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//www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Universal-Carbon-Fibre-Front-Splitter-Kit__CMUNSPLT00
I have been looking at this one , but as you say its got be proven , not sure if the link will work , not sure if the splitter will work .
//www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Universal-Carbon-Fibre-Front-Splitter-Kit__CMUNSPLT00
I have been looking at this one , but as you say its got be proven , not sure if the link will work , not sure if the splitter will work .
I would think for any serious track work it needs to be fairly substantle.
I know mines going to take some abuse and have seen carbon fly off everywhere at the time attack events over the last couple of years.
Thats why im going with a ply one... Will test it and then get one covered in carbon/kevlar etc.
One thing ive learned is not to use marine ply. Birch ply is stronger as its laid one way then 90degress the other within its layers 😉
Hi all, was sick of my headlights letting the car down , i did de tango them in the summer and black the inside frame but the outside lenses have just got worse , so today i set about putting that right, i got a headlight restoration kit to do the job,
before,
first stage,
should have covered the car first,
and all done ,
car washed too, look a lot better in my opinion , took about 3 hours in all and an aching back too,
So much better than the rattly OEM. I feel like my gears have improved? Sounds bizarre but heard something about a rattling oem one keeps reverse lifted a little causing it to catch. Only thing now is to get a new gear gator as mines too loose. Get yours here:
I got the weather strips for a steal off a breaker
£20 collected and they looked brand new.
worth the 80miles tbh.
I won't get wind deflectors again. I still have my old strips that may turn good after sanding the tape off.
The rubber door trims were from America and the black strips on the sides were from Japan.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.scoobynet.com-vbulletin/579x435/20201019_154557_9d27c2de64308a619f220838ed480dcf94 934513.jpg
Is there a reason why you guys use the kazz over say a quafe lsd diff. I think one is a clutch type and the other is geared.
I have to admit I am not the most qualified person when it comes to diffs. I was recommended a kazz diff from a number of sources hence my decision to run with it.
The kazz diff is a plated diff and so will keep the torque applied to both wheels regardless of traction. The quaife is a geared diff which will send the torque to the wheel with least resistance, so say if you have one wheel on ice and the other on tarmac, the wheel on ice will get more torque sent to it. Hence the plated lsd being more suited to track use and the geared diff more suited to road use. At least this is my basic understanding and I’m sure that some Googling will come up with more informative answers, but I can’t wait to try it out
Last edited by IainMilford; Feb 6, 2021 at 03:50 PM.
I have to admit I am not the most qualified person when it comes to diffs. I was recommended a kazz diff from a number of sources hence my decision to run with it.
The kazz diff is a plated diff and so will keep the torque applied to both wheels regardless of traction. The quaife is a geared diff which will send the torque to the wheel with least resistance, so say if you have one wheel on ice and the other on tarmac, the wheel on ice will get more torque sent to it. Hence the plated lsd being more suited to track use and the geared diff more suited to road use. At least this is my basic understanding and I’m sure that some Googling will come up with more informative answers, but I can’t wait to try it out
Hi all, was sick of my headlights letting the car down , i did de tango them in the summer and black the inside frame but the outside lenses have just got worse , so today i set about putting that right, i got a headlight restoration kit to do the job,
before,
first stage,
should have covered the car first,
and all done ,
car washed too, look a lot better in my opinion , took about 3 hours in all and an aching back too,
only just saw this mate, look a million times better 👍👍
looks fantastic under there, my next “major spend” will be to get the underside refreshed and preserved as it’s a major issue with our cars now
Thanks, they are all getting on a bit now and the undercarriage’s do suffer. Prepare for some stubborn bolts!! But is such a worthwhile job once done and new bolts makes it easy to work on the rear when you need to get it apart
Thanks, they are all getting on a bit now and the undercarriage’s do suffer. Prepare for some stubborn bolts!! But is such a worthwhile job once done and new bolts makes it easy to work on the rear when you need to get it apart
Just your advice please Ian,
ive got the “old” underseal from new in certain places like the rear sturrets etc and on the underside of the car so I know it’s ok but how easy is it to remove? I’d like it resealed again but the factory underseal looks stubborn to remove? when I spray the black dinotrol it’s nowhere near as thick?
Just your advice please Ian,
ive got the “old” underseal from new in certain places like the rear sturrets etc and on the underside of the car so I know it’s ok but how easy is it to remove? I’d like it resealed again but the factory underseal looks stubborn to remove? when I spray the black dinotrol it’s nowhere near as thick?
I’m lucky that my car is garaged so it’s not something I have ever done, although I did look into it a while back. From what I saw (you tube videos and the like) to do it properly is not a particularly easy job. You will need to grind it off using a drill attachment or similar. A lot of hours spent lying on your back involved in removing it !
Thanks Ian, I certainly won’t be doing that so I may just refresh the areas where it has came off. Also replace some rusty bits then sand down, protect and respray other bits so it all looks fresh 👍