I Thought it was a noisy forged build but now I'm not sure?
#95
I'm still non the wiser to what this knocking is,I think a trip to the specialists is the only thing to do now.
I have a video clip of the noise,maybe someone can't identify the problem from this clip?
Cheers
Rich
I have a video clip of the noise,maybe someone can't identify the problem from this clip?
Cheers
Rich
Last edited by ossett2k2; 04 March 2016 at 08:47 AM.
#97
V3 STI heads so am I correct in thinking these have solid lifters with under bucket shims?
The noise is only coming from the LH bank so looks like taking off the head would be the only way to confirm this,or would just taking off the cam cover do to diagnose the problem?
#100
that does not sound good tbh. that said I missed the sleeve out of the belt tensioner during my build. when I fired it up it sounded like the dreaded knock. i was heartbroken! the next day with a clear head I spotted the error once I had the belt cover off and once I put the sleve back in the tensioner it was fine. defo worth checking all is well on the belt and tensioner/pulleys.
#101
that does not sound good tbh. that said I missed the sleeve out of the belt tensioner during my build. when I fired it up it sounded like the dreaded knock. i was heartbroken! the next day with a clear head I spotted the error once I had the belt cover off and once I put the sleve back in the tensioner it was fine. defo worth checking all is well on the belt and tensioner/pulleys.
New timing belt kit fitted correctly,was knocking before that,thought it could have been the tensioner but sadly not.
Doesn't sound like the dreaded bottom end knock tho,noise doesn't increase with revs and no knock heard when coming off throttle.
Sounds like the noise is from the top of cyl 4 cam side so will take the advice of MOTORS S GT and check this next.
Last edited by ossett2k2; 03 March 2016 at 08:12 PM. Reason: Got my firing order wrong.
#103
Thanks for advice and support.
I checked valve clearance on the noisy LH head and results came back as very tight on all valves.
Should be 0.20mm intake and 0.25 exhaust,I got between 0.10-0.05mm.
Engine is coming out on Monday to re-shim,so with any luck this should sort the problem and get the car running well again.
Oil pressure is very good and compression test came back being not too bad.
I will update next week with some good news I hope
#104
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
i do see a lot of peeps fitting or rebuilding bottom ends in cars without taking the time to check the condition of the head ,cams,or valvetrain ,if the heads were built/setup 30k miles ago they,d still be good as new .
everyone seems to expect to tune/improve quite elderly 90s cars into 400brake monsters with teeny weeny budgets lol (i know i did lolll)
everyone seems to expect to tune/improve quite elderly 90s cars into 400brake monsters with teeny weeny budgets lol (i know i did lolll)
#105
Seems like this could be the case with mine,forged bottom end with the old heads put back on without a refresh?
Only had the car 6 month and it's giving me grief!
I don't want to take the heads off,so a re-shim to get the heads into spec should give me a bit of life
Only had the car 6 month and it's giving me grief!
I don't want to take the heads off,so a re-shim to get the heads into spec should give me a bit of life
#106
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
tell me about it
thats the trouble with buying some one elses "project" . got caught myself big time with a special chy wright creation .after it blew up(literally) the only thing zen salvaged from the old engine was 4 camshfts and the cd block lol the engine had done a whole 12k miles deeply impressive eh
i spose considering how cheapish 2.1 bottom ends are now its not worth buying someone elses "project" unless a well known tuner/builder has put it together .easy to spend thousands just having standard engines repaired/rebuilt as it is
thats the trouble with buying some one elses "project" . got caught myself big time with a special chy wright creation .after it blew up(literally) the only thing zen salvaged from the old engine was 4 camshfts and the cd block lol the engine had done a whole 12k miles deeply impressive eh
i spose considering how cheapish 2.1 bottom ends are now its not worth buying someone elses "project" unless a well known tuner/builder has put it together .easy to spend thousands just having standard engines repaired/rebuilt as it is
#110
Heads are now re-shimmed and all valve clearance in spec now,engine put back together,so just got to drop it back in and fasten everything up
Really praying all this sorts out the knocking and running issues!
Some of the clearances were as tight as 0.03mm so I'm still feeling positive.
#111
Re-shimmed,got the clearance back,0.20mm inlet 0.25mm exhaust.
The original knocking seems to have gone,car idles like a dream,drives nice,3bar hot oil pressure on idle.
Car is now tappity as fukc on both heads!!! What the hell?????
From all the info I have read on here we set the valve clearance To 0.20mm inlet and 0.25mm exhaust. Also the data says we had a 0.12mm tolerance before we would notice any tappet knock.
