Couple of simple mods
#1
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Couple of simple mods
After Fridays drive i have decided that i really need a set of mudflaps. Where is the best place to get them and will i have to start drilling holes in the car?? Also will my car just have a normal filter, and if yes whats the best upgrade and what will it offer?
#2
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Scott Lowe flaps CLICKY 1 CLICKY 2 are well regarded and a reasonably priced option (if there is such a thing as reasonably priced flaps for Scoobs ), I also like the look of the Scoobyclinic carbon ones
As for the filter, Green, JR Racing or K&N will all do the job. You might also want to look into removing the resonator and sealing off the air supply from the engine bay so it only takes nice, cold, clean air from the O/S wing enclosure, along with opening up a decent way of getting more air in there (but don't duct directly ).
If you haven't done it, the best and most cost effective mod to any Scooby is the rear ARB and its droplinks. Budget £150 all in and DIY in about 1 hour
As for the filter, Green, JR Racing or K&N will all do the job. You might also want to look into removing the resonator and sealing off the air supply from the engine bay so it only takes nice, cold, clean air from the O/S wing enclosure, along with opening up a decent way of getting more air in there (but don't duct directly ).
If you haven't done it, the best and most cost effective mod to any Scooby is the rear ARB and its droplinks. Budget £150 all in and DIY in about 1 hour
Last edited by corradoboy; 31 December 2006 at 12:55 PM.
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Thanks for that Corradoboy but apart from the bit regarding the mudflaps i did not understand a bit of the other two sections. I am sure when i had my RS1800 that i just removed the filter box and fitted a K&N cone on the end. Does it actually offer anything and whats a resonator.
#4
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Cones and Induction Kits don't fair too well with Scoobs, or many other turbo cars. Under-bonnet temperatures mean the induced air is so hot that you will probably reduce power, and the vibration caused by I/K's has long been attributed to early MAF failure
The OE filter housing draws air in via a hole in the O/S wing through a large plastic contraption called "the intake resonator". It is there solely to quieten down the running of the car as Mr Ordinary doesn't like whooshing and ptooshing noises. The air enters the res in two ways. On classics there is just a plastic tube visible just behind the O/S headlight, where it sucks in warm, dirty engine bay air. On new-age cars this same tube is attached to the "ram-air scoop", although what air it rams is a bit of a mystery, with its intake sitting at the front of the engine bay directly behind three rubber seals, the only air it can scavenge is what sneaks up past the hot radiator. On my 03 WRX I removed the scoop and res, and then made a seal around the filter housing so air from the engine bay could not be drawn in. I then opened up the trim vents around the foglight to allow air into the O/S wing enclosure. This resulted in slightly earlier spool-up, cooler running, audible induction and audible DV (even though it was still the OE recirc valve, which retained the smooth running of the car).
This diagram is always useful....
...and these are the scoop and resonator after removal....
....the engine bay after removal....
The OE filter housing draws air in via a hole in the O/S wing through a large plastic contraption called "the intake resonator". It is there solely to quieten down the running of the car as Mr Ordinary doesn't like whooshing and ptooshing noises. The air enters the res in two ways. On classics there is just a plastic tube visible just behind the O/S headlight, where it sucks in warm, dirty engine bay air. On new-age cars this same tube is attached to the "ram-air scoop", although what air it rams is a bit of a mystery, with its intake sitting at the front of the engine bay directly behind three rubber seals, the only air it can scavenge is what sneaks up past the hot radiator. On my 03 WRX I removed the scoop and res, and then made a seal around the filter housing so air from the engine bay could not be drawn in. I then opened up the trim vents around the foglight to allow air into the O/S wing enclosure. This resulted in slightly earlier spool-up, cooler running, audible induction and audible DV (even though it was still the OE recirc valve, which retained the smooth running of the car).
This diagram is always useful....
...and these are the scoop and resonator after removal....
....the engine bay after removal....
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Originally Posted by cw42
No wonder your car was slow Dave, you seem to have had a plantpot in the engine bay! Did Al C titmarsh put it there?
#7
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Chris, plants take in CO2 and release O2, and any extra air is always worth having
Part 2, as I forgot you didn't understand the other bit. Scoobs understeer, but there are ways to minimise it and the easiest first step is by reducing rear end body roll by fitting a stiffer rear anti-roll bar (ARB). As the back end rolls less during cornering, so the front tyres retain a better alignment with the road surface, increasing their available grip. The most popular aftermarket ARB is the Whiteline 22mm adjustable, giving 3 levels of torsional stiffness. Most fit it on the middle and never adjust it after, but as it only takes 5 minutes to switch between, have a play and see which suits your driving style best. I preferred the stiffest setting and wish I'd gone for a 24mm bar instead.
The droplinks which connect the ARB to the rear hub assembly are made of plastic and can flex, minimising the effect of any ARB fitted. They have also even been known to snap under load. Steel replacements can be had for about £30, or no better but much prettier alloy ones for £60 or so.
Part 2, as I forgot you didn't understand the other bit. Scoobs understeer, but there are ways to minimise it and the easiest first step is by reducing rear end body roll by fitting a stiffer rear anti-roll bar (ARB). As the back end rolls less during cornering, so the front tyres retain a better alignment with the road surface, increasing their available grip. The most popular aftermarket ARB is the Whiteline 22mm adjustable, giving 3 levels of torsional stiffness. Most fit it on the middle and never adjust it after, but as it only takes 5 minutes to switch between, have a play and see which suits your driving style best. I preferred the stiffest setting and wish I'd gone for a 24mm bar instead.
The droplinks which connect the ARB to the rear hub assembly are made of plastic and can flex, minimising the effect of any ARB fitted. They have also even been known to snap under load. Steel replacements can be had for about £30, or no better but much prettier alloy ones for £60 or so.
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#8
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Done the resonator removal lark...
Lots of sucky-blowy noises if it's cold outside....
BUT air filter really cacked up after Blyton....
Can't say that the car is any quicker..... ( two lead feet )
Lots of sucky-blowy noises if it's cold outside....
BUT air filter really cacked up after Blyton....
Can't say that the car is any quicker..... ( two lead feet )
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