HYBRID FMIC FITTING
19 April 2004, 07:06 PM
#62
Started mine this evening and spent a couple of hours wrestling with the bumper and have now come to a halt.
I have all? the poppers and bolts out except for the two, whatever they are, holding the number plate bracket. They look like tork bolts with captive nuts behind. The only problem is that there's a central pin, or so it looks like, in the torx recess so a normal torx key won't go in, the other end of the screw feels hollow.
This is a really good start as I haven't a clue how to get these out, short of mutilating either the bracket or the bumper.
Any suggestions please?
I have all? the poppers and bolts out except for the two, whatever they are, holding the number plate bracket. They look like tork bolts with captive nuts behind. The only problem is that there's a central pin, or so it looks like, in the torx recess so a normal torx key won't go in, the other end of the screw feels hollow.
This is a really good start as I haven't a clue how to get these out, short of mutilating either the bracket or the bumper.
Any suggestions please?
19 April 2004, 07:46 PM
#64
I know the feeling but, as I bought another bumper to butcher, I was hoping to keep this one in one piece. Wrecking this one could be the only way out at the moment though. Having said that, there must be some way to shift the screws. Is there such a thing as hollow torx wrenches?
19 April 2004, 08:07 PM
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20 April 2004, 01:13 PM
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The screws are security torx they are commonly available.
I stuck my plate to the bumper (now changed to a 3/4 size plate)
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town.../front_far.jpg
Andrew...
I stuck my plate to the bumper (now changed to a 3/4 size plate)
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town.../front_far.jpg
Andrew...
22 April 2004, 06:45 PM
#70
Have the FMIC in place after having a good day and not being rained off 
The pipework turned out to be easier than anticipated and the lower delivery pipe, that sits in the n/s wing almost fell in once I removed the piece between the two holes in the inner wing.
There's an HKS RS induction kit. that was on the car when I bought it, I've had the mushroom off a couple of times to clean the filter but never had need to remove the whole thing, till now.
Good job it was in the way. When I looked at the underside, I found it had been touching the square corner of the ABS block which had worn a pin hole through the ali casting of the pipe section. Managed to find someone locally who welded it over.
So this has potentially saved my engine as, had it gone undiscovered for much longer, it would have caused lean running being downstream of the MAF.
Now to fit the bumper back
The bumper's proving to be the most difficult part of the job. Anyone got any pix of just their finished bumper after chopping it about?
The pipework turned out to be easier than anticipated and the lower delivery pipe, that sits in the n/s wing almost fell in once I removed the piece between the two holes in the inner wing.
There's an HKS RS induction kit. that was on the car when I bought it, I've had the mushroom off a couple of times to clean the filter but never had need to remove the whole thing, till now.
Good job it was in the way. When I looked at the underside, I found it had been touching the square corner of the ABS block which had worn a pin hole through the ali casting of the pipe section. Managed to find someone locally who welded it over.
So this has potentially saved my engine as, had it gone undiscovered for much longer, it would have caused lean running being downstream of the MAF.
Now to fit the bumper back
The bumper's proving to be the most difficult part of the job. Anyone got any pix of just their finished bumper after chopping it about?
23 April 2004, 06:38 PM
#71
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Depends on what bumper you have but I had a seperate section behind my bumper which was black and cut off all the black part and a bit more.
You are not left with much bumper afterwards.
I can email you some closeups if you like but I did forget to take pics before fitting.
Scott
You are not left with much bumper afterwards.
I can email you some closeups if you like but I did forget to take pics before fitting.
Scott
23 April 2004, 06:50 PM
#72
Hi Scott,
Thanks for your help. I have STi3 bumper and been at it again today, nearly there but the rear of the n/s driving light is now fouling the i/c pipe. Like you say, there's not too much bumper left now.
Any pics would be helpful, please mail
gerry.houghton@virgin.net
Many thanks
Thanks for your help. I have STi3 bumper and been at it again today, nearly there but the rear of the n/s driving light is now fouling the i/c pipe. Like you say, there's not too much bumper left now.
Any pics would be helpful, please mail
gerry.houghton@virgin.net
Many thanks
24 April 2004, 02:08 AM
#74
Hi Scott,
Many thanks for the mail. Although mine's a slightly later model, they're a great help. Just hope I can make as neat a job as the rest of you.
Cheers
Gerry
Many thanks for the mail. Although mine's a slightly later model, they're a great help. Just hope I can make as neat a job as the rest of you.
