Daily driver 2.4 or 2.5 project - target 450 BHP/400lbft reliable
John, looking forward to seeing the pictures, in a strange way 
With me fiddling about with the boost control, and causing a lack of boost control, i hit *cough* 2.0 bar *cough* last night on the way home!!
Think that might of tested it, as i did it a couple of times, more for amusement at going sideways in 4th

With me fiddling about with the boost control, and causing a lack of boost control, i hit *cough* 2.0 bar *cough* last night on the way home!!

Think that might of tested it, as i did it a couple of times, more for amusement at going sideways in 4th
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Steven.. stop being stupid and sort it..
I hope to god your running fully closed loop fueling and have stopped the Fuel pressure drop???
If not.. BEHAVE!
I hope to god your running fully closed loop fueling and have stopped the Fuel pressure drop???
If not.. BEHAVE!
Morbid fascination, I think they may be a bit dodgy photos as it is difficult to focus on the right bit 
Thinking this through I am sure the combustion pressures with all that advance with the methanol were what did it both this time and last time. Not one to play with without a motor built to take the high pressures I think.
Will be interesting to see how Andy F gets on with a jag of nitrous, presumably that will find any weak spot.

Thinking this through I am sure the combustion pressures with all that advance with the methanol were what did it both this time and last time. Not one to play with without a motor built to take the high pressures I think.
Will be interesting to see how Andy F gets on with a jag of nitrous, presumably that will find any weak spot.
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
steven, he was at my house this morning when I left.. knowing him.. he will probably be still there!
Fuel pressure issue first!!
Fuel pressure issue first!!
Sorry for the delay, you can just see the crack in the piston on the photos I have and the manky headgasket, but since "up"grading to XP my FTP doesn't work on Pipex, maybe Pipex was just being silly as it sometimes is, will try again.
Hopefully get the car back tonight, have a weaker actuator on it, once run in will map with a 3 port with conservative timing and smooth manners, thinking about 1.2 bar held to the top and hopefully about 420 BHP and 380 lbft at Star or Dastek.
The old engine block with a used piston and a very light hone of one bore will undoubtedly go in Job's '93 nearly 1/4 million mile Legacy Turbo (on original engine, turbo, lambda sensor, only ever had one cambelt change LOL) with standard 98 heads from Stan S, uprated chargecooler pump, decat (quiet), ported OEM headers, gently revised inlet, 20G, 550s, fuel pump, AP clutch and STi gearbox (5 or 6MT). OEM manifold and chargecooler will limit the power, but it should be responsive, probably just run 1 bar, but it will be "disposable" as a toy, money will really go into the gearbox and turbo which shouldn't be destroyed if we crash it at Knockhill for example.
Hopefully get the car back tonight, have a weaker actuator on it, once run in will map with a 3 port with conservative timing and smooth manners, thinking about 1.2 bar held to the top and hopefully about 420 BHP and 380 lbft at Star or Dastek.
The old engine block with a used piston and a very light hone of one bore will undoubtedly go in Job's '93 nearly 1/4 million mile Legacy Turbo (on original engine, turbo, lambda sensor, only ever had one cambelt change LOL) with standard 98 heads from Stan S, uprated chargecooler pump, decat (quiet), ported OEM headers, gently revised inlet, 20G, 550s, fuel pump, AP clutch and STi gearbox (5 or 6MT). OEM manifold and chargecooler will limit the power, but it should be responsive, probably just run 1 bar, but it will be "disposable" as a toy, money will really go into the gearbox and turbo which shouldn't be destroyed if we crash it at Knockhill for example.
I've been driving it and tweaking it gently whilst Job is fixing my Impreza. T-uk is yet to be convinced to be in on it as his ideal is a stripped out Spec C style high revving track beast, and I can quite see why, although it isn't exactly disposable, neither even are old RAs IMHO. So it will be a joint toy for Job and I as plans go at present.
It is enormous fun as it is such an unlikely looking performance candidate
It is the first time T-uk has been scared whilst I have been driving, he insists I was taking the corners quicker than I do in my Impreza, 200 BHP just doesn't bite you on the ar$e the same I suppose. Superb fun. He said something about me growing *****
It is enormous fun as it is such an unlikely looking performance candidate

