Bluestuff NDX Pads
11 January 2011, 09:46 PM
#1
Bluestuff NDX Pads
I've got a set of these to stick on with new discs (Cheers Ian) However I've hit a problem, actually two...... Firstly my old pads were totally gone and I ended up removing the caliper to get them out as they had broken up and caused all sorts of bother. As a result the anti-squeal plates came out on their own and I'm unsure what order to use them again, that is if they need to be used with the Bluestuff pads?
I have four plates in total, two full pad size ones and two half size ones. I'm assuming the larger of the two goes on first then the smaller one on top with the arrow showing the direction of the wheel travel?
The second problem is even stranger, it appears the pads are two long to fit in the caliper
I've looked inside it and there are two metal plates that the pad obviously sits against, trouble is no matter what I do the pad won't easily slide in. Looking at videos etc on the 'net it shows the pads sliding in and out very easily.
I've had such a rubbish day with this
I spent 10 years working on fast jets so I know how to hold a spanner, I swore I'd never work on a jet again, but after today I'd take one over this car any day 
I have four plates in total, two full pad size ones and two half size ones. I'm assuming the larger of the two goes on first then the smaller one on top with the arrow showing the direction of the wheel travel?
The second problem is even stranger, it appears the pads are two long to fit in the caliper
I've looked inside it and there are two metal plates that the pad obviously sits against, trouble is no matter what I do the pad won't easily slide in. Looking at videos etc on the 'net it shows the pads sliding in and out very easily. I've had such a rubbish day with this
I spent 10 years working on fast jets so I know how to hold a spanner, I swore I'd never work on a jet again, but after today I'd take one over this car any day
11 January 2011, 11:57 PM
#2
Hi
You can leave the standard plates out as the pads have plates stuck on the back of them.
The problem with the pads not fitting , is a corrosion build up between the caliper bodies and those metal plates where the pads slide in , the proper job is to remove them , they are held in place with a small bolt , but these are quite difficult to remove with the caliper in place , and without splitting the caliper in half , you might be able the clean the corrosion out by lifting the plate and scraping it out with a thin screw driver , it's a fiddly job to do , if all else fails , you could remove a small amount of metal from the end of the pad so they do slide in , just take a little off at a time until the pad slides in
Cheers Ian
You can leave the standard plates out as the pads have plates stuck on the back of them.
The problem with the pads not fitting , is a corrosion build up between the caliper bodies and those metal plates where the pads slide in , the proper job is to remove them , they are held in place with a small bolt , but these are quite difficult to remove with the caliper in place , and without splitting the caliper in half , you might be able the clean the corrosion out by lifting the plate and scraping it out with a thin screw driver , it's a fiddly job to do , if all else fails , you could remove a small amount of metal from the end of the pad so they do slide in , just take a little off at a time until the pad slides in
Cheers Ian
I've got a set of these to stick on with new discs (Cheers Ian) However I've hit a problem, actually two...... Firstly my old pads were totally gone and I ended up removing the caliper to get them out as they had broken up and caused all sorts of bother. As a result the anti-squeal plates came out on their own and I'm unsure what order to use them again, that is if they need to be used with the Bluestuff pads?
I have four plates in total, two full pad size ones and two half size ones. I'm assuming the larger of the two goes on first then the smaller one on top with the arrow showing the direction of the wheel travel?
The second problem is even stranger, it appears the pads are two long to fit in the caliper I've looked inside it and there are two metal plates that the pad obviously sits against, trouble is no matter what I do the pad won't easily slide in. Looking at videos etc on the 'net it shows the pads sliding in and out very easily.
I've had such a rubbish day with this I spent 10 years working on fast jets so I know how to hold a spanner, I swore I'd never work on a jet again, but after today I'd take one over this car any day
I have four plates in total, two full pad size ones and two half size ones. I'm assuming the larger of the two goes on first then the smaller one on top with the arrow showing the direction of the wheel travel?
The second problem is even stranger, it appears the pads are two long to fit in the caliper
I've looked inside it and there are two metal plates that the pad obviously sits against, trouble is no matter what I do the pad won't easily slide in. Looking at videos etc on the 'net it shows the pads sliding in and out very easily. I've had such a rubbish day with this
I spent 10 years working on fast jets so I know how to hold a spanner, I swore I'd never work on a jet again, but after today I'd take one over this car any day Last edited by Godspeed Brakes; 11 January 2011 at 11:59 PM.
12 January 2011, 12:02 AM
#3
Hi
You can leave the standard plates out as the pads have plates stuck on the back of them.