Cheers
Gerry
25 April 2004, 04:20 PM
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Anybody fitted one of these to an MY99? I have just taken delivery of one adn have a wee problem with the dump valve. As you know the MY99 dumpvalve fits straight onto the intercooler hence no rubber hosing going into it.I have an HKS SSQV with fitting kit for MY99 which has a hose going to it from the IC side but it is considerably thinner than the DV outlet from the Hybrid piping!
Help!
Help!
27 April 2004, 03:09 PM
#76
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I think the outlet from the intercooler pipework for the dump valve is around 37mm and my dumpvalve inlet is around 30mm. Ive beentold that with plenty of hot water and some elbow grease that the hosing should fit.
29 April 2004, 07:33 PM
#78
Actually managed to complete mine on Tuesday in the last of the fine weather, even changed all the oils as well just to round it off.
Start to finish took a week, on and off but in real terms a good 2 days work. The worst part was the bumper, cutting, offering up, cutting, etc. The actual intercooler and pipe work installation was a doddle and could have been designed round the MY97. No need to remove or slacken the wings and minor cutting. Driving lamps are retained too.
Inner wing on off side; joined the two large holes, as the pipe sat between them. Cut the lower part of the driving light surround to accomodate the I/C connections. and the rest of the mods were with a nylon hammer to just move a couple of things a bit
I found that the silicone connectors were very tight to move on the pipes and where the turbo - I/C pipes connect, at the inner wing, I had to push the connector all the way onto one pipe and then, when the other pipe was positioned, slide the connector mid way over the two. This was bloody difficult dry, so used some dilute washing up liquid as a lubricat and that made the job dead easy.
My HKS RS induction kit needed relocating int the corner of the front turret so have fitted a mini scoop from ETS and removed the lower back to try and direct some air flow to the mushroom.
I've fitted Aluminium 'racing' mesh (must be good for another 10 bhp) to the front of the bumper opening in an attempt to prevent stone damage to the fins. I've lost the position for the laser jammer modules that were on either side of the number plate position and have now stuck them under the bumper using silicone RTV adhesive which has worked well and was tested yesterday courtesy of the local camera van
Had some luck with the Dump valve sizing. Managed to find a local accessory shop with a bin full of old hoses, which they let me rummage through. I found two with reduced ends that suited my needs exactly, just chopped off the required lengths and it all went together nicely.
Today, I tried the car on a longish motorway run. Weather was cool and wet. I was quite surprised at the mid range power increase and I'm getting the 'cha cha' as described earlier in a couple of posts. Pick up from 3K revs is very good and no noticable lag. Prior to this I/C, I could get the Knocklink lit up, almost at will between 4 - 5K, but today, nothing, not even the first green, other than the power indicator. Also, if you open the bonnet after a run, with the engine idling, holding the two pipes, one at the turbo outlet and the other at throttle body inlet, the temperature difference is very noticable.
I'll attempt to post some pix in a couple of days.
Hope this helps someone although you've probably all finished yours by now.
Start to finish took a week, on and off but in real terms a good 2 days work. The worst part was the bumper, cutting, offering up, cutting, etc. The actual intercooler and pipe work installation was a doddle and could have been designed round the MY97. No need to remove or slacken the wings and minor cutting. Driving lamps are retained too.
Inner wing on off side; joined the two large holes, as the pipe sat between them. Cut the lower part of the driving light surround to accomodate the I/C connections. and the rest of the mods were with a nylon hammer to just move a couple of things a bit
I found that the silicone connectors were very tight to move on the pipes and where the turbo - I/C pipes connect, at the inner wing, I had to push the connector all the way onto one pipe and then, when the other pipe was positioned, slide the connector mid way over the two. This was bloody difficult dry, so used some dilute washing up liquid as a lubricat and that made the job dead easy.
My HKS RS induction kit needed relocating int the corner of the front turret so have fitted a mini scoop from ETS and removed the lower back to try and direct some air flow to the mushroom.
I've fitted Aluminium 'racing' mesh (must be good for another 10 bhp)
to the front of the bumper opening in an attempt to prevent stone damage to the fins. I've lost the position for the laser jammer modules that were on either side of the number plate position and have now stuck them under the bumper using silicone RTV adhesive which has worked well and was tested yesterday courtesy of the local camera van Had some luck with the Dump valve sizing. Managed to find a local accessory shop with a bin full of old hoses, which they let me rummage through. I found two with reduced ends that suited my needs exactly, just chopped off the required lengths and it all went together nicely.
