WRX-RA STi insurance write off to.....
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From: Being hunted down and killed one by one
Originally Posted by flat4
i think we can remove the theory that the clutch was contaminated with oil 


i hearby declare it fubar'd

nice collection of clutch material

it's only the flywheel side that's knackered, the other side isn't as bad, still worn out but not to the extent of having no material left whatsoever, luckily the flywheel hasn't been scored by the bare rivets



i hearby declare it fubar'd


nice collection of clutch material

it's only the flywheel side that's knackered, the other side isn't as bad, still worn out but not to the extent of having no material left whatsoever, luckily the flywheel hasn't been scored by the bare rivets

Kev are you going to be able to get a new one under warranty
Last edited by Wonder Wagon; Jun 21, 2005 at 11:33 PM.
Exact same thing happened to my 911 years ago. Clutch was about 1000 miles in to, and was a top quality Porsche OEM supplier. Happened directly after a blisteringly fast start and 3 gear changes in front of a packed crowd at a hill climb...Porsche reliability!
Several rivits sheared not worn. Cover plate was fine but i changed it anyway. That clutch is still in the car after 5 years or more, same make.
Least the flywheel is ok.
Kev: My friend has just bought his Smart for converting to hill climb racer spec
Graham.
Several rivits sheared not worn. Cover plate was fine but i changed it anyway. That clutch is still in the car after 5 years or more, same make.
Least the flywheel is ok.
Kev: My friend has just bought his Smart for converting to hill climb racer spec

Graham.
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
well, it probably wasn't that bad when it started slipping, probably killed it trying to cover 200 miles in the yorkshire moors....
well, new clutch is in, but i'm having problems
bad clutch judder, never had it before, probably the flywheel not being in the best of nick, huge vibration through the pedal which gets worse if (and i say, if) i try to engage a gear, it just won't go into gear, takes a huge amount of force to get it in, then when it does the bitting point is at the very bottom of the pedal (i have overfilled the gearbox again by an inch which i need to sort out before i drive it anywhere)
is this normal?
never had this with any other clutch i've fitted
well, new clutch is in, but i'm having problems
bad clutch judder, never had it before, probably the flywheel not being in the best of nick, huge vibration through the pedal which gets worse if (and i say, if) i try to engage a gear, it just won't go into gear, takes a huge amount of force to get it in, then when it does the bitting point is at the very bottom of the pedal (i have overfilled the gearbox again by an inch which i need to sort out before i drive it anywhere)is this normal?
never had this with any other clutch i've fitted
I had similar problems with my new clutch but without the judder.
However I had upgraded from 225mm to 230mm clutch. The flywheel had been skimmed to suit the new larger clutch.
My biting point was just too low, so tried bleeding the system again which hardly made a difference, then I stretched the spring in the slave cylinder, re-bleed the system. This made a slight improvement but found myself helping the clutch pedal back up with my foot from time to time.
Eventually I adjusted the the clutch pedal by one turn, this bought the biting point higher up. I had no more difficutly engaging gears or pedal stuck to the floor.
However I had upgraded from 225mm to 230mm clutch. The flywheel had been skimmed to suit the new larger clutch.
My biting point was just too low, so tried bleeding the system again which hardly made a difference, then I stretched the spring in the slave cylinder, re-bleed the system. This made a slight improvement but found myself helping the clutch pedal back up with my foot from time to time.
Eventually I adjusted the the clutch pedal by one turn, this bought the biting point higher up. I had no more difficutly engaging gears or pedal stuck to the floor.
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
yep, on my list of things to do tonite, clutch fluid level was well below the min. level
strange that the gearbox feels fine when the engine isn't running, second it is, i can't get gears easily
strange that the gearbox feels fine when the engine isn't running, second it is, i can't get gears easily
That is a good sign as it is the clutch only.
I do NOT mean to insult you Kev, but you did put the friction plate in the right side to the flywheel?
You did get the clutch release arm fork into the thrust bearing tabs and not hard against them?
I've changed a few clutches over my time and having these issues is not normal.
Graham.
I do NOT mean to insult you Kev, but you did put the friction plate in the right side to the flywheel?
You did get the clutch release arm fork into the thrust bearing tabs and not hard against them?
I've changed a few clutches over my time and having these issues is not normal.
Graham.
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
friction plate is as the top picture on this page (if this is wrong i will jump off a cliff
) release arm was located into the tabs just before the clutch housing closed up, i double checked but it's a pain to really tell apart from the feel of the clutch pedal which feels like it's releasing ok, i was just worried about how low the bitting point is on the pedal and if that has anything to do with it, gearbox has Esso top grade oil in it till i can get some redline, wondering if it's this to blame for the gear change (didn't think it would be affected tht badly to pootle around in
)
) release arm was located into the tabs just before the clutch housing closed up, i double checked but it's a pain to really tell apart from the feel of the clutch pedal which feels like it's releasing ok, i was just worried about how low the bitting point is on the pedal and if that has anything to do with it, gearbox has Esso top grade oil in it till i can get some redline, wondering if it's this to blame for the gear change (didn't think it would be affected tht badly to pootle around in
)
I have only known oil to be a real issue on my 911 box in very COLD weather where the viscosity was such that the gear could not be selected/changed without a hard shove on the lever.
Using the correct Porsche spec Shell oil was an instant cure. Still in the box to this day.
My AP organic friction plate had 'Flywheel side' stamped onto it, but on an impreza assy, I don't think you can actually assemble the cover over the plate due to the offset centre boss hitting the f/wheel.
Cannot think why you are having all this bloody grief.
Graham.
Using the correct Porsche spec Shell oil was an instant cure. Still in the box to this day.
My AP organic friction plate had 'Flywheel side' stamped onto it, but on an impreza assy, I don't think you can actually assemble the cover over the plate due to the offset centre boss hitting the f/wheel.
Cannot think why you are having all this bloody grief.

