That's great. I assumed it was the 3 pin one. Do you happen to know where the horn relay is also?

 

Yes, they are pony on the Bug and they obviously didn't see fit to improve them on the Blob. Are your Leggy ones HID also?

 

Along with rewiring my lighting loom and removing the headlights a dozen times, I've also been winterizing the car.

Fitted some Rally Armour mudflaps and also my winter wheels with Nokian WR A4 tyres. The stock wheels look a little lost in the arches compared with the STi rims and my spaced Bug wheels!







Now that I have the same wheel and tyre sizes fitted as my Bug, I'll try and match the ride height exactly (STi rims have wider tyres and therefore they are also slight taller). As mentioned earlier I think, I'm expecting it to still be too low to get my trolley jack under the front but will see. Depends how high I have to go to get it to clear but I want to set it as close as possible to my Bug on PCA springs.

I bought an LED indicator relay so will fit that shortly. I also bought a red JDM hazard switch. I've noticed that the air vent is not clipped in at the top, possibly broken, definitely been removed. Maybe able to fix it but I think I will try to swap the Bug unit across as I much prefer the cup holder there rather than behind handle brake - bottles/cups get in the way when driving.

I unavoidably had to ford a flooded road over Xmas and it resulted in blowing my front O2 sensor. I have a replacement but unsure whether to attempt to replace it myself. When I tried to do so on my Bug, it was stuck fast. Took it to my local Scooby indie and they couldn't remove it without stripping the threads and having to weld a new bung into the exhaust.

I might give it a go on the Blob but if it doesn't come out easily I may have to book it in again. I have a long breaker bar and in theory it should only be tightened to 20nm......I have an impact wrench also but I'm thinking that may be a quick way to strip the threads?

As well as goosing the sensor, my little aquatic excursion also flooded my fog light...



When I had the headlights out I had a look at removing at draining the water but it looked like the nuts were very rusted and thought better of it. Still works.

Finally, settled on 11 front, 9 rear for the Meister R shocks. Seems to be the softest setting whereby the shocks and springs feel like they are working in unison.

 

 

Apparently there is also one near the fuse box under the driver's dash?

Just trying to rule out as many things as possible before I start chasing wires. I've swapped the horns and the fuse above across cars and determined that they all work.

 

Nope, only fuse for Horn is no6 next to the relay in the main fuse box.

Feed marked A below, comes direct from battery +ve

 

I sent you a PM back in December for a download where you could look all this up yourself

 

Then what would you do all day?



I think I was confusing it with the Classics that have the relay under the dash.

 

LED relay doesn't work, full stop.

It's either duff or not compatible. Stock relay quotes 12.8v, LED one 12v - will that be the issue?

 

Sounds as if you will have to resort to fitting load resistors...........

https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog...rflashing/275/

 

I've ordered a 12.8v relay that allows you to adjust the flash speed, so it claims.

I fitted the JDM hazard switch which was straight forwards. However, the clip at the top of the vent that wasn't fitted properly cannot be fixed. Someone had tried to force it in and dented the dash in the process. So it will never clip in properly now. Which is annoying.
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The 12.8v relay doesn't work either...

On section 30 of the wiring manual, it shows the indicator schematic. The relay is marked as 1,2,3 with 2 going to Earth. Looking at the relay, there are 2 vertical pins and an upper horizontal pins. Which is 1, 2 and 3?

I've tried 7 and 9 here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/...asher,60,3608:

Number 9 states that it is Live Left, Load Top Middle and Earth right. Whereas on the relay I have it says Earth Left, Load Top Middle and Live right, as per relay number 3.

 

The wiring diagram shows the pin layout for the wiring harness plug (looking onto the plug face) at the bottom of the page.....



The pin layout of the actual relay photo below seems to be correct as long as the spacing suits the subaru plug

 

The relay that I have been sent has - and + the other way round.

 

Correct relay fitted and front O2 sensor replaced.

 

Disaster - broken down!!

Changing lanes on the M4 when huge vibration from drivers front wheel. Thought puncture and pulled onto hard shoulder. No obvious issues. Fortunately only a short way from junction so gingerly drove it off the motorway and vibration had gone. Got about 200 yards along the A46 and vibration back.

Thinking wheel bearing or driveshaft? Awaiting recovery

 

Gutted for you. Could it be a wheel weight has fallen off and thrown the balancing out?

 

Could be. It's quite a violent vibration though. Gonna be at least another 2hours for recovery. Fortunately only 10 miles from home so waiting for the missus to pick me up before returning later this evening.

 

They are old winter wheels on currently so a wheel weight is possible I guess At least an easy fix if so.

 

Too dark and raining to **** about changing a wheel if that turns out not to be the issue.

 

Any noises at low speed?
I had a wheel bearing fail on an old escort and you could hear it grinding and knocking at low speed. only vibrated when cornering though. The rest of the time it just made the steering feel vague. Well, vaguer than usual.

 

Steel lower control arm failed?

 

Nothing noticeable. Literally just changed lanes and then the whole steering shook violently until I stopped. Then after I'd checked for a puncture, drove half a mile with everything completely normal until it started again - although this time in a straight line. Luckily it happened again right before a lay by.

Definitely drivers front wheel is where its eminating from.

 

Good shout and definite area to investigate.

If it's not a simple wheel weight, then I'll be spending tomorrow trying to fix the horn on my other Impreza with a view to getting it Mot'd on Saturday. Then at least I'll have one road worthy Scooby rather then 2 non runners outside the house.

 

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...07-result.html

 

Lower control arm sheered in half.

 

Gutted for you. But at the same time glad it didn't result is an accident.

 

Doubt I'll be able to get hold of a Scooby dealer today.

What are my options if I go alloy - Classic arms or Newage Saloon with matching ARB?

Money isn't the issue, more the time taken to rectify.

 

Classic alloy arms with newage bush pressed in. Or, hardened washers either side of the classic bush, to make up the difference in bush width.

Make sure you get the hardened cones that fit into the alloy arms.

Your front bar should be fine. But use newage alloy arm drop links.

 

As 2pot.
Newage saloon arms give a wider track, so need a front arb to go with it.
Classics have the same track, but need spacers to fit.