That's why I went for the mesh Lost patience a bit in the end and the fibre glass splitter was getting a ragged edge. Scott and others have made a really neat job of their's. If you can get someone to give you a hand to offer the bumper up each time, it really helps. They can hold it in place while you crawl underneath to pencil mark the next cuts.

It's really daunting to start with but once you get going, it's not too bad. Without being funny, you want a straight edge against the i/c rather than following the contour of the bumper, like I started to do. Get a straight piece of something that fits into the grille opening to mark a straight line.

Gerry

 

That's interesting. I didn't get any plastic with mine, I ended up splitting a piece of spare fuel hose to prevent the pipe touching the cut hole. I agree about the squew-wiff cutting though, it's difficult to make a neat job of that hole.

Gerry

 

Could you not line the edge of the bumper/splitter - e.g. small rubber pipe split down one side - rather like the edge piece you describe ? - It would look like a seal between the bumper and the bottom edge of the I/C ..

hmm - Really need to get one of these now I'm confident (yeah, right !) about fitting.. Not sure whether to wait for next GB or go for Judge's slightly more expensive, but already in UK ......

Mark

 

Guys - what was the final 'to the door' price on these I/Cs ? - PM me if you prefer...

Thanks,

Mark

 

YHPM Mark

 

Back again

You chaps with 98s, are you still running the standard D/V ?

Ta,

Mark

 

AND... I notice that no-one has lagged the return pipe from the I/C - Is it worth doing to stop the underbonnet temp re-heating the returning air ?

Has anyone fitted a 'heat wall' to box off their induction kit ?

Ta

Mark

 

Mark,

I don't use a DV at all, but the std MY98 unit will fit, even the std TMIC->DV pipe will go onto the FMIC pipework at a push.

So far I have not had a need to insulate the return pipe, it is routed through the 'cold' side of the engine bay and I haven't noticed any real heatsoak issues, in fact the last section of pipework to the throttle body gets a nice shot of cooling air from the bonnet scoop.

Andrew...

 

Andrew,

Have you built up a cold air box yet? I was thinking of making one, but wanted to chat with someone who has had first hand experience.

Would you mind if i called you at some point, i'll leave a message with your secretary if you are out LOL.

Cheers



Iain

PS. I have found that with the FMIC, when 'comitted' there is a slight pause on gear change, before she surges off again - but i guess this is just the FMIC getting filled up again. Still only on 17psi.......

 

Thanks Andrew...

Mark

 

Iain, that is turbo lag, I have noticed it occasionally if I don't change gear quick enough!

I haven't built an airbox yet, but interestingly I had my head under the bonnet last night looking at it

By all means give me a ring.

Andrew...

 

Cheers Andrew

I will give you a call soon, still on the same number?

Regards


Iain

 

I'd be interested in the air box too - I assume its to surround the air filter ?

Mark

 

Hi everyone,

a couple of pics of my MY98 with the Hybrid FMIC installed.

http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_3.jpg
http://www.subaruclubfinland.net/kuv...mpreza98_2.jpg

I saw some posts regarding the number plate. I'm still not happy with having the plate in the middle, have to move it.... somewhere...

 

Looks great, I'm going to fit mine this weekend, I'm not even going to bother with a front number plate. I'll just keep it in the car - 'it just fell off officer.........'

 

I already have an illegal plate as it is, it's too small....
One idea would of course be to mount it on the frontlip, angled so that it directs air to the cooler, but there's not that much room to play with...

 

Ideally you could mount it on a hinge so when travelling along at speed it would fold up and when stationary it would be in the usual position.

Mark

 

Think I'll find the legal requirements for the number plate for the UK and go from there....
Mark

PS _ Mine came today (the IC)...

 

OK _ Intercooler fitted - Though my driving lamps are still off and I've had to cable tie the number plate to the splitter for now ....

The car seems to run OK, AFR showing OK and KL all quiet - but....

The tickover (once the car is warm) seems a little low - maybe even lumpy- this feels worse because there is a slight vibration in the car on tickover - but this might be because it's ticking over a bit slow though -

Anyone had similar ?

