Bedding in procedure for EBC Ceramic Red pads?
19 July 2004, 02:05 AM
#1
Bedding in procedure for EBC Ceramic Red pads?
have done the search but with no luck. I know the different pad manufacturers have their own bedding-in procedure but none came in the box.
Anybody know the correct procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
Anybody know the correct procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
20 July 2004, 03:09 PM
#2
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Iv gone for these to.
Lets hope we will get some info soon.
I also hope they dont squeal like a pig.
Do you know how to fit these? Iv done pads b4 but not 4pot and a bit worried cuz my my car.
Ray
Lets hope we will get some info soon.
I also hope they dont squeal like a pig.
Do you know how to fit these? Iv done pads b4 but not 4pot and a bit worried cuz my my car.
Ray
21 July 2004, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Creepy
Duncan, I mailed you
Creepy
Creepy
then build up the brake use gradually over the next 500 miles
may take upto 1000 miles to get the bedding over and the brakes upto top performance
best to use redstuff ceramic on the rear also
21 July 2004, 02:35 PM
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I also expierienced that EBC ceramics are sensitive on disc type.
You really should clean (that mean sanding down or grinding off) the old pad residu.
The ceramic pads that I used were put on the car after DS2500 and in the beginning, the discs looked like they were "smeared" with brake pad residu.
There was absolutely no pad-transfer into the disc because I didn't sand them down. Brake performance was also very poor, with slight vibrations and very poor power (they didn't lock up or triggered the ABS, even in the wet !!!!!)
After sanding the discs (with wet paper) the transfer was much better and brake performance was ok, except that I personally find DS2500 better for cold performance, the EBC's feel a litlle "wooden" on the first applications.
Creepy
You really should clean (that mean sanding down or grinding off) the old pad residu.
The ceramic pads that I used were put on the car after DS2500 and in the beginning, the discs looked like they were "smeared" with brake pad residu.
There was absolutely no pad-transfer into the disc because I didn't sand them down. Brake performance was also very poor, with slight vibrations and very poor power (they didn't lock up or triggered the ABS, even in the wet !!!!!)
After sanding the discs (with wet paper) the transfer was much better and brake performance was ok, except that I personally find DS2500 better for cold performance, the EBC's feel a litlle "wooden" on the first applications.
Creepy
21 July 2004, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Creepy
I also expierienced that EBC ceramics are sensitive on disc type.
You really should clean (that mean sanding down or grinding off) the old pad residu.
The ceramic pads that I used were put on the car after DS2500 and in the beginning, the discs looked like they were "smeared" with brake pad residu.
There was absolutely no pad-transfer into the disc because I didn't sand them down. Brake performance was also very poor, with slight vibrations and very poor power (they didn't lock up or triggered the ABS, even in the wet !!!!!)
After sanding the discs (with wet paper) the transfer was much better and brake performance was ok, except that I personally find DS2500 better for cold performance, the EBC's feel a litlle "wooden" on the first applications.
Creepy
You really should clean (that mean sanding down or grinding off) the old pad residu.
The ceramic pads that I used were put on the car after DS2500 and in the beginning, the discs looked like they were "smeared" with brake pad residu.
There was absolutely no pad-transfer into the disc because I didn't sand them down. Brake performance was also very poor, with slight vibrations and very poor power (they didn't lock up or triggered the ABS, even in the wet !!!!!)
After sanding the discs (with wet paper) the transfer was much better and brake performance was ok, except that I personally find DS2500 better for cold performance, the EBC's feel a litlle "wooden" on the first applications.
Creepy
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21 July 2004, 06:08 PM
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bedding in
ebc includes their procedure with brake pad purchase you should follow their instructions for optimum results...
but,
basically... up to 40mph... come to near stop repeat 3-4 times then 60mph stop hard to 20-30mph repeat 3-4 times this should do it.
dont drag the brake/left foot brake
this is improper break in!!!
hope this helps!
Do you agree with this Bart this is the feed back i am getting!!!!!!
but,
basically... up to 40mph... come to near stop repeat 3-4 times then 60mph stop hard to 20-30mph repeat 3-4 times this should do it.
dont drag the brake/left foot brake
this is improper break in!!!
hope this helps!
Do you agree with this Bart this is the feed back i am getting!!!!!!
21 July 2004, 06:43 PM
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Bart, speak of the devil..
How thick can the pad deposits be on a disc? Im measuring 8-10 thou runout and find it hard to believe thats down to deposits and not actually warped discs.
