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Why not just send it to someone that knows what they are doing the labour proper builds charge is nothing if you are guving them a engine and then fitting it yourself.
No disrespect pal but I hardly think a rebuild costs "nothing"
As I've said,I'll be putting my heads on the donor block for now and see if mine is worth a rebuild,if it is then I will be rebuilding it
Originally Posted by johnlogie
No probs Rich. Hope you get it back up and running soon
Thanks mate,you have been a massive help.
I'm from the same school of thought as you,I would help anyone out if I could as I've had plenty of people help me out in the past
Thanks to you I will be up and running sooner than I thought
Quick update:
I took the engine out again today,quiet pleased with myself as I did it in under 3hrs and on my own this time
The smiles didn't last too long tho!
Got it onto the engine stand and decided the 1st thing was to drain the oil,checked for signs of bearing material in the oil but nothing
Then took a look at the drain hole and there it was,a big piece of metal,I can only assume it's part of a piston,it was too big to pull through the hole so not 100% sure what it is but pretty sure it's piston.
I had to pack in shortly but was curious to know what it was and how much was in there.
Unfortunately I struggled to get the first exhaust manifold nut off,didn't want to break the nut so I've squirted some WD40 on and left it until tomorrow,if it still won't budge I will go buy a blow torch and use a bit of heat,hope this bloody manifold doesn't give me too much pain,guess it's all part of the fun
I will put some pics up tomorrow of the offending article,if I manage to get this suborn mani off,will get the heads off too so I can really find out it this engines been forged.
Cheers
Rich
Last edited by ossett2k2; 23 April 2016 at 09:22 PM.
That doesn't sound good mate. Hopefully not too much damage
Cheers mate.
Still had good oil pressure,compression test wasn't too bad and the original noise sounded valve train related.
Just goes to show things aren't always what they seem,tough lesson but it all adds to the experience I suppose.
I will get the heads on your donor block and just take my time splitting mine to see the full damage.
Cheers mate.
Still had good oil pressure,compression test wasn't too bad and the original noise sounded valve train related.
Just goes to show things aren't always what they seem,tough lesson but it all adds to the experience I suppose.
I will get the heads on your donor block and just take my time splitting mine to see the full damage.
Maybe part of a big end bearing? get the sump off and have a gander
With any luck sump will be off tomorrow,was trying to get the manifold of first.
I hear what your saying @just me,WD40 isn't great stuff,I will see if I can get hold of some Innotec Deblock,need the car running soon tho so I might just have to try the heat treatment?
I've never had a manifold bolt snap. It might remove the stud but thats not an issue. A bit of heat wouldn't do any harm
I have got some new nuts and studs to go on,the ones that are on there have signs of starting to round off,looks like the recent(ish) EL manifold was put on using old nuts and fitted by a butcher lol
Ahh not so good. I had a similar issue a couple of days ago while changing my coilovers. I ended up welding a spanner to the bottom rear strut nuts to get them off. A right pain in the ***
Will see how I get on tomorrow,I don't have welding gear but I suppose I could get the angle grinder on em as a last resort,hopefully it won't come to that.
Only managed to get 2 of the 6 manifold nuts off
They were pretty rounded off to start with,now even worse,my mechanic mate is coming over next week so he will be able to sort it.
On a plus note,when I took the turbo off it turns out that the SC42 twin scroll does have a billet wheel(wasn't sure if it had)
I did manage to drop the sump low enough so I could get my hand in there and fish out the pieces of metal,pretty sure it's piston now as shown in the pics,also looks like they're pretty mashed up so I'm guessing the bores are going in a bad way.
So a little bit of progress this morning.
Managed to get the stubborn exhaust bolts off,picked the threads,a bit of decent release oil and a decent 6 sided socket on a big breaker bar and they popped off nicely
Sump off and found a few more big pieces of piston,also worryingly the oil pick up had a fair bit of black silicone in there,not saying this caused my problems but am sure it won't of helped! Previous owner had the rocker cover gaskets done by a specialist and they had caked it in black silicone!
Also can anyone identify by the numbers if these Conrods are standard?
Heads are coming off shortly but I fear the exploding piston may have damaged the head which will be a nightmare.
So a little bit of progress this morning.
Managed to get the stubborn exhaust bolts off,picked the threads,a bit of decent release oil and a decent 6 sided socket on a big breaker bar and they popped off nicely
Sump off and found a few more big pieces of piston,also worryingly the oil pick up had a fair bit of black silicone in there,not saying this caused my problems but am sure it won't of helped! Previous owner had the rocker cover gaskets done by a specialist and they had caked it in black silicone!
Also can anyone identify by the numbers if these Conrods are standard?
Heads are coming off shortly but I fear the exploding piston may have damaged the head which will be a nightmare.
Cheers
Rich
Hi Rich,
If it's piston skirt material the heads should be fine.
If it's valve contact or piston ring lands the head could be dead.
I'd say that the block is scrap though looking at the scoring and impact damage on the bottom
Cheers JGV
Head are off now and the tops are intact and the heads look fine,I haven't got the correct size hex socket to remove the bolt that allows you to take out the piston but I can see from the bottom that the piston skirt has shattered on number 2.
So it's time to clean everything up and fit it to the donor block
Head bolts all came out ok apart from one which has stripped the block and left the bolt imbedded with metal,so will have to get another bolt if I can't clean this one up.
Not sure if it's possible to tell if the Pistons are forged from the pic below or would I need to get the piston fully out to see?
Def steel rods fitted to that Rich - pop a piston out and take a photo of it to see what it is.
Has it lost a Gudgeon pin circlip and allowed the pin to move forwards and catch on the Gudgeon pin access hole on the crankcases ?
Thanks Mick
I just remembered I'm sure I've got a 14mm allen key in my other toolbox,if I have then I should be able to remove the piston tomorrow,I will put some pics up when I've got it out.
Pistons out and can confirm now that it is a forged build.
GG Cosworth rods and Pistons.
Guess I will never know what caused the failure,C-clips and pins were all in and correct.
Bore looks ok apart from a small chunk missing at the bottom as you can see in the pic.
Does this damage make the block a right off and only fit for scrap?
Cheers
Rich
Looks like you were getting some Detonation going by the picture of that piston top.
When I picked the car up the first thing I did was plug it in and take some logs,it was detting it's **** off,poor mapping which was done IMO,I sorted it out but it might have been too late?
I thought there would have been some det damage to the top surface of the piston but that looks ok
Another one with cos worth pistons failed the same way that I know wasn't denting either
Was thinking of getting a matching piston and another block(maybe a CDB) then rebuilding a nice motor.
What are your thoughts,cosworth Pistons not good?
Originally Posted by bustaMOVEs
Ah what a bitch, onwards and upwards fella.
Good luck.
12 April 2016, 10:09 PM
