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Originally Posted by FX02
I agree that they are worth what some one is prepared to pay for them.
I may be missing something (I'm not technically minded), but why wouldn't you buy three single gauges in that combination?
I may be missing something (I'm not technically minded), but why wouldn't you buy three single gauges in that combination?
(Hence this group buy). Personally I wouldn't sell mine if you offered me £300 for them!
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
... because they are much cheaper in a set of three! (Hence this group buy).
Eh??? What does that have to do with the point you made about not buying them individually in that combination??
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Originally Posted by FX02
Eh??? What does that have to do with the point you made about not buying them individually in that combination??
£79.90 or £134.97, it's not a difficult choice.
Originally Posted by Jiggerypokery
Erm, £79.90 for all three as a set from Xyber autos, or individually at £44.99 each from scooby world.
£79.90 or £134.97, it's not a difficult choice.
£79.90 or £134.97, it's not a difficult choice.
That does not mean that the ones for sale with the pod were bought from the group buy, or Xyber autos though. You can buy them else where as scooby world show. The ones they are selling can be bought singularly to make up the same combination as those advertised with the pod. Therefore they could have been bought from scooby world at a cost of £134.97 + postage. If I paid that for them I wouldn't want to sell them for peanuts.
I like what you have done with the gauges you bought. Very inventive and cost effective using cd covers. I am thinking of doing the same with mine, but am a bit worried about taking a screw driver to the nice looking silvery edges. Did you manage to get them back on without them looking bent?
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Originally Posted by FX02
If I paid that for them I wouldn't want to sell them for peanuts.
The internals of the gauges are surprisingly well made, I wasn't expecting Defi quality for the price, but I was impressed!
Originally Posted by FX02
I like what you have done with the gauges you bought. Very inventive and cost effective using cd covers. I am thinking of doing the same with mine, but am a bit worried about taking a screw driver to the nice looking silvery edges. Did you manage to get them back on without them looking bent?
I searched for suitable lenses, but couldn't find any pre-made ones apart from magnifying glasses, it doesn't take long to cut a new lens from CD case plastic.
I was a worried about ruining the gauges, but the aluminium bends quite easily, and can be folded flat when replacing it. The screwdriver leaves marks, but only on the rear of the aluminium, you definitely won't be able to see any marks when they are fitted.
Matt,
I bought the set of three gauges from Xyber autos and was impressed by the prompt delivery (about 5 days), i then contacted AS performance in Birtley who is going to fit them for me and he was saying that the only problem that he could foresee was that the turbo boost "sender?" "reader?" (whatever that cylindrical thing is that comes with it) would be too big to place it where he normally places them and as a result would have to make up a length of tubing and place it a little further away.
I bought my 3 gauge pod off e bay for £45. Getting the whole lot fitted end of the month.
Rick
I bought the set of three gauges from Xyber autos and was impressed by the prompt delivery (about 5 days), i then contacted AS performance in Birtley who is going to fit them for me and he was saying that the only problem that he could foresee was that the turbo boost "sender?" "reader?" (whatever that cylindrical thing is that comes with it) would be too big to place it where he normally places them and as a result would have to make up a length of tubing and place it a little further away.
I bought my 3 gauge pod off e bay for £45. Getting the whole lot fitted end of the month.
Rick
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From: Sheffield / North Wales
To those who've had broken pressure senders and poor earthing, what were your symtoms? Were they cured by earthing the sender/T piece, how did you manage to solder to either?!
Just been out for a blast in the peaks, and my jittery pressure sender has got worse. At times it flies randomly right from 0 to 7 and the needle hits the stops. Usually it jitters around whatever reading it's at, going up and down around it by about 1bar. I suspect I may have just put too much PTFE on the thread for the sender to make a decent connection to the T, or does it sound like a dodgy sender to anyone?
If I wet+dry a bit of the sender will that aid solder adhesion or will it just never take?
Just been out for a blast in the peaks, and my jittery pressure sender has got worse. At times it flies randomly right from 0 to 7 and the needle hits the stops. Usually it jitters around whatever reading it's at, going up and down around it by about 1bar. I suspect I may have just put too much PTFE on the thread for the sender to make a decent connection to the T, or does it sound like a dodgy sender to anyone?
If I wet+dry a bit of the sender will that aid solder adhesion or will it just never take?
First off has anyone had problems with grounding of the oil pressure sender units? I had to ground the actual bell dome type thingy onto the engine to get a decent result otherwise it would hit and stay at 100psi!!!
Also, is it meant to fluctuate, mine when warm seems to fluctuate between 40-48psi, but as soon as i accellerate shoots up to 100psi.
Sound normal?
Also, is it meant to fluctuate, mine when warm seems to fluctuate between 40-48psi, but as soon as i accellerate shoots up to 100psi.
Sound normal?