How thick can the pad deposits be on a disc? Im measuring 8-10 thou runout and find it hard to believe thats down to deposits and not actually warped discs.
21 July 2004, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by spikus1969
but,
basically... up to 40mph... come to near stop repeat 3-4 times then 60mph stop hard to 20-30mph repeat 3-4 times this should do it.
basically... up to 40mph... come to near stop repeat 3-4 times then 60mph stop hard to 20-30mph repeat 3-4 times this should do it.
Hows it going mate?
Buck
27 July 2004, 02:55 AM
#15
Ray li: you'll be fine mate. I didn't know where to jack the car up and I managed! I even removed the calipers to paint them and fitted braided brake lines and 5.1 fluid.
If your just changing the pads it goes something like this.
1. Loosen wheel nuts
2. Jack car up (at correct point)
3. remove wheel
4. undo 2 caliper nuts on the strut (can be very tight...lube helps along with alot of leverage)
5. slide caliper away from disc
6. remove retaining wire from bck of caliper
7. remove pad retaining pins (2 of)
8. remove clip
9. pads then come out
10. fit new pads and shims using copperslip on the back of pad and between shims
11. refit pad retaining pins
12 refit retaining wire
13refit clip (doesnt matter which way round)
14 place a poly bag over the brake fluid res and put cap ontop
15 push pistons back to allow a bigger gap between the pads to allow you to slide the caliper back over the disc
16 Refit nuts
17 Put wheel back on
18 remove poly bag
If you're not hindered then you're lokking at around 15-20mins aside.
Hope it helps.
Bob
If your just changing the pads it goes something like this.
1. Loosen wheel nuts
2. Jack car up (at correct point)
3. remove wheel
4. undo 2 caliper nuts on the strut (can be very tight...lube helps along with alot of leverage)
5. slide caliper away from disc
6. remove retaining wire from bck of caliper
7. remove pad retaining pins (2 of)
8. remove clip
9. pads then come out
10. fit new pads and shims using copperslip on the back of pad and between shims
11. refit pad retaining pins
12 refit retaining wire
13refit clip (doesnt matter which way round)
14 place a poly bag over the brake fluid res and put cap ontop
15 push pistons back to allow a bigger gap between the pads to allow you to slide the caliper back over the disc
16 Refit nuts
17 Put wheel back on
18 remove poly bag
If you're not hindered then you're lokking at around 15-20mins aside.
Hope it helps.
Bob
27 July 2004, 03:48 PM
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I've just ordered some redstuff ceramics today, and got this off their website...
"....Suitable for light to medium race applications, fast road use by heavier cars and track day use. Redstuff pads are manufactured from an advanced race material stable up to temperatures of 750 degC. EBC AF39 compound is designed for closed circuit competition use having a medium friction level ( m = 0.33). This carbon based material deposits a glaze or a coating on the brake disc upon which the pad operates. This means that some preparation or bedding of the disc when first installing to mate the pads will be necessary to bring the brake system up to maximum performance...."
When I asked what that actually meant, I was told they come with full instructions from EBC.
The 40MPH and 60MPH thing could just be to get the glaze on the discs.
I would have thought it would be sensible to allow 4-500 miles of bedding in on top of that? Im putting new discs on at the same time so I should hopefully not have to do much else to them.
J
"....Suitable for light to medium race applications, fast road use by heavier cars and track day use. Redstuff pads are manufactured from an advanced race material stable up to temperatures of 750 degC. EBC AF39 compound is designed for closed circuit competition use having a medium friction level ( m = 0.33). This carbon based material deposits a glaze or a coating on the brake disc upon which the pad operates. This means that some preparation or bedding of the disc when first installing to mate the pads will be necessary to bring the brake system up to maximum performance...."
When I asked what that actually meant, I was told they come with full instructions from EBC.
The 40MPH and 60MPH thing could just be to get the glaze on the discs.
I would have thought it would be sensible to allow 4-500 miles of bedding in on top of that? Im putting new discs on at the same time so I should hopefully not have to do much else to them.
J
27 July 2004, 04:20 PM
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The instructions with the pads just say the following:
After fitting new brake pads care must be taken when braking. Brake performance may be reduced during the bedding in period. Avoid emergency braking for the first 320km (200m) until the new pads are bedded in....
I have done 200 miles on mine yet, but since that was mainly motorway driving they are still not bedded in. I also put new EBC turbo grooved disks on at the same time.
Hope this helps.
