A helpful tyre change garage has stripped the threads on my studs that holds the wheels on

The replacements push through from the back so Subaru have told me I need to take off the break discs to change them.

Anyone got a quick how to guide to remove a break disc, still can't believe their is no Haynes manuals for the impreza!

I assume you have to remove the big central nut, anyone know which size socket I'll need?

Cheers

 

on my MY2000 classic the brake discs (front) are just held on by the wheel. They'll appear to be fixed, but this is the pads holding them in place. Take the pads out of the caliper, and the disc will move. You might need to undo the caliper to get enough wiggle-room to get the disc off.

While you're in there, it's worth winding the pads back in, check they're running freely, and slap some oil on the bleed nipple (don't get it on the disc/ pads!). You'll be glad you did when you come to bleed them next time. I've just had a bleed nipple shear off and it's a PITA....(hey ho, brake upgrade coming on...)

have fun..
Martin

 

Nope.. as said above, whip off the calipers first.. If there is a screw holding the disc onto the hub, you may need an impact driver to undo it as they can be really tight !

Then the disc will just just drop off.. (may need a wack with a mallet if it has rusted on)..

Make sure you clean the mating surfaces of the disc and hub when re-assembling them, and a smear of copper slip or cera-tec would be a good idea too.. this will stop brake judder, and prevent them getting rusted on in the future..

Simple job..

 

IMHO if you need to ask (big nut is the hub nut BTW.. ) you shouldn't be messing, especially with something as critical as brakes..!

Take it to somewhere that knows what they're doing and if the tyre fitter broke it get them to pay for it..!

 

arent the studs connected to the hub?

 

I thought they were reversed threaded into hub TBH..!

 

No the studs are splined and are a press fit into the drive flange , to get them out you give em a whack with a mallet.
They are easy enough to change

 

Something learned every day, cheers Ian..

 

Appreciate what you saying but despite my lack of all terms and experience specifically with the scooby I have worked on all of the previous cars and bikes I have owned without issue. I can't do the work in my sleep nor am I a mechanic which is why I ask before tearing in and finding I am way out of my depth with a car in pieces, but thanks for the concern/cynicism.

The problem I have with the impreza is no Haynes or how to which tells me the difficulty levels before I start. So many jobs on cars are: unscrew parts, replace broken ones and refit them in reverse order, which I can't stomach paying a garage who give the job to a £6 an hour Saturday trainee to do and they charge you £40 per hour. I draw the line with jobs that are over complex or require specific settings and happily pay an expert. If this job came back as something more complex than remove pads, maybe the calliper then the disk is free, remove it, fit the studs then reverse I would have taken them to a garage.

I'm not even bothering trying to prove a tyre fitter cross threaded a nut. When I collected the car they were on. I had to remove the wheels to refit the central cover over the hub nut (thanks for the term ), I have prodrive alloys and the fit isn't great so I fix them in to make sure I don't lose them. The nuts came off feeling like they were cross threaded, once off they visibly were and now won't go back on. To know they cross threaded the nut I have had to remove the wheel which will just end up as "you did it". For a £3 stud, £2 new wheel nut and an hours work its not worth the grief.

2000 sport and MartinW, thanks for all the help and the extra tips for doing the job well

 

Hello, I think Haynes are looking at doing one for the Impreza. There are loads of Subaru work shop manuals that seem to have found their way onto websites (disgruntled Subaru employees?!!). I got one off ebay in PDF format, its been scanned but I use it regulalry.

Its maybe not as details, in terms of photos, but they have all the exploded pics and more crucially torque settings. Its a very good purchase. Let me know if you want a copy and I'll cut one onto CD for you (too big to email).

Re the studs, I changed mine on the front as I added a 5MM spacer. I used a blow torch VERY CAREFULLY to heat the area around the stud on the hub, then tapped it out with a mallet.

The new one will have splines that you will see line up with hub. Get it in far enough and use one of the wheel studs to wind it in as you tighten it and some washers (i got a machine shop to give me a bolt of the correct thread to use that had a huge face on it).

Lastly, you'd be better to take the caliper off and hang it up, then the disc will fall off, then you have loads of room for the job.