The problem with the pads not fitting , is a corrosion build up between the caliper bodies and those metal plates where the pads slide in , the proper job is to remove them , they are held in place with a small bolt , but these are quite difficult to remove with the caliper in place , and without splitting the caliper in half , you might be able the clean the corrosion out by lifting the plate and scraping it out with a thin screw driver , it's a fiddly job to do , if all else fails , you could remove a small amount of metal from the end of the pad so they do slide in , just take a little off at a time until the pad slides in
Cheers Ian
You can leave the standard plates out as the pads have plates stuck on the back of them.
The problem with the pads not fitting , is a corrosion build up between the caliper bodies and those metal plates where the pads slide in , the proper job is to remove them , they are held in place with a small bolt , but these are quite difficult to remove with the caliper in place , and without splitting the caliper in half , you might be able the clean the corrosion out by lifting the plate and scraping it out with a thin screw driver , it's a fiddly job to do , if all else fails , you could remove a small amount of metal from the end of the pad so they do slide in , just take a little off at a time until the pad slides in
Cheers Ian
13 January 2011, 10:30 PM
#6
14 January 2011, 05:58 AM
#8
Hi Ian,
I had the calliper off but the little bolts holding them in didn't want to budge. The size of allen or torx bit to remove wasn't clear either. In the end I moved them out and cleaned behind them. It made little difference to be honest, plus they are now not sitting flush after being pryed out, although they are malleable enough for the pad to re-seat them I guess
I think the only solution is to remove more material from the pad edges. I genuinely believe they have been made a little too big as even when holding them in the calliper against the metal shoulders there is a vast difference in clearance and pad size, even allowing for corrosion. That said I'm definitely no expert
I had the calliper off but the little bolts holding them in didn't want to budge. The size of allen or torx bit to remove wasn't clear either. In the end I moved them out and cleaned behind them. It made little difference to be honest, plus they are now not sitting flush after being pryed out, although they are malleable enough for the pad to re-seat them I guess
I think the only solution is to remove more material from the pad edges. I genuinely believe they have been made a little too big as even when holding them in the calliper against the metal shoulders there is a vast difference in clearance and pad size, even allowing for corrosion. That said I'm definitely no expert
14 January 2011, 08:33 AM
#9
Hi
I just checked all the pads we have on the shelf , 10 sets ! lol and they are all identical and fit into the Gold brembo's we have here.
If you want to send your calipers to me , i'll remove the plates , clean behind them , put some paint on them and refit the plates with new bolts if you want , at least you know they will be right then.
But the pads must not be tight in the calipers , as the pads will be held too tight and not release off the discs and could overheat and warp them
Cheers Ian
I just checked all the pads we have on the shelf , 10 sets ! lol and they are all identical and fit into the Gold brembo's we have here.
If you want to send your calipers to me , i'll remove the plates , clean behind them , put some paint on them and refit the plates with new bolts if you want , at least you know they will be right then.
But the pads must not be tight in the calipers , as the pads will be held too tight and not release off the discs and could overheat and warp them
Cheers Ian
14 January 2011, 04:47 PM
#10
Hi Ian,
This job has been doomed from the start as today after getting everything done on the drivers side I went to bleed only to find the inner nipple is corroded to the point it is now, well, just a point
The other side is the same with the inner crumbling away when the dust cap was removed, oh and to top it off the bottom bolt has sheared in half. I think the only saving grace is that there should be enough material left in the caliper to clamp it in a vice and remove, worse case drill and tap as it's not yet stripped.
It's booked in on Monday anyway for a gearbox fault and a new clutch so the guys at my local specialist are going to address it as if they can't fix it they have a machine shop they use, who should be able to.
No doubt I'll find out that Brembo don't sell the bleed nipples, or if they do they're £25.00 each plus vat
This job has been doomed from the start as today after getting everything done on the drivers side I went to bleed only to find the inner nipple is corroded to the point it is now, well, just a point
The other side is the same with the inner crumbling away when the dust cap was removed, oh and to top it off the bottom bolt has sheared in half. I think the only saving grace is that there should be enough material left in the caliper to clamp it in a vice and remove, worse case drill and tap as it's not yet stripped.
It's booked in on Monday anyway for a gearbox fault and a new clutch so the guys at my local specialist are going to address it as if they can't fix it they have a machine shop they use, who should be able to.
No doubt I'll find out that Brembo don't sell the bleed nipples, or if they do they're £25.00 each plus vat
14 January 2011, 06:25 PM
#12
I'm curious to know how the Subaru dealer who serviced it before I purchased it managed to 'strip and clean' the brakes without bleeding? Or the fact the pad surface was in bits........
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