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What about making a pair, in something rust resistant - stainless?:
25mm od x 8mm height x 15mm id (not m15 clearance id)
Lots of people on ebay making spacers
Another year, another MoT - never under estimate the power of high temp silicone sealant
I've replaced the top mount and also the nasty Flo-Flex rear ARB links (that seemed to be solid) with some Whiteline ones I had. Ride has improved noticeably, so will see how it feels when I get some new summer tyres.
I've had a string of power issues in the last 12 months; firstly a seized wastegate actuator limiting boost to mechanical pressure, which was an easy replacement. Then a big dead spot at 4k - replaced plugs and that largely fixed it. However, it still very sluggish above 3.5k. Can be intermittent but generally it's very slow to pull up in the higher revs. Replaced fuel filter and that made a slight difference but the issue remains. I don't have any ECU codes and I'm loathe to replace parts just guessing. Plan to get a Tactrix at some point and do some data logging. However, in the meantime I've ordered a new RCM 340 fuel pump. I figure it has to be either fueling or the ECU is doing something dramatic with pulling timing (and I'd expect a code). I have an uprated 290lph SWRD fuel pump fitted but I've realised that it's 10years old! So that's the number 1 suspect.
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; Aug 15, 2025 at 01:01 PM.
Bit of an anecdote from a DPD employee; I know there is an issue ATM with DPD in areas where they run electric vans; The computer system hasn't been properly updated to account for the shorter range/non-refuelable vans. When vans run out of charge they go back to base. Remaining parcels stay on van, van goes back out on the next shift after being charged or parcel transferred to another van along with fresh batch of parcels, that also follows the same route. So again runs out of charge before the end of the route. In the end the van fills in with undelivered parcels left over from the last stretch of the route the van couldn't reach before running out of power. Only then does it finally go straight to the latter destination. Oh and the depots don't have enough charging points so the vans are dumped to charge overnight at any nearby charge point so the public can't use them.
Looks like it's heading home to RCM.
I ordered a printer not so long ago which was to be delivered by EVRI.
Arrived at the Delivery Depot within 24hrs of sending where it remained for 5 days without any sign of being delivered and no explanation or reason given to various requests for info.
Supplier recalled the parcel and sent out a replacement with......... EVRI !! - luckily arrived next day.
Monday 01 September 2025
09:55 Item Received
Wallingford DO
So back to Wallingford...
Anyway, the new fuel pump fixed my running issues, so I'm pleased with that.
I've come to the conclusion that the KYV Excel Gs are just a bit rubbish, and that my memory must be clouded from many years ago when I first used them (or they have changed the design/construction of them). So thinking of trying the Koni inserts with the Whiteline springs. I'm 99% sure that on consideration, the rear are fitted to Bug struts. Which means firstly, that I can use them with the Whiteline springs and secondly, will explain why I can't find the 921/Pedders 5052 spacers....because they are attached to the Koni struts. So I have 2 different sets of shocks and 2 different sets of springs and all the hardware to run any combination.
I need to decide whether to have the Konis refurbished (they are 8 years old) and maybe see if I can have the valving set to a little softer first or try fitting them as is. They were definitely getting crashy, which is why I embarked on this thankless quest of ride nirvana in the first place but I suppose that could be down to worn top mounts/springs/hardware?
It appears that the car didn't like having it's power back and has thrown a strop and decided to overheat.
150 miles from home.
No visible coolant leaks from hoses. Still coolant in the overflow tank. Water pump? Thermostat? Head Gasket? Either way, a very long journey back on a trailer beckons.....
Apparently there is supposed to be coolant in the radiator....who knew?!
Where the coolant has gone is a job for another day, as it running happily now. I suspect that the engine has been taking little sips...
The rad was full of crap, possibly radweld, so that needs replacing. Are the ICP ones any good or is it a false economy fitting anything but genuine Subaru?
full alloy ones japseed etc are good ,twice more coolant but i went with oem -perrin rad panel fits oem rad- on my 530 horses jdm sti ,have engine oil cooler fitted ,no issues at 30°C wheater driving in slow autobahn traffic,max i have seen was 97°C for oil and coolant.
Bought new hoses, thermostat and clamps. One of the top radiator bracket bolts is rusted on - so I guess the rad won't be coming out! Rad looks OK from the front. Of more concern is that the lower rad support bracket is totally rusted through. Surprised it wasn't picked up during the recent MoT (I think my garage takes pity on me...) I think that was replaced about 8 years ago. Am I right in thinking it's spot welded in places, not simply bolted on? Job for my local garage I think.