After fitting new brake pads care must be taken when braking. Brake performance may be reduced during the bedding in period. Avoid emergency braking for the first 320km (200m) until the new pads are bedded in....
I have done 200 miles on mine yet, but since that was mainly motorway driving they are still not bedded in. I also put new EBC turbo grooved disks on at the same time.
Hope this helps.
27 July 2004, 07:34 PM
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OOPS!!!
Just found out I have ordered the "normal" Redstuff pads and not the ceramics... looks like I'll be waiting a couple more days to do the brakes then!! DOH!
J
Just found out I have ordered the "normal" Redstuff pads and not the ceramics... looks like I'll be waiting a couple more days to do the brakes then!! DOH!
J
27 July 2004, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sticky Stuff
Does anyone know of the legality of these pads?
Are they 100% road legal?
Are they 100% road legal?
An extract from their website:
"Redstuff Ceramic pad compound will blow your mind when used in anger on faster street cars such as Evo, Impreza, M3, Skyline and anything quick.
An ECE R90 approved pad, legal for street use yet capable of stopping you from regular 100mph plus runs without fade. The pads just keep getting better the more abuse you give them."
Looks like they are then!
27 July 2004, 08:54 PM
#21
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hmmmmmmmmmmmmm............................if they are ECE compliant thenthis means that at a maximium they can only be 15% better than the O.E. m,aterial (reg require +or- 15% max!!)
seen as say Ferodo ds2500 and most of the Pagid range perform way above this criteria (and can't be ECE90 approved) then it would stand to reason that this pad can not be as good as all the hype from a "friction" point of view!!
alyn - asperformance.com
seen as say Ferodo ds2500 and most of the Pagid range perform way above this criteria (and can't be ECE90 approved) then it would stand to reason that this pad can not be as good as all the hype from a "friction" point of view!!
alyn - asperformance.com
28 July 2004, 06:07 AM
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Fot the interested :I did this weekend 3 laps of the RIng (in one move of course), that's about 60 km's flat out ,with 330 AP/Wilwood brakes, drilled discs and EBC Ceramic red, no fade, no other problems...
Creepy
Creepy
29 July 2004, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Sticky Stuff
Cheers Speedydave, guess I should have read the destructions a bit better 
what is more important on a performance pad is the friction stays constant over the whole temperature range
some pads which may pass the test may not perform well at very high temperaturers
the ece 90 test is a test to check how a pad performs against the oe at certain speeds and temperaturers the highest speed is in fact 80mph
29 July 2004, 01:34 PM
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Well, got mine fitted last night, put new discs on aswell. So far so good, I really like them. As for them being a bit "woody" when cold, you shouldnt be needing to brake that hard when cold anyway! 10/10 so far!
J
J
29 July 2004, 09:31 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by A.BART
the ece 90 regulation of + or -15% on friction is only one critera of the pad performance
what is more important on a performance pad is the friction stays constant over the whole temperature range
some pads which may pass the test may not perform well at very high temperaturers
the ece 90 test is a test to check how a pad performs against the oe at certain speeds and temperaturers the highest speed is in fact 80mph
what is more important on a performance pad is the friction stays constant over the whole temperature range
some pads which may pass the test may not perform well at very high temperaturers
the ece 90 test is a test to check how a pad performs against the oe at certain speeds and temperaturers the highest speed is in fact 80mph
my point..........................but a pad that passes this test can't have a "constant friction" level and outperform higher friction pads at higher temps!!
sorry but i'll stick with more premium products such as the Pagid......
alyn - asperformance.com
30 July 2004, 02:18 PM
#28
Originally Posted by stockcar
my point..........................but a pad that passes this test can't have a "constant friction" level and outperform higher friction pads at higher temps!!
sorry but i'll stick with more premium products such as the Pagid......
alyn - asperformance.com
sorry but i'll stick with more premium products such as the Pagid......
alyn - asperformance.com
Bob
30 July 2004, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
EBC Ceramics has been tried any tested by scoobynetters with glowing reports. Thats good enough for me.
Bob
Bob
Like I said, good enough for John Felstead, who IIRC, tested them at nurburgring - without any fade... good enough for me!!
Premium Products???? Ceramic pads arent premium products?
OK then
Heres some info on the pads...
Friction co-efficient starting at 0.3µ and rising to 0.33µ once warm
Medium initial bite with friction steadily increasing with heat
Heat stable to an incredible 750ºC
Low disc abrasion
Think that says it all really!
Last edited by Jay_bee; 30 July 2004 at 02:38 PM.