Full droop?

 

Yeah had both front wheels up so I could spin the shafts around when required.

 

Sorted the driveshaft earlier, span it 180 and the pin fitted correctly. The old pin I put in was still in there nice and solid so I doubt it would have gone anywhere but it's on right now. Also stuck a new set of rear brake pads on it.

 

What was wrong with your old shaft? Bit dubious of the cheap rubber that only lasts a year on the non genuine ones. The hard plastic on OE cv joints is far supirior.

 

The inner cv boot had split, cracked and perished and had flung all the grease out. The J&R shaft I've put in is very very good quality. The rubbers look better than OEM to be honest.

 

This is the old and new side by side:

 

Don't get me wrong I'm using JR audi inner joints and boots on front of my car because they were cheap. But there's no way the rubber will last 12 years! I've already had to replace one CV boot! (Just bought another JR one, in fact bought a complete spare joint as it was only £14 &#128514
I'd also paint that shaft and joint as it has no rust protection on it at all except oil.
Still, rediculously cheap aren't they?!

 

If you look at the old shaft it's covered in rust. I think it'll be fine. Got a 2 yr guarantee anyway. I might reboot the old shaft and keep it as a spare as the joint is fine.

 

that new shaft actually looks slimmer than the original oem one...

 

I'd say it looks slimmer because it is! don't go mad with the launches lol....

 

Don't think it will be a problem! Not much drive going tu the front wheels in a launch, 15-20% maybe

 

Plus you will probably did that the pattern shaft is no smaller than the smallest dia in the OE one, they thin down a lot at the ends. A long thin shaft all the same size is actually stronger than one that is thin-fat-thin

 

Been fine so far running 330+ lbs ft. It's no thinner than the OEM shaft at its thinnest points (at either end).

 

In other news, I was in talks with someone regarding an Andy Forrest 20G, I was waiting for it to be removed from a car and have pictures sent. But having seen the pics the exhaust side looks rather too oily too me and it looks like it needs a rebuild. I'll post the pics shortly.

 

The seller claims coolant got into the housing when it was removed, but its the oily sheen on the heatsheild behind the turbine wheel that concerns me most.

 

I also think its time for another set of plugs, the current iridium's have done about 10k now and I think they're getting a little tired (they don't seem to last all that well running more power and boost). I think they're over heating after driving the car hard for a while as the power delivery in boost starts to feel a little off. Drive off boost for a while and it resolves itself.

I think I'm going to start using some BCPR7ES plugs and just change them every other oil change as the iridium's don't last and the coppers are £7.20 for a set of 4.

 

That's exactly what the Cossy boys used to do. Nothing wrong with that.
How much is that turbo?
You can rebuild it your self for £20, I did my big 16g a couple months ago now. Unusual for it to need a rebuild TBH, quite hardy turbos the mitsubishi ones

 

PM'ed you.

 

I doubt it needs a rebuild, there's coolant on the floor in the first picture. If they seller was trying to hide something he would of cleaned it up with brake cleaner.
There is no damage to the compressor wheel or turbine wheel. I would buy with confidence.
Your cars going to fly with this on!
What manifold you running with it?

 

Not decided what else I would change yet. I think I'll need a new inlet pipe, it's on OEM headers with an STI decat up pipe at the moment.

I was thinking new inlet pipe, sell the prodrive sports cat and fit a full decat and bolt it on and see what it does?

 

Definatly need a full decat system, it get the best you will need a nice set of headers, should see close to 400bhp, but the power will be pushed up the rpm range. Think of it like this where your boost drops off from 1.5 bar now it will hold 1.5 bar all the way, so where you loose the power due to boost dropping you will gain with the 20g, but you will need headers for the flow I think

 

I'm not too fussed about maxing the absolute bollocks off of it, 380+ would be plenty because the torque that comes with it will be rather epic. Staying on the 565cc injectors as they should be good for 400 anyway. 380 Bhp and 370 lbs ft roughly would be more than enough.

 

Any gains will be higher up the RPM range, 4000 rpm onwards, real gains will be 5500-7000.
You will obviously loose torque below 3500.
I think a FPR and tubular manifold along with full decat has to be considered for the full benefit of this turbo.
It's exactly this reason I stuck with my big 16g, keep the power circa 350, the boost and torque high

 

Duncan thinks the difference in Spool won't be that noticeable. Headers etc can be done further down the line if required. It's going to make a big difference as it is. I'm thinking of fitting it in the 2nd half of October (After its MOT), then having it mapped to suit.

I think in the new year I might do some other upgrades like FMIC, headers etc and get it tweaked again as they should see a result and it'll keep me interested lol.

 

Turbo is paid for, should have it later this week.

 

Good shout Its always exciting waiting for new bits

 

Turbo has arrived..

I think it'll need a new compressor wheel as one of the inducer fins has a bit missing from the corner, looks like it's just chipped off. Play wise there is nothing front to back, just the normal TD05 rock side to side, not enough for the blades to touch the housing though and it spins smoothly. So bearing wise it seems fine. I'll get a pic up of the fin chip.

 

Get a Kinugawa rebuild kit for it? Billet upgrade wheel etc.... should be a nice turbo!

 

Only needs a wheel I think. Rest of it seems fine. So just comp housing off, wheel off, new wheel on and back together.

 

Happy days. Coming along nicely! Getting jealous of all these build threads now!