It is the first time T-uk has been scared whilst I have been driving, he insists I was taking the corners quicker than I do in my Impreza, 200 BHP just doesn't bite you on the ar$e the same I suppose. Superb fun. He said something about me growing *****
Last edited by john banks; Aug 18, 2004 at 03:49 PM.
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
PMSL..
Sounds like a good plan.. See scoobyshootout 1 for what can be done to a legacy 7th fastest iirc.. - LegacyTurbs... bust the gearbox with 22psi on a td05
David
Sounds like a good plan.. See scoobyshootout 1 for what can be done to a legacy 7th fastest iirc.. - LegacyTurbs... bust the gearbox with 22psi on a td05

David

Job is quite keen to strip it and strengthen the chassis which is a bit tired as well, he has the big welding gas bottle ordered
Sorry, don't know anything about welding LOL.
Would be interested in knowing how he strengthens the chassis John. Just seam welding? Considering doing the same on mine this winter - chassis is very slack now....door closes with a different sound when I park with one rear wheel on a curb, and the other in the air (ARB on stiffest
).
It's getting to the point where I guess I'd be better moving my car on, and buying a lower k's non-track abused item....or a spaceframed imp
Richard
).It's getting to the point where I guess I'd be better moving my car on, and buying a lower k's non-track abused item....or a spaceframed imp

Richard
John
Having been following this thread with interest and disappionted to here your 2.5 lifted it's heads again, have you come to a definative reason for this.
Is it possible that the car got to "hot" with to much advance ? I'm no expert but having spoken to a number of US people they insist you must upgrade the cooling on a tweaked 2.5
Mark
Having been following this thread with interest and disappionted to here your 2.5 lifted it's heads again, have you come to a definative reason for this.
Is it possible that the car got to "hot" with to much advance ? I'm no expert but having spoken to a number of US people they insist you must upgrade the cooling on a tweaked 2.5
Mark
Mark, the temps seemed OK. I think it was torque/cylinder pressure.
Richard, I think it was seam welding he was planning.
Scott, yes thanks very much
Car back again, but the clutch is slipping even during running in. Some oil did get on it during engine removal, seems unlikely it will improve?
Richard, I think it was seam welding he was planning.
Scott, yes thanks very much

Car back again, but the clutch is slipping even during running in. Some oil did get on it during engine removal, seems unlikely it will improve?
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From: 7.74 @179 mph 1/4 mile - road legal
Pour de-greaser through the flywheel access hatch with your foot on the clutch and someone turning the engine over slowly, then hose it off with water, then go burn off any remaining deposits with some hard use.
Worth a try ?
Worth a try ?
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From: ECU Mapping - www.JollyGreenMonster.co.uk
Won't the degreaser screw the release bearing though?
Clutch friction plate material seems to be less absorbant than brake pads which you will next get oil out of.. but maybe a chance with the friction plate..
degreaser and then spray grease with a long nozzle on the release bearing?
Clutch friction plate material seems to be less absorbant than brake pads which you will next get oil out of.. but maybe a chance with the friction plate..
degreaser and then spray grease with a long nozzle on the release bearing?
New clutch plate arriving tomorrow, but will try the above method to revive it, might avoid taking the engine out again (but easier than removing the 6MT). Clutch was already cleaned with brake cleaner and dry before it went back in though, so I'm not that hopeful.
Done about 50 miles. I run in engines with a little more load than some
I also get through engines a little quicker than some, but I don't think there is a relationship
and I don't keep them long enough for them to start using oil
I also get through engines a little quicker than some, but I don't think there is a relationship
and I don't keep them long enough for them to start using oil



