Fitted the Godspeed 335Kit this weekend
26 August 2008, 12:10 AM
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Fitted the Godspeed 335Kit this weekend
So this weekend i decided to have a go at fitting the Godspeed 335 kit, i also opted to get my calipers re-conditioned at the same time due to some sticky pistons. In the process i got braided hoses all round as well, Ian got the stuff out within a week and all looked good.
I had to paint the writing onto the calipers myself and this was cool because it was a challenge, not one i would do in the same fashion again, but never mind.
I thought hard about what colour to use and in the end decided on garish yellow
much like the AP clolour, only more so. First off i taped the hole face of the caliper with decorators tape. I put the tape on multiple times and used some pressure to bring the writing to the font.
Next i used a fresh stanley blade to cut out the outline of the writing, this took time but enabled me to peel back the tape that was covering it. I had to be careful not to cut off the black paint, but inevitably it was unavoidable.
I thought creating a key on the paint surface was not a bad idea but only had mild sand paper..... anyway i used a light technique to give the surface some purchase. Unfortunately for me, the paint i chose was complete crap and was NOT as thick as i had hoped. Consequently i had to apply nearly 4 coats of paint to the surface before it even started to look yellow, and in the back of my mind was the voice that nearly bought silver from Model Zone
Anyhow i eventually got a reasonable finish and decided to peel back the tape.
To be fair these didn't come out too bad, but i did have to edge the writing with some household black gloss.
Next was the fitting, and this weekend was perfect, or so i thought. The whole process took me the best part of 10 hours........ started at 8.30 am and finished up about 6. Suffice to say i shan't be doing this again (at least not for a while anyway
)
First off i jacked the car up and got it onto axel stands at the front, i only have 2 so the trolley jack under the diff at the back did the work for me there.. i know its not ideal but bollox..haha
Next i had to get the old calipers off and this wasn't too bad, behind the calipers there are two large nuts that will take a socket but i used a spanner, i think they were 14mm but not sure on that one.. Could have been 16's any how these came off without too much bother. Then i lifted the caliper off of the disk and rested it on a box with brake line still attached under the wheel arch.
This allowed me to remove the brake disc which came off easily once the caliper had been lifted out. Ian kindly built my calipers up for me before sending them through so i didn't have to split them up and fit the spacers. The instructions were in the box nonetheless. After this it was time to run a tap through the hub upright to enlarge the thread to house the larger bolts, the stock bolts have a 12mm thread but they need to be 14mm to accept the larger bolts for the big brake kit.
Once both were done i ran the screw through from behind to make sure the thread was true and it was so game on. It was quite daunting as had i bolloxed this i would have been without a car until i had some new hubs. However once the tap was in it almost found its own way through to the otherside (with a little help from a ratchet of course) After this i decided to fit the brackets on. They are made up of four parts, the bracket itself, the 14mm bolts, the 12mm bolts and spacers, as there were no pictures with the kit i had to try various postions until it was obvious which way around they went.
The bracket mounts at the back of the upright, the two 14mm bolts screw in from behind, screwing away from the car. The spacers sit on the side nearest to the brake disc and are a strange eliptic shape, like a circle with one flat edge. The flat edge i found had to go against the edge of the upright otherwise it wouldn't fit. The 12mm caliper screws screw through the back, through the bracket (screwing away from the car), throught the spacer and into the 12mm holes of the caliper. I use some castrol grease on the threads to help with removal at a later date.
Next i chose to remove the brake lines which were covered in crap and fit the new Goodrich lines. THE LARGER CABLES WITH THE ANGLED BANJO GO AT THE FRONT First i took off the cable clamps that hold the cables in place as they pass through the tidies, then i scraped most of the crud off with a screw driver, but the solid copper lines that have the screw thread on were almost all sealed to the rubber brake lines with rust.... So it was out with the blow torch and wd40
The back off-side wheel was the hardest and right next to the petrol tank
I nearly though the towel in here but couldn't because i had no sodding brakes.. When mounting the new goodrich lines onto the new calipers, make sure to use new crush washers, especially on the end with the banjo connection.
