ScoobyEcu...Money well spent
Thanks people, I will bite the bullet and have a look tomorrow. Mine is a 94/95 jap import WRX, not sure if that makes a difference.
On the ScoobyEcu info it says about dis-connecting the battery to take out the ecu, once out I re-connect the battery to run alarms etc. until the unit is returned and it will be ok yeah?
On the ScoobyEcu info it says about dis-connecting the battery to take out the ecu, once out I re-connect the battery to run alarms etc. until the unit is returned and it will be ok yeah?
I can't believe the difference this board has made. I wish i could have had it for scoobyshootout but alas Davids programmer packed up on the day.
Next year i will give it another shot. I was too slow of the line and didn't keep the car in the power for the 1/4 mile runs i was redlining too much. as for top speed my first was the quickest just couldn't improve on it yet i know the car is quicker on my private track. Is there a secret here to?.
Pete
Next year i will give it another shot. I was too slow of the line and didn't keep the car in the power for the 1/4 mile runs i was redlining too much. as for top speed my first was the quickest just couldn't improve on it yet i know the car is quicker on my private track. Is there a secret here to?.
Pete
Simmo 2: Temperatures are important. The oil has to be fully warmed up. Just because water temp is normal means little in relation to oil temp and hammering the car on cold oil is a very bad thing. Next you need the inlet air as close to ambient as possible so you get maximum efficiency. Hot air is no use for power and I try to get induction temps, measured at the throttle body as close to ambient (also measured) as possible. 2 degrees is great and 6 degrees is acceptable. Third you need to get the turbo, headers and up-pipe as hot as you reasonably can. This also makes quite a measurable difference.
So now you see that there are conflicting requirements to set the best possible times.
I suppose the best way to set the best time would be to drive in off the road where you had been cruising for 10mls so everything would be at operating temperature, stage immediately so there is no heat soak and give it 100% on green.
Some sort of temperature combination may have resulted in your first run being your best.
So now you see that there are conflicting requirements to set the best possible times.
I suppose the best way to set the best time would be to drive in off the road where you had been cruising for 10mls so everything would be at operating temperature, stage immediately so there is no heat soak and give it 100% on green.
Some sort of temperature combination may have resulted in your first run being your best.
I know this thread disappeared into the realms a short while ago, but a quick question.
[novice mode on/] Scott mentioned earlier in the post 4 ECU codes that have a socket ready for fitment. Forgive my ignorance, but would it make any difference having an ECU for a UK car in a Jap spec STI like mine? Does the chip override the UK settings? [/novice mode off]
Cheers,
Marky-San
[novice mode on/] Scott mentioned earlier in the post 4 ECU codes that have a socket ready for fitment. Forgive my ignorance, but would it make any difference having an ECU for a UK car in a Jap spec STI like mine? Does the chip override the UK settings? [/novice mode off]
Cheers,
Marky-San
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