Well, I have to congrtulate Gruppe-S on their service. Headers arrived today, after being ordered tuesday evening.

£40 for VAT duty etc.

Dirt cheap.

Paul

 

Stripped all the stuff out the way holding engine in, plus box out


Lifting engine out - engine lift did not go very high


Nuffin left


I used quite a lot of octane booster with this engine Cltuch still looks quite good Flywheel less blue than some of the language used getting the box out as it is just a bit heavy


[Edited by john banks - 23/06/2003 17:30:25]

 

Is that your new compresor wheel for the turbo, top left?



BTW, your cars manky!

Alan

 

Since i took the gearbox and other bits and bobs out on friday, my car doesnt look too dissimlar, wish i had your engine and gearbox though

Gearbox aint that heavy, David's six speed is though

Take it the engine is coming soon then, or already arrived??

Steven

 

john,

nothing wrong with the engine lift. it's just with us having the car so high, to do the box that it was struggling. if we did not have the box to do too, it would have been a piece of p155.

 

Had the engine since the middle of last week.

Yes it needs a bit of a clean. Too many turbo swaps and a big oil leak from the half moon seals on the rocker cover previously have taken their toll.

 

looking good.. at least you dont have much to do to yours..

Ive got lots left to do

Gearboxes are light.. I pick mine up and move it around the garage on my own.. not the 6spd though..

and Ive removed and refitted a gearbox on my own in the garage before... Never again though.. fitting the 6spd was interesting..

You putting the engine and box in as one to make it easy?

Having said that without rad out and a load leveler it could be awkward..

David

 

We were going to put the box in first.

 

probably easiest way

good luck

David

 

david,

had thought about doing it as a "oner" but decided against it. by the time you drop the sub frame and rack, with no air tools or car lift as we are doing it in my garage at home, rather than mates equipped workshop, (read as cr4p trolley jack and borrowed hoist) , well it seemed a good idea at the time, as it will be a case of bits here and there, rather than a start till finished job and I did not want to tie up a bay at a working garage. if I was not in the middle of hay and silage making things would have been done different. mind you even stopping for a few hours on sunday while I cut another 15 acres of hay did not hinder the progress much considering everything.

edit to add, the fmic and air con rad where left in but the coolant rad is out.

[Edited by T-uk - 6/23/2003 11:02:00 PM]

 

You dont actually need to remove the bonnet to take the engine out.
The bonnet does lift very high on the hinges, and subaru kindly provided an extra bonnet stay on the drivers side strut tower. Take the stay out of the front panel, and re-locate to the strut tower, and u have one very easy accessable engine bay.
As David says, box in first, then engine, and all should go smoothly. If removing, Id hav took the engine out first, followed by the box.

 

I know what you mean.. and unfortunatley I know what you mean about the hay having spent a week with steven..

Also agree with stevie.. makes bonnet re-alligntment non existent.. even though you should mark it with chalk or similar if removing it..

looks a cramped garage.. best thing is once the box is in... you can move the thing again.

David

 

the story behind removing the bonnet was

"plan a" was get the front end up on ramps to drain the fluids,exhaust system off,remove the lower bell housing bolts and anything else round the engine. then wheel the car outside and remove the engine with a telescopic forklift ,so this was why the bonnet was removed. we would then do the box outside while andyf swapped over the engine bits in the garage next weekend.

after a phone call saying I could get a hoist in a couple of hours, we decided to get the rear of the car higher and drop the box while we where waiting. then when the hoist arrived and we could get it upto the front of the car just hauled the engine out in the garage.

the plans now to get the box in and the car on the deck and mobile to give andy room in the garage.

andy is doing the timing belt and swapping some other bits over as I feel uncomfortable re-using tensioners and idlers on a new high power re-build. the miserable c**t won't even let me use a new release bearing.

 

LMFAO.

David

 

hows it going?

 

Going back in and up and running on Saturday with any luck
Run-in by Sunday, remapped Monday, great fun Tuesday, traded in for an M5 on Wednesday

[Edited by Andy.F - 6/25/2003 8:47:47 PM]

 

PMSL Nice one Andy

 

lost count of how many times I heard about M5's in the last 4 hours

lateral box in and car down on the deck and mobile.

started swapping some engine bits over, oil cooler, rear part of cam covers, pulleys, inlet manifold off the 2litre. finished wrapping those bloody headers. I have photos but will have to mail them to john to post.

found that the phase 1 block only has one bolt hole for the starter while the phase two uses two bolts. my idea is to thread the gearbox bell housing side and use a set screw but not long enough to bottom out at the block end.

doubt much will happen until saturday now as I have hay to finish an jb's working , anyway, we need andy to check the idlers as I'm taking **** all to do with using old bits on a 5k engine [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img] .

[Edited by T-uk - 6/25/2003 10:37:52 PM]

 

Have replied on 22b..

David

 

"jb dancing with excitement"


big b***ard up pipe


pin access hole blocked by liners?


manifold not bolted down yet


hated wrapping these f****** or "Christian R posts pictures of his garden furniture so why shouldn't I post pictures of T-uk's?"


think we will need to thread lower hole


[Edited by john banks - 6/26/2003 6:50:58 PM]

[Edited by john banks - 6/26/2003 6:52:43 PM]

 

take it all the edits where to put *'s in

if I had known you where posting all the pictures, I would have got gina to hang some new curtains

 

LOL.

 

is there an estimate as to the best (ie enough but not just using it to finish it) amount of wrap required for the headers. how much should I order? I have plenty of 2 inch wide stuff for up-pipe downpipe, headers look like 1" will be better for the curves.

paul

 

John
Dont forget to put the pin plugs in as there is not much liner below the hole.
Steve.

 

lol at your comment

BTW, You are very lucky to have friends around you that can fit it!! you will save so much on labour charges!!

 

OK Steve thanks. There are still a fair few bits to swap, but it will be done.

Paul, two 1" 50' rolls IIRC.

Christian, indeed

 

paul,

I actually used 2x 1"by 50' rolls and a bit of my own stuff on everything you see there inc the up-pipe ,there is loads of overlap on the bends. I think I would have saved quite a bit if the lambda plugs where in and I wrapped over them but, I wanted to keep them accessible in case they are ever needed. the up-pipe one has a egt probe in it already.if you have enough 2" stuff for the straight bits you might manage the tight bends with one 1" roll but it is the tight bends that eat the stuff.

steve,

the pin plugs are ready to be fitted.

christian,

it ain't running yet .

 

Bump

 

Engine is in. Goes very well. More noise from the forged pistons than I expected but I gather that is par for the course with 4 thou clearance.

[Edited by john banks - 6/29/2003 10:28:23 PM]

 

Hmmm.. I'm just not convinced it should be THAT noisy though John ? I've never heard any big bhp cossies rattle like that with forged slipper pistons ? (even from cold never mind hot)
Perhaps the alloy block transmits more sound ? however I still wouldn't expect the knocklink to be picking up so much noise on part throttle ?

Andy