This process obviously caused some amount of fluid leakage onto the floor but this was unavoidable, i had no clamps to use and even these would have not been able to stop the leakage when i had to fit the new line to the new caliper. I made sure that the reservoir was well topped up for this bit. Once the line was secure at the pipe end i threaded it through the cable runs and then refitted the clamps that hold the lines in place.
Next i popped the pads into the calipers and used the retention pins provided to hold the pads in place. The old shims didn't seem to fit so guess that they were not needed...... The split pins simply bend out at one end to hold them in place.
Last of all i had to fit the new disc on and then attach the caliper over the top with new pads inside. This was very straight forward and took a couple of minutes. Once in place and the other three wheels had been done i bled the system with some dot 5.1 fluid and flushed the not so old dot 4 out.
These were the end results
Im very happy with the kit and i think that it bridges the gap nicely between fast road and track day setup to a full blown race spec kit like AP for which you pay your money. The stopping is fantastic and i already had the 4 pots before...
Thanks to Ian for lending me his tap as well, its in the post mate..
I hope this thread helps someone else intent on either buying or fitting this kit.
@d
I had to paint the writing onto the calipers myself and this was cool because it was a challenge, not one i would do in the same fashion again, but never mind.
I thought hard about what colour to use and in the end decided on garish yellow
much like the AP clolour, only more so. First off i taped the hole face of the caliper with decorators tape. I put the tape on multiple times and used some pressure to bring the writing to the font.Next i used a fresh stanley blade to cut out the outline of the writing, this took time but enabled me to peel back the tape that was covering it. I had to be careful not to cut off the black paint, but inevitably it was unavoidable.
I thought creating a key on the paint surface was not a bad idea but only had mild sand paper..... anyway i used a light technique to give the surface some purchase. Unfortunately for me, the paint i chose was complete crap and was NOT as thick as i had hoped. Consequently i had to apply nearly 4 coats of paint to the surface before it even started to look yellow, and in the back of my mind was the voice that nearly bought silver from Model Zone
Anyhow i eventually got a reasonable finish and decided to peel back the tape.
To be fair these didn't come out too bad, but i did have to edge the writing with some household black gloss.
Next was the fitting, and this weekend was perfect, or so i thought. The whole process took me the best part of 10 hours........ started at 8.30 am and finished up about 6. Suffice to say i shan't be doing this again (at least not for a while anyway
)First off i jacked the car up and got it onto axel stands at the front, i only have 2 so the trolley jack under the diff at the back did the work for me there.. i know its not ideal but bollox..haha
Next i had to get the old calipers off and this wasn't too bad, behind the calipers there are two large nuts that will take a socket but i used a spanner, i think they were 14mm but not sure on that one.. Could have been 16's any how these came off without too much bother. Then i lifted the caliper off of the disk and rested it on a box with brake line still attached under the wheel arch.
This allowed me to remove the brake disc which came off easily once the caliper had been lifted out. Ian kindly built my calipers up for me before sending them through so i didn't have to split them up and fit the spacers. The instructions were in the box nonetheless. After this it was time to run a tap through the hub upright to enlarge the thread to house the larger bolts, the stock bolts have a 12mm thread but they need to be 14mm to accept the larger bolts for the big brake kit.
Once both were done i ran the screw through from behind to make sure the thread was true and it was so game on. It was quite daunting as had i bolloxed this i would have been without a car until i had some new hubs. However once the tap was in it almost found its own way through to the otherside (with a little help from a ratchet of course) After this i decided to fit the brackets on. They are made up of four parts, the bracket itself, the 14mm bolts, the 12mm bolts and spacers, as there were no pictures with the kit i had to try various postions until it was obvious which way around they went.