What have we done wrong? Is the info we have on valve clearance wrong for my car?
Looks like the engine will have to come back out so we can tighten back up the clearance!
Gutted to say the least!
The original knocking seems to have gone,car idles like a dream,drives nice,3bar hot oil pressure on idle.
Car is now tappity as fukc on both heads!!! What the hell?????
From all the info I have read on here we set the valve clearance To 0.20mm inlet and 0.25mm exhaust. Also the data says we had a 0.12mm tolerance before we would notice any tappet knock.
What have we done wrong? Is the info we have on valve clearance wrong for my car?
Looks like the engine will have to come back out so we can tighten back up the clearance!
Gutted to say the least!
#112
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
where are you getting the clearance info from ?
I got this
Valve clearance:
Intake: 0.20+0.04-0.06 mm (0.0079+0.0016 or -0.024 in)
Exhaust: 0.35±0.05 mm (0.0138±0.0020 in)
from here,
http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manua...0Clearance.pdf
Might be worth asking about or confirming to save the engine coming out a 3rd time,
Im sure one of the builders would help you out with such information.
I got this
Valve clearance:
Intake: 0.20+0.04-0.06 mm (0.0079+0.0016 or -0.024 in)
Exhaust: 0.35±0.05 mm (0.0138±0.0020 in)
from here,
http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manua...0Clearance.pdf
Might be worth asking about or confirming to save the engine coming out a 3rd time,
Im sure one of the builders would help you out with such information.
Last edited by JDM_Stig; 24 March 2016 at 10:08 PM.
#113
Got my info from this thread
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...clearance.html
And from merlin24 plus Alyn at AS performance,so I'm pretty sure that 0.20&0.25 are the correct spec,that's what I don't get?
I will have a read of the ken Gilbert link cheers but 0.35mm is bigger so don't think that can be right for my car?
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...clearance.html
And from merlin24 plus Alyn at AS performance,so I'm pretty sure that 0.20&0.25 are the correct spec,that's what I don't get?
I will have a read of the ken Gilbert link cheers but 0.35mm is bigger so don't think that can be right for my car?
#114
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
where are you getting the clearance info from ?
I got this
Valve clearance:
Intake: 0.20+0.04-0.06 mm (0.0079+0.0016 or -0.024 in)
Exhaust: 0.35±0.05 mm (0.0138±0.0020 in)
from here,
http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manua...0Clearance.pdf
Might be worth asking about or confirming to save the engine coming out a 3rd time,
Im sure one of the builders would help you out with such information.
I got this
Valve clearance:
Intake: 0.20+0.04-0.06 mm (0.0079+0.0016 or -0.024 in)
Exhaust: 0.35±0.05 mm (0.0138±0.0020 in)
from here,
http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manua...0Clearance.pdf
Might be worth asking about or confirming to save the engine coming out a 3rd time,
Im sure one of the builders would help you out with such information.
Mick
#118
Update:
So it turns out the original knocking was still there on the LH side after the reshimming.
But the LH clearance was good so why was it still noisy?
Well I took it for a drive around the block and the noise got a little louder,followed by a crack,the noise then went from a valve train sounding knock into a bottom end letting go knock Guessing I was mistaken when I thought it was top end knock!
So the engine's coming back out and thanks to a very kind member on here(johnlogie) I have a bottom end on its way to my house,this should get me back on the road when I put my heads etc on there
I will put my block in the garage and split it to see what failed(and if it's actually a forged short block?) if it's worth it then I will rebuild over the summer.
I'm no engine builder that's for sure,but with all the info on here and members that are so helpful then I think,,if I take my time and follow the advice then I should be able to build a good reliable engine
So it turns out the original knocking was still there on the LH side after the reshimming.
But the LH clearance was good so why was it still noisy?
Well I took it for a drive around the block and the noise got a little louder,followed by a crack,the noise then went from a valve train sounding knock into a bottom end letting go knock Guessing I was mistaken when I thought it was top end knock!
So the engine's coming back out and thanks to a very kind member on here(johnlogie) I have a bottom end on its way to my house,this should get me back on the road when I put my heads etc on there
I will put my block in the garage and split it to see what failed(and if it's actually a forged short block?) if it's worth it then I will rebuild over the summer.
I'm no engine builder that's for sure,but with all the info on here and members that are so helpful then I think,,if I take my time and follow the advice then I should be able to build a good reliable engine
#119
Why not just send it to someone that knows what they are doing the labour proper builds charge is nothing if you are guving them a engine and then fitting it yourself.