STi 'R' 2 DOOR GEARING / WHEEL SIZE
30 June 2001, 01:17 PM
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DOES ANYONE KNOW IF FITTING 18" WHEELS (I BELIEVE 17" ARE STANDARD ON AN STI'R')TO AN 'R' 2 DR WOULD RAISE TOP GEAR RPM / MPH TO SIMILAR LEVEL AS 4 DR?
WHAT PROFILE AND WIDTH SHOULD BE USED TO ACCOMPLISH GEARING INBETWEEN THE 2 MODELS? I.E. C 20 MPH / 1000 RPM
PRESUMABLY THIS WOULD THEN GIVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS? - RETAIN MOST OF THE 'R' SPRINT RATIO EFFECT WHILST ALLOWING REASONABLE 95 MPH CRUISE RPM?
ANY EXPERIENCE OR SUGGESTIONS AROUND THIS REASONING WOULD BE WELCOME
RGDS
GRIFF 007
[This message has been edited by GRIFF007 (edited 30 June 2001).]
WHAT PROFILE AND WIDTH SHOULD BE USED TO ACCOMPLISH GEARING INBETWEEN THE 2 MODELS? I.E. C 20 MPH / 1000 RPM
PRESUMABLY THIS WOULD THEN GIVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS? - RETAIN MOST OF THE 'R' SPRINT RATIO EFFECT WHILST ALLOWING REASONABLE 95 MPH CRUISE RPM?
ANY EXPERIENCE OR SUGGESTIONS AROUND THIS REASONING WOULD BE WELCOME
RGDS
GRIFF 007
[This message has been edited by GRIFF007 (edited 30 June 2001).]
01 July 2001, 12:50 AM
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Using 16" wheels with a tyres aspect ratio off 50 series will be the same as using 17" wheels with 40 series tyres!!
Unfortunatley when using 17" rims it is not advised to use 50 series tyres.
So you havent got much of an option open
The only cars to use 17" as standard are the P1,STi7,RB5 and 2001 new shape models!!
Hope this helps
Darren
Unfortunatley when using 17" rims it is not advised to use 50 series tyres.
So you havent got much of an option open
The only cars to use 17" as standard are the P1,STi7,RB5 and 2001 new shape models!!
Hope this helps
Darren
01 July 2001, 11:45 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Deep Singh:
<B>Griff,16" wheels are standard on the Type R.[/quote]
Presumably 17" wheels with similar width and profile to 16" tyres would create higher gearing - anybody know how much higher?
<B>Griff,16" wheels are standard on the Type R.[/quote]
Presumably 17" wheels with similar width and profile to 16" tyres would create higher gearing - anybody know how much higher?
02 July 2001, 10:07 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by DARREN:
<B>Sorry as opposed to using 18" rims then the tyres would be having 30 or 35 series tyres!!
Darren[/quote]
thanks for reply - why cant 50 series be fitted to 17" ?
<B>Sorry as opposed to using 18" rims then the tyres would be having 30 or 35 series tyres!!
Darren[/quote]
thanks for reply - why cant 50 series be fitted to 17" ?
02 July 2001, 03:11 PM
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darren you missed out the 22B! 
Griff.
If you increase teh tyre diameter, then you have effectively geared the car higher, not only would it mean your speedo was wrongly calibrated, but the greater speed you achieve would come at the expense of acceleration, and there would be no best of both worlds, you would smiply get all the pros and cons of a lower final drive ratio.
Reason it is not possible (except maybe in 22B) is because there simply isnt enough room under the wheel arches for you to put bigger wheels and proportionately bigger tyres in. When the wheels lift over bumps they will grind away at the arches, damaging the car and the tyres and making a terrible noise.
It simply isnt worth it.
Not only that but the difference you will get is no where near the difference required to get it to behave like a normal sti. You would need the circumference to be 10% longer which is really pushing it.
Griff.
If you increase teh tyre diameter, then you have effectively geared the car higher, not only would it mean your speedo was wrongly calibrated, but the greater speed you achieve would come at the expense of acceleration, and there would be no best of both worlds, you would smiply get all the pros and cons of a lower final drive ratio.
Reason it is not possible (except maybe in 22B) is because there simply isnt enough room under the wheel arches for you to put bigger wheels and proportionately bigger tyres in. When the wheels lift over bumps they will grind away at the arches, damaging the car and the tyres and making a terrible noise.
It simply isnt worth it.
Not only that but the difference you will get is no where near the difference required to get it to behave like a normal sti. You would need the circumference to be 10% longer which is really pushing it.
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03 July 2001, 08:39 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Adam M:
<B>darren you missed out the 22B!
Griff.
If you increase teh tyre diameter, then you have effectively geared the car higher, not only would it mean your speedo was wrongly calibrated, but the greater speed you achieve would come at the expense of acceleration, and there would be no best of both worlds, you would smiply get all the pros and cons of a lower final drive ratio.
Reason it is not possible (except maybe in 22B) is because there simply isnt enough room under the wheel arches for you to put bigger wheels and proportionately bigger tyres in. When the wheels lift over bumps they will grind away at the arches, damaging the car and the tyres and making a terrible noise.