The bracket mounts at the back of the upright, the two 14mm bolts screw in from behind, screwing away from the car. The spacers sit on the side nearest to the brake disc and are a strange eliptic shape, like a circle with one flat edge. The flat edge i found had to go against the edge of the upright otherwise it wouldn't fit. The 12mm caliper screws screw through the back, through the bracket (screwing away from the car), throught the spacer and into the 12mm holes of the caliper. I use some castrol grease on the threads to help with removal at a later date.
Next i chose to remove the brake lines which were covered in crap and fit the new Goodrich lines. THE LARGER CABLES WITH THE ANGLED BANJO GO AT THE FRONT First i took off the cable clamps that hold the cables in place as they pass through the tidies, then i scraped most of the crud off with a screw driver, but the solid copper lines that have the screw thread on were almost all sealed to the rubber brake lines with rust.... So it was out with the blow torch and wd40
The back off-side wheel was the hardest and right next to the petrol tank
I nearly though the towel in here but couldn't because i had no sodding brakes.. When mounting the new goodrich lines onto the new calipers, make sure to use new crush washers, especially on the end with the banjo connection. This process obviously caused some amount of fluid leakage onto the floor but this was unavoidable, i had no clamps to use and even these would have not been able to stop the leakage when i had to fit the new line to the new caliper. I made sure that the reservoir was well topped up for this bit. Once the line was secure at the pipe end i threaded it through the cable runs and then refitted the clamps that hold the lines in place.
Next i popped the pads into the calipers and used the retention pins provided to hold the pads in place. The old shims didn't seem to fit so guess that they were not needed...... The split pins simply bend out at one end to hold them in place.
Last of all i had to fit the new disc on and then attach the caliper over the top with new pads inside. This was very straight forward and took a couple of minutes. Once in place and the other three wheels had been done i bled the system with some dot 5.1 fluid and flushed the not so old dot 4 out.
These were the end results
Im very happy with the kit and i think that it bridges the gap nicely between fast road and track day setup to a full blown race spec kit like AP for which you pay your money. The stopping is fantastic and i already had the 4 pots before...
Thanks to Ian for lending me his tap as well, its in the post mate..
I hope this thread helps someone else intent on either buying or fitting this kit.
@d
26 August 2008, 06:26 PM
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Looking good there
I'm a little suprised that you had to re tap the hub threads to fit new bolts though! I would have thought it's a lot easier to simply use the standard bolts or at the very least, different bolts with the same thread pitch??
Do like those two piece discs though
I'm a little suprised that you had to re tap the hub threads to fit new bolts though! I would have thought it's a lot easier to simply use the standard bolts or at the very least, different bolts with the same thread pitch??
Do like those two piece discs though
27 August 2008, 12:43 AM
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yeah must admit that one puzzled me as well, perhaps it was done to create less confusion when the kit is mounted or better yet a bigger bolt to take bigger stresses?? I'm sure Mr Godney has his reasons
The two pieces do look good
The two pieces do look good
27 August 2008, 08:16 AM
#4
The holes in the hubs are plain holes with no threads in them , the calipers are threaded , so when you fit the caliper into there original position , the bolts go through the hub and screw into the caliper.
When you fit the bracket to bring the caliper out to fit the larger disc , the hub has no threaded hole to fit it in place , there in no room to fit a nut and bolt to hold it on , and there is not enough room to fit a bolt in from the other side and screw it into the bracket as the disc is in the way and would hit.
So the only way to fit the bracket , is to run an M14mm tap through the 12mm hole that is in the hub , you cannot leave it the same size as the standard bolt that holds the caliper on as standard as the hole is too big to put a 12mm tap through it as its already 12mm.
The only way to fit them , is to thread a 14mm tap though the holes , then use the 14mm bolts supplied with the kit , it all works perfectly.
And as the hole is still 12mm , albeit with a 14mm thread going through it , it can still be put back to standard at a later date with no problems.
