Got a survey done on a house I put an offer in for.
01 December 2016, 07:03 PM
#32
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Nope - it won't
Buildings insurance will cover fire, flood damage (provided you're not in a high risk flood area) damage from bust pipes, storm damage, certain accidental damage to the fabric of the building and so forth. It won't cover a pre existing defect that you don't know about on purchase.
Buildings insurance will cover fire, flood damage (provided you're not in a high risk flood area) damage from bust pipes, storm damage, certain accidental damage to the fabric of the building and so forth. It won't cover a pre existing defect that you don't know about on purchase.
01 December 2016, 07:07 PM
#33
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I checked out some other terraces in the area and one or two are same with the old sill spaces filled in with bricks, although not rendered. The sill doesn't bear loads as I understand it?
01 December 2016, 07:09 PM
#34
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I had some building work done last year, and there was some bare render left over, it had a few initial cracks - just cosmetic
but the builders said get some paint on otherwise the water will get in and freeze etc
01 December 2016, 07:42 PM
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Cement-sand render? I've read this can be an issue on older solid wall houses since it locks water in and is very rigid. But then you can read all sorts on the internet.
01 December 2016, 08:45 PM
#36
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so why not sand/cement render
03 December 2016, 05:28 PM
#37
100% this does happen . dpc(damp proof coarse) .there is usually facing brick below dpc and render above .
If render is put below the dpc to ground level damp rises up behind it ,it freezes and expands and will burst lumps of render off the wall.
It does look like rain water has been running down that side im not sure it would cause the render to crack that way .
Are the walls solid with no cavity ? Is the inside plastered directly onto the wall or is it on strapping with lath and plaster .
Obviously you would only see a crack on the inside if the brickwork is solid and plastered directly onto it.
Again whatever caused it i dont think its anything major to worry about . Hurry up and buy it and pull that render of im curious to see what its like behind
If render is put below the dpc to ground level damp rises up behind it ,it freezes and expands and will burst lumps of render off the wall.
It does look like rain water has been running down that side im not sure it would cause the render to crack that way .
Are the walls solid with no cavity ? Is the inside plastered directly onto the wall or is it on strapping with lath and plaster .
Obviously you would only see a crack on the inside if the brickwork is solid and plastered directly onto it.
Again whatever caused it i dont think its anything major to worry about . Hurry up and buy it and pull that render of im curious to see what its like behind
Last edited by gary77; 03 December 2016 at 06:04 PM.
03 December 2016, 10:15 PM
#38
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100% this does happen . dpc(damp proof coarse) .there is usually facing brick below dpc and render above .
If render is put below the dpc to ground level damp rises up behind it ,it freezes and expands and will burst lumps of render off the wall.
It does look like rain water has been running down that side im not sure it would cause the render to crack that way .
Are the walls solid with no cavity ? Is the inside plastered directly onto the wall or is it on strapping with lath and plaster .
Obviously you would only see a crack on the inside if the brickwork is solid and plastered directly onto it.
Again whatever caused it i dont think its anything major to worry about . Hurry up and buy it and pull that render of im curious to see what its like behind
If render is put below the dpc to ground level damp rises up behind it ,it freezes and expands and will burst lumps of render off the wall.
It does look like rain water has been running down that side im not sure it would cause the render to crack that way .
Are the walls solid with no cavity ? Is the inside plastered directly onto the wall or is it on strapping with lath and plaster .
Obviously you would only see a crack on the inside if the brickwork is solid and plastered directly onto it.
Again whatever caused it i dont think its anything major to worry about . Hurry up and buy it and pull that render of im curious to see what its like behind
I was looking on google street view at many rendered houses in my area and many have some cracking.
Something cropped up and I discovered this planning regulation though:
https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/18/external_walls/2
Where 25 per cent or more of an external wall is re-rendered, re-clad, re-plastered or re-lined internally or where 25 per cent or more of the external leaf of a wall is rebuilt, the regulations would normally apply and the thermal insulation would normally have to be improved.
Where 25 per cent or more of an external wall is re-rendered, re-clad, re-plastered or re-lined internally or where 25 per cent or more of the external leaf of a wall is rebuilt, the regulations would normally apply and the thermal insulation would normally have to be improved.
04 December 2016, 05:01 AM
#39
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On another forum someone said the water can accumulate around the sills and seep in and then you get the cracking over time due to cold etc. It's apparently possible to modify sills a little to promotes drips but I'm not sure how.
I was looking on google street view at many rendered houses in my area and many have some cracking.
Something cropped up and I discovered this planning regulation though:
So basically if you hack all the render off a wall, you are supposed to fit external thermal cladding on any solid walls. It looks like total **** of course. It might be possible to get the council to let you not do this? I dunno, but if so it looks like a repair would be the way to go instead of hack off and replace, to save the cost and ugliness of the thermal cladding.
I was looking on google street view at many rendered houses in my area and many have some cracking.
Something cropped up and I discovered this planning regulation though:
So basically if you hack all the render off a wall, you are supposed to fit external thermal cladding on any solid walls. It looks like total **** of course. It might be possible to get the council to let you not do this? I dunno, but if so it looks like a repair would be the way to go instead of hack off and replace, to save the cost and ugliness of the thermal cladding.
I believe that you put a small groove underneath the bottom edge of the sill to encourage drips to form.
Cheers
Steve
04 December 2016, 07:33 AM
#40
On another forum someone said the water can accumulate around the sills and seep in and then you get the cracking over time due to cold etc. It's apparently possible to modify sills a little to promotes drips but I'm not sure how.
I was looking on google street view at many rendered houses in my area and many have some cracking.
Something cropped up and I discovered this planning regulation though:
So basically if you hack all the render off a wall, you are supposed to fit external thermal cladding on any solid walls. It looks like total **** of course. It might be possible to get the council to let you not do this? I dunno, but if so it looks like a repair would be the way to go instead of hack off and replace, to save the cost and ugliness of the thermal cladding.
I was looking on google street view at many rendered houses in my area and many have some cracking.
Something cropped up and I discovered this planning regulation though:
So basically if you hack all the render off a wall, you are supposed to fit external thermal cladding on any solid walls. It looks like total **** of course. It might be possible to get the council to let you not do this? I dunno, but if so it looks like a repair would be the way to go instead of hack off and replace, to save the cost and ugliness of the thermal cladding.
They say it really seals the heat in and you won't get any damp or mould, I have used just the mesh and skimmed on a wall I was having damp/mould problems with, I also painted it with mould resistant paint just to be sure.although they said I didn't need to, but for the sake of an extra few quid, I went with the belt and braces approach.
04 December 2016, 08:49 AM
#41
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Out here in Croatia they use 5cm x 50cm x 1m Polystyrene then put a fine plastic mesh on top to stop cracks like you do with plaster board gaps, then skim with flexible waterproof tile adhesive, it's the new big thing out here for facades, this can be done inside as well.
They say it really seals the heat in and you won't get any damp or mould, I have used just the mesh and skimmed on a wall I was having damp/mould problems with, I also painted it with mould resistant paint just to be sure.although they said I didn't need to, but for the sake of an extra few quid, I went with the belt and braces approach.
They say it really seals the heat in and you won't get any damp or mould, I have used just the mesh and skimmed on a wall I was having damp/mould problems with, I also painted it with mould resistant paint just to be sure.although they said I didn't need to, but for the sake of an extra few quid, I went with the belt and braces approach.
stuck a load of 8inch deep blocks all over the exterior, cut them to fit around doors/windows - then rendered over the top
worth noting that cavity walls were originally used to prevent damp, not for warmth/insulation
06 December 2016, 11:51 AM
#42
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