It simply isnt worth it.
Not only that but the difference you will get is no where near the difference required to get it to behave like a normal sti. You would need the circumference to be 10% longer which is really pushing it.[/quote]
Thanks for info - it makes the decision between an R and a 4 dr even more difficult!
<B>darren you missed out the 22B!
Griff.
If you increase teh tyre diameter, then you have effectively geared the car higher, not only would it mean your speedo was wrongly calibrated, but the greater speed you achieve would come at the expense of acceleration, and there would be no best of both worlds, you would smiply get all the pros and cons of a lower final drive ratio.
Reason it is not possible (except maybe in 22B) is because there simply isnt enough room under the wheel arches for you to put bigger wheels and proportionately bigger tyres in. When the wheels lift over bumps they will grind away at the arches, damaging the car and the tyres and making a terrible noise.
It simply isnt worth it.
Not only that but the difference you will get is no where near the difference required to get it to behave like a normal sti. You would need the circumference to be 10% longer which is really pushing it.[/quote]
Thanks for info - it makes the decision between an R and a 4 dr even more difficult!
03 July 2001, 02:28 PM
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didnt realise you were choosing.
main differences are 2 door has more rigid shell, less squeaks etc.
Shorter gearing isnt that much shorter, but is entirely controlled by gearbox, not by diffs, so changing gearbox to an sti one for about £7 to £800 will give you that back. Final drive is still 4.44. You could always get a uk gearbox and have a final drive of 3.9. 180+ mph anyone (aerodynamics wouldn't let you get there!)
two doors, dont have abs, unless they are a P1 which isnt worth the premium over an sti 5 type r at more than double the price.
I believe four doors handle better, but it is subjective, and I am not a good enough driver to exploit the pros and cons of either. I will need more tuition for that.
Out of the box anyway,I believe the four door is safer.
2 door is rarer, but I believe it is not as good looking.
main differences are 2 door has more rigid shell, less squeaks etc.
Shorter gearing isnt that much shorter, but is entirely controlled by gearbox, not by diffs, so changing gearbox to an sti one for about £7 to £800 will give you that back. Final drive is still 4.44. You could always get a uk gearbox and have a final drive of 3.9. 180+ mph anyone (aerodynamics wouldn't let you get there!)
two doors, dont have abs, unless they are a P1 which isnt worth the premium over an sti 5 type r at more than double the price.
I believe four doors handle better, but it is subjective, and I am not a good enough driver to exploit the pros and cons of either. I will need more tuition for that.
Out of the box anyway,I believe the four door is safer.
2 door is rarer, but I believe it is not as good looking.
03 July 2001, 04:22 PM
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Hi,
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god!
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god!
03 July 2001, 04:45 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by WRXStiTypeR:
<B>Hi,
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god![/quote]
Thanks guys for all the advice, you are a good bunch!
By the way - how do you reply to someone on the thread publically without using the reply with quote option??!!
<B>Hi,
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god![/quote]
Thanks guys for all the advice, you are a good bunch!
By the way - how do you reply to someone on the thread publically without using the reply with quote option??!!
03 July 2001, 04:47 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Adam M:
<B>didnt realise you were choosing.
main differences are 2 door has more rigid shell, less squeaks etc.
Shorter gearing isnt that much shorter, but is entirely controlled by gearbox, not by diffs, so changing gearbox to an sti one for about £7 to £800 will give you that back. Final drive is still 4.44. You could always get a uk gearbox and have a final drive of 3.9. 180+ mph anyone (aerodynamics wouldn't let you get there!)
two doors, dont have abs, unless they are a P1 which isnt worth the premium over an sti 5 type r at more than double the price.
I believe four doors handle better, but it is subjective, and I am not a good enough driver to exploit the pros and cons of either. I will need more tuition for that.
Out of the box anyway,I believe the four door is safer.
2 door is rarer, but I believe it is not as good looking.
[/quote]
HMMMM wonder if the new 6 speed could be fitted? - can you get a new sti 4 dr box for £800, I though I had seen £1500 repair bills for one...
<B>didnt realise you were choosing.
main differences are 2 door has more rigid shell, less squeaks etc.
Shorter gearing isnt that much shorter, but is entirely controlled by gearbox, not by diffs, so changing gearbox to an sti one for about £7 to £800 will give you that back. Final drive is still 4.44. You could always get a uk gearbox and have a final drive of 3.9. 180+ mph anyone (aerodynamics wouldn't let you get there!)
two doors, dont have abs, unless they are a P1 which isnt worth the premium over an sti 5 type r at more than double the price.
I believe four doors handle better, but it is subjective, and I am not a good enough driver to exploit the pros and cons of either. I will need more tuition for that.
Out of the box anyway,I believe the four door is safer.
2 door is rarer, but I believe it is not as good looking.
[/quote]
HMMMM wonder if the new 6 speed could be fitted? - can you get a new sti 4 dr box for £800, I though I had seen £1500 repair bills for one...
