2.35, 2.4, or 2.5 Stroker
EJ22 blocks fail the l/h casing mated to sequential boxes very often, the Banana split its block last year, Dale Gents race winning circuit car also, now a 2.0 thick bore scd block, a Polish drag car, all in the water crossover tube into the centre head stud area, first sign is a puddle of coolant sitting in the block webs.
We have run a SCD thick bore 2.0 block on the same race car all season without this issue arising, my own opinion is the lack of the extra 4 bolts on the early blocks to the g/box bellhousing causing the block to flex, there is also evidence of this by fretting between the box & engine.
Cannot run none OE blocks in this MSA race series, it is also now capped at 2.0, no 2.35's in MSA race events.
Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Originally Posted by juggers
FK ME SIDEWAYS £8k for the block!
Ha.
As David Brent would say:
"Where's your cut-off point?"
Last edited by joz8968; Nov 13, 2016 at 08:52 AM.
Look for 2.1, 2.35 or 2.5 and get a tried and tested unit.
Originally Posted by juggers
How do I rename the thread???
Open the thread in the web version, edit post, go to 'Go Advanced', change title.
Thing is the title won't show as being edited in the list of threads in the actual forum.
You only see it's changed when you open the thread. 
Last edited by joz8968; Nov 13, 2016 at 09:58 AM.
Originally Posted by juggers
...So many variables and different options - I assumed the big ticket items would be pistons, rods, crank and turbo kit and 10k-£15k would build me a cracking engine. 
Yep. Juggers (Immy, isn't it?), you're becoming 'seduced' -- like a Magpie does over shiny sh¡t.
You most certainly do not NEED an 8k block. Ever.
Stick to decent brands of T&T forged pistons/rods; 2.0, 2.1 or 2.35; updated mains/bigs bearings (ACL Race?); 14mm studs (ARP?)...etc, etc....
Last edited by joz8968; Nov 13, 2016 at 10:02 AM.
If you're going for 550 then you can get that on a built bottom end and standard heads, i.e. Standard cams but all being checked over etc which will work out a cheaper option.
Last edited by IainMilford; Nov 13, 2016 at 11:39 AM.
Ok so I guess 2.35 is the route to go and it looks as though the Subaru 79mm heat treated 2.5 crank is good and the billet crank is just over kill and no significant gains will be seen?
You really are going to end up costing yourself a fortune with this for absolutely no benefit what so ever at this rate....
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
You really are going to end up costing yourself a fortune with this for absolutely no benefit what so ever at this rate....
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
Interested to see what Alyn has to say about the billet crank before I make my final decision if it doesn't justify the extra £1500 for the billet crank then I will most likely go for the heat treated crank. I think
Last edited by juggers; Nov 14, 2016 at 08:50 AM.
You really are going to end up costing yourself a fortune with this for absolutely no benefit what so ever at this rate....
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
A 2.2 block is 1400quid as opposed to 300quid for a 2.0 cdb etc, results can be had out of a 2.1 that match a 2.35.
It does sound like you are after spending money for spending moneys sake, not actually if it needs it...
As has been mentioned a standard nitrided or heat treated crank will do you needs perfectly, no need to waste money on a billet one. Standard ones have been proven at over 800hp in far harsher conditions than you will be throwing at it. I run a standard crank at 550ish hp on my car and have done for years. I beat its head in every time I go out in it and its never missed a beat...
You will have dual avcs if i am not mistaken and twinscroll if its a jdm? So no need to go rotated, a decent owen developments or lm500 etc will fo everything you need from it...
Would keep away from owens development if I were you... never again
Juggers,
No need for a billet crank at all. I've got the 2012 OEM heat treated crank in my sleeved 2.5. Making over 600 at the wheels so a tad over 700 at the flywheel. It's done almost 10,000 miles now since I built it and I use the car every single day.
Turbo wise, if can you afford to go rotated I would as it opens up much more options.
I've a GTX35R on mine but if I was looking now it would be one of the Precision offerings without a doubt.
Forums are strange places for advice with often conflicting information. But everyone here is saying no need to go billet crank. I'd pay attention to that. It's good advice
Good luck with the build.
No need for a billet crank at all. I've got the 2012 OEM heat treated crank in my sleeved 2.5. Making over 600 at the wheels so a tad over 700 at the flywheel. It's done almost 10,000 miles now since I built it and I use the car every single day.
Turbo wise, if can you afford to go rotated I would as it opens up much more options.
I've a GTX35R on mine but if I was looking now it would be one of the Precision offerings without a doubt.
Forums are strange places for advice with often conflicting information. But everyone here is saying no need to go billet crank. I'd pay attention to that. It's good advice
Good luck with the build.
Last edited by dazdavies; Nov 14, 2016 at 11:52 AM.
