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New/Old Familiar Wagon

Old 08 September 2017, 12:24 PM
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Default New/Old Familiar Wagon

So I picked this up from Stuart last Sunday and figured I should probably make an effort to continue his excellent project thread: https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...o-be-here.html

I wasn't in the market for another car particularly, as there is plenty of life left in my old Bug wagon but when Stuart intimated he was looking to move his on, I knew it was too good an opportunity to pass.

The car is a testament to Stuart's meticulous ownership and borderline OCD cleaning

It doesn't want for anything at the moment - which is unusual for a car I buy! Some initial impressions (very much in comparison to my Bug):

Steering seems way lighter - is this a known difference between the years? I do have a smaller steering wheel on my Bug, so maybe this is causing the impression?

Headlights are still rubbish

All the sound deadening in my Bug clearly makes a big difference!

The Meister Rs are better than I had hoped for.

Seats aren't as supportive.


Current plans are to swap the following over from my Bug:

Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel
Complete brake swap (have AP 4 pots on my Bug)
Interior (will get it all steam-cleaned first)
SWRD Fuel pump
Bigger rear ARB
All the stereo

In addition, I need some JDM HID headlights, especially as winter is fast approaching. I'm also not sure about the gear ****. It's nicely weighted but it's a touch too short/low compared to stock. I'll probably raise the ride height a little too.

I've been collecting various performance parts over the last few years (turbo, headers, up/downpipe, exhaust, injectors etc) so I may finally get round to fitting those in the new year.

Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 08 September 2017 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 08 September 2017, 12:44 PM
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Sounds like a nice plan for progression!
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Old 08 September 2017, 01:05 PM
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The central locking is really loud too! Again though, this might just be because I went to town on deadening all the doors on my Bug.
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Old 08 September 2017, 01:53 PM
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Good to see it's going to be looked after!
I can send the original gear stick if you want?
I think the steering rack was updated for the 05 models. I recall when buying the steering rack bushes I needed to be careful about which year it was.
Good luck to you.
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Old 08 September 2017, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG View Post
The central locking is really loud too! Again though, this might just be because I went to town on deadening all the doors on my Bug.

How did you go about doing that on your bug technopoug?
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Old 08 September 2017, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Fishbowlhead View Post
How did you go about doing that on your bug technopoug?
Lots of this: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/silent-coat

Floor, inner and outer door skins (all 4) and inner/outer tailgate skin. For the floor, you should really use a foam barrier layer on top and then a rubber layer on top of that. I wasn't sure if the just doing the floor with deadening would make much difference (although 80% of road noise resonates off the road and up through the floor) but the difference is quite noticeable between the 2 cars.

Doors obviously make a big difference as they'll close with a pleasing thud if you do it properly. Probably not a great idea for a track car as obviously you're adding a fair few kilos in weight. I did mine for my stereo though as I knew the whole car would vibrate like an old tin can otherwise.
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Old 16 September 2017, 04:14 PM
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So first problem today. Short drive into town, as soon as I hit traffic, the revs started bouncing from 500-1500rpm, whether in gear with clutch in or in neutral. Parked for a but to pick up some cleaning. Drove back and all was fine until I stopped at some lights and revs went straight up to 2k and check light came on.

Tried both my ODB2 dongles and neither will connect to the ECU. Running Torque Pro app on Android. Tried one of the dongles on the missus Golf and that worked fine. Had a similar problem with my Bug and that turned out to be a broken wire - easy fix. Typically, I can't now connect to the ECU in my Bug either....

Can you read fault codes on Newages by connecting the twin black plugs, like with the Classics?
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Old 16 September 2017, 04:59 PM
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I can't see any black plugs, so I guess that "no" is the answer.

Checked all the fuses. Can't see any damage or anything amiss at the plug end. Both dongles are drawing power from the port, but light stays red and neither connect to the ECU. Might try buying another dongle perhaps. Otherwise I'm out of ideas...
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Old 17 September 2017, 11:40 AM
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So bought a genuine ELM327 reader, as opposed to the cheap Chinese copies. Got the codes out eventually.

As suspected, P0519-Idle Air Control System Performance and P0507-Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected.
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Old 18 September 2017, 04:03 PM
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Cleaned the IACV this afternoon. It was filthy. No before pics but here it is cleaned:



I didn't separate the plastic switch housing as the bolt heads were rounding. Will take a Dremel to them if needed.