Anyway, I've drained the coolant but now it's lashing down outside....
Turns out that you can't remove the thermostat without removing the radiator first....so soaked the bolt in WD40 and it came out. Job all done although I definitely chose a bad day to do it!
Some pics of work attepmpted/done will make tread more intresting.
Yes space is limited there but at least You have good access to cambelt now etc.
I bought bug jdm sti power steering cooler with reservoir,need to do swap it before next summer.
The rad is 9 years old and looked fine upon removal. I think that the rad support is actually the original part, so no real surprise it's rotted out on a 20year Jap.
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; Sep 12, 2025 at 03:38 PM.
Reason: More info
Coolant job completed but power steering not happy.
I had to remove the power steering pump to reservoir hose in order to remove the rad. But it's not sealing fully now. Obviously original hose, and the clip has worn big grooves in the hose and I can't get the clip to seat fully back in the grooves. Cue lots of unhappy noises from the pump and lots of air in the reservoir. Thought at first it may just need bleeding but there it definitely air in the line, as the fluid is frothing in the reservoir. Will try and seal it using a jubilee clip, otherwise I'll have to replace the hose and clips.
I've also been using DL Motorsports for parts recently. A bit cheaper than ICP but mostly because you don't get stung with big postage charges for smaller/cheaper parts. Website isn't the most user friendly, helps if you have the part number.
Had some free time recently and the weather was good, so decided to give the interior a thorough clean as it was beginning to whiff!
First job was to replace the cabin filter:
Then I removed the seats to get to the carpet:
Pretty filthy so got to work with the hoover. Subaru in their infinite wisdom chose "carpet" (I use that term very loosely) specifically designed to trap as much small bits of detritus as possible...so a very stiff brush was required to try and free as much crud as possible.
Then I moved onto the steam cleaner:
I did the headlining, rear seats, all the glass, the plastic trim & door cards (need to be careful with the plastic not to apply too much heat) and finally blasted all the air vents (with satisfying puffs of steam out of the connected vents).
Then onto the final machine:
The carpets are so thin that they don't really hold any liquid and you can't really work much solution through them, so it's hard to tell whether the detergent is actually getting into the fibres and cleaning, rather than simply sitting on top.
However, the end results suggest that it was worth the effort:
I cleaned the front seats separately with both the wet vac and steam cleaner, then refitted.
Finally, I gave the interior a blast with Ozium and left the aircon circulating for 10mins or so.
End results? Well it's not like a brand new car but it is much, much better to sit in now!
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; Oct 10, 2025 at 11:30 AM.
This week's job was to fit my Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel, that I've had on my cars for 20+ years, way back when I use to tool about in 205's. It's 350mm, so a nice bit smaller than the stock bus wheel. I'd like a DAMD wheel to retain the airbag but can't really justify ~£400 on one. The other reason for fitting it now,, is that I need an alignment and as such the wheels are pointing slightly right and therefore the steering wheel to be held 10degrees to the left when going straight. Which was beginning to annoy me....so I can just fit the new steering wheel a spline clockwise and it will be pointing straight (remember to move it back before I get an alignment!)
The Momo boss kit that I have claims that it fits ALL newage Imprezas. This is a lie as I discovered when I tried to fit it to my Bugeye. It will only fit earlier classics with a single clock spring air-bag/horn connected. The Bugeye has double connectors, so I had to take a Dremel to the hub and widen the hole considerably in order to make it fit:
So imagine my joy when I removed the wheel on my Blob and discovered this:
There is now a triple connector block!
I couldn't be bothered to spend time cutting anymore material away, so after a bit of a search and discovered that a Japanese solution was the way forward for guaranteed fitment. The 2 kits I found were by DaiKei and HKB. Daikei seems to get better reviews regarding it's overall quality but as they are import only, I bought an HKB one. HKB Boss Kit OS-238 to be precise.
This is a much better design than the Momo boss that has the flat base with an opening for the connectors; the HKB one just has arms coming out from a narrow base, so the connectors aren't an issue:
And here is the wheel fitted:
I have lost the horn functionality currently, as the Momo button requires an additional ring fitted between the wheel and hub and it's everso slightly too big. I'm sure that I could fettle it to work in due course. I expect that I'll have to swap the stock wheel back on for MoT anyway, so It's not really an issue.
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; Oct 10, 2025 at 11:32 AM.
but I suppose that could be down to worn top mounts/springs/hardware?
