Advice needed on 1st time brake change
#1
Hi
The big service is due on MY96 UK and to save a bit of money I want to change the pads and maybe the discs on my motor myself. I used to do them on my other cars, but then they had the Haynes Manual to go by.
Is it an easy job and does anyone have a link to the procedure?
Cheers
PP
The big service is due on MY96 UK and to save a bit of money I want to change the pads and maybe the discs on my motor myself. I used to do them on my other cars, but then they had the Haynes Manual to go by.
Is it an easy job and does anyone have a link to the procedure?
Cheers
PP
#5
OK next one
I've had Green Stuff pads on the majority of my fast road cars, anyone had any experiance of them on the Scoob? If so best place to get them (i.e cheapest)
Thanks again for the advice above
PP
I've had Green Stuff pads on the majority of my fast road cars, anyone had any experiance of them on the Scoob? If so best place to get them (i.e cheapest)
Thanks again for the advice above
PP
#6
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Dyney - I was only hitting the wheel.... It had got itself quite firmly attached to the disc, and I was using the smallest (sledge) hammer I could find to help it along...
I was told that the car was securely jacked up...
I was told that the car was securely jacked up...
#7
Scooby Regular
I, along with most of the people on here don't think much of the EBC greens. EBC recommend Reds for a Scoob, but I'd go with either Ferodo ds2500's or something from Mintex or Pagid
Dave,
How did I know
Dave,
How did I know
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#9
Scooby Regular
2 pot instructions:
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
Undo the lower bolt holding the calliper on and remove the bolt.
Now undo the top bolt a few turns so you can swing the calliper up.
This should leave the pads on the disk.
Remove the pads!
Push the pistons back with a G clamp (It's easier for 2 pots than the 4's)
Take off the Calliper carrier bracket (2 bolts right round the back that will be fukcing tight!!)
Once the calliper and carrier are off the disk should just fall off (if not give it a tap)
Remove all the $hit on the mounting face of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to stop the disk seizing on.
Clean the new disk with brake cleaner and on it goes!
Put the carrier back on followed by the calliper and top bolt.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck un the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads. Once fitted push the calliper over the top.
Replace the lower bolt and tighten both down.
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please seek professional help)
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!
I knocked these instructions up from memory so there may be a few mistakes. If you attempt this please and it all goes wrong don't blame me
[Edited by Dyney - 2/9/2003 2:00:55 AM]
Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!
Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!
I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).
Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).
Take the wheel off.
Undo the lower bolt holding the calliper on and remove the bolt.
Now undo the top bolt a few turns so you can swing the calliper up.
This should leave the pads on the disk.
Remove the pads!
Push the pistons back with a G clamp (It's easier for 2 pots than the 4's)
Take off the Calliper carrier bracket (2 bolts right round the back that will be fukcing tight!!)
Once the calliper and carrier are off the disk should just fall off (if not give it a tap)
Remove all the $hit on the mounting face of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to stop the disk seizing on.
Clean the new disk with brake cleaner and on it goes!
Put the carrier back on followed by the calliper and top bolt.
Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck un the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads. Once fitted push the calliper over the top.
Replace the lower bolt and tighten both down.
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gentle drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please seek professional help)
It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!
I knocked these instructions up from memory so there may be a few mistakes. If you attempt this please and it all goes wrong don't blame me
[Edited by Dyney - 2/9/2003 2:00:55 AM]
#10
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Please use something more substantial than the OEM jack to do this. (Like at least one axle stand!!)
Cars that fall off jacks don't look pretty. (No, it wasn't mine, and luckily the owner wasn't under the thing at the time...)
Other than that, this is an easy job. Have fun
<Scoobynet's health and safety rep. >
[Edited by dnb - 2/8/2003 11:55:03 AM]
Cars that fall off jacks don't look pretty. (No, it wasn't mine, and luckily the owner wasn't under the thing at the time...)
Other than that, this is an easy job. Have fun
<Scoobynet's health and safety rep. >
[Edited by dnb - 2/8/2003 11:55:03 AM]
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