Today, I tried the car on a longish motorway run. Weather was cool and wet. I was quite surprised at the mid range power increase and I'm getting the 'cha cha' as described earlier in a couple of posts. Pick up from 3K revs is very good and no noticable lag. Prior to this I/C, I could get the Knocklink lit up, almost at will between 4 - 5K, but today, nothing, not even the first green, other than the power indicator
. Also, if you open the bonnet after a run, with the engine idling, holding the two pipes, one at the turbo outlet and the other at throttle body inlet, the temperature difference is very noticable.I'll attempt to post some pix in a couple of days.
Hope this helps someone although you've probably all finished yours by now.
Last edited by Houghton; 29 April 2004 at 07:43 PM.
29 April 2004, 07:42 PM
#79
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Originally Posted by Houghton
Actually managed to complete mine on Tuesday in the last of the fine weather, even changed all the oils as well just to round it off.
Start to finish took a week, on and off but in real terms a good 2 days work. The worst part was the bumper, cutting, offering up, cutting, etc. The actual intercooler and pipe work installation was a doddle and could have been designed round the MY97. No need to remove or slacken the wings and minor cutting. Driving lamps are retained too.
Inner wing on off side; joined the two large holes, as the pipe sat between them. Cut the lower part of the driving light surround to accomodate the I/C connections. and the rest of the mods were with a nylon hammer to just move a couple of things a bit
I found that the silicone connectors were very tight to move on the pipes and where the turbo - I/C pipes connect, at the inner wing, I had to push the connector all the way onto one pipe and then, when the other pipe was positioned, slide the connector mid way over the two. This was bloody difficult dry, so used some dilute washing up liquid as a lubricat and that made the job dead easy.
My HKS RS induction kit needed relocating int the corner of the front turret so have fitted a mini scoop from ETS and removed the lower back to try and direct some air flow to the mushroom.
I've fitted Aluminium 'racing' mesh (must be good for another 10 bhp) to the front of the bumper opening in an attempt to prevent stone damage to the fins. I've lost the position for the laser jammer modules that were on either side of the number plate position and have now stuck them under the bumper using silicone RTV adhesive which has worked well and was tested yesterday courtesy of the local camera van
Had some luck with the Dump valve sizing. Managed to find a local accessory shop with a bin full of old hoses, which they let me rummage through. I found two with reduced ends that suited my needs exactly, just chopped off the required lengths and it all went together nicely.
Today, I tried the car on a longish motorway run. Weather was cool and wet. I was quite surprised at the mid range power increase and I'm getting the 'cha cha' as described earlier in a couple of posts. Pick up from 3K revs is very good and no noticable lag. Prior to this I/C, I could get the Knocklink lit up, almost at will between 4 - 5K, but today, nothing, not even the first green, other than the power indicator.
I'll attempt to post some pix in a couple of days.
Hope this helps someone although you've probably all finished yours by now.
Start to finish took a week, on and off but in real terms a good 2 days work. The worst part was the bumper, cutting, offering up, cutting, etc. The actual intercooler and pipe work installation was a doddle and could have been designed round the MY97. No need to remove or slacken the wings and minor cutting. Driving lamps are retained too.
Inner wing on off side; joined the two large holes, as the pipe sat between them. Cut the lower part of the driving light surround to accomodate the I/C connections. and the rest of the mods were with a nylon hammer to just move a couple of things a bit
I found that the silicone connectors were very tight to move on the pipes and where the turbo - I/C pipes connect, at the inner wing, I had to push the connector all the way onto one pipe and then, when the other pipe was positioned, slide the connector mid way over the two. This was bloody difficult dry, so used some dilute washing up liquid as a lubricat and that made the job dead easy.
My HKS RS induction kit needed relocating int the corner of the front turret so have fitted a mini scoop from ETS and removed the lower back to try and direct some air flow to the mushroom.
I've fitted Aluminium 'racing' mesh (must be good for another 10 bhp)
to the front of the bumper opening in an attempt to prevent stone damage to the fins. I've lost the position for the laser jammer modules that were on either side of the number plate position and have now stuck them under the bumper using silicone RTV adhesive which has worked well and was tested yesterday courtesy of the local camera van Had some luck with the Dump valve sizing. Managed to find a local accessory shop with a bin full of old hoses, which they let me rummage through. I found two with reduced ends that suited my needs exactly, just chopped off the required lengths and it all went together nicely.