I was intrigued as to why they IACV was so filthy and failing on the new Blob, when my Bug has done 80k more without similar issues. Found the culprit I think:



Cosworth filter on the left from my Bug, KN filter on the right from the Blob. Too much oil, too little oil, not cleaned regularly...who knows. I do have a cleaning and oil kit for KNs but I don't like them, for all the obvious, oily reasons. So ordered another Cosworth filter for the Blob. The MAF was also black on the Blob, whereas the Bug was clean as a whistle (and the Cosworth filter has probably been on for 50k miles!)

Still awaiting gaskets so not been able to prove whether the issue was just a dirty IACV. I've order a pair of gaskets just in case the IACV is terminal, in which case I'll swap over the working one from my Bug (I'll clean the Bug one also, hence 2 gaskets).

I'll try and replace the 2 bolts with some better ones if I can find some suitable in my local hardware store. But they can be used again if not as I managed to undo them without rounding the heads.

Few other things that I've noticed but will save them for their own posts.
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Old 20 September 2017, 02:18 PM
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Parts arrived courtesy of excellent service by ICP as usual



IACV now cleaned, with free moving door, refitted with new gasket. Left to idle for a few minutes and there was still some fluctuation in revs. Gave the throttle a quick blip and revs then settled to normal, solid idle. Need to take it out for an off-boost spin to fully seat the gasket but the fix appears to have worked.

I'd now really like to reset the ECU but I guess that I'm going to have to fork out for a Tactrix cable for that?

Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 20 September 2017 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 20 September 2017, 02:37 PM
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Really glad to hear it was "just" a dirty IACV.
Interesting about the K&N filter. I hadn't considered that as a major source of contamination that far down the inlet. I may have to replace the one I've just put on my Leggy.
Good luck with the wagon.
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Old 20 September 2017, 02:50 PM
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If you look at the photo of the IACV above, in the right hand chamber, there is a valve/door one left. This is what rotates to adjust the air/idle. This was gummed up with oil and therefore wouldn't move. Once cleaned, it will easily move with just pressing a small screwdriver against it.

As I said, I'm intrigued as to why this one had seized, when my Bug has done 80k more and never had similar issues (I will clean that one too - hence why I ordered 2 gaskets).

The K&N clearly has more oily deposits on it than the Cosworth paper element. So unless you spent a lot of time tailgating broken diesels, I can't imagine how else it can get that way, other than the oil being introduced as per the filter requirements. If it was a genuine oil leak further along the inlet, such as from the turbo, I'd expect to see smoke from the exhaust.

I just think that the resuable, oiled filters are a fundamentally bad idea on MAF cars (the MAF was filthy by the way when I checked it). Sure they supposedly save you money by allowing you to clean rather than have to replace but if they cause all manner of other, potentially expensive problems further along the inlet, then they aren't really fit for purpose IMHO.

The Cosworth filter is a bit of an extravagance. I doubt I'd notice much difference with just an OEM paper filter.


I'll pull the one off my Bug and see how bad it is - annoyed that I didn't take a photo of the Blob before cleaning.

Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 20 September 2017 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 20 September 2017, 04:15 PM
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Just been for a quick spin and all good.

Did try to remove the IACV from the Bug but the bolt heads where rounding, so thought better of it.

One thing to note - the Blob bonnets seem much heavier than the Bug's. Are the Bug's alloy?
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Old 20 September 2017, 04:33 PM
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Not sure?
The bonnet on the leggy is much lighter than the blob, despite the extra insulation.
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Old 20 September 2017, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG View Post
Just been for a quick spin and all good.

Did try to remove the IACV from the Bug but the bolt heads where rounding, so thought better of it.

One thing to note - the Blob bonnets seem much heavier than the Bug's. Are the Bug's alloy?
Bug bonnets are aluminium. Not exactly hardy.


Edit. Iíve been wondering about the k&n filters for a while now. I got one a few months ago and itís fine, zero improvement over the paper one I took out. However reading the packaging after I put it in it said itís coated with a special oil that helps filter air passing though it, which you have to re-oil each year to keep performance.

Which got me wondering whether that oil would get into the system, after all a turbo Subaru sucks in a huge amount of air through the filter.

Im thinking of taking it out and putting a paper one back in and simply changing each year.

Last edited by Fishbowlhead; 20 September 2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 01 October 2017, 01:41 PM
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Is this an STi scoop?



Whatever it is, it's been badly fitted. Evidenced by the gaps and random assortment of nuts and screws used to secure it.

Removed with a new application of foam sealant applied.



