HYBRID FMIC FITTING
#91
Originally Posted by scoootie5
It does take time but worth it afterwards, just remember everyone will see the bumper so it has to be neat.
Scott
Oh by the way I have a MY94 ..
Scott
Oh by the way I have a MY94 ..
It's really daunting to start with but once you get going, it's not too bad. Without being funny, you want a straight edge against the i/c rather than following the contour of the bumper, like I started to do. Get a straight piece of something that fits into the grille opening to mark a straight line.
Gerry
#92
Originally Posted by scoootie5
Maybe not on your year anyway, but on the early cars you have to cut the innerwing (make the hole bigger), the plastic strip covers the inner line of the cut hole so it covers any nastyness made when cutting. Looks neat now compared to the squew-wiff cutting by my cackhandedness.
Scott
Scott
Gerry
#93
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Could you not line the edge of the bumper/splitter - e.g. small rubber pipe split down one side - rather like the edge piece you describe ? - It would look like a seal between the bumper and the bottom edge of the I/C ..
hmm - Really need to get one of these now I'm confident (yeah, right !) about fitting.. Not sure whether to wait for next GB or go for Judge's slightly more expensive, but already in UK ......
Mark
hmm - Really need to get one of these now I'm confident (yeah, right !) about fitting.. Not sure whether to wait for next GB or go for Judge's slightly more expensive, but already in UK ......
Mark
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AND... I notice that no-one has lagged the return pipe from the I/C - Is it worth doing to stop the underbonnet temp re-heating the returning air ?
Has anyone fitted a 'heat wall' to box off their induction kit ?
Ta
Mark
Has anyone fitted a 'heat wall' to box off their induction kit ?
Ta
Mark
#98
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Mark,
I don't use a DV at all, but the std MY98 unit will fit, even the std TMIC->DV pipe will go onto the FMIC pipework at a push.
So far I have not had a need to insulate the return pipe, it is routed through the 'cold' side of the engine bay and I haven't noticed any real heatsoak issues, in fact the last section of pipework to the throttle body gets a nice shot of cooling air from the bonnet scoop.
Andrew...
I don't use a DV at all, but the std MY98 unit will fit, even the std TMIC->DV pipe will go onto the FMIC pipework at a push.
So far I have not had a need to insulate the return pipe, it is routed through the 'cold' side of the engine bay and I haven't noticed any real heatsoak issues, in fact the last section of pipework to the throttle body gets a nice shot of cooling air from the bonnet scoop.
Andrew...
#99
Andrew,
Have you built up a cold air box yet? I was thinking of making one, but wanted to chat with someone who has had first hand experience.
Would you mind if i called you at some point, i'll leave a message with your secretary if you are out LOL.
Cheers
Iain
PS. I have found that with the FMIC, when 'comitted' there is a slight pause on gear change, before she surges off again - but i guess this is just the FMIC getting filled up again. Still only on 17psi.......
Have you built up a cold air box yet? I was thinking of making one, but wanted to chat with someone who has had first hand experience.
Would you mind if i called you at some point, i'll leave a message with your secretary if you are out LOL.
Cheers
Iain
PS. I have found that with the FMIC, when 'comitted' there is a slight pause on gear change, before she surges off again - but i guess this is just the FMIC getting filled up again. Still only on 17psi.......
#101
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Iain, that is turbo lag, I have noticed it occasionally if I don't change gear quick enough!
I haven't built an airbox yet, but interestingly I had my head under the bonnet last night looking at it
By all means give me a ring.
Andrew...
I haven't built an airbox yet, but interestingly I had my head under the bonnet last night looking at it
By all means give me a ring.
Andrew...
#104
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Hi everyone,
a couple of pics of my MY98 with the Hybrid FMIC installed.
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_3.jpg
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_2.jpg
I saw some posts regarding the number plate. I'm still not happy with having the plate in the middle, have to move it.... somewhere...
a couple of pics of my MY98 with the Hybrid FMIC installed.
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_3.jpg
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_2.jpg
I saw some posts regarding the number plate. I'm still not happy with having the plate in the middle, have to move it.... somewhere...
#105
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Originally Posted by Miki
Hi everyone,
a couple of pics of my MY98 with the Hybrid FMIC installed.
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_3.jpg
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_2.jpg
I saw some posts regarding the number plate. I'm still not happy with having the plate in the middle, have to move it.... somewhere...
a couple of pics of my MY98 with the Hybrid FMIC installed.
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_3.jpg
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_2.jpg
I saw some posts regarding the number plate. I'm still not happy with having the plate in the middle, have to move it.... somewhere...
#106
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I already have an illegal plate as it is, it's too small....
One idea would of course be to mount it on the frontlip, angled so that it directs air to the cooler, but there's not that much room to play with...
One idea would of course be to mount it on the frontlip, angled so that it directs air to the cooler, but there's not that much room to play with...
#109
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OK _ Intercooler fitted - Though my driving lamps are still off and I've had to cable tie the number plate to the splitter for now ....
The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....
The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -
Anyone had similar ?
It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?
Thanks,
Mark
The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....
The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -
Anyone had similar ?
It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?
Thanks,
Mark
#110
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Originally Posted by markwild
OK _ Intercooler fitted - Though my driving lamps are still off and I've had to cable tie the number plate to the splitter for now ....
The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....
The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -
Anyone had similar ?
It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?
Thanks,
Mark
The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....
The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -
Anyone had similar ?
It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?
Thanks,
Mark
Or maybe I'm just talking bollox and that isn't the reason atall.
I'll post pics of my installation later.
#111
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Oddly - thats what I put it down to also... I'm pretty sure its that, as it feels the same as it did on my rally mini, when I replaced the rubber engine stabilisers with solid steel ones, to prevent engine movement.
