Fitting new pads
#1
I might need to fit some new pads before the next trackday and wont have time for somebody else to do it for me, as usual. They look pretty simple to change - but can somebody tell me what I should exactly do, as I saw the mechanic putting some sort of grease on last time and also doing something with the brake line/cylinder. (Yep, you guessed it, I have never done anything except change a wheel, before !!!)
#2
Not that difficult.
Take wheel off
Remove spring clip that passes through the 2 retaining pins
Tap out the two retaining pins TAKE CARE note which way up the pressure clip springy thing is in case it jumps out best to hold it to avoid probs
You should have taken the lid off the reservoir for the brake fluid when you compress the pistons into the caliper the reservoir may overflow best to put a cloth or something to catch spillage
Tap out or wiggle out the old pads... if you can compressing the pots will give some clearance. Take off the metal shims clean and transfer to the new pads.You can put a thin smear of Copper grease between the shim and the pad
Once the pads are out you need to get the pistons fully compressed into the caliper
There is a tool for this but I managed with just a bit of wood for leverage ( if four pots try to push them in in pairs )
Once there fully in push in the new pads and and the thin metal shims.
Align the pins with the holes in the back plate and thread through the springy pressure plate. Make sure it's the right way up!
Replace the spring clip in the wee holes in the retaining pins (best to work out alignment before you push them through)
That's the pads replaced repeat for the other side.
Check the reservoir chances are the brake fluid will be too high. If it is you will have to draw some out I had a syringe but I'm sure you could work out some way doing it
Replace the lid on the brake fluid reservoir
Pump the brake pedal a few times until it firms. Check fluid level
Job done.
Had to replace mine after Knockhill on Sat. Completely wore out nearly new Redstuff after first few hours
Hope this helps
[This message has been edited by Doogsy (edited 05 July 2001).]
Take wheel off
Remove spring clip that passes through the 2 retaining pins
Tap out the two retaining pins TAKE CARE note which way up the pressure clip springy thing is in case it jumps out best to hold it to avoid probs
You should have taken the lid off the reservoir for the brake fluid when you compress the pistons into the caliper the reservoir may overflow best to put a cloth or something to catch spillage
Tap out or wiggle out the old pads... if you can compressing the pots will give some clearance. Take off the metal shims clean and transfer to the new pads.You can put a thin smear of Copper grease between the shim and the pad
Once the pads are out you need to get the pistons fully compressed into the caliper
There is a tool for this but I managed with just a bit of wood for leverage ( if four pots try to push them in in pairs )
Once there fully in push in the new pads and and the thin metal shims.
Align the pins with the holes in the back plate and thread through the springy pressure plate. Make sure it's the right way up!
Replace the spring clip in the wee holes in the retaining pins (best to work out alignment before you push them through)
That's the pads replaced repeat for the other side.
Check the reservoir chances are the brake fluid will be too high. If it is you will have to draw some out I had a syringe but I'm sure you could work out some way doing it
Replace the lid on the brake fluid reservoir
Pump the brake pedal a few times until it firms. Check fluid level
Job done.
Had to replace mine after Knockhill on Sat. Completely wore out nearly new Redstuff after first few hours
Hope this helps
[This message has been edited by Doogsy (edited 05 July 2001).]
#3
Doogsy! Surely if you take the cap off the reservoir (and some spills out) you need to top up and bleed the brakes. I changes mine, simply needed to push the pistons back into the caliper, gently with a screw driver, to provide the clearance for the new pads.
Only took 40 minutes to do both wheels.
Paul
Only took 40 minutes to do both wheels.
Paul
#4
The last time I did it there was no spillage but when the brakes were primed the fluid was level with the top of the reservoir.
Only about 2-3ml of fluid to get back to max level.
Looked through a few sites online...seems to vary a lot on advice re bleeding or not. Some recommend taking fluid out first and bleeding down after. Some no mention of fluid at all.All say to loosen/remove reservoir cap
Suppose depends on how high fluid was with the old skinny pads.
If already high, compressing the pistons will push the fluid right up
I don't know what the definitive answer I'm just an amateur
[This message has been edited by Doogsy (edited 06 July 2001).]
Only about 2-3ml of fluid to get back to max level.
Looked through a few sites online...seems to vary a lot on advice re bleeding or not. Some recommend taking fluid out first and bleeding down after. Some no mention of fluid at all.All say to loosen/remove reservoir cap
Suppose depends on how high fluid was with the old skinny pads.
If already high, compressing the pistons will push the fluid right up
I don't know what the definitive answer I'm just an amateur
[This message has been edited by Doogsy (edited 06 July 2001).]
#5
Take care with brake fluid - it can damage paintwork. Make sure that you dont get any on the bodywork directly, off your hands or any rags you use.
Oh and bed them in gently for 250 miles or so.
Have fun
David
Oh and bed them in gently for 250 miles or so.
Have fun
David
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