Today, I tried the car on a longish motorway run. Weather was cool and wet. I was quite surprised at the mid range power increase and I'm getting the 'cha cha' as described earlier in a couple of posts. Pick up from 3K revs is very good and no noticable lag. Prior to this I/C, I could get the Knocklink lit up, almost at will between 4 - 5K, but today, nothing, not even the first green, other than the power indicator
.I'll attempt to post some pix in a couple of days.
Hope this helps someone although you've probably all finished yours by now.
30 April 2004, 09:14 PM
#80
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Sounds good, I did mine in 2 days flat out and agree the most time was taken cutting the bumper.
I also have a Induction kit (blitz) and a mini scoop, and it only JUST fits under the bonnet as the intercooler pipework is pushing the air filter up into my scoop.
I will relocate the air filter further towards the front of the car because when it rains it won't be good getting water in the engine.
I did find that "Wickes" supply sheet mesh for 4quid and looks ok for a protector
Houghton: Did your pipework fit straight or did the pipe only just meet with the help of the silicon connectors? Mine seemed to be at an angle and not straight together.
Scott
I also have a Induction kit (blitz) and a mini scoop, and it only JUST fits under the bonnet as the intercooler pipework is pushing the air filter up into my scoop.
I will relocate the air filter further towards the front of the car because when it rains it won't be good getting water in the engine.
I did find that "Wickes" supply sheet mesh for 4quid and looks ok for a protector
Houghton: Did your pipework fit straight or did the pipe only just meet with the help of the silicon connectors? Mine seemed to be at an angle and not straight together.
Scott
03 May 2004, 03:05 PM
#81
Hi Scott, Sorry for the delay in replying but been away for the w/e.
The pipework on mine was almost touching under the connectors and aligned very well once the hole in the inner wing was cut big enough. That's why I needed the soapy water. I'll get some pix asap. With the HKS filter I was able to 'twist' it's pipe section so it was away from the i/c pipe work.
On the subject of the 'cha cha' from the dump valve, I have a Forge recirc valve, how do I reduce the spring tension to stop this? Any suggestions please?
Gerry
The pipework on mine was almost touching under the connectors and aligned very well once the hole in the inner wing was cut big enough. That's why I needed the soapy water. I'll get some pix asap. With the HKS filter I was able to 'twist' it's pipe section so it was away from the i/c pipe work.
On the subject of the 'cha cha' from the dump valve, I have a Forge recirc valve, how do I reduce the spring tension to stop this? Any suggestions please?
Gerry
03 May 2004, 06:38 PM
#82
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Scott - Is that a P1 replica lip from DR Motorsport ? > did you have to cut it at all ?
Houghton - great post for the 97 - Mines a 98 so I'd figure it'd be pretty similar
Cheers,
Mark
Houghton - great post for the 97 - Mines a 98 so I'd figure it'd be pretty similar
Cheers,
Mark
04 May 2004, 06:53 PM
#83
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Andrew C / Houghton, did you need to make the modification that del2 had to make to the pipework (i.e. his a/b/c cuts ?)
Also, do the bottom brackets line up with the captive nuts that usually hold the undertray on (mine are sheared, so I'll need to drill and tap)
Finally (for now ), did the plastic inner wing shields fit back on, (if so, did they require cutting ?) along with the brake ducts from the bumper...
Ta
Mark
Also, do the bottom brackets line up with the captive nuts that usually hold the undertray on (mine are sheared, so I'll need to drill and tap)
Finally (for now
), did the plastic inner wing shields fit back on, (if so, did they require cutting ?) along with the brake ducts from the bumper...Ta
Mark
04 May 2004, 07:05 PM
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Houghton = My pipework is slightly off on the passenger side connection in front of the engine/radiator. But not all cars are exactly the same, mine has also had the engine out so may have shifted a bit towards the radiator which is stopping the pipework from being in the correct place.
I have tried to adjust the screw in the back of my HKS SSQV and it makes no difference, but I have noticed that it only makes CHA CHA noise below 0 boost, above 0 and the dumpvalve works.
Markwild = It is a P1/WRC replica from Revolution, that is what it says on my receipt.