03 July 2001, 04:49 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by WRXStiTypeR:
<B>Hi,
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god![/quote]
I have to say that I would want to change the rear black windows - any idea what that would cost?!
<B>Hi,
Get the Type R! I drive mine every day, and it's not too bad on petrol. Only thing is a fairly heavy clutch, but the center diff control is definately worth having for those days when its been raining hard, or snowing.
Having said that lack of ABS meant that I went skidding into the kerb in winter when it was snowing! My own fault really I went into panic mode and couldn't lift my foot off the brake, only scuffed one rim thank god![/quote]
I have to say that I would want to change the rear black windows - any idea what that would cost?!
04 July 2001, 11:19 AM
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fair enough deep.
See what you are saying, just think rear quarter panel is too long.
It needs something to brake up the straight line, like a big gaping flared wheel arch!
four door is definitely the more forgiving.
The 22B has much more outright grip, but I am more afraid to approach the edge in it than I was in my wrx. Has made me a better driver though.
I have already had about £700 worth of work done on my gearbox. but you can buy an jap four door gearbox for around £700 in working condition.
Darkened rear windows are not filmed, the glass is that colour.
I wanted to change mine at first but decided it was better left original. Only way to change it is to fit new glass that isnt tinted. Only two door with normal (green tint) glass is the P1. if you have glass cover on your insurance, you can have this fitted without your older stuff being smashed. Just say it is chipped, go to atoglass with your cover note and they do the rest. they will have to order it though.
I was also not keen cos the P1 has a thick black line around the outer edge of the glass which makes the rear window appear shorter than the front windows and spoils the lines.
your choice.
If you want to reply with out quoting, click on the reply icn, either at teh top or bottom of the thread next to the post new topic icon.
See what you are saying, just think rear quarter panel is too long.
It needs something to brake up the straight line, like a big gaping flared wheel arch!
four door is definitely the more forgiving.
The 22B has much more outright grip, but I am more afraid to approach the edge in it than I was in my wrx. Has made me a better driver though.
I have already had about £700 worth of work done on my gearbox. but you can buy an jap four door gearbox for around £700 in working condition.
Darkened rear windows are not filmed, the glass is that colour.
I wanted to change mine at first but decided it was better left original. Only way to change it is to fit new glass that isnt tinted. Only two door with normal (green tint) glass is the P1. if you have glass cover on your insurance, you can have this fitted without your older stuff being smashed. Just say it is chipped, go to atoglass with your cover note and they do the rest. they will have to order it though.
I was also not keen cos the P1 has a thick black line around the outer edge of the glass which makes the rear window appear shorter than the front windows and spoils the lines.
your choice.
If you want to reply with out quoting, click on the reply icn, either at teh top or bottom of the thread next to the post new topic icon.
04 July 2001, 01:03 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Adam M:
<B>fair enough deep.
See what you are saying, just think rear quarter panel is too long.
It needs something to brake up the straight line, like a big gaping flared wheel arch!
four door is definitely the more forgiving.
The 22B has much more outright grip, but I am more afraid to approach the edge in it than I was in my wrx. Has made me a better driver though.
I have already had about £700 worth of work done on my gearbox. but you can buy an jap four door gearbox for around £700 in working condition.
Darkened rear windows are not filmed, the glass is that colour.
I wanted to change mine at first but decided it was better left original. Only way to change it is to fit new glass that isnt tinted. Only two door with normal (green tint) glass is the P1. if you have glass cover on your insurance, you can have this fitted without your older stuff being smashed. Just say it is chipped, go to atoglass with your cover note and they do the rest. they will have to order it though.
I was also not keen cos the P1 has a thick black line around the outer edge of the glass which makes the rear window appear shorter than the front windows and spoils the lines.
your choice.
If you want to reply with out quoting, click on the reply icn, either at teh top or bottom of the thread next to the post new topic icon.
[/quote]
Thanks for all the help chaps - still cant find a reply WITHOUT quote option! - is it called 'logged'?
<B>fair enough deep.
See what you are saying, just think rear quarter panel is too long.
It needs something to brake up the straight line, like a big gaping flared wheel arch!
four door is definitely the more forgiving.
The 22B has much more outright grip, but I am more afraid to approach the edge in it than I was in my wrx. Has made me a better driver though.
I have already had about £700 worth of work done on my gearbox. but you can buy an jap four door gearbox for around £700 in working condition.
Darkened rear windows are not filmed, the glass is that colour.
I wanted to change mine at first but decided it was better left original. Only way to change it is to fit new glass that isnt tinted. Only two door with normal (green tint) glass is the P1. if you have glass cover on your insurance, you can have this fitted without your older stuff being smashed. Just say it is chipped, go to atoglass with your cover note and they do the rest. they will have to order it though.
I was also not keen cos the P1 has a thick black line around the outer edge of the glass which makes the rear window appear shorter than the front windows and spoils the lines.
your choice.
If you want to reply with out quoting, click on the reply icn, either at teh top or bottom of the thread next to the post new topic icon.
[/quote]
Thanks for all the help chaps - still cant find a reply WITHOUT quote option! - is it called 'logged'?
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