Refitted. Managed to drop one of the 8mm nuts in the process but it's securely attached.



Rear spoiler has a bit of a wobble too, so will have to address that in due course.
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Old 01 October 2017, 02:01 PM
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The Meister Rs come with adjustable top mounts. The O/S has been set all the way across...



...to achieve an effectively 0 camber wheel...



N/S isn't as bad



So the static camber via the strut is way out.

I presume that the top mounts can be rotated so as to increase castor and thereby add some weight and feel to the steering? Then just set the camber via the struts?

A trip to see Peter Cambridge and get this set up properly is added to the list.
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Old 01 October 2017, 05:50 PM
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Reading this thread is a bit like watching an old girlfriend get a haircut, join a gym and get promoted...
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Old 01 October 2017, 06:09 PM
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I think that's all to be honest, other than the bonnet lock needs cleaning, greasing and adjusting (they all do at some point).

I want to raise it up slightly but I'll do that when I swap the brakes over. Other than that, I haven't been able to find any other faults with it so far.

Still think I'll splash out on some JDM HIDs in the future. The stock lights are better than the Bug but they still aren't up to scratch for making progress at night. I have found a pair but the trader wants £450 for them. I'm thinking that £400 is a more reasonable price.

If it was all perfect, I'd have to find some other excuse for getting out of the house
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Old 01 October 2017, 06:41 PM
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Good reading

How are the Meisters? I'm on KYB shocks with prodrive springs and considering the Meisters if I get the notorious knocking rear shocks. I don't want something too harsh for the rough roads around here though.
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Old 01 October 2017, 07:11 PM
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Excel Gs with Prodrive (PCA) Blues has been the best of the 3 set-ups I've tried IMO.

The problem with that setup though is that the KYBs are perfectly matched to the springs when they are NEW. As they age, they soften and their performance deteriorates. Noticeable after 30k, shot by 40k.

So not wanting to keep replacing them (although a lot would depend upon mileage) I replaced the KYBs on my Bug with Koni Inserts. Reason being is that they are adjustable, so I can keep tightening them up as they age.

That's the theory. The reality is though that new, on the softest setting, they are too stiff (for my liking) for the springs. So like a fine wine they will get better with age but I don't know how long that will take....they may be better suited to the higher rate "red" springs.

What attracted me to the Meisters was that you can set them softer than stock, so they have a wide range of adjustment - handy with a little one on the way.

However, if you set them in comfort mode, whilst the compression is great, the rebound is too soft. So the springs oscillate and you get an unpleasant wave effect. Playing about with the settings at the moment, turning stiffness one notch at time for a few days whilst driving on familiar roads. Haven't found the sweet spot yet. My concern is that in order to get the rebound just right, it may result in the compression causing too stiff a ride (rebound & compression adjusted jointly).

The other thing that has crossed my mind whilst driving today, is that it may be the springs which are the weak link. I believe that they are 6kg front/5kg rear? I don't know what the spring rates are on the Blues but I'm sure that is the key to their great comfort/performance ratio. I might ask Peter Cambridge but I'm not sure if he'll tell me to be honest.
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Old 30 October 2017, 01:38 PM
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Raise the ride height at the weekend. Set it the same as my Bug on PCA blues - need about a 20mm lift.



Couldn't get my trolley jack under the front for a start and it should handle the winter roads better. Plus I think the roll centre was effected with it sitting as low as it was.

Now raised up:



I'll let it settle for a few weeks and then tweek it when I do the brake swap. The fronts were easy enough but the rears were a little seized and needed some persuasion.

I noticed that there was some corrosion on the wheel hubs, so they will need to be sanded done and then copper grease applied (always do this when putting wheels on).

Thinking about some mudflaps as it's getting filthy fast. Rally Armour the ones to go for?

Also, the top clip on the centre vents above the radio looks broken as it doesn't clip in and sit flush. Guess it's been removed at some point? I'm thinking about swapping in the one from my 02 as I prefer the drinks holder position there, rather than down by the gearstick. I no it's popular to swap the later trim to the earlier models, so I'm presuming that it works the other way? Only thing is I'm pretty sure the silver is a different shade, so I may be making a whole load of extra work for myself if I need to respray all the trim....

Finally, I posted a thread in General Tech about differences in PAS/Rack systems across the Newage, to try to establish why my Bug is heavier and what, if anything can be done to replicate it on the Blob. Not had a reply yet but I have discovered that the PAS pumps are different on the 02 and 05s.

