Taffy223

Hi Guys

My engine check light came on earlier today on my 2002 bugeye and I was wondering if anyone in the bridgend area had a code reader and could help me diagnose the issue.

I disconnected battery to try and reset it but to no avail.

Any help would be appreciated

Cheers
Taffy


Edited to add

Not sure if contributing factors but

I changed the oil(mobil 1) and filter(subaru) one week ago
And as my car is completely standard appart from a loudish exhaust I've only ever used regular fuel but today ended up using premium as that was all they had.
I've had the car for 4 months now and it's been running like a clock , tiny knock on the front end so tommorow I'm replacing the front drop links and this engine light has worried me a bit

muttley1927

iTrader: (1)

It might sound like a daft question but have you checked fluid levels to make sure their ok.and also any wires that may of popped off ?

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

You need to disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 hour or more. As Muttley said check all the connections around the areas where you did the maintainence.

You should be OK using normal unleaded but the engine may have picked it up and the CEL is on.

Sadly, you cannot manually read the codes

Rally fan 555

iTrader: (7)

Thought you could'nt reset a Newage with a battery disconnect ?? doesn't it have to be computer reset via a laptop or similar ??

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

I can read your cars fault memory and reset the ecu for you, I could possibly do something tomorrow night or after work next week.

Taffy223

Thanks for the response guys.

I have checked all fluids as I do regularly, and yes i've checked all visible connectors.

As for the reset...I only disconnected the battery for 10mins so there may be an issue I need to consider.

Cannon fodder
You sir are a hero and I'd love to take you up on the offer. I'll change my drop links in the morning....well as it's sunday the morning could be mid day and i'll pm you my phone number and I'm available anytime after that and any evening next week.

You guys are awesome

Cheers
Kieran

mervil

iTrader: (5)

Sometimes if you hit fuel cut with less than a quarter tank of fuel it can bring it on!

To reset the light if you're sure nothing is wrong, key in the ignition, turn until the dash lights come (fuel pump will prime) on then off again and repeat ten times, after the tenth one, start te car and it should be gone!!

Taffy223

Interesting point Mate
I had run it lower than normal, so it's a possibility. I'll try that. thanks.
Cheers
Taffy

Taffy223

Drop links replaced...knock gone....one happy camper

Taffy223

Cannon Fodder
Awesome guy, thanks for your time and help. I'm in your debt.
Car running fine and fault sorted.

By the way, my wife gave me an ear bashing for not inviting you in for coffee.
If we bump into you up at the scooby meets I'll see you right.

Thanks again
Cheers
Kieran

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

What was the fault?

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

There was a stored fault - which was a misfire on cylinder 1 which only occured once, I cleared the fault memory and then reset the ECU.

We then went out on a road test, I was monitoring in real time for faults but none occured, checked for further live events logged and no further problems.

When we parked up I checked the min/max parameter settings again and nothing was outside the allowed parameters.

This Deltadash program is a really good piece of kit and it is amazing what you can monitor with it down to little things like MAF voltages.

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

No problem, just a thought when you changed the oil did you 'dry' crank the engine? It is probably not related (until I am told different), I know there is a lot of debate about leaving or disconnecting the crank sensor and then 'dry' cranking the engine but having read up on the matter it does make a lot of sense.

See you at the next meet and you can buy me a Pepsi Max.

Taffy223

I have a read a lot about the "dry crank" method and can see the advantages but decided against it in case it caused a fault.....need'nt have worried about that.

I'm just glad we did not find anything I needed to warry about.
As for the fuel...I think I'd better not change now...just in case

Cheers
Taffy

mervil

iTrader: (5)

Didn't you do a Road Dyno Ty?

Glad it wasn't anything major!

mervil

iTrader: (5)

Didn't you do a Road Dyno Ty?

Glad it wasn't anything major!

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

No time I'm afraid Merv, when we'd finished I had to go back to work on a callout.

I haven't road dyno'd my own car yet and I'd like to practice on my own before I start doing other members cars.

mervil

iTrader: (5)

I'll sit in the passenger with the laptop if you need a volunteer

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

Next meet it is then.

Rally fan 555

iTrader: (7)

Any good for Auto's Ty ? or is it like Bob's equipment

ryan33hks

iTrader: (2)

I want to play aswell

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

Well it is the same road dyno system that Bob uses I believe - Deltadash, just ask Bob when you have yours mapped which gear he would use.

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

No problem Ryan, nice photo I got sent by Jarvis yesterday...

Rally fan 555

iTrader: (7)

I'll have to ask him Ty - if you remember I'm sure he said he could'nt "do" an Auto with the DD system ????

Cannon Fodder

iTrader: (100)

I don't know then unless you can use the manual selection but then your gear ratios are all different to a manual box but I think you can input custom ratios if you know what they are.

Rally fan 555

iTrader: (7)

My Jap is Crap but do these sound right 1st - 2.785, 2nd - 1.545, 3rd - 1.000 and last but not least, 4th - 0.694 - last in the table of ratio's - REV = 2.272
and final reduction of 4.444

DYL 4N

Sounds good to me Si. Your jap ain't that bad after.