I did not have to make the ABC cuts on mine but the pipes are VERY close together but there is no knocking yet, may appear after it has shifted in a few weeks.
The bottom brackets do meet up with the captive nuts but do need the brackets bending to shape.
The passenger inner wing does need cutting under the car to allow for the new pipework.
Did anyone get a strip of black plastic with their intercooler? It took me about a week before realising what it is.
Cheers
Scott
I have tried to adjust the screw in the back of my HKS SSQV and it makes no difference, but I have noticed that it only makes CHA CHA noise below 0 boost, above 0 and the dumpvalve works.
Markwild = It is a P1/WRC replica from Revolution, that is what it says on my receipt.
I did not have to make the ABC cuts on mine but the pipes are VERY close together but there is no knocking yet, may appear after it has shifted in a few weeks.
The bottom brackets do meet up with the captive nuts but do need the brackets bending to shape.
The passenger inner wing does need cutting under the car to allow for the new pipework.
Did anyone get a strip of black plastic with their intercooler? It took me about a week before realising what it is.
Cheers
Scott
Last edited by scoootie5; 04 May 2004 at 07:07 PM.
04 May 2004, 07:16 PM
#86
Originally Posted by markwild
Andrew C / Houghton, did you need to make the modification that del2 had to make to the pipework (i.e. his a/b/c cuts ?)
Also, do the bottom brackets line up with the captive nuts that usually hold the undertray on (mine are sheared, so I'll need to drill and tap)
Finally (for now ), did the plastic inner wing shields fit back on, (if so, did they require cutting ?) along with the brake ducts from the bumper...
Ta
Mark
Also, do the bottom brackets line up with the captive nuts that usually hold the undertray on (mine are sheared, so I'll need to drill and tap)
Finally (for now
), did the plastic inner wing shields fit back on, (if so, did they require cutting ?) along with the brake ducts from the bumper...Ta
Mark
Also, don't have an undertray, so can't comment on that, sorry.
Wheel arch liners went back OK once I managed to get replacement plastic fixings from main dealer. I had to leave off the driver's side brake duct and the liner went back fine. Passenger side liner needed a split along it where the inner wing comes down. Starting from where the towing eye is and back alongside the clipped on brake ducting. With just the split in, it will line up with the bumper section of brake duct OK. The other side of the split, I managed to fold around the underside of the i/c pipe and still get it into position with clips.
Hope that makes sense and helps.
Gerry
04 May 2004, 07:20 PM
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I used a small hacksaw for the large areas and a very sharp stanley knife and alot of patience for the small and final areas.
It does take time but worth it afterwards, just remember everyone will see the bumper so it has to be neat.
Scott
Oh by the way I have a MY94 ..
It does take time but worth it afterwards, just remember everyone will see the bumper so it has to be neat.
Scott
Oh by the way I have a MY94 ..
04 May 2004, 07:37 PM
#89
Originally Posted by scoootie5
Houghton = My pipework is slightly off on the passenger side connection in front of the engine/radiator. But not all cars are exactly the same, mine has also had the engine out so may have shifted a bit towards the radiator which is stopping the pipework from being in the correct place.
Originally Posted by scoootie5
I have tried to adjust the screw in the back of my HKS SSQV and it makes no difference, but I have noticed that it only makes CHA CHA noise below 0 boost, above 0 and the dumpvalve works.
Originally Posted by scoootie5
Did anyone get a strip of black plastic with their intercooler? It took me about a week before realising what it is.
Cheers
Scott
Cheers
Scott
Gerry
04 May 2004, 07:50 PM
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I also have two fans and did touch the fan connector which I removed from the clip moved out of the way, is a bit close though but will not be going anywhere.
I did think of the lower radiator hose which is touching the pipework and the may heat up the intercooler pipe, need to find a way of not making this touch.
Maybe not on your year anyway, but on the early cars you have to cut the innerwing (make the hole bigger), the plastic strip covers the inner line of the cut hole so it covers any nastyness made when cutting. Looks neat now compared to the squew-wiff cutting by my cackhandedness.
Scott
I did think of the lower radiator hose which is touching the pipework and the may heat up the intercooler pipe, need to find a way of not making this touch.
Maybe not on your year anyway, but on the early cars you have to cut the innerwing (make the hole bigger), the plastic strip covers the inner line of the cut hole so it covers any nastyness made when cutting. Looks neat now compared to the squew-wiff cutting by my cackhandedness.
Scott