Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

have done a search and taken note of whats what, but there are a couple of things that are unclear...

I'm putting on new discs and pads on the front and was hoping to fit braided brake lines at the same time too. Now I have a feeling the rear brakes need doing aswell (they look rusty on surface, like they havent been used in yrs). Does it make a difference if I fit the braided lines now or should I do it after the rears have been done too?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

I'd change all the brake lines in one go, that way you only have to bleed the system once. Usually when you take a pipe off you end up with air in the other lines aswell as it all runs out over the floor, do the job properly and renew the brake fluid at the same time, this is what I intend doing.

On some cars you have to bleed the back brakes through before you do the front, not sure about Scoobys tho.

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

so maybe change all brake lines? I'm assuming that when I just change rear discs and pads it wont need bleeding?

Miniman

iTrader: (2)

What's rusty? The pads should be constant contact with the disk and this tends to keep the contact area shiny on the disk. If the disk below the pad is rusty then maybe the pad isn't even making contact. Which would suggest a sticking piston in the caliper not worn pads.

But I've seen disks get a surface rust mark after a car is washed one day and left to dry over night, so it may be normal moisture build up.

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

I'd change them all in one go.
When you change the rear discs and pads you may have too much fluid in the system and have to syphon some off, but you shouldn't need to bleed the system again.

markwild

You'll find this useful - the last page of the Godspeed disk fitting instructions give 'bleeding' order... And there is a section on changing the rears...

Mark

PS _ I'll add :

Once the brake line is done (fronts), turn the wheel from lock to lock to ensure that it DOES NOT rub the wheel arch - one of mine was recently and it cut through the braid in a couple of weeks - fortunately I noticed and replaced it !

Also, don't be tempted to buy the 'pressurised' brake 'easy bleed' kit - the lids provided do not fit - only get this if you've time to source a lid - I went for the other eazibleed system - its a tube, with a one-way valve, that goes into a small white container - bleeding them was easy, with the assistance of a 'pedal-pushing friend'.....

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

Cheers guys. Am going to have my first attempt at changing brakes...fingers crossed.

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

The result:

Took me and a friend the weekend to do the job. Changed front brake pads, discs, brakelines, fluid and painted calipers. The job that really took ages was to paint the calipers properly. Took ages to dry and couldnt get the white subaru lettering stamped on properly so ended up re-painting. Left the calipers to dry overnight but still not 100% dry so ended up looking a little messy due to enevitably having grubby hands putting the calipers back on. Will just take the wheels off next week and give it another coat of paint.

Didnt change the rear brakeline as the brakeline nut refused to come off but presumably the main benefit of the braided lines is on the front.

As I have absolutely no prior experience I found massive difficulty finding jacking point....ended up doing some damage to the underside of the car (underseal and dented).

No idea how much a garage would charge to do the job but regardless would definatley do it all again. Very satisfying.

Scoobynet proved invaluable once again!


BOB

markwild

hmm - Jacking points - Tricky one... I've just made a wooden disc to fit inside the 'cup' part of my trolley jack - it can now jack up on the double skin that the scissor jack is supposed to use - I always put axle stands under the car once jacked up - at the front I use the rear-most suspension bolt - right near the back inner edge of the wheel arch....

Mark

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

In the end the best jacking points I found were the rear diff (for the rear) and on the front I jacked it under the black metal plate below the engine. Both work well as they lift off both wheels at the same time so its easy to get the axle stands in position.

markwild

Bob - You may be right - I though about using it(/those locations) last time (i.e. last weekend - be nice for a week to go by where my car isn't on a jack )

Mark