Graham.
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
it's a strange one, there was no sign of oil anywhere in the clutch housing or around the flywheel, anyway, sorted it, adjusted the pedal last night (had to extend the rod to it's limits to get the bitting point up and now i can get it into gear, vibration is still there but thats to be expected with the new clutch and old flywheel
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
drained the excess oil from the gearbox last night, so it was a smidge over the max mark this time
gearbox feels better than before now
gearbox feels better than before now
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
also fitted the anti-roll bars & solid rear drop links last night, piece of **** if it wasn't for me putting the front one on wrong on the first attempt
had a quick blast in it but nothing to draw any conclusions from just yet, did feel alot more planted around corners with no noticeable understeer for saying i put the front bar on aswell
clutch pedal still vibrates a bit but it's not worrying me too much, 1,000 miles later then i might have a rethink
had a quick blast in it but nothing to draw any conclusions from just yet, did feel alot more planted around corners with no noticeable understeer for saying i put the front bar on aswellclutch pedal still vibrates a bit but it's not worrying me too much, 1,000 miles later then i might have a rethink
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
well, popped round to my mates to do some tiling last night, still some vibration through the pedal, couple of mins into my drive and the clutch pedals goes to the floor, flip it back up and now the vibration has dissapeared and the biting point has come right up
not complaining like, just need to adjust the pedal back again
not complaining like, just need to adjust the pedal back again
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From: 2010 Time Attack Club Pro Champion - Powered by ScoobyClinic
odd, because i completely bleed the system, doesn't explain why the vibration just dissapeared though
think i'll just leave it alone now
got the back end nicely stepping out on the way back last night in the pouring rain, that'll be the stiffer ARBs then
think i'll just leave it alone now
got the back end nicely stepping out on the way back last night in the pouring rain, that'll be the stiffer ARBs then Scooby Regular
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From: Fastest 4 Clyinder Manual impreza 8.83 1/4 mile GT35 Billet
Originally Posted by DaveD
Kev, good to see everything is getting sorted 
Shame you can't make it to Wales this year
Won't be the same with all your 'tales' round the camp fire 
Shame you can't make it to Wales this year
Won't be the same with all your 'tales' round the camp fire 
Originally Posted by mikeesingh
Dave, dont think kevs car will make it to wales 

I recall last year that he hadn't travelled too far down the A50 before he started pulling bits off to cure some overheating problems!

One day Kev will have a reliable car
Just to prove we made it to Snowdonia (via a minor detour of around 20 miles
)
)
Last edited by DaveD; Jul 4, 2005 at 11:21 PM. Reason: Just to make a note that the Megane WASN'T part of the group!
Great thread, a fantastic distraction from the stream of unpleasant news in C London. It makes me want to learn how to pick up some tools and actually understand what lies beneath the bonnet!
- Jon
- Jon
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
I think if it were my car I would have to spray it white, but only because it would attract too much attention where I park / drive..
but looks wise I quite like it..
Simon
but looks wise I quite like it..
Simon


