How do you take off the wheels
#1
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OK - this is a really dumb question - but please humour me !
I want to be able to remove the wheels when I like
What tool do I need (Halfords?) & when I put the wheels back on - how do I know I have done the nuts up tight enough.
Sorry for the stupid question !
Ro.
I want to be able to remove the wheels when I like
What tool do I need (Halfords?) & when I put the wheels back on - how do I know I have done the nuts up tight enough.
Sorry for the stupid question !
Ro.
#2
If you don't mind spending a bit of cash get a torque wrench. This will give you good leverage to get the nuts off and make sure you don't over tighten them when they go back on. Not sure exactly the torque required somewhere around 80Nm? (Best to check. Someone on here probably knows). You will need a 19mm socket.
Sometimes the wheels will stick to the hubs and you may need to give them a knock with your palm, top and bottom, to free them. If you clean the surfaces before putting them back on it will make it easier next time.
When refitting tighten bolts opposite each other (not next to each other) this ensures that the wheel goes on flush. Tighten each nut an equal amount until they are fairly tight then let the car down off the jack and tighten all the way.
If you plan on having the wheels off for a long time axel stands would also be a good idea.
Sometimes the wheels will stick to the hubs and you may need to give them a knock with your palm, top and bottom, to free them. If you clean the surfaces before putting them back on it will make it easier next time.
When refitting tighten bolts opposite each other (not next to each other) this ensures that the wheel goes on flush. Tighten each nut an equal amount until they are fairly tight then let the car down off the jack and tighten all the way.
If you plan on having the wheels off for a long time axel stands would also be a good idea.
#4
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Good advice above. Torque them up to 70lbs/ft max and a £40 Halfords torque wrench is fine.
If you're going to make a habit of this (track days etc ) then Halfords do a nice extendable wrench to loosen the nuts off - handy for smacking carjackers with, too! - and get yourself a hydraulic jack and axle stands while you're there. Only about £30 I think.
Final word of warning. If your wheels have been on for a while they can get seriously stuck/corroded on. But if all the nuts are removed, they WILL come off. If they are stubborn and you're using the standard car scissor jack, get some bricks or something underneath as the car will wobble and those scissor jacks are none too stable
Good luck,
Richard.
If you're going to make a habit of this (track days etc ) then Halfords do a nice extendable wrench to loosen the nuts off - handy for smacking carjackers with, too! - and get yourself a hydraulic jack and axle stands while you're there. Only about £30 I think.
Final word of warning. If your wheels have been on for a while they can get seriously stuck/corroded on. But if all the nuts are removed, they WILL come off. If they are stubborn and you're using the standard car scissor jack, get some bricks or something underneath as the car will wobble and those scissor jacks are none too stable
Good luck,
Richard.
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Ro, torque is a measure of twisting force, as in the power of an engine, or how tight you do up nuts/bolts etc. It's expressed as lbs/ft (pounds per foot) or Nm (Newton/Metres) or whatever.
Lbs/ft is most commonly used even in these metricated times. 70 lbs/ft is simply the twisting force exerted by attaching a 70lbs weight to the end of a horizontal bar one foot long. Get the picture?
The Halford's Professional wrench I have has a scale running from 30-150 lbs/ft. Set it to 70 lbs/ft (90 Nm) and tighten the wheel nuts until the wrench just clicks - no more! Job done. After use it's best to wind the wrench back down to its minimum setting so as not to tension the spring, thus maintaining consistent accuracy.
Give it a whirl and you'll understand what's going on.
Best regards,
Richard.
PS You'll also need a short socket extension to get at the wheel nuts more easily. Only a few quid - just ask the sales assistant.
Lbs/ft is most commonly used even in these metricated times. 70 lbs/ft is simply the twisting force exerted by attaching a 70lbs weight to the end of a horizontal bar one foot long. Get the picture?
The Halford's Professional wrench I have has a scale running from 30-150 lbs/ft. Set it to 70 lbs/ft (90 Nm) and tighten the wheel nuts until the wrench just clicks - no more! Job done. After use it's best to wind the wrench back down to its minimum setting so as not to tension the spring, thus maintaining consistent accuracy.
Give it a whirl and you'll understand what's going on.
Best regards,
Richard.
PS You'll also need a short socket extension to get at the wheel nuts more easily. Only a few quid - just ask the sales assistant.
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#8
If you're going to be taking them on and off regularly, get a small tube of copper slip, smear a small amount of it on the threads of the studs.
This will keep the threads corrosion free and reduce the risk of damaging the studs (they can be a bit delicate).
Mike.
This will keep the threads corrosion free and reduce the risk of damaging the studs (they can be a bit delicate).
Mike.
#9
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For trackdays, where I expect to change them regularly, I bought an adaptor (£3.50) that allows me to use a 19mm socket with my battery operated black & decker. Just loosen them off with a torque wrench and then use the drill to take them off. Soooo much quicker.
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