My limited research suggests that only the newage alloy arms are readily available new.

 

Personally I wouldn't be too worried about getting some from a breaker, although I'd carefully check the dimensions before fitting.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F282896885082

And there is always the option of an ALK and possibly a roll center correction kit too.

 

Or new.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F330626803561

 

Try ringing AS Performance 0191 410 3770
They do high caster alloy arm modification, so might have some stock classic alloy arms?
They could press newage bushes (group n?) into the classic arms.
I'd have Group N bushes, rather than an anti-lift kit.
Roll correction kit would be helpful if you're lowered (25mm?)

 

An all-in-one solution would be better than messing about sourcing separate parts and having them pressed.

Although newage saloon ARBs are cheap and plentiful - would there not be more benefit to having a wider track at the front?

I'm not sure how much lowered the car is from standard as it's on coilovers and I just tried to match the ride height of my Bug on PCA Blues. So maybe only a 20mm drop?

I'm considering swapping the PCA/Koni combination onto the Blob anyway as I can't get the current Meister-Rs to ride as good as stock or perform as well as the PCA/Konis for fast road. They are neither one thing or the other.

 

Presumably I'd also need saloon track rod ends and driveshaft to do it properly? Classic arms maybe the simpler option in that case.

 

You'll have too much negative camber at the front, if you use saloon arms. They're about 10mm wider per side.

If AS Performance have got the classic alloy arms? Then they'll have the rest of the stuff you'll need. I'm sure they'll press the bushes in for you.

You could always get them to add 2 degrees of positive caster to the classic arms!

 

I've got a new spring/kyb ultra sr strut set-up, wagon fitment. If you want to test it?

Have you still got the bugeye rear top mounts? The ones that didn't fit the PCA springs?

 

I have 2 sets of Bugeye rear mounts - one used and one brand new.

 

What are the details of the new kit?

 

I've been trying to find something wagon, that doesn't involve the Koni inserts, as the vast majority of people find the install off-putting,

The excel-g's are obviously on their limit, with regard to the PCA blues spring rate, hence the reduced longevity. So, rather than a softer set of springs for the excel-g's:

I used the wagon specific, non-inverted, kyb ultra sr and matched them to some higher-rate springs, to stop the front bump stops being so frequently engaged, at lower than oem ride height - the same front bump stops you're using on the Koni inserts.
I stiffened the rear bump stops and springs, to use a small 20mm rear bar.

I asked about the bugeye rear mounts, as I moved the heavier closed coils, on the rear, to the top of the spring (un-sprung weight). This spring design requires bugeye rear top mounts with blob/hawk struts.

I would recommend a Whiteline or SuperPro roll centre kit and Whiteline kca335 front top mounts, with this set-up.

 

Had you (or Stuart) done the recall thing at Subaru main dealer? I had mine checked a couple of years ago, they said they were fine...but I've recently picked up some newage alloy arms and will get them fitted soon. Hearing more and more people saying they've had steel control arm failures.

 

Haven't been able to get hold of a Subaru dealer yet.

On the one hand I want Subaru to pay for it, on the other, I'd rather have alloy arms fitted...

 

Literally rang 4 dealers and not one of them picked up the phone.

 

"Treated" 2013......need to get the car to them and they'll inspect it and then decide whether it's a corrosion failure or not....

Other Wagon was also "Treated" in 2012...so that's probably due an imminent failure too!

 

I guess I need to get the wheel off and see if there is any visible corrosion rather than just an impact fail. No point taking it to a dealer if it's not corroded I suppose?

 

You could use saloon front struts, with newage saloon alloy arms, to reduce the excessive negative camber increase - caused by wagon struts with newage saloon alloy arms.
But, then you've still got the issue of the front driveshafts and front roll bar lengths.

 

I have adjustable top mounts so could probably dial out the camber but I'm convinced that classic arms are the way to go.

 

FUBAR

 

Assuming that Subaru honour the replacements, I might then get the new steel arms swapped onto the Bug and have alloy arms fitted to the Blob.

 

Good luck with getting subaru to admit liability and contribute to fixing these.

 

Booked in and delivered tomorrow. Doesn't sound like they are going to look at it until next week though.

 

If they agree that the failure was caused by corrosion, and it was checked and passed fit by a Subaru dealer, then they should definitely replace for free. You'd have to pay for them to be swapped onto the bug though surely?

MattyB has lots of alloy arms, I got mine off him recently for a great price.

 

So the Green Machine has been re-commissioned and sent for it's MoT.



Tyres were a bit borderline, so swapped the new wheels over. Horn doesn't work. Rear seat belt doesn't recoil. PAS is on way out. Hopefully won't be too expensive.....

Driving it again has convinced me to swap the Koni/PCA combo onto the Blob - it just rides/handles so much better.

Blob got trailered of to Subaru this morning. Doubt I'll hear anything until the end of next week.

 

There'll be a cost for sure, but I don't think it's too much labour if it's up on a lift and everything accessible. It's just a couple of bolts and a ball joint. But a pfaff if you are trying to do it on your drive on axle stands.

The Bug will have it's arms checked during MoT and if anything is amiss, that will be going back to Subaru as well.

 

So the Bug is MoT'd and taxed!

Horn was rewired to a toggle switch.
No advisories AFAIK.

PAS probably needs the steering knuckle greasing after sat for a while.

Now I need to find someone to steam clean the whole interior pronto.

 

So an advisory for rear strut area corrosion (which I knew about) and low brake fluid.....errr....just top it up during inspection

Got a couple of guys from here https://car4valet.co.uk/ to come out Friday afternoon and fully steam clean the interior. 90mins and they did a really good job. Car is now sanitized and no longer a health risk.

Discovered some bad news though, apparently from 2019, all cars with air bag steerings wheels as OEM, must be fitted with one in order to pass MoT. Not enough just to put a resistor inline to stop the airbag light appearing. I expect that Damd wheels will suddenly increase by 50%!

 

What are the damping rates like on the Ultra SRs? The one negative aspect of the Koni's is that they could really do with being maybe 10% softer at their default setting. That way they would be the same as Excel Gs but with all the benefit of the superior Koni design and build. I guess though as the inserts are not Impreza specific, they would be unlikely to change them.

Definitely fitting the Bug setup onto the Blob though; so much more composed and really feels like the strut/sprngs are working in harmony compared to the Meister Rs.

 

The Koni sport inserts are Impreza specific - they are stiff in compression, to allow for lowered springs.

The non-inverted Ultra SR are twice the damping rate of excel-g's, in compression and rebound - not as stiff as koni sport inserts in compression.
https://translate.google.co.uk/trans...Fultra-sr.html

Inverted ultra sr are as oem.

What are your pca/koni ride heights?:
Measure from the wheel centre vertically up to the metal arch (not the plastic liner). Make a note of the fuel level.
Don't be surprised, or concerned, about a 6mm side-to-side differential.

Depending on the wheel style, it's sometimes difficult to measure accurately. If so, use this method:
Hook the tape on the wheel rim nearest the ground. Measure vertically upwards, across the wheel centre, to the metal arch = x

Then, hook a tape on the wheel rim, measure across the wheel centre to the outer edge of the rim, on the opposite side of the wheel - divide this measurement by 2 = y (y is, obviously, the same on all 4 wheels).

x minus y = ride heights