Big_Snapper

How much bedding in do theses pads need? on new discs.
Have done around 110 miles now, some quickish miles but used them yesterday and they faded quite badly from high speed in a matter of a couple of miles on a down hill moorland section, so I eased off to cool them down. Do they just need more beeding in in or is this as good as they get?
K.

ScoobyJawa

Bedding in (from what I remember trouser telling me)

Fit them. Then drive down the road at 20-30mph with the brakes lightly applied for 30 secs, then off for 30 secs, on again, then off again.

Then now they have a bit of heat in them do a stop from 30-10, then 40-20, then 50-30.
Next do a stop from 50-10, 60-10 and 70-10. Job done. Then drive around carefully for a couple of weeks or 500 miles or so - then fully bedded in

I followed this and had no probs at all!!

Trumble

Scooby_Jawa - Any idea how long they last under "normal" use - I want them and the discs to last at lest 1 year 15k miles.

T.

ChrisB

I've put over 10k miles on TSL discs + DS2500 since February

Still as good as ever.

cwal1

Remember that when you're bedding in yoou are really trying to transfer pad material to the disk. You want to build up the heat in the system progressively by braking at about 80%, maybe twice from 30 - 10, twice from 50 - 10, same from 80 - 10 and again from 100+ to 10. You will be able to feel the difference in the pedal application once they are correctly bedded in.

How long they will last will depend on your driving style, my last 2 sets of DS2003 and DS2500 pads have lasted 7000 miles each with the disks lasting 14000 miles.

Chris.

Claudius

Hi K

unfortunately, you havent picked the best pads for hard back road or track use. If you've done over 100 miles and they're still not good, they wont get better...

I would suggest you try brake pads with a higher friction coefficient. I can personally only recommend Pagid RS14 (the black ones), heard good stuff about the Ferodo DS3000+, but appearently they will shàg your wheels, so try the organic based Pagid RS14.

Forget EBC and Mintex, they're really cr@p! Ridiculous friction coef, worse than standard pads!

ChrisB

Interesting comments.

I fadded my std 4 pots with std pads and discs too many times in Scotland last November. Hence going for the DS2500 and TSL discs.

Out in Spain for the Rally Catalunya, we had several long x-country runs. Multiple stops from 120/130 down to maybe 60/70 (or slower) and each time the stopping was spot on.

cwal1

Advice from the people at TSL and my own experience is that if you run through the bedding in process properly, even though you've already run 110 miles without bedding in correctly, the brakes will work as intended. If I have to use the car in and around town for any extended period I would normally run through the bedding in process prior to going for a hard blast, the brakes then bit hard and progressively.

Have a look here http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm for an explanation

As for choosing the incorrect pad for fast back roads - exactly the opposite in my opinion and experience. I’m sure that once they’re bedded in properly you’ll be happy enough.

Chris.

[Edited by cwal1 - 7/19/2002 2:50:04 PM]

Claudius

While the DS 2500 are not that good and will fade relatively quickly, it COULD BE that you experienced green fade, given the pads were relatively new. While I doubt it, it might still be of interest.

Green Fade
This is perhaps the most dangerous type of fade that has injured more race car drivers than any other type of brake incident.

Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. These are thermosetting plastic resins with a high heat resistance. On a new brake pad, these resins will out-gas or cure when used hard on their first few heat cycles. The new pad can hydroplane on this layer of excreted gas. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car’s characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor.

Some teams have a new pads warning sign that they place on the steering wheel to inform the drive to be careful on his first few laps.

Green fade can occur if you change the pads and drive on the street for a few hundred or even thousand miles, never braking hard, then suddenly start using the brakes hard.

Green fade can be prevented by bedding the pads. This is a simple procedure to boil off the resins and break in the pads under controlled conditions.

johnfelstead

DS2500 require bedding by doing 20, 4 second, 50% race speed brake aplications, then let them cool fully. You need to get the disks hot enough to turn AP racing low temp range heat paint white.

Caronte

city traffic conditions are perfect for bedding in . no prolonged braking times and low speeds. That's all.