I hope this clears it up for you
Cheers Ian
When you fit the bracket to bring the caliper out to fit the larger disc , the hub has no threaded hole to fit it in place , there in no room to fit a nut and bolt to hold it on , and there is not enough room to fit a bolt in from the other side and screw it into the bracket as the disc is in the way and would hit.
So the only way to fit the bracket , is to run an M14mm tap through the 12mm hole that is in the hub , you cannot leave it the same size as the standard bolt that holds the caliper on as standard as the hole is too big to put a 12mm tap through it as its already 12mm.
The only way to fit them , is to thread a 14mm tap though the holes , then use the 14mm bolts supplied with the kit , it all works perfectly.
And as the hole is still 12mm , albeit with a 14mm thread going through it , it can still be put back to standard at a later date with no problems.
I hope this clears it up for you
Cheers Ian
Last edited by Godspeed Brakes; 27 August 2008 at 08:19 AM.
05 September 2008, 09:36 PM
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The holes in the hubs are plain holes with no threads in them , the calipers are threaded , so when you fit the caliper into there original position , the bolts go through the hub and screw into the caliper.
When you fit the bracket to bring the caliper out to fit the larger disc , the hub has no threaded hole to fit it in place , there in no room to fit a nut and bolt to hold it on , and there is not enough room to fit a bolt in from the other side and screw it into the bracket as the disc is in the way and would hit.
So the only way to fit the bracket , is to run an M14mm tap through the 12mm hole that is in the hub , you cannot leave it the same size as the standard bolt that holds the caliper on as standard as the hole is too big to put a 12mm tap through it as its already 12mm.
The only way to fit them , is to thread a 14mm tap though the holes , then use the 14mm bolts supplied with the kit , it all works perfectly.
And as the hole is still 12mm , albeit with a 14mm thread going through it , it can still be put back to standard at a later date with no problems.
I hope this clears it up for you
Cheers Ian
When you fit the bracket to bring the caliper out to fit the larger disc , the hub has no threaded hole to fit it in place , there in no room to fit a nut and bolt to hold it on , and there is not enough room to fit a bolt in from the other side and screw it into the bracket as the disc is in the way and would hit.
So the only way to fit the bracket , is to run an M14mm tap through the 12mm hole that is in the hub , you cannot leave it the same size as the standard bolt that holds the caliper on as standard as the hole is too big to put a 12mm tap through it as its already 12mm.
The only way to fit them , is to thread a 14mm tap though the holes , then use the 14mm bolts supplied with the kit , it all works perfectly.
And as the hole is still 12mm , albeit with a 14mm thread going through it , it can still be put back to standard at a later date with no problems.
I hope this clears it up for you
Cheers Ian
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09 September 2008, 09:18 AM
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Hi - as actually now you have bigger discs I see you have also bigger than standard brake pads.
Could you tell me what type of pads do you use now to fit those Subaru calipers,please?
Cheers
Could you tell me what type of pads do you use now to fit those Subaru calipers,please?
Cheers
23 September 2008, 02:38 PM
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Hi mate
They're ferodo ds2500 pads but modified slightly to fit the expanded calipers. Ian does all this when sending them out. Actually i'f you have a drill and some spare time you could buy them off the shelf and modify yourself. Also the split pins that come with the kit are custom and designed to hold the pads in place after the upgrade. A very well thought out kit.
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They're ferodo ds2500 pads but modified slightly to fit the expanded calipers. Ian does all this when sending them out. Actually i'f you have a drill and some spare time you could buy them off the shelf and modify yourself. Also the split pins that come with the kit are custom and designed to hold the pads in place after the upgrade. A very well thought out kit.
Ad
29 August 2009, 12:19 PM
#10
Hi time to breathe life into an old thread, just done the same upgrade myself and all is good so far, only issue now is tghe front right pad has some play which causes an annoying 'knocking' type noise, is this due to the split pins or is there another cause, has anyone else experienced this and what can I do to sort the problem?
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