Yet to determine if the assistance they provide is actually different but I have the option to swap them over. I've pretty much ruled out the rack as being the cause, as although there are numerous part number iterations across the Newages, the WRXs are all the same ratio - so that can't be the difference between mine (although the later 05 like mine I believe, has a different mounting cross member).

Bug is due for it's MoT on Thursday. 178k young, so don't foresee any problems, other than the horn has stopped working. So that's the priority right now. Have checked the relays and fuses, so don't think it's that. First thing I'll try is swapping the original Momo wheel back on as the horn-push mechanism on my fitted Momo Monte Carlo has always been suspect.
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Old 30 October 2017, 01:46 PM
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Also to add, I've settled on 10 front, 8 rear for the Meister R coilovers. That seems to be the best compromise I can manage for a flat-ride. I'd like to go softer on the compression but the rebound is just too slow, going less than 8 and the springs take too long to settle and the car bounces around. It's acceptable but not as good as the PCA springs/KYB/Koni set up, which settles much quicker and the car is always planted. The Meisters just don't seem to handle bumps when cornering as well (as least that's the sensation from the driver's seat). I have a thicker rear ARB to go on which may (or may not) have a positive impact. I have the suspicion that springs are the weakest link, rather than the shocks and their settings.

I still have the option of swapping the Bug PCA/Koni set up across. But the Koni's are still a little too hard on the softest setting. Plus it's hassle - both time and cost as I'd have to get both cars aligned again.
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Old 06 November 2017, 06:30 PM
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So had to cancel the MoT for the Bug, as still not got the horns working. I swapped the horns onto the Blob and confirmed they both work. I then swapped the engine bay fuses over and no issue there. Struggling to identify the bloody fuse under the dash though. And the fault may still lie in the wiring somewhere.....

So thought I would try something productive with what was left of the light. The bonnet on the Blob has never closed properly - requiring several bangs to fully shut. So I turned my attention to that.

Firstly, the lock mechanism was in need of a bit of a clean...



All stripped and cleaned and some liberal copper grease applied:



Refitted:



It should be noted that the 3 three mounting holes are oval, not round. This allows you to adjust the height of the mechanism. It had been attached at the lowest setting. Meaning the bonnet struggled to fully engage when closed. I refitted it at the highest setting and now it closes first time, without any force required.

A simple but satisfying fix.
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Old 07 November 2017, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Fishbowlhead View Post

Edit. I’ve been wondering about the k&n filters for a while now. I got one a few months ago and it’s fine, zero improvement over the paper one I took out. However reading the packaging after I put it in it said it’s coated with a special oil that helps filter air passing though it, which you have to re-oil each year to keep performance.

Which got me wondering whether that oil would get into the system, after all a turbo Subaru sucks in a huge amount of air through the filter.

Im thinking of taking it out and putting a paper one back in and simply changing each year.
Excess oil from a K&N filter is only likely to affect the MAF. They only need re-oiling when you clean it and as they say, that can be anything upto 50K miles before it needs doing.
https://www.knfilters.co.uk/news/news.aspx?id=5332

A more constant source of oil vapour in the inlet track would be the PCV system where crankcase and header breathers return "oily" air to the turbo inlet.
Hence the use of catch cans or air/oil separators




The best place to look for excess oil is in the intercooler where most of it "drops out" of suspension.
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Old 20 November 2017, 07:40 PM
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Found this thread again by total chance. Great read so far and will follow the progress avidly since your car is very very very similar to mine.


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Old 22 November 2017, 12:03 PM
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That looks very nice Hassen.
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Old 22 November 2017, 12:08 PM
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With winter fast approaching and a little one taking up all my free time, I'm having to put the mechanical jobs on hold until the new year I fear.

However, I have managed to finally track down some JDM HID headlights at a sensible price. I'm hoping that I can modify my Bugeye loom from Lightwerkz to fit, otherwise I'll have to make one from scratch. I didn't need to rewire the height adjustment motors on my Bug, as the headlights have manual adjustment. It looks like the Blobeye ones don't, so I imagine that I'll need to get busy with a soldering iron.

The Bugeye use projectors, whereas the Blobeye has a more traditional reflector. It will be interesting to see if there is an appreciable difference between the 2.
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Old 22 November 2017, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG View Post
That looks very nice Hassen.
Thanks man. I bought Meister R coils after your car's previous keeper had them installed. Absolutely love them and completely transformed the ride. Your's looks spot on. Got any more plans for your car next?
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