Brake pad installation guide
13 January 2005, 11:06 AM
#1
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Brake pad installation guide
Done a search and can't find anything.
I want to install some front pads on MY00. Never put pads in before on any car, although done just about everything else on this car!
Have just bought full set of front Mintex pads (£25, they seem too cheap although aparently direct oem replacements) and copper slip.
Can anyone give me a basic procedure list so I don't end up with no brakes
Cheers
I want to install some front pads on MY00. Never put pads in before on any car, although done just about everything else on this car!
Have just bought full set of front Mintex pads (£25, they seem too cheap although aparently direct oem replacements) and copper slip.
Can anyone give me a basic procedure list so I don't end up with no brakes
Cheers
13 January 2005, 11:55 AM
#2
dead easy.
knock the pins out that retain the pads. knock (tap) the pads out. slide new ones in - you may need to lever the pistons out the way with a screwdriver or similar. tap the pins back in. the pins can be a little stiff but can be easily persuaded
. there is a squeal shim - not which way up it goes before removal.
before testdrive press the brake peddle a few times.
easiest pad change on any car i have done.
knock the pins out that retain the pads. knock (tap) the pads out. slide new ones in - you may need to lever the pistons out the way with a screwdriver or similar. tap the pins back in. the pins can be a little stiff but can be easily persuaded
. there is a squeal shim - not which way up it goes before removal.before testdrive press the brake peddle a few times.
easiest pad change on any car i have done.
13 January 2005, 09:20 PM
#4
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Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership)
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more).
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership)
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more).
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
14 January 2005, 06:15 PM
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you might find its a good idea to remove the brake fluid top as when you press the caliper pistons back in the returning fluid could squirt out of the breather hole in the cap especially if someone has topped the fluid up at some time it makes an excelent paint stripper dont forget to replace cap
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17 January 2005, 03:32 PM
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I've been recommended NOT to use copper slip with 'modern' compounds such as DS2500. I've tried it with my DS2500 rears and no squeaks yet!
What's the community think about that! I've been copperslipping pads for years!
It should keep things cleaner!
Regards,
Ian
What's the community think about that! I've been copperslipping pads for years!
It should keep things cleaner!
Regards,
Ian
17 January 2005, 03:36 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by Pete_UK99
Just what I needed. I've got an 01 though so is it the same procedure?
Took me an hour to do the whole job with Dyneys instructions and was very straight forward. Trickiest bit was putting pads back in without damaging the pad edge on edge of disk as its quite tight.
19 January 2005, 05:28 AM
#12
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The same 4 pots have been used since the later Classic STI and UK cars.
Copperslip isn't essential, but I have used it for years (as you said). Never had a problem with it Not sure why you might be recommended NOT to use i. With modern compounds it may not be nessesary I suppose, but if in doubt........
Flat Faw,
This question comes up quite regularly. So I decided some time ago to write out the whole procedure and save it
If I spot a question like yours I post it.
Loads of peolpe have used it and been very thank full that they saved the dealers charges and will do again now they know how simple it is.
Not seen a penny though
Glad it helped. An hours not bad going
I think I've got it down to 20mins
.
.
.
.
.
.
In the dark
Copperslip isn't essential, but I have used it for years (as you said). Never had a problem with it
Not sure why you might be recommended NOT to use i. With modern compounds it may not be nessesary I suppose, but if in doubt........ Flat Faw,
This question comes up quite regularly. So I decided some time ago to write out the whole procedure and save it
If I spot a question like yours I post it.
Loads of peolpe have used it and been very thank full that they saved the dealers charges and will do again now they know how simple it is.
Not seen a penny though
Glad it helped. An hours not bad going
I think I've got it down to 20mins
.
.
.
.
.
.
In the dark
19 January 2005, 01:51 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by Flat Faw
Have just bought full set of front Mintex pads (£25, they seem too cheap although aparently direct oem replacements) and copper slip.
where from? I need some discs and pads in the immediate future. Feel free to PM just in case naming a supplier falls fouls of scoobynet rules.
19 January 2005, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave_A
If you need to change disks at the same time, do they come off quite easily during the above procedure or is there anything else to look out for?
Dave
Dave
Stu
19 January 2005, 03:48 PM
#16
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Copper slip the caliper bolts when you put 'em back on and torque them up to 59ft-lbs IIRC.
The disc may have bound to the wheel hub, but there should be some holes in the hub to help prise them off. I think I used two M8x50mm bolts to help them off. A rubber mallet should do the trick too.
If you do need to use bolts, make sure they are strong enough not to snap off.
The disc may have bound to the wheel hub, but there should be some holes in the hub to help prise them off. I think I used two M8x50mm bolts to help them off. A rubber mallet should do the trick too.
If you do need to use bolts, make sure they are strong enough not to snap off.
19 January 2005, 07:27 PM
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Cheers Stu 'n' Ozzy, looks like I've managed to warp the discs I've got on at the moment judging by the amount of pulsing judder I'm getting through the brake pedal. Will get some new discs and pads and sort it out this weekend.
Dave
Dave
19 January 2005, 07:52 PM
#18
Scooby Regular
Might be worth rubbing the disks over with some sand paper first
Some pads can leave deposits of pad material on the disk surface.
Disk replacement instructions
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Now unbolt the calliper from the hub (these bolts will be very tight!! Make sure you use the correct size socket (you do not want to round these buggers off!!))
With the calliper removed the disk should come off if it doesn't give it a tap from behind with a mallet
Clean up the mounting surface of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to the surface of the hub (should stop it seizing on again)
Put new disk in place and bolt the calliper back on.
Clean both sides of the disk with brake cleaner.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more) Do not damage the new disk!!!!!!
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!!
Some pads can leave deposits of pad material on the disk surface.
Disk replacement instructions
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Now unbolt the calliper from the hub (these bolts will be very tight!! Make sure you use the correct size socket (you do not want to round these buggers off!!))
With the calliper removed the disk should come off if it doesn't give it a tap from behind with a mallet
Clean up the mounting surface of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to the surface of the hub (should stop it seizing on again)
Put new disk in place and bolt the calliper back on.
Clean both sides of the disk with brake cleaner.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more) Do not damage the new disk!!!!!!
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!!
31 January 2005, 07:06 PM
#19
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Dyney
That is a really good instruction (disks)
Iv done pads b4 and I just wanted to check with you on removing the calliper for changing the disks.
when unbolting the calliper from the hub are these the 2 bolts round the back/behind the calliper?
That is a really good instruction (disks)
Iv done pads b4 and I just wanted to check with you on removing the calliper for changing the disks.
when unbolting the calliper from the hub are these the 2 bolts round the back/behind the calliper?
01 February 2005, 08:11 PM
#20
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Ray,
For changing the disk yes (same for 2 and 4 pots)
For info:
If you were just changing the pads (2 pots) then it would be the bolt just out of shot at the top (in the first pic) and the same one at the bottom
For changing the disk yes
(same for 2 and 4 pots)For info:
If you were just changing the pads (2 pots) then it would be the bolt just out of shot at the top (in the first pic) and the same one at the bottom
24 January 2008, 01:52 AM
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Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership)
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more).
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership)
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the calliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the calliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the calliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) be careful of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Don’t worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the calliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a piece of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error until they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck on the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the calliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more).
Now put the curly clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek professional help
its my first time, changing brake pads...
and believe me.......it is so simple and straight forward...
thanx 4 the post
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