Cheers,
Mark
Cheers,
Mark
#112
Originally Posted by markwild
The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....
The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -
Anyone had similar ?
It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?
Thanks,
Mark
As for vibration, I haven't noticed any and would check that the pipes aren't hard together under the silicone joiners. I'd have thought that the silicone would take out any engine vibration before it got to the i/c.
Gerry
#114
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On closer exam, I can't find any clips loose and I don't get any warning lights -
I'm pretty sure the vibration is only present when the revs drop too low. - Its primarily as the fans on the rad kick in, then the ECU compensates and its OK again - it doesn't actually stall if you leave it so maybe I can live with it...
Also, I was told on Saturday morning (at my service at TSL) that the up-pipe is leaking, so maybe this is giving a slightly dogdy idle (?)....
My main concerns at the mo are:
1) getting the PIAA driving lamps back on
2) re-locating the number plate
3) tidy up the front bumper cutting
4) fix the up-pipe
5) do something about the amount of hot-air under the bonner - the induction kit is breathing it all in !
On the plus side, the car seems to pull more strongly at low revs (oddly) and the mid-range is MUCH better - also, it doesn't seem to run out of puff at high revs...
so good all round really !
I'm a bit confused about boost pressure so I'm going to do a sep. post about it...
Mark
I'm pretty sure the vibration is only present when the revs drop too low. - Its primarily as the fans on the rad kick in, then the ECU compensates and its OK again - it doesn't actually stall if you leave it so maybe I can live with it...
Also, I was told on Saturday morning (at my service at TSL) that the up-pipe is leaking, so maybe this is giving a slightly dogdy idle (?)....
My main concerns at the mo are:
1) getting the PIAA driving lamps back on
2) re-locating the number plate
3) tidy up the front bumper cutting
4) fix the up-pipe
5) do something about the amount of hot-air under the bonner - the induction kit is breathing it all in !
On the plus side, the car seems to pull more strongly at low revs (oddly) and the mid-range is MUCH better - also, it doesn't seem to run out of puff at high revs...
so good all round really !
I'm a bit confused about boost pressure so I'm going to do a sep. post about it...
Mark
#115
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OK here's the pics. It wasn't too bad a job to do, cutting the bumper was the worst part.
Front of the car taken off:
Intercooler fitted to bumper cross-member:
Pipework fitted:
Finished:
I have since re-fitted the driving lamps.
Just got to have the Power FC mapped on thursday by Andy F and she's all ready
Front of the car taken off:
Intercooler fitted to bumper cross-member:
Pipework fitted:
Finished:
I have since re-fitted the driving lamps.
Just got to have the Power FC mapped on thursday by Andy F and she's all ready
#116
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Re: Airboxes
Something like this help give you an idea on boxing the filter?
The side panel of the box runs up by the inner wing to being level with the brake master cylinder against the inner wing to minimise any warm air circulating *back* round into the filter area.
The rubber seal on the bonnet has been removed above the headlamp and the box as you can see has a raised lip with a seal which presses on to the bonnet when it's closed. This allows cold air to travel between the headlamp and bonnet and go straight in to the air filter.
I still have the hole in the inner wing also supplying cool air to the filter.
At the back of the box, it is sealed against the strut tower, again to stop hot air trying to get in at this area.
Has it helped? In this instance yes. Downside is keeping the underbonnet clean is an issue now cause the seal has been removed from the bonnet above the headlamp. At the end of a drive, if you open the bonnet, you can see dust everywhere!!
Alan
The side panel of the box runs up by the inner wing to being level with the brake master cylinder against the inner wing to minimise any warm air circulating *back* round into the filter area.
The rubber seal on the bonnet has been removed above the headlamp and the box as you can see has a raised lip with a seal which presses on to the bonnet when it's closed. This allows cold air to travel between the headlamp and bonnet and go straight in to the air filter.
I still have the hole in the inner wing also supplying cool air to the filter.
At the back of the box, it is sealed against the strut tower, again to stop hot air trying to get in at this area.
Has it helped? In this instance yes. Downside is keeping the underbonnet clean is an issue now cause the seal has been removed from the bonnet above the headlamp. At the end of a drive, if you open the bonnet, you can see dust everywhere!!
Alan
Last edited by AlanG; 18 May 2004 at 03:03 PM.
#117
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Drexel,
Thanks for the pics mate - I didn't join the two holes in the O/S wing - just enlarged the front one slightly
Also, MOST pleased to see that you've had to cut the bumper around the bottom of the O/S driving lamp position - thought it was just me !
The vertical pipe between the radiator cowling and engine front touches the cowling on mine, did you have any probs ? Also, I think that the N/S pipe (the one with the DV on it) is touching the underside of the bonnet, so I think I may need to loosen it and try to push it down a bit further at the front...
Ta,
Mark
PS _ Why did you need the red Samco hose ?
Thanks for the pics mate - I didn't join the two holes in the O/S wing - just enlarged the front one slightly
Also, MOST pleased to see that you've had to cut the bumper around the bottom of the O/S driving lamp position - thought it was just me !
The vertical pipe between the radiator cowling and engine front touches the cowling on mine, did you have any probs ? Also, I think that the N/S pipe (the one with the DV on it) is touching the underside of the bonnet, so I think I may need to loosen it and try to push it down a bit further at the front...
Ta,
Mark
PS _ Why did you need the red Samco hose ?
#119
AlanG. V Nice Job.
Have you thought of knocking these out, using yours as a template, I have looked at this many times, (when Bored) & then found im not bored enough. Im sure there would be many takers, .
Can i be the first on your supply list
Dean
Have you thought of knocking these out, using yours as a template, I have looked at this many times, (when Bored) & then found im not bored enough. Im sure there would be many takers, .
Can i be the first on your supply list
Dean