It doesn't actually stop and according to the tacho its exactly at 750 rpm - the ECU is still compensating for lights, rear screen heater etc, so I'm assuming that all is OK with the self-adjust system... Could be just the greater IC/pipework volume ?

Thanks,

Mark

 

Fitted mine yesterday and I've noticed more vibration on tickover also. I've put it down to the Pipework transmitting vibrations from the engine, through the to the I/C, which obviously being bolted to the car is trasmitting the vibrations through the whole car.

Or maybe I'm just talking bollox and that isn't the reason atall.

I'll post pics of my installation later.

 

Oddly - thats what I put it down to also... I'm pretty sure its that, as it feels the same as it did on my rally mini, when I replaced the rubber engine stabilisers with solid steel ones, to prevent engine movement.

Cheers,

Mark

 

I had a lumpy tick over when I first started the engine after fitting the I/C. Then found that one of the hose clamps wasn't tightened properly and the MAF plug hadn't quite clicked into place on the socket (which also lit up the CEL). Once they were secured it was fine.

As for vibration, I haven't noticed any and would check that the pipes aren't hard together under the silicone joiners. I'd have thought that the silicone would take out any engine vibration before it got to the i/c.

Gerry

 

If anything I think mines much quieter, I sure having a great big TMIC must cause some extra vibration due to it resonating.

Mark

 

On closer exam, I can't find any clips loose and I don't get any warning lights -

I'm pretty sure the vibration is only present when the revs drop too low. - Its primarily as the fans on the rad kick in, then the ECU compensates and its OK again - it doesn't actually stall if you leave it so maybe I can live with it...

Also, I was told on Saturday morning (at my service at TSL) that the up-pipe is leaking, so maybe this is giving a slightly dogdy idle (?)....

My main concerns at the mo are:

1) getting the PIAA driving lamps back on
2) re-locating the number plate
3) tidy up the front bumper cutting
4) fix the up-pipe
5) do something about the amount of hot-air under the bonner - the induction kit is breathing it all in !

On the plus side, the car seems to pull more strongly at low revs (oddly) and the mid-range is MUCH better - also, it doesn't seem to run out of puff at high revs...

so good all round really !

I'm a bit confused about boost pressure so I'm going to do a sep. post about it...

Mark

 

OK here's the pics. It wasn't too bad a job to do, cutting the bumper was the worst part.

Front of the car taken off:



Intercooler fitted to bumper cross-member:



Pipework fitted:







Finished:




I have since re-fitted the driving lamps.

Just got to have the Power FC mapped on thursday by Andy F and she's all ready

 

Something like this help give you an idea on boxing the filter?
The side panel of the box runs up by the inner wing to being level with the brake master cylinder against the inner wing to minimise any warm air circulating *back* round into the filter area.
The rubber seal on the bonnet has been removed above the headlamp and the box as you can see has a raised lip with a seal which presses on to the bonnet when it's closed. This allows cold air to travel between the headlamp and bonnet and go straight in to the air filter.
I still have the hole in the inner wing also supplying cool air to the filter.
At the back of the box, it is sealed against the strut tower, again to stop hot air trying to get in at this area.

Has it helped? In this instance yes. Downside is keeping the underbonnet clean is an issue now cause the seal has been removed from the bonnet above the headlamp. At the end of a drive, if you open the bonnet, you can see dust everywhere!!





Alan

 

Drexel,



Thanks for the pics mate - I didn't join the two holes in the O/S wing - just enlarged the front one slightly

Also, MOST pleased to see that you've had to cut the bumper around the bottom of the O/S driving lamp position - thought it was just me !

The vertical pipe between the radiator cowling and engine front touches the cowling on mine, did you have any probs ? Also, I think that the N/S pipe (the one with the DV on it) is touching the underside of the bonnet, so I think I may need to loosen it and try to push it down a bit further at the front...

Ta,

Mark

PS _ Why did you need the red Samco hose ?

 

Alan - I can only think of 1 word - WOW !

Don't think my efforts will be worthy in comparison.....

 

AlanG. V Nice Job.

Have you thought of knocking these out, using yours as a template, I have looked at this many times, (when Bored) & then found im not bored enough. Im sure there would be many takers, .
Can i be the first on your supply list

Dean

 

Funny that, me too